forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: s.e.charles on September 26, 2023, 07:09:15 PM
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watching a YT video, there was mention of using "photo etch burnishing fluid" rather than metal primer (i assume something like Mr Hobby Amazon.com: Mr. Hobby Mr. Metal Primer 40ml. Bottle Gundam : Arts, Crafts & Sewing).
https://youtu.be/bbp_97jBeFc?si=l-pah9r0TfyyFAVG
Q: do i want "metal tracks burnishing fluid" Amazon.com: Metallic Tracks Burnishing Fluid : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
or would i be better off with "photo etch burnishing fluid" Amazon.com: Photo-Etch Burnishing Fluid : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
or are they the same thing?
thanks
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Sorry I can’t help you with your original question. I have recently started using Mr. Metal Primer, what was the reason you decided to change to burnishing fluid?
Thanks,
Tim
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the YT producer indicated that it would etch the brass. that implies texture to me. and it was a the reason which provoked my question.
also, one product is more moderately priced than the other two, but i don't know the nuanced differences.
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I've never used burnishing fluid as a primer. I've tried it on machine gun barrels and all I got was a patchy black finish which flaked off when I bent the etch. But that was probably just me.
I use this stuff: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/metal-prep-4k-vms-p17725/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpc-oBhCGARIsAH6ote8-UNSliKS85B7IaP9WlUmw2SMwhudUZjxmZq_FfYMJOfsG4ovdnmAaAvlXEALw_wcB (https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/metal-prep-4k-vms-p17725/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpc-oBhCGARIsAH6ote8-UNSliKS85B7IaP9WlUmw2SMwhudUZjxmZq_FfYMJOfsG4ovdnmAaAvlXEALw_wcB)
It's not cheap, but works for me. You need to clean the etch first with IPA or similar.
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not a product which i've heard, but the VMS range appears in a number of guises and is something which i'd like to dip a toe. the cost is pretty much in line with the products i mentioned and from your caution if the bending/ forming is done prior, it might be a good candidate.
thanks
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In my short experience with the Mr.Metal primer, the “etching” is microscopic and not noticeable at all. I have only applied it after bending the pieces ( rolling Spandau jackets) etc . The paint does seem to adhere a lot better but I have not extensively tested it for durability. The YT post I watched said it would react with the plastic though so use caution!
Tim
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i'm almost embarrassed to have left the flock, but i've "cheaped-out" and ordered a bottle of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C514O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1.
i know it's not what the original question asked, but i have a workshop full of chemicals & abrasives and i wonder if i'm guilty of creating a problem where it doesn't exist.
i have used Blacken It before to color brass, and think this (linked above) will satiate the empty spot on the shelf until a real problem rears its head!
thanks for the inputs, All.
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I've used the Birchwood Casey brass black on my model ships. I like it a lot better for blackening brass than blacken it. I wouldn't use either for priming. They are both very finicky for blackening. The Birchwood Casey seems to be less so, and does a little better when the parts have been silver soldered. The parts need to be really clean (I usually soak in a mild acid, then acetone, or put in an ultrasonic cleaner) first. Diluting the agent helps prevent the thick crusting that Nigel wrote about. I've also started using copper when I need blackened metal. the blackening agents (different from what you are using) for copper don't stain wood, so sometimes you can install the part, then blacken it. A lot of times, paint is a lot easier.