forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => What's New => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on August 12, 2021, 11:16:39 PM
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https://www.facebook.com/Lukgraphkits
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Looks soo tempting, now I wonder how much?
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Mike,
Do you know if this will be a resin kit?
Thnaks,
Mike
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I would guess it is a resin kit, just like their Friedrichshafen FF.33L
James
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Definitely resin and 3D printed kit.
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Hi, I guess these won’t ever make it to injection moulding? Never worked with resin but if it’s the only option will give it a go ;)
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Hi, I guess these won’t ever make it to injection moulding? Never worked with resin but if it’s the only option will give it a go ;)
Hi Pup7309
Resin kits are not that much different to styrene kits, but you do have to use CA adhesive or maybe two part epoxy.
The parts still need to be removed from their moulding blocks and there maybe more mould flash to clean off.
Also small or thin parts are fragile and easily broken if handled wrongly and some models are made without internal reinforcing rods, such as needed in wing struts.
The main cause of problems really depends on the the company that produce the kit.
Some take great care to protect the kit parts from warping or damage during transit and the parts are well made.
The lower end of the market don't and their parts can be pretty dismal.
The cost of resin kits tends to be more expensive than styrene, not because of finer detailed parts, but because of the production techniques used.
That's why I think most resin kits are labeled as 'limited runs', as they are possibly more problematic to produce.
Some companies tend not mass produce and stock pile kits, but instead produce the kit only once a model has been ordered and paid for.
Thus far I've built 10 resin models kits from both ends of the market and I'm no 'master' modeler by any stretch of the imagination.
However, I've still manged to build reasonable representations from even the worst produced kit.
If the model and scale you want is resin and the only one available, I'd suggest you go for it.
Especially if it's from a quality company, which 'Lukgraph' is,
Mike
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One thing I might add to Mikes list is that resin dust is really harmful for your health and that’s the reason why I personally prefer plastic kits. Be careful to sand resin only with wet sandpaper. I tend not to sand but to scratch the resin with a hobby knife whenever it is possible. That leaves larger chips instead of dust.
Well, however, that won’t keep me away from buying that Albatros C. III as soon as it‘s released.
Andreas
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Good points Andreas,
Health and safety working with resin.
Here's what I add into my PDF build logs for my resin models:
Below I have listed what I have found to be the primary differences for resin kits from plastic kits:
1. When resin kits are cast in their moulds, a release agent is applied to enable the cast resin parts to be more easily removed, which is similar to plastic kit moulding.
This release agent can leave a film on the surface of the kit parts, which, if not removed, can prevent paint or adhesives from adhering to the surfaces.
The easiest way to remove this film is to carefully and fully wash all of the model parts in warm soapy water, using an old, soft tooth brush, then rinse all of the parts thoroughly and leave to dry. Alternatively wipe the parts with Isopropyl alcohol (e.g. ‘Tamiya’ X20A thinners).
2. Resin, by its nature, is very brittle and can be damaged or broken easily, especially when handling small parts.
This is particularly evident when separating the individual items from the resin cast.
The best way to remove item is to cut them away with a razor saw, then clean them up afterwards.
Once removed from the resin cast, parts will normally have ’resin flash’ around or amongst parts, especially small items.
This is easily removed with a sharp scalpel blade. Heavier residue can be scraped, filed or sanded away.
4. Plastic kits are assembled using solvent adhesives, which melt the surface where it is applied and ’weld’ the joint together.
Resin however will not react to this type of adhesive and can really only be glued using CA adhesive or two part epoxy.
CA adhesive reacts to moisture in the air and on the surface to be joined. As most people know, it will also bond skin to whatever it touches, if the skin has CA adhesive on it.
Obviously extreme care needs to be exercised when assembling resin kits using CA adhesive.
5. Cutting, sanding and drilling resin will create swarf and more importantly, resin dust. The dust in particular is dangerous, especially if inhaled.
Therefore always vacuum the working area, and yourself, regularly. If you have a face mask or filtered respirator and find you can wear it whilst working, then do so.
Resin can easily be drilled or scraped, but remember how brittle resin is when it is being handled.
It is not unusual to find imperfections in resin cast parts, such as surface blemishes, small ’blow’ holes or ragged edges. This can be common on some resin kits.
These imperfections can be rectified by sanding/polishing and/or filling with modelling putty, then sanding/polishing.
6. Generally CA adhesive is supplied as ’instant bond’ adhesive, but there are some manufacturers, such as ’VMS Fleky’, that supply CA adhesive as standard, thin, slow and specific resin adhesive. Whichever adhesive is used you must ensure parts are correctly positioned and aligned before applying the adhesive.
Trying to separate mis-aligned parts once the adhesive sets will prove very difficult and may result in irreparable damage to the parts.
Mike
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Hi, I guess these won’t ever make it to injection moulding? Never worked with resin but if it’s the only option will give it a go ;)
Hi Pup7309
Resin kits are not that much different to styrene kits, but you do have to use CA adhesive or maybe two part epoxy.
The parts still need to be removed from their moulding blocks and there maybe more mould flash to clean off.
Also small or thin parts are fragile and easily broken if handled wrongly and some models are made without internal reinforcing rods, such as needed in wing struts.
The main cause of problems really depends on the the company that produce the kit.
Some take great care to protect the kit parts from warping or damage during transit and the parts are well made.
The lower end of the market don't and their parts can be pretty dismal.
The cost of resin kits tends to be more expensive than styrene, not because of finer detailed parts, but because of the production techniques used.
That's why I think most resin kits are labeled as 'limited runs', as they are possibly more problematic to produce.
Some companies tend not mass produce and stock pile kits, but instead produce the kit only once a model has been ordered and paid for.
Thus far I've built 10 resin models kits from both ends of the market and I'm no 'master' modeler by any stretch of the imagination.
However, I've still manged to build reasonable representations from even the worst produced kit.
If the model and scale you want is resin and the only one available, I'd suggest you go for it.
Especially if it's from a quality company, which 'Lukgraph' is,
Mike
I've built a few resin models now
Thanks Mike for the explanation. I really want to build this one so will give it a go despite an uncanny ability to get my fingers stuck with super glue. I have heard resin dust is toxic so might wear a mask. Got plenty due to Covid. ;D ;D
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One thing I might add to Mikes list is that resin dust is really harmful for your health and that’s the reason why I personally prefer plastic kits. Be careful to sand resin only with wet sandpaper. I tend not to sand but to scratch the resin with a hobby knife whenever it is possible. That leaves larger chips instead of dust.
Well, however, that won’t keep me away from buying that Albatros C. III as soon as it‘s released.
Andreas
Thanks for the heads up wet sandpaper it is!
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Lukgraph has uploaded an image of the main components for its Albatros C.III.
Preorders will start in mid-September. They say there will also be a Premium version with canvas and wood decals.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBbTLjms/236486575-4310388665711131-1949259816352335655-n.jpg)
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Thus far I've built 10 resin models kits from both ends of the market and I'm no 'master' modeler by any stretch of the imagination.
However, I've still manged to build reasonable representations from even the worst produced kit.
Mike - if not a 'master' then pretty darn close. I have been following your builds and find that they are very good references and inspirational for those of us not so talented.
As to resin kits, I have build a few over the years most of them of obscure subjects and were generally pretty rough all round. I still have a couple of non ww1 types in the stash.
All of the cautions already given for working with resin are all quite apt and worth heeding. Using wet or dry sandpaper wet is ideal, better yet if you can do your sanding in the sink with a very slow or dripping flow of water. I do this with large parts but the smaller bits are best done on the safety of the workbench with wet sandpaper. Using sandpaper wet also helps clean the swarf from the abrasive and it will work better longer. As an aside, I sometime use a bit of water with my dedicated to model use needle files both on plastic and resin for the very same reason, particularly the one with a finer cut like number 4 and 6.
I am not a big fan of all resin kits but kits like this just seem to get better all the time; I will have to add this one to my wish list.
cheers, Graham
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Hi Graham,
All good points for working with resin.
Worth noting,
Thanks,
Mike
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Hi all,
'Lukgraph' have said that development of the Albatros C.III is complete.
They will start taking pre-orders for this model on Friday the the 17th of September (next week),
Mike
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Hi all,
Pre-orders are now being taken for the boxings of the Albatros C.III,
Mike
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Preordered. :)
Andreas
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Me too
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I have just got my Albatros C.III in the Polish version.
All around a very fine effort from Lukgraph, quality is much better than their recent FF.33L.
What I like especially:
1. Good quality resin with not many spots requiring repair, just minor cavities and scratches.
2. Great detail on fuselage and linen surfaces, including stiching and aileron hinges.
3. Wire reinforced struts.
4. Fine FE fret without elements which would be too flat, except for the control horns which are better replaced.
5. Quite straight wings leading edges, just some typical heat treatment of upper wings will be necessary.
6. Clear instructions leaflet with extensive rigging scheme including the hints for turnbuckles locations.
What I do not like
1. 3D printed bits with evident layers which will be especially visible on metal colours painted elements. On many parts like the otherwise fine Merc engine the removal thereof is almost impossible. Me, I will consider cutting the engine into separate elements to simplify airbrushing and possible replacement of some of them with spare WNW bits.
2. Bent ends of cabane struts which join them to the fuselage. I will probably build a replacement from plastic profiles.
3. Polish chechboard decals printed on white decal sheet will require some care when cutting out, the correct outlines are marked with black lines at the corners, however.
All in all a highly recommendable kit, especially for those who have some experience with resin kits. I will be glad to make more comments when I get to building this kit, in a couple of months, though, as my desk is busy now with other projects.
Many thanks to Łukasz for giving us another fine set to work on!
(https://i.ibb.co/K09g4tG/20211103-214529.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/PDpYNsC/20211103-214624.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/pZ22BwL/20211103-214703.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYjVLCN/20211103-214718.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vq5J5sH/20211103-214816.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/nPSdX8G/20211103-214829.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/hVKCRRw/20211103-214848.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wQzR2zg/20211103-215002.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/09LjrHh/20211103-215052.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/t8DQxbT/20211103-215208.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/gRR9f5C/20211103-215313.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jMMNMNs/20211103-215401.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/6YXqZYX/20211103-215413.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LCcKSjt/20211103-215510.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/99dHmkM/20211103-215528.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/bQgb05R/20211103-215538.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/S7W0D6M/20211103-215559.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/6XWsgh4/20211103-215646.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/3rVvNVN/20211103-215702.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/8rsMkG6/20211103-215715.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Yd0qBKx/20211103-215736.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/JQqkF5x/20211103-215748.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/tKTjm6z/20211103-215755.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/9qF0JSw/20211103-215801.jpg)
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How about using a Roden mercedes engine. They are not expensive and injection moulded?
Cheers.
Andrew
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Yep it looks beautiful but I also am in agreement on the engine. The print marks dont look super apparent to me aside from whatever is going on with the crankcase (scratches?) but it being printed all in once piece is not ideal for cleanup, painting and such.
So glad to see someone doing 1/32 two-seaters though - was thinking with WNW folding that would be the last we see of anything but singles....
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How about using a Roden mercedes engine. They are not expensive and injection moulded?
Cheers.
Andrew
Yes, it can be done. But me, I have a rich spare box after building 30 WNW kits, and no spare Roden engines.
Yep it looks beautiful but I also am in agreement on the engine. The print marks dont look super apparent to me aside from whatever is going on with the crankcase (scratches?) but it being printed all in once piece is not ideal for cleanup, painting and such.
So glad to see someone doing 1/32 two-seaters though - was thinking with WNW folding that would be the last we see of anything but singles....
Those scratches are actually left over from my scratching a fingernail on the layered engine surface. These layers are not evident in all the photos but they are present everywhere. You can see them best in the photos showing the seat, the Spandau and on the edge of the propeller.
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Hi PrzemoL,
I'received my model as well.
I'm thinking of airbrushing the 3D printed parts with 'Mr Surfacer' (500, 1000 or 1200) thinned with 'Mr. Colour' thinners.
Maybe several light coats will help merge the striations of the surface of the parts and level them out,
Mike
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The one piece engine is disappointing, although not a deal breaker.