forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: PJ Fisher on January 03, 2023, 03:34:00 AM
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The first time I encountered a photograph of this oddity I knew someday I'd build a model of it. Now, decades later, my brother and I are designing from scratch our own 3D 'kit' of printed parts that we can assemble. The Wight A.1 Improved Navyplane, sometimes referred to as the 'Wight Pusher', was an enlargement of an earlier two-seater design by Howard Wright produced by White & Company. Being a double-cambered, swept-wing, five-bay, sesquiplane hydroplane of pusher configuration, there really was nothing quite else like it when it appeared at the Olympia Aero & Marine Exhibition in March 1914. With an ultimate wingspan of 71 feet it was likely the largest British plane ever manufactured to that date and possibly the world's largest seaplane. As White & Co. was in the shipbuilding trade, this beast actually rests on water-displacing hulls rather than conventional hydroplane floats. It featured the most powerful aero engine yet available in Britain: the 200hp Salmson 2M7 Canton-Unne twin-row, fourteen-cylinder radial. Flight magazine noted that, fully loaded including observer and wireless apparatus, the prototype could 'leave the water within five to seven seconds from opening out the motor'. It was also fitted with a double-cambered propeller, a bomb rack, armored seats, and an anchor! Popular Mechanics dubbed it 'the most useful of all seagoing aircraft'. The German Kaiserliche Marine even ordered three, with one being delivered just weeks before the war. You can see from the photo below the Wight 'Improved Navyplane' also was one of the very first airplanes to be camouflaged.
(https://i.imgur.com/c3rC79hm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/w4Z1lBWl.jpg)
Images: Aeronautics, 27 June 1917 (left); Country Life, 5 February 1916, p. 166 (right)
White & Co. designed a handful of aircraft types that saw service during the Great War, yet the only substantial writing on them, The Wight Aircraft, by Mike Goodall, was published already fifty years ago. Only their quadruplane has ever been formally issued in kit form. I know of no other scratch-built model of the Improved Navyplane other than the manufacturer's 1/16th scale interpretation of the prototype from way back in 1914. Thankfully, the Goodall book contains a well-detailed three-view rendering of this particular craft, and a few period sketches can be found on the internet. Ultimately about a dozen flew in British service, mostly on coastal patrol, though a few were sent to the Dardanelles. We are focusing on these.
(https://i.imgur.com/gXl1Cgdl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/wulSOUDl.jpg)
(images: Flight, May 1914)
Over the past months I've been gathering information and slowly learning how to use Fusion 360, but my brother is doing all the real 3D design work. Modeling this bird is proving a challenge. There's no enclosed cockpit, so every detail is exposed, including the motor, which also has never before been modeled en masse in scale form. Everything is tiny and fragile in 1/72 scale and guesswork will be involved. We also are experimenting with rendering the Navyplane in 'stripdown' form with the double-arched wing ribs, stiffening rods, and spars fully visible... and potentially coverable. More to follow but for now here are some of our early renderings from a few months back:
(https://i.imgur.com/8jy7v5Tm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/1sqxAaSm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/mRbx7Mrm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/p3PVfaPm.png)
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Wow Paul,
I can see why you need that ruler!
This will be a stunner!
Cheers
Willem
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Hats off to you Paul, I will follow with interest.
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Nectar of the Gods Paul.....Bravo!!!
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Looks really interesting! Don't hesitate to show us lots of details about the design work. The whole 3D thing is quite intriguing.
/Fredrik
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I am excited to see this.
Alan.
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What a fascinating project, I shall follow with great interest.
Richie
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What a challenge - a strip dowm model in the One True Scale. Now that really is exciting.
Stephen.
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Amazed that you took on such a beast and astounded by what's appearing so far. Pulling up a chair and popcorn in readiness for the next instalment 8)
Paul
ps
Thought you might mean 'reflexed' aerofoil, but it really is 'double-cambered' which is something I've never seen on an aircraft (or model) before :o
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An interesting and spectacular project!
RAGIII
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Thought you might mean 'reflexed' aerofoil, but it really is 'double-cambered' which is something I've never seen on an aircraft (or model) before :o
Me neither! From what I gather the double-cambre feature was extensively tested (and possibly patented) by Howard Wright who was White's chief designer on the various Wight planes, most of which were double cambered. A few trade and engineering journals reported then on his design and its reputed lift capabilities though it clearly hasn't stood the test of time. Here's an image from the the March issue of Aeroplane and Commercial Aviation News, showing the double-camber idea applied to the propeller (they also tested a variable-pitch propeller). This photo also shows the level of engineering that went into the floats as compared to the rather simple nacelle, which is clearly Farman inspired:
(https://i.imgur.com/TdG7XCc.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/uUvIEo0m.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/GWE6A1Ol.png). (https://i.imgur.com/DjXF7GCm.png)
Thanks to the Goodall book we know how the wing construction looked. These renderings (above) that my brother made give a good idea of the camber. Here's where the compromise starts (at least for 1/72 scale), we are going to have to exaggerate the thickness of the ribs just a touch in order to make them structurally sound. Still experimenting with the design and the physical print process, but so far the results are promising. Third image above shows how we're trying to align the rib cutaways so the inner diagonal rigging wires can be run. But rendering is just half of the challenge. Even the way a given object is set up to print can influence the quality of production. Our first print was the center wing section, which was sketched directly from a drawing filed in the patent office archives. The second image shows it hot off the press and still on its intricate support assembly. The third image shows how the trailing edge failed to separate from the sprues and the whole thing was a loss.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qp2ywVBm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/hfZtZLNm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/tabaZKpm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/nrJEF8Hm.png)
Trial and error! But eventually we produced a successful first draft.
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Love it 8)
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This is absolutely fabulous Paul!
I am still amazed about the possibilities of 3d printing. And it's nice that you can work with your brother on this peculiar, beautiful aircraft.
And also I have never seen an aircraft before with double-cambered airfoil.
Great research and results!
Cheers,
Willem
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Howard Wright who was White's chief designer on the various Wight planes
That's not confusing at all ;D
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Incredible! That has floored me. Such amazing intricacy, it is truly astonishing.
Richie
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Amazing work!
RAGIII
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Howard Wright who was White's chief designer on the various Wight planes
That's not confusing at all ;D
hahahaha!
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Hi again all,
Wanted to share another update on our design progress, this time on the floats. Here again we were lucky to have an original patent drawing to work from. Though it differs somewhat from those seen on operational planes, it gives a good basis to work from. After some fiddling and several Youtube tutorials on how to use Fusion 360, my brother was able to visually match rather well the 3d rendering to the period images and sketches we've collected. This is a fairly clear photo of the prototype A.1 version (and its forest of struts) from the Olympia Show, including the wee 1/16 model on the floor aside it.
(https://i.imgur.com/MyXMLnGm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/03tJPHzm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/eePdMNjm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/13OT6Mnl.jpg)
Later the Navyplane's twin floats were fitted with steerable rudders. These managed to print just fine. We'll likely make the rudders a little thinner but for now they provide at least a decent placeholder. The great thing about 3d modelling is you can always go back and improve your work. However, printing the floats wasn't as straightforward as anticipated. They're large enough that it's wasteful to print them as one solid 'cast', so to save on material we've made them hollow. In order for them to cure properly weep holes were needed to drain resin residue. More fiddling and we were able to put the weep holes where the inner struts will attach. You can also see a few tiny holes which are pre-positioned for the top struts. These will be joined by metal pins. After sorting out all that the next problem was another graining effect left on the surface from the print process. You can easily see the distracting grain even after a coat of black primer. This is sandable but still undesirable, particularly with the finer details such as the strakes on the underside would be at risk of losing their definition during the sanding process. Ultimately we're able to achieve a satisfactory print by changing their positioning during the print process. Continued compromise.
(https://i.imgur.com/h1S7rIJ.png). (https://i.imgur.com/ruNVTYZ.jpg)
Alas, we don't have any decent images of what the circular access caps atop each float looks like. Ours currently have two simple recessed dots matching a drawing we found. But maybe they should be raised? Or a different shape altogether like a petrol tank cap? Not sure what Sopwith or Short was using but perhaps something similar? If anyone has any insight we'd be grateful to have it!
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This is very impressive work, and a type I'd not heard of before.
The ribbing effect on printing can be reduced with the anti-aliasing settings but it's not a simple 1 is most 8 is least! I have found that somewhere around 3 or 4 works nicely but you will need to play with it for each print.
Ian
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Excellent update. The compromises that you are having to make are no greater than one would normally find on a injection moulded or resin kit so there is nothing to complain of there.
Stephen.
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The ribbing effect on printing can be reduced with the anti-aliasing settings but it's not a simple 1 is most 8 is least! I have found that somewhere around 3 or 4 works nicely but you will need to play with it for each print.
Hey, thanks Ian, much appreciated. My brother tells me that he has it 'set to 1 with an image blur of 2'. More experimenting with the settings needed for sure. And seeing your work is most inspiring.
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Hello once again everyone. Thought I'd share some images of our progress with the nacelle. Once again, we were lucky to source period drawings of both the exterior and interior, including the instrument layout with a glimpse of the leather-upholstered seats (said to have armored bottoms), the air canister that jump-started the engine, and the retractable rope ladder.
(https://i.imgur.com/JVnOHC8m.png). (https://i.imgur.com/MQF57o6m.jpg)
Designing this boxlike construction of this component was simpler compared to the complexity of the floats and the wings. Thanks to the available literature we scored info on the nacelle joinery, metal fitments, and even species of timber that were employed. This is part of the fun for me... recreating a rare bird using whatever data I can find to bring it back to life. Translating that into 3d is the next stage of fun. The software we're using allows one to assign appearance textures such as woodgrain, differing metal types, fabrics, etc. This helps to visualize how the third-stage actual build will look. You can see below we designed a version with the fabric side coverings, and a version without. We also did a version with the upper metal cowling being detachable (to allow ease of access for interior details). From the perspective of designing an actual model for others to enjoy it's rather easy to print any number of parts separately... but how much is too much?
(https://i.imgur.com/PP0wF9Im.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/OPRMS9am.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/ruP5jf9m.jpg)
Now here's a debatable topic - despite the countless hours of research, learning the software, designing each component, and perfecting the printing process... it still sorta feels like cheating if the whole plane just builds itself for us and there's no old-fashioned assembly required to the various parts. Most model airplanes come with two closed fuselage halves that simply get glued together. So is it 'cheating' if we print this nacelle as one open constructed unit? I noticed that the IPMS National competition rules declare that 3D-printed planes cannot qualify as being 'scratchbuilt', yet it also seems they have no stand-alone category for 3d builders to feature their creations. Anyway, this particular build has so many struts and rigging wires to look forward to maybe having a single-print nacelle will fairly offset an inherent level of tedium and provide some strength to a quite fragile 1/72 contraption. A hobby should be enjoyable but there should always be challenge, right? What do you all think?
(https://i.imgur.com/A6e8Xgzl.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/DNoLNrEl.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/S3inoiZl.jpg)
Truth be told, just separating each component from the spaghetti of support sprues we've assigned to them without inadvertently breaking something is a challenge for me! Yet another example of how one must compromise in 1/72 scale to find the sweet spot between historical accuracy vs. modelling feasibility. The particular resin (in grey) that we prefer because of its crispness of detail is quite brittle, so we've been trying other types (notice the off-white and yellow prints) that have a bit more flexibility but with gummier detail. During my experiment to apply some Bare Metal Foil to the nacelle cowling (shown here; I thought it'd be cool to reveal in spots after chipping some grey paint off it), it didn't take long during the burnishing process for me to crush the side and crack a few spars. We're learning each day as we go. Fortunately haven't yet hit any roadblock too troublesome to overcome. Next post will include some of the smaller detail parts we've printed. Thanks for looking in!
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PJ. First of all, Outstanding work on this unique subject! It’s a real treat to see the design process and level of detail you and your brother are achieving.
My thought on a one piece nancelle is that initially I like the idea. But then I’m thinking how would I be able to paint all that detail realistically? A conventional model with two fuselage halves makes reaching all areas with a brush much more readily.
However you decide, I wish you two great success.
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Wow, what a project.
These new technologies bring modelling to a completely different level. Will be watching with great interest.
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I don't know much about 3D printing but I see what you mean about 'cheating'. This seems more like a method of producing kits than scratch building models, but it certaily adds some exciting options of self producing subjects that would never be comercially produced, like you demonstrate here with your very interesting Wight.
Actually, my first reaction was - now that you've done all the reserch and design, I'd love to have one myself...
As you know, many 'standard' resin kits come with a one piece fuselage.
I'll keep following with interest.
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Thanks for the feedback everyone!
Enathan - Well said. This undertaking has given me a new level of appreciation for all the independent companies out there that design models for other people to enjoy. We are going to shift our approach with this in mind.
Tim - Also a good point about paintability (particularly in 1/72). Case in point is the instrument panel for this plane. In addition to the drawing we also are lucky have one or two images that partly show the instrument panels as they looked in service, including this great shot that rediscovered a few years ago: https://aegeanairwar.com/cramp/photographs/cr12. We've even learned the names of some of the manufacturers of the instrument dials used and who supplied the fabric and dope. Researching and rendering the historical accuracy is a real rabbit hole to dive into. But there is a truth to 'getting lost in the details'... technology enables us to super-detail the printout, but painting it all is another challenge. Note how minute the brass instrument bezels are compared to the size of the paint brush. I suppose we could print all the dials, etc. separately? My brother did just acquire a photo-etch machine, so maybe that's an alternative option.
(https://i.imgur.com/hoAofbum.png). (https://i.imgur.com/GDrRIifm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/7am8yXIm.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/4ugAlDim.jpg)
But it's all fun. Some other nacelle details we've completed are the side-mounted radiators, the petrol tank (still a work in progress), and my only design contribution so far - the air canisters (amazingly the Imperial War Museum has an example of one in their online collection to work from):
(https://i.imgur.com/N3T8m8em.png) (https://i.imgur.com/sT6uQKmm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/vT7V78dm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/xQzY66Am.png) (https://i.imgur.com/p84GQCQm.jpg)
All this raises another good question - what's your favorite part of modeling... building or painting?
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More incredible 3d design work (hope that's the correctc terminology) this is going to be an exquisitely detailed miniature. It must be so exciting for you to see the pieces printed with so much definition.
My favourite part of modelling is the building process but it did used to be the painting and final finishing.
I think the popularity of bringing old kits up to modern standards might suggest a lot of people enjoy a challenge. It's probaly a tough balancing act between having a modeller thinking how much of an enjoyable challenge a build was and on the other hand thinking how much they struggled and thinking never again.
Richie
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Oh goodness. Those well-defined little edges are *sharp*. I share your apprehension (if I got the gist correctly) regarding 3D, but the incredible detail that can be achieved I feel it would be no going back once the plunge has been taken. I too bought a printer some time ago, but fear I’ll loose interest in modelling if I start using it…
Regarding scratch or no scratch, I would be inclined to agree with those rules that models containing significant 3D-printed parts should be in the same category - but then again, who cares? I don’t bother with competitions, I like to create for creation’s sake. The important thing is whether enjoyment comes out of it. And this one looks like it’s going to be be stunning.
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PJ. I think I may have misunderstood your intentions. I see now you have a separate instrument panel as well as other interior details. I was thinking they were going to be printed all together in one piece!
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Thanks again for the feedback, friends. Here's an update on our wing work. Because of their unusually long span and the delicacy inherent to 1/72 scale, this has proven the most frustrating stage for me so far. Again, one can see how serious the challenge of just freeing the wings from their support sprues is without breaking any of the ribs or spars. Partly because i'm not using appropriate snippers, I've had a low success rate. My little workspace has become a boneyard littered with failures. I need to invest in one of those fancy ultrasonic sprue cutters while my brother tinkers with how he formats the print process.
(https://i.imgur.com/eGs8Iufl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/0YV1O2jl.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/TRaTTeFm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/RMCw1Nrm.png)
But the overall the wings are looking sweet. These are all still test prints but the sweep and dihedral that my brother plotted are shining through here. We're still sorting out how to model the trailing edge, and we're refining the details to resemble the original structure as close as possible, but I'm happy with how realistic this is looking for 1/72.
(https://i.imgur.com/t7OgXJfm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/1zLW6AKm.jpg)
Meanwhile, I've been experimenting with wing surface coverings. My goal is to naturally achieve that translucent effect many of us spend so much time mimicking with paint. I'm in uncharted territory so I'm trying different techniques and media. My first thought was to apply vellum paper with a spray-on adhesive followed by a perimeter seal CA glue. Early attempts on the ailerons, twin rudders, and elevator came out promising (note where I had to patch the broken plastic). Once the first sides were dry I trimmed around the edges then applied the second side. It soon became apparent that the spray adhesive left gummy, stringy particles but the CA seal partly saturated the paper and was sandable to good effect:
(https://i.imgur.com/TDth0TNm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/27G0NSwm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/YUZ1Sm5m.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/LkJD2Xam.png)
The last two photo show the translucency of the grey-toned vellum paper when held up to light! Some of that adhesive gum can be seen though. Good potential here, but it's actually too transparent after it absorbs the glue, as the darker grey-plastic frame is visible even when light is not shining through. Better if I can find a linen-colored paper but paint will be required regardless. More experimenting to follow:
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Paul,
I think you are better of using this:
https://www.1001hobbies.nl/pincetten-cutters-vergrootglazen/7647-cmk-czech-master-kits-cmkh1000-ultra-fine-and-extra-fine-razor-saw-8595593110271.html
It works far better than a snipper!
Willem
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How about silkspan? I’ve tried that for similar purpose, but you do need to paint that too.
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So beyond saying I am amazed at your work, I have to ay that I am confident you will solve any covering issues!
RAGIII
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Paul,
I think you are better of using this:
https://www.1001hobbies.nl/pincetten-cutters-vergrootglazen/7647-cmk-czech-master-kits-cmkh1000-ultra-fine-and-extra-fine-razor-saw-8595593110271.html
It works far better than a snipper!
Willem
Thanks Willem! I have ordered some blades.
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How about silkspan? I’ve tried that for similar purpose, but you do need to paint that too.
I will investigate. Thank you!
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Hey all,
Some progress to share. As my brother has been sorting out the engineering aspects of rendering and printing this plane as a viable model, I've been experimenting with assembly, wing-covering and painting.
Most of the body segments are in a presentable proof state, and are starting to resemble an actual airplane when pieced together. Because the plastic is delicate and the parts small, we're using wire pins (these are made from size 8 guitar strings) to give strength. For the center section, which must bear the load of the wings and the floats, my brother rigged a hole running the length of each strut to allow the guitar string to be inserted all the way through. These were placed after the print phase but before the curing phase, to lock them in tight. Maybe overkill, but so far it's successful. In the second image you can see these wires running through the nacelle's vertical struts prior to removal from the support sprues. Image three shows the center section attached with the wires trimmed. The nacelle body still has support sprues attached that need to be trimmed:
(https://i.imgur.com/u7GI6Wpl.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/0G07E6fl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/XSfDUhel.png)
Meanwhile, I've had some hits an misses experimenting further with the grey-toned translucent vellum paper intended to simulate canvas. Reached some dead ends attempting to pre-score the rib lines (ultimately unneccessary and unrealistic). I also tried pre-staining the paper by soaking it in a brew of black tea to give it a linen color (complete waste of time and of a proper cup of PG Tips). Third, I tried pre-painting the paper with Tamiya paint... this, again for my amateur hands at least, came out to grainy and splotchy. I've since switched to MRP lacquer which I prefer much better. The good news is, even with paint covering both sides of the rudder surface below, natural light still easily shines through. Down side - no room for mistakes! One simple tiny paint drop effectively ruined the finish on one.
(https://i.imgur.com/0IlwpMam.png). (https://i.imgur.com/DW0WgkEm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/xwFkqrtm.png)
But I still believe the concept of applying wing fabric in 1/72 is viable. Here are two images with lamplight shining through the painted center section and the non-painted wings. The tweezers give a sense of scale. The wings aren't glued; rather, they're temporarily attached by two guitar-string pins at each joint. Best of all - no warping! The third image presents a new problem... even after a light lacquer spray the wing ribs can still somewhat be seen from above (without light shining through), which would not be normal in real life. Possible solutions are using a tan-colored resin or pre-painting the wings a lighter color (though this may affect surface adhesion). Still more experimenting ahead!
(https://i.imgur.com/saWZbgTl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/6eOmKspl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/w0hx3OHl.jpg)
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Some very interesting experimentation going on here, and on a very delicate subject too. The level of detail is stunning, - WNW in God's Own Scale - but I am not sure that I would want to try to put on the wing covering: I do not think that I have steady enough hands or the patience as there is so little room for error.
Stephen.
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Truly remarkable work - I'm with Stephen in that I don't think I could do it!
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Wow - amazing work on the wings!
Regards
Dave
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The level of detail is stunning, - WNW in God's Own Scale - but I am not sure that I would want to try to put on the wing covering: I do not think that I whve steady enough hands or the patience as there is so little room for error.
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen. I'm lucky that my eyes are still good enough that I don't need to use magnification in 1/72... but I'm realizing that doing so is beginning to feel like climbing Mt. Everest without oxygen - not sure how much longer I can last without it! Truth is, up close, none of the finish work on the wing coverings is satisfactory yet. You're right - there is little margin for error! The first photo below shows a visible seam running the length of the wing near where the aileron goes. Here I was impatient navigating the tricky double-camber and gummed up the vellum paper in the application process and it tore. I was able to peel and reapply it, then sealed with CA and sand, but in order to hide the seam's shadow I'd have to apply more paint. This would then ruin the translucency. Similar trouble with the second image below - I experimented with patch over the intersection between a spar and rib, but here I used too thick a glue and didn't sand it correctly before damaging the thin paper. There's also a bit of pucker near the leading edge and the framework still bleeds through too much:
(http://i.imgur.com/KEitH9Xl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/KEitH9X). (https://i.imgur.com/Ijv9f86l.jpg)
I subsequently switched to a beige tissue paper (still need to try the Silkspan that torbiorn recommended). I also abandoned the spray adhesive, switched to a super-thin CA, and changed my approach to laying and trimming the paper. Here's a image of one of the ailerons (entirely unpainted though sealed with CA and lightly burnished) with light shining on it, followed by an image of light shining through it. Much better initial outcome I think, though some paint will still be required to tone the edges. My brother also thinks the color if this particular paper is 'too red'. But now's not the time to get into a CDL argument.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZZ9sXYcl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/BLxKSlxl.png)
I then tried pre-painting the framework before applying wing coverings to lessen the 'bleeding shadow look' that the vellum paper gave.
(https://i.imgur.com/HxnmdhZl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/5wiZEnhl.jpg)
Also experimenting with rigging the inner wing structures. Still need to sort out how to run them straight and true (the rightmost wire rambles through the ribs while the leftmost is kinda cheating and is just glued along the rib undersides), but I think this is going to work out. Even better, shadows of the wires along with the inner stiffening rods are still visible though both layers of the new wing 'fabric' (last image).
(https://i.imgur.com/ymdI5uIl.png). (https://i.imgur.com/tNWjQtyl.png)
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This is a real inspiring build Paul.
Your experiments with the vellum and the translucency are paying of. I may give it a try myself too.
Beautiful results overal. This is real scratch building; looking for and finding solutions as you progress.
Willem
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I really admire your patience with the wing covering. I am sure that repeated efforts will provide a solution but I also think that experience will be important to achieve the desired effect.
Stephen.
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Those are really wonderful. Keep going =)
I see the biggest obstacles as fastening the rigging, and of course as you said, it’s completely unforgiving regarding errors. And you certainly didn’t chose the easiest wing to experiment on! Can’t wait to see the final result, most impressive.
Silkspan *is* tissue paper by the way. I have some sold as ”silkspan” and see no difference from the tissue paper I bought in a general (ie not modelling) hobby shop. You can also paint it with a mix of PVA glue and paint to stiffen it and prevent from ripping.
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You have the patience of a saint Paul! All the experimentation will pay off handsomely in the end. This is going to look magnificent.
Richie
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Beautiful results with the translucent look of the framework and rigging. I agree about the no room for error comments as well. Also agree with Torbiorn about external rigging. I myself prefer elastic line and could see it ripping out chunks of the paper fabric covering. I’m sure you will have a feasible plan. I’m just trying to imagine myself building something like this. Loving your work on this most unusual subject!
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Thanks for the feedback, gents. As for the tissue paper, I was even considering doping it the old fashioned way, though I'm not sure how it would react with the resin frame. But saturating the paper with the super-thin CA glue is looking promising. As for the rigging, my brother picked up a photo-etching kit, so we're going to tinker with fabricating mounts for the wires. This means even more tiny parts! Going to do some test rigging on the center nacelle before moving on to the wings.
(https://i.imgur.com/zRQL6S8.png)
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I think you and your brother are brave men Paul.
What you have accomplished so far is excellent.
A rare aircraft and rare craftsmanship. The last rendering makes me want to see more!
Willem
Willem
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Hey all,
In case anyone cares to see, we've made a bit more progress on our Navyplane project. I'm still experimenting with wing surface coverings but meanwhile wanted to see how the wing assembly might pan out with some test pieces. We designed the struts with .2mm metal stiffening wires running the entire length before the curing process. This proved successful, though we'll need to slightly beef up the strut thickness or maybe try stiffer wires, as these are a little too bendy. The good news is, they fit well into the pre-set holes at each wing point, though even with the very thin MRP lacquer the holes were tight because of the paint layer. We'll enlarge them with the next print. This allows for a precision I could never achieve by manually drilling the strut holes as with all my old scratchbuilds.
(https://i.imgur.com/UJ9yVXd.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/XB62I5a.png) (https://i.imgur.com/gdGmcnV.png)
For a first attempt I'm pleasantly surprised how easy it all came together without anything breaking. However, a close look shows there are some undulations with the leading edges, particularly at the joint of the center section and inner wings. Warping to the struts as well. We'll have to double-check our measurements so that all the parts print uniformly. Also, I really should invest in that jig which was recommended a while back. This thing has a 71-ft wingspan and the misalignment of my test fit is shows. That aside, it's remarkable how strong the pinpoint glue joints are and how light the framework is at this small scale... strong enough that one can pick the whole assembly up just from the wingtip.
(https://i.imgur.com/yvTtZnQ.png). (https://i.imgur.com/gFP4z1H.png)
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I certainly care to see! The wing structure looks incredibly delicate. Just like you have got the translucency sorted I know you will fix the alignment of the wings and the (invisible to me in the photos) slight unevenness in the surface.
Richie
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Goodness me, what incredible work on the wing structure!
I really do take my hat off to you scratch builders ......
Regards
Dave
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That is a superb piece of printing: that level of detail could not reasonably be achieved by conventional scratch building methods in this scale.
The aeroplane itself will lbe very impressive when it is completed.
Stephen.
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I care too! It's always fascinating to see the latest update.
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Hey all,
In case anyone cares to see, we've made a bit more progress on our Navyplane project.
”Care to see” is an understatement for sure! I’m also curious how you managed to attach those stiffeners?
Could you maybe also include holes for the rigging through the spars in the 3d design? That may be a little off, but could solve the issue. Otherwise PE fasteners may work - it certainly works with tissue paper, especially if you attach them before sealing the paper with varnish - the glue will attack the PE directly to the underlying spars due to the porosity of the paper.
Following with much interest, and getting eager to try 3d printing myself. As said, this is beyond what is feasible with traditional methods.
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Hey again all,
Thanks as always for the kind words and insightful feedback.
Could you maybe also include holes for the rigging through the spars in the 3d design? That may be a little off, but could solve the issue. Otherwise PE fasteners may work - it certainly works with tissue paper, especially if you attach them before sealing the paper with varnish - the glue will attack the PE directly to the underlying spars due to the porosity of the paper.
Good thought about holes in the spars! Yes this could be designed into the print. Though space is tight in this scale I think it would be workable. I add this experiment to our to-do list.
Meanwhile, I thought I'd share my brother's design progress on the Salmson 2M7 Canton-Unne 14-cylinder radial engine. This thing is a model in its own right. We scoured the internet looking clear images and detailed plans but couldn't find more than a handful of truly worthwhile images and a couple of period sketches. Thanks to the one or two people that helped in our search along the way. Here's where a working knowledge of how to use 3-D design programs really comes into play (too advanced for me). A lot of small pieces... counting the push rods and ignition wiring, there will be over fifty parts to this thing. Still working on the fit and contour of the cylinders. There will be some guesswork as to what the back of the engine looks like and we're still searching for images. Thanks for looking.
(https://i.imgur.com/IKsnGpBm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/wlM3C7Vm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/c72XxVAm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/3vKQKnym.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/dKmFfTql.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/GWtA1mJl.png) (https://i.imgur.com/2BGwXZhl.jpg)
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That looks like a Small Stuff engine - they are miniature models too. Superb detailing.
Stephen.
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Wow! That Salmson is looking great. So much detail in such a small package.
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Amazing detail on the engine. I had to double check that is 1/72!
Richie
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That engine looks great and beautifully detailed. I agree with Richie; it is hard to believe this is in 1/72!
Willem
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What incredible detail on this engine - and in 72nd scale - wow!
Regards
Dave
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Hey gang,
Making slow but steady progress on the final design aspects of the airframe. Latest efforts have been on sorting out the forest of tail booms and empennage placement with the handful of images we have to work from. All 3-D printed, with steel wires running through where possible/practical. Still a bit wonky and fragile (you can see a few loose joints/breaks), but we're starting to sort it all out.
(https://i.imgur.com/ViHTmd8.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/L3EgSF8l.jpg)
On the rendering front I'm starting to focus on the smaller details, such as the anchor and armored seats. This particular first attempt is based on the 'armored' sheet-metal Sopwith Pup design. I was able to roll the metal crest rail and get piping on the leather slip seat, but need to learn how to render the cushion tufting. Don't have any photos of the actual seat but a cockpit sketch I posted previously offers a glimpse of what looks like an upholstered back. Probably have spent five hours trying to create this tiny thing. Still learning a little every day.
(https://i.imgur.com/F0TJndxm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/lFkFIgum.png)
Thanks for looking. Till next time...
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This all looks extremely impressive - if a little fragile!
Stephen.
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I agree on both points!
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Incredible intricacy. Skinning is going to require a very delicate touch, I'm sure you can do it though.
Richie
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Skinning is going to require a very delicate touch, I'm sure you can do it though.
Yes, little margin for error! I'm somewhat confident I'll sort the wing covering out. The rigging is going to be the biggest challenge, along with not damaging the plane during all the handling.
Meanwhile, I had another 3D design session today and learned how to simulate some natural wear and indentations on the leather. Slow going but I kinda dig all the sculptural subtlety that's possible.
(https://i.imgur.com/91ZBplQ.png)
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The whole 3D-printing things is amazing and a bit scary, I think... but your build log makes it less so, not less amazing obviously. 😁
Really fascinating to follow!
/Fredrik
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This thread is doing my head in :).... it is so great that it looks basically unreal! Have you thought of covering the wings with same methods as the indoor ultralight flying models are done? A colored laquer film spread on water and then let to attach itself from the surface to the wing structure? I guess there might be some more durable laquers available, when one does not need to think of the weight issue?
Cheers,
Skyhook
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Have you thought of covering the wings with same methods as the indoor ultralight flying models are done? A colored laquer film spread on water and then let to attach itself from the surface to the wing structure?
I had not known about this... will investigate! I definitely have enough broken wing bits to experiment with. Thanks Skyhook!
Meanwhile, we were able to print a few new parts this morning. The little anchor came out great. The seats printed successfully also, though the cushion piping I spent so much time on is impossible to see, and the print angle left an undesirable grain effect on the cushions (though this might come in handy for other applications). Minor revisions needed. I also made a first test print of the steering wheel, which turned out like a noodle. Will have to exaggerate the size a bit to render it properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/GZ0CAbb.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/6OEP61B.png). (https://i.imgur.com/FV2mHqH.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/Zhvj5cS.jpg).
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That anchor is remarkable! Best of luck correcting the seats because they look good too.
Stephen.
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Brilliant!
You mentioned the print angle... Does that mean that there always will be this kind of print pattern somewhere, but you can minimise it by positioning the model differently in the software?
/Fredrik
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Thanks Fredrik! The simple answer to your question is 'yes'. I wish I could talk meaningfully about the creation process but my brother handles all that. Basically the machine 'prints' layers of resin that are hardened by a UV beam. Kinda like pixels on a screen. Many factors influence the resolution outcome, including the quality of the printer, the type of resin, the design pattern, software settings and, as you mention, how an object is positioned. This I think is one reason why 3D parts are commonly printed diagonally, which is also why support sprues are needed. I'm sure others here could explain it better than me. The graining sands off quite easily, but these are too tiny for that.
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Amazing resolution on the 3d print. Those creases in the seat cushion must be tiny in 1/72 yet there they are perfectly rendered. Fascinating stuff!
Richie
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Hey all,
Not too much progress to report other than we've been fine-tuning some cockpit details and experimenting with printing them different angles, which definitely influences the quality of the final product. The control column is coming along and we were even able to capture the ridges in the steering wheel (best seen on the upper-left print). Happy with the rollover edge on the seats. My brother is also nearing completion on the rear engine details, which has involved much research and some quesswork. Ready to test print all that soon.
(https://i.imgur.com/gEhY8yK.png) (https://i.imgur.com/6n2PloT.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/jizzl4q.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/H3k0Ikz.jpg)
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The control column looks amazingly detailed for such a tiny part. It will need a very light touch to remove it from the sprue without damage but you have that in spades so no problem!
Great work by your brother designing the engine, it looks very convincing to me. I'm looking forward to seeing a print of it. I'm enjoying seeing all this CAD sorcery taking shape!
Richie
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The control column looks amazingly detailed for such a tiny part. It will need a very light touch to remove it from the sprue without damage but you have that in spades so no problem!
Great work by your brother designing the engine, it looks very convincing to me. I'm looking forward to seeing a print of it. I'm enjoying seeing all this CAD sorcery taking shape!
Thanks Richie. You're absolutely right - there's a sincere struggle with making such tiny details viably printable with a minimal loss rate. At the suggestion of a few folks, we're considering going into small-scale production with some accessories (like the aerial bombs and gun mounts I've been tinkering with in another thread) but it wouldn't be an enjoyable experience or investment for purchasers if the stuff is too fragile.
But, yes, I'm slowing learning the arcane language CAD sorcery and it's almost as fun as assembling real-life model. I'm sure there are others here more savvy than me with such things. For instance, it took me days to render this Foster gun mount (unrelated to this particular plane), which seemed like a simple enough project to complete in just an hour or two. Looking forward to seeing how this prints out though. Once it's perfected, one can just keep printing it forever I suppose!
(https://i.imgur.com/3pPWh8h.png) (https://i.imgur.com/IAEh3oJ.png)
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I'm enjoying seeing all this CAD sorcery taking shape!
Richie
I say the same thing - enjoyable sorcery!
/Fredrik
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I'm enjoying seeing all this CAD sorcery taking shape!
Richie
I say the same thing - enjoyable sorcery!
/Fredrik
I am catching up here and couldn't have put it better ::) I think I understand How guys felt that built Aircraft Models from wood when Plastic kits began to take over the market :o This is the Next big change in how We do things but I am way behind the curve!
By the way Awesome work!
RAGIII
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Hi again folks. Thought I'd share a couple images on our design progress. First, the engine design is nearly complete. We're just plotting out the last of the smaller details to be rendered as clear as possible in 1/72. Really happy with how these printed out, even the rocker arm springs survived... though may just crumble during handling. We shall see.
(https://i.imgur.com/ziyVa8s.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/wQJHmrA.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/uw5RoKz.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/moKerc4.jpg)
Going back to the cockpit details, we've rendered the wireless transmitter, which is modeled on the British Army Spark Gap transmitter of 1914. My brother spent about 5 hours designing this nearly microscopic device. I'm still amazed how well the details print, though we need to probably exaggerate the coil a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/cPbb6IO.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Gt3GMCC.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/0d9dUC6.jpg)
A few more accessories to create, such as the windscreen and wing-mounted oil tank, plus some strut/boom fittings to tidy up, then we can move on to decals and photo etch.
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Incredible details on such tiny parts, 3d printing technology has advanced at a very fast rate. Will you be making the photo etch parts yourself? This is something I have been looking into recently.
Richie
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Yes! My brother has acquired the proper equipment and we're aiming to start tinkering with that next month.
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I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes. A lot if exploring techniques in this thread. I love to see boundaries being pushed like this.
Richie
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Excellent results from Pure Sorcery ::)
RAGIII
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Just wow! That’s truely impressive what can be done with a computer and a good 3D printer.
Andreas
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Just wow! That’s truely impressive what can be done with a computer and a good 3D printer.
Andreas
Yes, it seems that prices for this technology continue to become more affordable every release generation. Gaining fluency in the design software is the other major challenge. Our biggest challenge evidently is my brother Eric's cat (see last pic). Here are some pix of last weekend's print run of the Salmson engine components. We're designed it to enable as much painting as possible while mounted to minimize handling - this stuff is sooo fragile in 1/72. We're also designing a jig for the metal wires that will be used for the pushrods (third photo).
While we're at it, we are trying out AK, Alclad, Vallejo and other metallics (none of which I've used before). For hand painting details Eric prefers water-based acrylics like most mini painters do, though many Tamiya colors are a pain to hand brush. Retarder helps but only goes so far. Oilbrushers seem to be a little thicker so far but apply easy. What do you all prefer to paint WW1 engines with?
(https://i.imgur.com/NmIbogz.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/x2DQc0E.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/eI3JQsr.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/0H9yRq8.jpg). (https://i.imgur.com/TepLvEu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gs69wH8.jpg)
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Oh my! That is such tiny and intricate detail. It all looks fantastic!
My preference for engine colors are: acrylic base colors followed with an enamel wash. I can’t get watery acrylic paint to give a consistent wash. They seem to bead up and not spread evenly.
Thanks,
Tim
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My preference for engine colors are: acrylic base colors followed with an enamel wash. I can’t get watery acrylic paint to give a consistent wash. They seem to bead up and not spread evenly.
Thanks Tim - do you ever have trouble with the two types of paint bonding? I'm still learning about the new paints out there since I last completed a build.
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No sir, not when I apply oils over acrylic. Acrylic over oils doesn’t work well.
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I agree with Tim: you are achieving a level of detail which I would never have thought possible in God's Own Scale.
I also agree with him about paints: I used to use only enamels but now I mainly use acrylics, even on my large models. Enamels will paint well over acrylics, but certainly not the other way round.
I am so pleased to see that the cat has a deep interest in real aeroplanes and models - aren't they so delightful.........?
Stephen.
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Thanks. It's all been a fun learning process for sure and everyone's feedback really helps.
Eric and I are so far happy with how the original engine photographs translated to our 3D digital rendering, and how that in turn translates into the actual printed-resin elements. Today Eric assembled our first fully painted test print of the 16 plastic engine parts, plus the first seven ignition wires (Eric used Uschi rigging). Still need to attach the next 7 wires to each spark plug then the 28 pushrods (the jig so we printed was misaligned so have to redo it). That totals over 50 separate parts for something smaller than a penny! Not all parts fit quite perfectly yet - there's a distracting seam where the engine halves meet. Also, a few of the cylinders are out of alignment with the pipes not quite connect. This is a relatively easy fix in the design. Thankfully no major breaks occurred, though we need to come up with a way to separately print the many small details on the rear engine side as they are too susceptible to breakage during handling while assembling and painting.
Regarding the paintwork, it always helps to work over a fresh white-paper-lined surface. For this test he applied a thin coat of back primer to everything then applied Alclad dull aluminum to one pair of engine casings (the darker ones), which went on ok; and AK Xtreme metal on the brighter pair. Eric reports that the AK seemed easier to use but was much brighter. The cylinders were similarly done in two sets with Alclad and AK copper. The Alclad looks amazing with excellent coverage and no visible metal flakes. Eric reports that the AK copper was awful to apply but likes the color. The intake pipes and hoses were respectively painted with Model Color silver and black but this proved less satisfactory. Tamiya Dark Iron was used on the exhaust pipes. The springs were highlighted Oilbrushers silver, which went on too thick though it applied easily. The brass elements were done using Model Color, Oilbrusher and a Tamiya, but the results were unsatisfactory. All had big metal flakes and looked like glitter with terrible coverage and many details lost trying to get color on. He applied a thin wash to enhance the details.
(https://i.imgur.com/aFboEAk.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/DOca58x.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/WE1Z2yj.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/2tvZdt8.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/wMoqXz7.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/le9GStV.jpg)
Thanks for looking!
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Seeing the engine sat by a penny built up, painted and knowing there are 50 parts I am even more stunned. The little tweaks will soon be done and it will be magnificent!
Richie
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That engine detail in such a small scale is Incredible! Looks stunning painted and assembled!
RAGIII
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I am truly without words to express my admiration for that piece of model engineering.
Stephen.
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Hi again everyone, thanks as always for the feedback.
Here are images of a second mockup of our Salmson 2M7 engine that we've reengineered a little. We've also finally sorted out the pushrods. These were fabricated using 36-gauge wire from Master Wire Supply. Anyone have any leads for hardened wire in this gauge? It's rather bendy so we had to mash/straighten each rod then cut to length with a chisel blade using our 3d-printed jig. This mockup still needs seven more ignition wires to the sparkplugs, but otherwise we're happily done most of the fiddling with the overall design. Last to sort out are the magnetos/distributors, oil pump, and water pump. We're still researching various archives for potential references.
(https://i.imgur.com/VkkFVMx.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ikKku3c.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/LhWH5Ug.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/23vrj08.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/x19wydU.jpg)
Regarding our paint tests, we ultimately landed with: Alclad Dull Aluminum crankcase, AK Xtreme Metal Copper for cylinders; the Vallejo Metal Colors engine set various parts; Tamiya rubber black for hoses, Tamiya dark iron for exhaust heater pipes; Humbrol brass (not too shiny)
Cheers, Paul & Eric.
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Great work. May I enquire which 3d printer you are using for this project ?
Regards
Andrew
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That is amazing detail in this scale! Awesome work!
RAGIII
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Great work. May I enquire which 3d printer you are using for this project ?
Hey Andrew, my brother Eric does all the printwork and is using a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K... which costs less than some second-hand WNW kits these days! I'm quite impressed with its level of detail. The printing area is small though and may not be ideal for large components 1/32 or larger scales.
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That is amazing detail in this scale! Awesome work!
RAGIII
I heartily second this sentiment! Incredible detail for such a small engine!
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Words fail me. I am truly gobsmacked!
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Another gobsmacked modeller here. The finished engine with the coin for scale is staggering!
Richie
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Thanks everyone. I’ll pass along the kind words to my bro. He hates 1/72 so this will be encouragement!
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Then tell your bro that 1/72 is the Sacred Scale (ie God's Own) and that all true modellers work in it!
Joking aside I am still lost for words at the level of detail you are managing to achieve with this.
Stephen.
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“Then tell your bro that 1/72 is the Sacred Scale (ie God's Own) and that all true modellers work in it!”
I’ll third this. Any additional WWI offerings in this scale are VERY much appreciated! Especially at the quality you and your brother are providing.
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Hey folks, we've made some slow but steady progress with our Wight Navyplane. With the engine design complete, we've been experimenting with how it mounts to the nacelle. Sorting our all these little fiddly bits without much historical data to work from is a challenge. But the basic layout is somewhat similar to the Farman H.F.20. We're nearing the home stretch as far rendering the 3d elements goes.
(https://i.imgur.com/PoHOt0u.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/EFPqy8E.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/jdGem2i.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/tWxT5Kz.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/JoAw9q6.jpg)
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Between you guys, and Uncle Tony's Spit redux, and the prop hubs I got from Proper Plane, I'm suffering from 3D future shock. What next? Flying cars? Robot maids? Talking dogs...??
RE: the wire/pushrod troubles you were having, you might have already discovered this but just in case... the easiest way of straightening most soft wire that I know of is to lay it out on flat surface—glass is ideal—put a metal ruler over it, and roll it back and forth a few times. Or... now that I look at it again, is that what you were doing with that printing block?
Dave V.
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Amazingly detailed, a coin or a matchstick in the photos would give a better indication of just how great an achievement this is. The intricacy of these parts is truly something special to behold!
Richie
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I agree with Richie - the ribs alone are amazing, nebver mind the engine!
Lack of information can be a real problem with these early types - as I am finding with the Bleriot XXIII!
Stephen.
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I agree with Richie - the ribs alone are amazing, nebver mind the engine!
Lack of information can be a real problem with these early types - as I am finding with the Bleriot XXIII!
Stephen.
I agree 100% Maybe More ::)
RAGIII
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Between you guys, and Uncle Tony's Spit redux, and the prop hubs I got from Proper Plane, I'm suffering from 3D future shock. What next? Flying cars? Robot maids? Talking dogs...??
RE: the wire/pushrod troubles you were having, you might have already discovered this but just in case... the easiest way of straightening most soft wire that I know of is to lay it out on flat surface—glass is ideal—put a metal ruler over it, and roll it back and forth a few times. Or... now that I look at it again, is that what you were doing with that printing block?
Dave V.
Haha! It is amazing what tech is available to us compared to the old days. I still feel like a rookie when it comes to this 3d stuff... as evidenced by this flaccid 1/48-scale lewis gun I've been trying to design. Though our first test print is a total failure, it is promising that even the individual cartridge details are visible on the underside of the drum magazine pan:
(https://i.imgur.com/WJY7y6ml.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/unpqFYpl.jpg)
Great tip about the straightening the wires. Thanks! We hadn't actually thought of that with the jig but will experiment. I also owe a public thanks to fellow forumite Berman, who kindly sourced some fine tempered wire that I'm looking forward to using.
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Lack of information can be a real problem with these early types - as I am finding with the Bleriot XXIII!
Stephen.
True! It's particularly frustrating when we discover new information after we've designed something then we have to go back and adjust our work. is this the Bleriot you're working on?
(https://i.imgur.com/dx8D1mv.png)
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I am in awe to what you and your brother have delivered so far Paul.
The wings with the double camber look amazing!
Cheers,
Willem
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Paul,
Many thanks for the photo of the Bleriot: unfortunately it is not of the type which I am building. Only two Bleriot XXIII's were built, both for racing. I am not sure which variant that is: cetainly the undercarriage is very different from the XXIII for which I already have an excellent close up photo.
Stephen.
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It's been a little while since I've spent any time actually assembling my 3d-printed 'prototype' of our Wight Navyplane. Meanwhile we're continuing our experiments with various translucent wing-coverings and their application. One promising 'canvas' is this pale-yellow tissue paper. It looks rather realistic without paint and really allows the light through. A thin coat of lacquer paint for correct tone it should get us the closest yet to the desired effect.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qp9on7Hm.png)(https://i.imgur.com/d7n8Omym.png)
I've yet to try the new material but my brother Eric has just begun working on his first unpainted test build of the body. This includes newly redesigned hollow floats with filler caps (these double as resin release holes during the 3D curing process), a fabric-covered nacelle, improved rudders with hinges, plus the forest of the booms & struts. There was a slight miscalculation with the length of the rear diagonal strut to the float, which is too short. Otherwise, these refinements are real improvements. Here are some pictures of his handiwork.
(https://i.imgur.com/h7Xs1kz.png)(https://i.imgur.com/eO92lOx.png)(https://i.imgur.com/EGEgbig.png)(https://i.imgur.com/akmbOb3.png)(https://i.imgur.com/cFJetTx.png)(https://i.imgur.com/49aBZJH.png)(https://i.imgur.com/oeH6Clf.png)(https://i.imgur.com/ejOw8p6.png)(https://i.imgur.com/XpNNGc8.png)(https://i.imgur.com/XJS6EGZ.png)(https://i.imgur.com/HGXekgm.png)(https://i.imgur.com/oCVtoDo.png)(https://i.imgur.com/u7H04SH.png)(https://i.imgur.com/QfG2DVP.png)
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This thread just keeps getting better and better... truly an epic project. Tell Eric not to forget to put a dime (or an ant, or a carbon molecule, or whatever) in his photos for scale reference so we can be even more amazed than we are already at how small this little gem is!
Dutch
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Definitely a work of art and an incredible achievement so far.
Stephen.
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This thread just keeps getting better and better... truly an epic project. Tell Eric not to forget to put a dime (or an ant, or a carbon molecule, or whatever) in his photos for scale reference so we can be even more amazed than we are already at how small this little gem is!
Dutch
Hey Dutch,
Thanks for the kind words. Here's a mockup showing one top wing taped up with a dime for scale.
(https://i.imgur.com/YXwbhY0.png)
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Just found this thread - amazing work all round. The approach with the paper covering is really interesting, I will be intrigued to see how it turns out.
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Wow! This is some real modelling going on here!
Respect!
Sandy
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As Brian Fellowes on SNL would've said, That's crazy! And I mean that as high praise indeed. This is truly an amazing work in progress, and I'm loving every minute of it.
Dutch
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Wow! - amazing work so far.
Love your rib and fabric look
Regards
Dave
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The rig and fabric look is very interesting and looks to be working well. The whole model is complex to say the least, but it looks as though it will ultimately be a great success. I do hope so.
Stephen.
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Tremendous work. Sorry for the late comment!
RAGIII
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This project just seems to get better and better…. Looking forward to the next update
Cheers, Skyhook
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Seriously impressive work.
Alan.
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Nice job.spectacular.
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Thanks everyone for the recent feedback! Our project has been a dormant the past few months as my brother and I have decided to start a little scale-modeling company focus on WW1. We're aiming to get back to building our plane soon.
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LOL, so my brother and I are still obsessing about bring this rare aero to life, even though we haven't put any paint to plastic in a while. Our latest experiment has been with using AI to convert still pictures into motion. So we chose this interesting image of a camouflaged Wight Navyplane about to undergo the slinging process to hoist it aboard HMS Ark Royal:
(https://i.postimg.cc/mkv0t6TX/Wight-IMG-2595.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5B0SChz)
Big learning curve ahead as our little AI-generated 5-second 'film' doesn't quite get it right... or perhaps the airman involved has superhuman strength?! Video link here: https://jmp.sh/s/PikvPKeyZDFAfl7tQXv9. It's still fascinating fledgling tech tho!
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Very intriguing. He is indeed a strong chap! It is amazing what can be done with technology......
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WOW!
Just WOW!
Willem