forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: dinor on December 18, 2021, 01:59:06 PM
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And so it begins....
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I seem to be limited to 192k for photos in any one post so I am breaking them up over 2 posts..not sure if I am doing this correctly but if not then I am sure I will be shown a better way 🙂 way
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Nice start, Dinor -
I'm going to follow this one with interest
Regards
Dave
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Following along as well, just picked this kit up yesterday.
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Watching!!
Steve
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I have one these beasties in my little stash and will enjoy following
your build...onward in upward, Dinor!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Excellent start. This is a kit that tempts me. Perhaps your build will be the deciding factor.
RAGIII
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Tagging along ....
Alexis
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(https://i.postimg.cc/n91n0fgK/20211225-110251.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n91n0fgK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Kv8YyW2/20211225-110937.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0Kv8YyW2)
SMS stainless silver base followed by tamiya clear blue , yellow and smoke grey, copper then some rust and grey washes...plus some very very fine copper wire...I must be :o...crazy!
Good fun.
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...I must be :o...crazy!...
An excellent type of crazy!!
Andrew
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A lovely engine, Dinor! Well done and I'll be watching... Regards, Marc
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Nice progress!!
Steve
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Beautiful paint job on that engine! The metal is very convincing.
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Dinor,
As everyone else said, that engine is beautiful. I'll be following along!
Stuart
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It's crazy beautiful, oh wow! What a gorgeous piece of work!
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A very good looking engine!
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Excellent work on the engine. It looks fantastic!
RAGIII
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How the time goes by!..after a long break from the plastic modelling side of things I have started again on the build of the Meng DR1.
Cockpit tub complete, I tried masking tape for parts of the seat harness over the material supplied by Meng and found that it accepted washes and weathering better..at least to my eye.
I'd forgotten how much i enjoy this.
Less enjoyable is the frustration in trying to recall, unsuccessfully, forgotten techniques and having to relearn them..the number of times I've said ' now how did I do that?' or 'ah yes, of course I'd forgiotten that' ! :)
All good.
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Welcome back! Looking forward to seeing more progress on this one.....
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Absolutely super, Dinor! It's great to have you back working on this lovely model! Regards, Marc
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Welcome back, great stuff.
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Hello everyone
A quick question for the more knowledgeable...related to the gap between the tailplane and the main fueslage...is that left 'as is' after glueing the taiplane on , with a sgnifcant gap.. I suppose representing the fact it is a different assembly or component or is the gap filled in representing a continuation of the fabirc covering along the entore fuselage length ?
Some completed models have this filled in and some do not...my feeling from photos of the real aircraft is that it should be filled in to represent a continous fabric covering but not 100% sure.
Thanks in advance.
Dino
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Hi Dino,
left the gap as is
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32068/archive_photos/Early%20production%20Fokker%20Dr.1%20187~17%20tailplane%20detail%20(0008-006).jpg
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32069/archive_photos/Tailplane%20detail%20from%20Fokker%20Dr.1%20512~17%20(0079-36).jpg
Spyros
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Spyros
Thank you...and its quite significant as well.
I've also noted that in these photos the evelator is slightly up when in a static position. In other photos I noted that the elevator was down and scribed the elevators in the Meng kit to refect that....good to know both ways are correct so it seems !
Thanks Again
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Progress continues on the build...... with some minor challenges...
I put together the lower and middle wings and noticed a slight bow which I could live with. The top wing however, had a very pronounced 'bowing' which was unacceptable.
I have encountered this before on an old relase 1/24 Airfix Spitfire so armed with some experience in fixing that I set to and ground out the inner structure so it could accept a 2.4mm OD length of piano wire as a stiffener.
I laid a line of 4mm carbon fibre weave in the groove, wetted that with epoxy and then positioned the wire onto that with a little more 30 minute epoxy. Paid careful attention to not having any epoxy dry above the height of the rest of the assembly. Weighted the assemby down and just checked on it now..straight as a die and nice fitment with the lower half. Well worth the couple of hours effort.
The wings have caused me some angst I have to say. Mainly around the tabs to which they are attached to the main sprue. They required an inordinate amount of careul sanding after cutting away from the sprue, the plastic was very soft and caused some noticeable 'pitting'. Also the join line on the leading edge required filler in a number of spots, on the lower and middle wings so far, no matter how much I trial fitted and sanded.
I put this down to my relative inexprereince rather than issues with the kit. Its the first serious issue I have encountered and to date it has been a very enjoyable build.
The only other major issue worth noting was that with the motor and cowl trial fitted the motor butts up against the front cowl which is not realistic.
InitiallyI thought this was cause by part E8 not sitting perfectly flat with the bulkhead so I fixed this but the issue remains...learn to live with it time!
I offer the above points , again not as criticims of the kit, but as points of note for anyone else comtemplating the build.
Its a nice kit and a lovely scale...I am hopeful it will build into something nice....oh how I wish that Wingnut Wngs had progressed with their proposed range of 1/24 models :'(
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Interesting. The warped wings are a common issue with the 1/32 kit but the two folks I know that have built the 1/24 kit didn't have any issues with warped wings. It looks like you have solved the problem well.
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Hi Nigel
Yes I was aware of those issues and surprised as I had not read of this sort of thing with the 1/24. It was only the upper half of the top wing.
It has been very humid here in Sydney the last few days with some very hot days as well. That may not have helped.
I am a little concerned at the weight of the top wing now but the struts seem sturdy enough.
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Hi Nigel
Yes I was aware of those issues and surprised as I had not read of this sort of thing with the 1/24. It was only the upper half of the top wing.
It has been very humid here in Sydney the last few days with some very hot days as well. That may not have helped.
I am a little concerned at the weight of the top wing now but the struts seem sturdy enough.
I found the same issue with mine built for the Dave Wilson GB last year. I used a slightly different method to correct the warp:
RAGIII
Just scroll down on the first page of the build.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=14413.0
PS: Your interior looks excellent!
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An update..sort of....
When I first recived the Meng kit I was halfway through the build of the Merit 1/24 DR1, ( I think it goes by the 'I Love' brand now). Anyway this was relegated to the shelf of doom as I progressed with the Meng kit.
As readers of this thread are aware that went into hibernation for a while and I have been progressing it the last few weeks. I was at the point where I had to think deeply about the Fokker streaking and read up the various threads ( thanks again for your excellent thread RAGIIII) and elsewhere and asked questions on this thread.
So I had a thought, why not practise on the Merit kit and Voila!..I did !
Not only that I tried a couple of different base colours ( Tamiya XF55 Deck Tan and XF60 Dark Yellow ) to see what if any effects and I also mixed in different shades of red to the olive green oil and even some Prussian Blue..again inspired and intrigued by RAGIIIs thread.
Results are attached , the right side of all aprts are base coloured XF55 and the left are XF60, the top wing has olve drab oil with no red but the merest hint of Prussian Blue dabbed on after the olive drab was streaked on, the middle and lower wing and the fuselage has olive drab mixed with a touch of red before application ( again a tiny amount) and on the left fuselage side some Prussian Blue.
My first conclusion is the Dark Yellow XF60 is the base colour I want when I compare to the painting by Russell Smith I am referencing against, theres not much differnce but its tehre in real life.
The most noticeable effect is when you mix the red in with the olive drab it becmoes notciable darker and again more in line with the painting and with some other models I have seen.
I will also add Prussian blue but tiny dabs very sparingly as its effect is intense but it adds to the mix I think.
The other learning is using a damp brush needs care as even if you think its almost dry it can take a lot of the oil streak off. One of the critical points from RAGI's thread is the use of a soft clean and dry brush to blend the raised oil pigment together.
I am quite happy with it, the process was fun and it looks better in real life than the photos, so much so that I will be finsihing the Merit kit in parrallel !!
Anyway, tell us what you think....The last photo is the Meng kit base coated and ready for its turn at streaking !!
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The effect is looking good and when I've done it this way in the past, I found oils is the way to go. Personally I would try to get more contrast between the streaks and the underlying fabric colour, when you look at photos you can see very distinct brush marks on most DrIs. But maybe the photos are hiding some of the contrast?
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I agree Nigel. The top wing especially especially became too 'blended' with a soft brush but with the other wings and fuselage sides it's more pronounced but the photos don't help.I think that's where the Prussian Blue will come in at the final stage.
One other learning I did not mention is don't assemble the model... Streak first...it was a bugger doing the bottom wing.
one question...I just read on another forum that streaking on the top of the fuselage was applied on a 45deg angle..
Is this correct?
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Glad you picked up on the 'blended' or soft appearance; as Nigel suggests a little more contrast between the streak edges will make it sing. I really like the colours and technique though :)
In answer to your question I believe the upper fuselage streaking is at an angle about 45 degrees and the tailplane streaking similar although not the same as the fuselage (as if they were painted as separate items and then fitted together)
FWIW I attached the middle wing first on all my DR1's so that I could streak the bottom one more easily and then attached the lower one and touched up the undersides where required
Coming along really nicely. I'm almost tempted to pick one of these Meng kits up myself
Paul
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one question...I just read on another forum that streaking on the top of the fuselage was applied on a 45deg angle..
Is this correct?
Like Paul said, photos show the streaking angled down from right (top) to left (bottom) as you look from behind t he plane.
There are some good images on this page: http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/0FE7BA11B2C188EBE77585B2A992978C
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one question...I just read on another forum that streaking on the top of the fuselage was applied on a 45deg angle..
Is this correct?
Like Paul said, photos show the streaking angled down from right (top) to left (bottom) as you look from behind t he plane.
There are some good images on this page: http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/0FE7BA11B2C188EBE77585B2A992978C
Just for the record I agree about the contrast. The Beauty of oils is that you have time to go back with a brush dampened, not soaked, with thinner and remove some of the unwanted color.
As for the angle of the streaks the wings were usually streaked at the angle you suggest but there are some exceptions. The fuselage spine has lots of variations including some very close to going from front to back. The tail is almost always at the angle suggested. JMHO.
RAGIII
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Heeding the fedback I woke up this morning and 'dabbled' some more!
With an almost dry brush I applied some additional streaking in straight olive drab to the existing scheme which had also fully dried. Tiny amounts of oil spread thinly by the brush.
I was'nt sure this was going to work but I didnt want to remove all my previous work and start from scratch.
15 minutes later and this was the result which I am pretty happy with. I was even able to introduce diagonal streaking on the upper turtledeck.
Oils are very forgiving as RAGIII mentions. I also took the liberty of applying a straight brush coat of olive drab oil onto the forward cockpit coaming rather than airbrush it, with acrylics, at a later stage.
I hope you agree.
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You've lost the background a little but overall I think that looks better.
FYI the panel in front of the cockpit between the middle wings was also painted solid olive green, it wasn't streaked.
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Well, it is done!!
Final streaking on the Meng DR1 is complete. Very different from the practise streaking that I did on the Merit kit as in the previous posts. I tried to retain more of the background as per some of the feedback. I also spent more time with a wet brush removing pigment.
To be honest, to my eye I think I prefer the previous streaking on the Merit kit but this is probably more historircally representative when you look at photos and other models in this forum.
Now on to finishing some detailed painting on sub assmeblies and the final assembly itself.
Dino
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Hey Dino, great looking effort.
Just a suggestion, don't look at other models for reference, look at the real thing, plenty of real reference out on the www.
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I think that looks more like the overall effect of the real thing, so good work!
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Hi Allan and Nigel, thanks for the feedback. I've decided I am going to redo the streaking.
Although I am happier with how I haven't covered up the base layer the streaks are too much alike, too contrasty and maybe too wide.
So a light light sand and start on over !
Dino
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Looks great Dino. Best of luck with the repaint!
Tim
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Best of luck on the re-paint. Remember to "be the painter"...
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/90c4c6e0-548b-462f-92fd-beeb11eb1130.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/90c4c6e0-548b-462f-92fd-beeb11eb1130.png)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/d6f64613-a9d7-46d7-add5-db59d7849ed2.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/d6f64613-a9d7-46d7-add5-db59d7849ed2.jpg)
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Thanks everyone, Allan you wonderful photo confirmed my thoughts, namely to apply my streaking would have required a two foot wide brush !
Will give it another go, it will never be good enough but it will be better and improving technique is half the fun.
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The second chance.......
I am much happier with this. The base color shows thru nicely although a bit lost in the photos and I applied a more random pattern both whee applying the dabs of oil and also using a bit more thinner.
I also used a shorter bristel brush.
Not perfect but good enough to keep moving on with the build and put it down to experience.
I hope you agree.
Dino
NB Thank you Allan31..I kept in mind your advice 'to be the painter'.!
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I think that looks better and is much closer to the actual finish. Like you say, time to move on to the rest of the build. This is definitely a good basis for a nice model.
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Before progressing on with the Meng kit I finshed off the Merit DR1 1/24 that I was using to practise techniques on.
One final test was using pencils to laminate the propellor. As outlined by Bertl in his various threads. This to see if it was easier than trying to mask off the individual laminations, painting each seperately with oil and waiting for them to dry which would have taken a very long time.
So I raided my sons stock of coloured pencils (Derwent) and went to work, and an hour or so later and it was done. A shot of Tamiya X22 clear, some iron grey for the hub and chipping with a Prsimacolor pencil. For the first effort more than acceptable. I like using the pencils.
Now on to the Merit kit.
NB : I was not aiming for historical accuracy with the propellor or in fact the pant scheme which is in the colours of Baron Von Dino
Cheers Dino
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That propellor looks pretty good. I've adopted the same approach and like it. As a last step, you might want to try dragging some burnt sienna oil paint over it and then dragging that off with a brush moistened with thinner. That gives a nice wooden colour and also gives a hint of woodgrain.
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The prop looks great, Dino! This is a method I'm keen to try.
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Much moe better with the streaking, looks very close to the real deal.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/f1711f32-428f-44b4-a852-d130dd6fd10c.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/f1711f32-428f-44b4-a852-d130dd6fd10c.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/ab29d13e-e9fe-4fa3-8e34-30120825bc8b.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/ab29d13e-e9fe-4fa3-8e34-30120825bc8b.jpg)
I do my props the same way but add layers of 50/50 mix of Mahogany and Future until I like it. Again, let the real ones lead the way.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/ede3cf68-6507-4160-a48f-9f6dfddcf3f2.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/ede3cf68-6507-4160-a48f-9f6dfddcf3f2.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/704c5f0d-88c6-4194-889f-8feae27bfcbd.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/704c5f0d-88c6-4194-889f-8feae27bfcbd.jpg)
DML 1/48
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/11e4d2a4-6fc9-4a62-8adf-36ff12b82442.jpeg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/11e4d2a4-6fc9-4a62-8adf-36ff12b82442.jpeg)
Revell 1/28
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/40198a2a-a08c-44d5-9b94-4a76cde101f8.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/40198a2a-a08c-44d5-9b94-4a76cde101f8.jpg)
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Very nice progress Baron Dino :o I really like the prop!
RAGIII