forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: coyotemagic on December 24, 2012, 11:23:54 AM
-
A while back, when I came under the spell of Rowan's spectacular Oeffag D.III trilogy, I knew that I had to build quite a few of the equally lovely Eduard kits to justify the purchase of all three sheets. Besides, there are so many variations to build: round nosed, pointy nosed, blunt nosed, winter cowling, no winter cowling, buried guns, exposed guns, sworl camo, sponged camo, no camo, etc. And all variants of the 253, 153, 53 and the lone D.II. After building this one...
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DIII%20project/DSC00174.jpg)
...I decided I needed to do the D.II next.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00698.jpg)
After all, I have the markings, have a spare 253 kit, a spare Albatros D.II kit and it looks so simple. So why not.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00697.jpg)
-
My primary concern with this conversion was how to attach the bottom wings since the Oeffag kits and their Hunnish brethren have completely different bottom wing attachment methods. Any of you who have built these kits or have them in your stash know that the German Albatrosen have a one piece bottom wing and the Oeffags have two bottom wing halves that basically butt-join to the fuselage. In order to make sure that the interplane struts line up correctly, you need to measure the fuselage width at the wing roots, then transfer that measurement to the D.II wing and cut out the center section.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00688.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00690.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00691.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00692.jpg)
I used brass rod to pin the bottom wings to the fuselage, and the strut holes line up perfectly.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00693.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00695.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00694.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00696.jpg)
Now that's out of the way, I can start on the interior.
Cheers,
Bud
-
I had originally intended to cut out the Oeffag radiator, then cut a hole for it in the D.II wing:
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00727.jpg)
...but the Oeffag wing is nearly a full millimeter thicker than the Albatros wing. So (Scott, great minds do think alike), I decided to split the radiator horizontally, then sand it to fit the contour of the wing. I used the wing as a sanding block.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00731.jpg)
They came out nice and thin...
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00732.jpg)
...and I glued them to the upper and lower surfaces of the wing.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00733.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00734.jpg)
Now I've got to remove the ailerons from the new wing, add balance horns and their corresponding slots, and reattach them to the wing.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00735.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00729.jpg)
Cheers,
Bud
-
Got the balance horns done, pinned the ailerons and restored the hinges with Aizu masking tape CA'd in place.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00736.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00737.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00738.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00739.jpg)
Now for the cockpit.
Cheers,
Bud
-
I got the underside of the wings done. We had a break in the weather so I was able to do some painting.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00740.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00741.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00742.jpg)
Cheers,
Bud
-
Well, the engine's as finished as it's gonna get. I decided not to add ignition wires since you won't be able to see them anyway, what with the intake and exhaust pipes and the Schwarzlose blast tube blocking the view. It's a lovely engine and I would really love to dress it up. I'll have to do another one of these with the top cowlings off.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC00749.jpg)
Cheers,
Bud
-
Back in April I had painted the wood grain interior, then set her aside to work on other projects. This past week I finished the cockpit and now I'm about to close her up. Here are a few shots of the innards before I close up the fuselage.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01453.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01452.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01454.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01455.jpg)
Just a little something to keep me busy until the next GB.
Cheers,
Bud
-
This is 1:48 scale? Wow, looks great, Bud. Incidentally, I have all three of the Japo books referenced, and they are pretty cool.
-
Thanks, Kevin. This is without a doubt Eduard's best kit. Definately on a par with WNW kits.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Sweet build Bud. I dragged out all my A-H albies and my D.II kit. Your ideas will be helpful. There so many cool AH markings to do. Have you picked a certain D.II? Earlier this month I finally obtained JaPo's Oeffag booklet. Fantastic resource of photos and info. Good luck! Looking forward to your next post.
Steve
-
Thanks, Steve! Maybe, with your JaPo books, either you or Kevin can shed some light on the appearance of the D.II cowling and metal panels. Were they plain, bare metal, sworled like the Eindeckers or painted grey?
Cheers,
Bud
-
Wow Bud, you work fast! ;) This looks very impressive. Great work! I want to do all of the A-H Albatri in 1/32, some day . . .
Your initial point is so true, there are so many great schemes and variations for the OEFFAG Albatri. ;D
Regards,
Bob
-
Wow Bud, you've been a busy man!!
Nice work on the wings - using them as the sanding block for the radiator is such an obvious solution and something I would never have thought of ::) ;)
Looking forward to the woodwork on the fuse and how you'll go about it.
Andrew
-
Wow Bud, you work fast! ;) This looks very impressive. Great work! I want to do all of the A-H Albatri in 1/32, some day . . .
Your initial point is so true, there are so many great schemes and variations for the OEFFAG Albatri. ;D
Regards,
Bob
Thanks, Bob. I actually started this project back in April, but lost interest and set her aside in favor of a few other projects. Everything you see up to the last photo update was done back then. This should go fairly quickly, now.
I would love to see some A/H aircraft in 1/32 scale and the Oeffag series would be the perfect starting point for WNW. Cheers,
Bud
-
Wow Bud, you've been a busy man!!
Nice work on the wings - using them as the sanding block for the radiator is such an obvious solution and something I would never have thought of ::) ;)
Looking forward to the woodwork on the fuse and how you'll go about it.
Andrew
Thank you, Andrew. How many times do we have to make a wing radiator conform to the top surface of a wing. Not too often, I'd reckon. I'd be willing to bet that you'd have thought of it if faced with the issue. Prior to this, I never thought of it.
For the woodwork, I plan on experimenting with the HGW decals designed specifically for this kit. I've read some negative things about them, but I want to try them for myself before condemning them. If they fail, I can always fall back on Uschi decals (I know they work) or just use oils. We'll see how it goes.
Cheers,
Bud
-
i remember this sweet little project from when you started her up. we really do independantly come up with similar ideas.weird how that works. it is truly a shame that eduard have just said to hell with ww1 . really bums me out. there are so many planes that would benefit from this sort of treatment in 1/48.as you know i have several wnw kits but still find myself playing with 1/48 stuff for the most part. i really find it odd buisness to get as far as they have come on the backs of biplanes and now just decide to go all messermigwolfe on us. you would thing they would still throw us 1 nice one a year. but alas.......
-
Super work on this project. Always look forward to your updates!
Steve
-
Merry Christmas Bud!
Oeffag D.II cowls and spinners are unpainted and have that Einedecker look. Most were armed with a single Schwarlose MG on starboard side. There were only 15 D.II made. Starting with 53.01-53.16. The access panels are pretty much as depicted in the Eduard 153 and 253 series. The exception of 53.01 has a rectangle bare metal panel just below the cockpit on the left side of the fuselage. Also, 53.01 has winter engine cover and unarmed in this photo.
I hope this helps. Just let me know if you need anything.
Steve
-
A few more points on "Anny". The anemometer is on the right strut. Anny is on both sides of the rudder. Flown by Kpl. Rudolf Blass, of FLIK 25D in autumn 1917. One confirmed victory. Finally, 53.05 survived the war and served as a trainer until 1924! Wow!
Steve :)
-
only one gun? wow i did not know that, glad you posted that for when i get around to my d.ii conversion.
-
Beaut work, Bud. You're making the conversion look easy.
Steve, A-H plane's are a mystery to me. Can you recommend a starter book? I've managed to pick up good volumes on French aircraft (Davilla and Soltan's tome) and Italian Aces and their aircraft, so getting an A-H volume makes sense.
Cheers.
Dal.
-
Mornin' Dal. It's early Christmas mornng here in Pennsylvania, and I'm up well ahead of the family and the dog has already walked me, so I'll offer up what I know.
The top students of A-H aircraft are probably Peter Grosz and Dr. Martin O'Conner. Both have written encyclopedic single volume hardback editions on the topic, however, they are extremely expensive (read $100+ dollars---Amazon currently lists 4 copies of the Grosz volume starting at $849!!! . . . and I thought I paid a king's ransome for it a few years ago at $150!). The O'Conner book is long out of print and not easy to find, thus quite expensive. There are two better (more reasonably priced) options.
First, there are now two very good softcover Osprey titles in their Aircraft of the Aces series: "Austro-Hungarian Aces of World War 1" by Christopher Chant, and "Austro-Hungarian Albatros Aces of Word War 1" by Paolo Varriale, both of which are readily available from Amazon or Barnes & Noble on the web for under $20 US apiece. These cover only fighters.
Second, Dr. O'Conner wrote a 4-part series of articles on markings of all A-H aircraft in the Cross & Cockade Society journal years ago. I ordered these 4 issues directly from the C&C Society website. I think I ordered both download and CD, which cost more, I think about $48 US for all four. It's cheaper if you just order the download (which worked fine), but I don't trust this infernal machine, luddite that I am! ;) The bonus here is that you get some other interesting articles from the back issues along with Dr. O'Conner's articles. This is a very comprehensive set of materials, but no color profiles if I recall correctly (the Osprey volumes have great color profiles for the fighters). If you are interested, PM me and I'll dig out the citations or do what I can to assist you ;).
I hope this helps. Perhaps Steve has some additional (or better!) suggestions.
Merry Christmas!
Bob
-
Really nice work Bud!
-
Dal, What Bob said is all I know too. One more option are three booklets by JaPo publishing on the Oeffag Albie, Aviatik Berg D.I and Phonix D.I & D.II. They are out of print and thus expensive! About $100 each! Dr. O'Connor really is the man on all thing A-H aircraft.
Steve
-
Oooops! Lost track of where I was. Sorry to hijack your build thread Bud. It was for a good cause. ;)
As always, your work is brilliant, and as always, it seems, you are giving me more ideas and inspiration to translate into 1/32! ;D My build list is now piling up on the floor next to my desk. ;) Your 1/48 work is truly amazing and inspirational. :) Thanks!
Merry Christmas,
Bob
-
A further thought and wish for 2013. A simple conversion set for the Roden 1/32 Albie 3 to a Oeffag Albie! All you need is Austro-Diamler engind, radiator, tail plane, tail skid, rounded nose piece, prop, top deck for buried mgs.
Steve
-
I'll second that Steve! Then maybe we can persuade Rowan to do the OEFFAG Alby set in 1/32. ;)
Regards,
Bob
-
Thanks so much for all your fantastic feedback, guys.
I've got quite a bit more done since posting last. Here are a few final shots of the office before closing her up.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01461.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01460.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01459.jpg)
The guns have pins that the barrels will slide over after painting is completed. I was informed, after adding the guns, that many of the D.II's had only one gun on the starboard side. Taking the port gun out now would cause too much damage, so it stays. So my story is that, due to its long service life, 53.05 had a second gun added in the field.
This model is another of my many experiments with wood grain. Here's what I plan of using:
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01463.jpg)
If it doesn't work, I can always use oils or Uschi decals.
The fuselage is prepped for the decals.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01462.jpg)
Cheers,
Bud
-
Really nice. I am amazed at how quickly you can churn these jewels out.
-
Thanks, Bo! I'm retired and it's winter. ;)
Cheers,
Bud
-
Looks great. How are the decals working?
Steve
-
Thanks, Steve. Seems the decals are working out just fine. Not as easy to use as I had thought when I ordered them. Each panel is oversized and needs trimming once in place. Kinda tricky with finished adjacent panels. Also, went through a lot of #11 blades. The blades need to be extremely sharp to avoid pulling the decal while cutting. The decals are very thin and if you try to move them too much, they will split on you and will fold up on themselves if you're not careful. They conform very nicely to compound shapes
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01465_zpse4e919ad.jpg)
Here's a comparison shot of my Oeffag 153 with the wood grain done in oils. Looks pretty close. I think the oils were just a bit easier.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01467_zps8c09ece5.jpg)
On the advice of my esteemed coleagues, I'll be adding sworls to the metal panels. This is a test piece I did using a silver Sharpie.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01464_zps4e525d64.jpg)
This particular Sharpie is a bit old and worn. I've been using it on my rigging. I'll use a new one on the sworls.
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Woodgrain looks great.
-
Thanks for the update. I have some of them and will take your warning. Im thinking a #10 blade to "roll trim" the excess might work.
Steve
-
Jewel churning sure is fun to watch Mr. Coyote Magic. The wood grain decals look great. Sounds like a headache placing them correctly. Nice work.
Steve
-
Woodgrain looks great.
Thanks, Bo. They're pretty good decals.
Thanks for the update. I have some of them and will take your warning. Im thinking a #10 blade to "roll trim" the excess might work.
Steve
That might work even better, Steve. Let me know how it goes when you use yours.
Jewel churning sure is fun to watch Mr. Coyote Magic. The wood grain decals look great. Sounds like a headache placing them correctly. Nice work.
Steve
Thank you, Steve! Really not as bad as it sounds. I'm just a whiner.
Cheers,
Bud
-
G'day, Bud. You're not whining, mate, just stating a problem most of us have probably had when trying to trim decals. Both the fuselages look good, but I think I'll stick with oils for now, now I'm confident I can get a reasonable wood-grain effect. One day I'll try the decals, though.
Cheers.
Dal.
-
The Sharpie does a commendable job for the swirl effect. If I ever attempt to recreate the pattern myself, this is the route I'll follow too as it seems to me to offer a good deal of control.
I'm always struck by how you have no fear of trying new techniques in your modelling. I admire the way you push the envelope, as I tend to be much more conservative in nature. I'm always concerned that I'll end up ruining the model so I end up sticking to that which I know.
Cheers,
Chris
-
G'day, Bud. You're not whining, mate, just stating a problem most of us have probably had when trying to trim decals. Both the fuselages look good, but I think I'll stick with oils for now, now I'm confident I can get a reasonable wood-grain effect. One day I'll try the decals, though.
Cheers.
Dal.
Thanks, Dal! I've got one or two projects that I want to use the Uschi/Ronny Bar decals on, a Karaya Albatros D.XI and maybe an Aviatik 30.27. However, I'll most likely continue to use mostly oils. It's so much easier and far more forgiving.
Cheers,
Bud
-
The Sharpie does a commendable job for the swirl effect. If I ever attempt to recreate the pattern myself, this is the route I'll follow too as it seems to me to offer a good deal of control.
I'm always struck by how you have no fear of trying new techniques in your modelling. I admire the way you push the envelope, as I tend to be much more conservative in nature. I'm always concerned that I'll end up ruining the model so I end up sticking to that which I know.
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks, Chris! My prefered method, one I used on my Sopwith Baby, would have been to first spray the metal panels black, use the Sharpie and then over-spray with buffable Metalizer aluminum, but I wasn't sure of the panel finish until after I had already sprayed the aluminum. This is plan B. As for my pushing the envelope, I never try anything on a model that I haven't first tried on a practice piece. I'm not that brave.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Bud,
What can I say other than awesome my old friend. Stunning works!
highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Happy New Year to You and Yours
-
this is what ive been using for metallics, it is awesomely easy and looks better than anything else ive tryed.
http://essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html
it is also such a thin coating that all the details are preserved. an added benefit after you metallize something you dont have to clean the brush(i have a dedicated brush for each tone that model master has) which leaves a bit of the powder in the brush making it perfect for dry brushing other matallics. in other words after you do a gunmetal toned piece you take out your aluminum brush and dry brush it highlighting all the detail.
on my last eindecker i did a stainless base coat then did my swirls with thinned floaquil brite silver(which was a bit to much contrast) so i blended it out with the stainless metal pigment brush.
i havent painted metallics in 3 years, i use it on everthing except brass/bronze/copper toned metal cuz they dont sell those tones in buffing metallizer.
i recently bought a pack of sharpie metallics,gold/copper/silver and they are cooler than i expected. i will be using them in the future for certain things.
-
Bud,
What can I say other than awesome my old friend. Stunning works!
highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Happy New Year to You and Yours
Thank you, Gregory. I always appreciate your kind support.
Cheers,
Bud
-
this is what ive been using for metallics, it is awesomely easy and looks better than anything else ive tryed.
http://essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html
it is also such a thin coating that all the details are preserved. an added benefit after you metallize something you dont have to clean the brush(i have a dedicated brush for each tone that model master has) which leaves a bit of the powder in the brush making it perfect for dry brushing other matallics. in other words after you do a gunmetal toned piece you take out your aluminum brush and dry brush it highlighting all the detail.
on my last eindecker i did a stainless base coat then did my swirls with thinned floaquil brite silver(which was a bit to much contrast) so i blended it out with the stainless metal pigment brush.
i havent painted metallics in 3 years, i use it on everthing except brass/bronze/copper toned metal cuz they dont sell those tones in buffing metallizer.
i recently bought a pack of sharpie metallics,gold/copper/silver and they are cooler than i expected. i will be using them in the future for certain things.
Thanks for the excellent tip, Scott. I'll have to use it on my next metal finish. Let me know how the Sharpies work out for you.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Hello Bud:
I am just getting back to this thread and you are doing a great job here. Your comments and modeling tips are most helpful and duly appreciated. I have used the wood grain decals and oils, not sure what I like the most. My wood grain still needs tweaking so on the fuselages I use the decals. I like the way your wood tones turned out, decals not withstanding, really looks nice. Now.........if this was only offered in 1/32nd! Maybe Roden?
Looking forward to more Bud.
Best
Mark
-
Thanks, Mark! Yeah, I can't believe no one has done an Oeffag in 1/32 scale yet. Maybe one of the resin companies will pick it up. Hopefully someone will do one soon.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Bud,
Same here my old friend. Although I doubt the Oeffag family are as popular with modelers as the Albatros family of fighters I still believe there's enough interest in the type to warrent a 1/32 scale kit or a conversion set. Maybe Roden will at some point in time or better yet WNW's.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Bud,
How did I manage to overlook your build progress?!
Really great conversion project you are undertaking here. The wood grain decals really interest me - are these available in 32nd scale?
Also, looking at how you put pins into the lower wings, how did you managed to accurately drill the corresponding holes in the fuselage - whenever I've had a go at this method, my holes never seem to be line up quite right. Therefore keen to know how you achieved this.
Regards
Dave
-
Bud,
Same here my old friend. Although I doubt the Oeffag family are as popular with modelers as the Albatros family of fighters I still believe there's enough interest in the type to warrent a 1/32 scale kit or a conversion set. Maybe Roden will at some point in time or better yet WNW's.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Gregory, although I still haven't built anything in 1/32 scale, I'd still love to see this one built by some of our very talented friends who do build in that scale.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Bud,
How did I manage to overlook your build progress?!
Really great conversion project you are undertaking here. The wood grain decals really interest me - are these available in 32nd scale?
Also, looking at how you put pins into the lower wings, how did you managed to accurately drill the corresponding holes in the fuselage - whenever I've had a go at this method, my holes never seem to be line up quite right. Therefore keen to know how you achieved this.
Regards
Dave
Thanks, Dave! Yes, HGW has wood grain decals in 1/32 scale. Just scroll down the page:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/HGW-Models/HGW-Decals-/_i.html?_fsub=2612466012&_sid=946355892&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
As for lining up the pins for the wings, I just eyeballed them by butting them against each other on my cuting board, then marking the wings with a pencil where I wanted to drill. Once I had the pins in the wings, I held them against the fuselage and marked it the same way.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Gregory, I certainly hope builders discover the refined Oeffag Albies with bigger engines and cool markings. How many tripes and D5's can you build? I think the western front prototypes are fine. Just take a chance on Austrian aircraft.
Steve
-
I meant to ask, when using the sharpie is it prime, sharpie, overpaint with silver or sharpie over paint? and my thought on the A/H machines is - until absolutely every WWI type is produced there arent enough model airplanes out there.
Steve
-
I meant to ask, when using the sharpie is it prime, sharpie, overpaint with silver or sharpie over paint? and my thought on the A/H machines is - until absolutely every WWI type is produced there arent enough model airplanes out there.
Steve
I've now done it both ways, Steve. I first used a Sharpie for this purpose on my Sopwith Baby. On that one, I sprayed the metal panels black, added silver dots with the Sharpie, then overpainted with Model Master Metalizer and buffed until I was happy with the result.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/sopwith%20baby/Sopwith-Baby-Conversion72.jpg)
On this one, it was done as an afterthought and I just used the Sharpie over the aluminum I had already applied. I think it turned out alright.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01474_zps27e891ff.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01473_zps8965657c.jpg)
The tail and wings will go on today and maybe I'll be able to start rigging.
Cheers,
Bud
-
metal on the Oeffag looks very convincing to me...
-
Great job Bud! I love the look of the OEFFAG, with natural wood and CDL---and you've excuted both equisitely! ;D
Regards,
Bob
-
Bud,
Excellent metalworks my old friend. Outstanding project.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks for the update and it looks more than alright - it looks amazing!!!
Steve
-
Bud,
What Steve said with a few extra "!'s" Veeeery nice wood and metal work.
Cheers,
Lance
-
i really like the look of that woodgrain bud. very nice effect. shes coming along quite nicely. one question i had pondered, are you gonna use just the upper and lower wing or the tail surface too from the d.ii kit? i was wondering cuz the rib effect is totally different on the old and new eduard kits. i figured i would have to either make all the dii flying surface fit the oef fuselage or sand down the nice stitching detail from the tail to make them somewhat match.
-
I said it earlier and I'll say it again. That swirl effect is top drawer Bud.
Cheers,
Chris
-
Bud,
More good progress here, mate. Moving forward nicely now - the metal effect to the cowling looks pretty good to me. The wood grain decals also look very effective as well. Looks like you are on a roll now so I can't see this taking too long to complete now.
Regards
Dave
-
Stunning work Bud, she's looking terrific!!
Andrew
-
Thanks so much for your kind comments, guys. I'm sorry I took so long in responding. I was hoping to have an update sooner. I now have the wings on and the rigging done. I'll try to get some pics up tonight.
Scott, I decided to use the Oeffag tail surfaces and leave the surface detail as is. This model was I bench queen that I had to finish up and get out of the way. Not really the labor of love that would warrant the extra work, although I am enjoying the build. There are a lot of things I would've done differently if this project had held my enthusiasm from the very beginning.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Bud,
Looking forward to the latest photos my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks, Gregory!
As promised, here is where she stands at the moment. Still working on the radiator plumbing. Should've done that before adding the top wing. Ah, the top wing... Another story altogether. My attempts to add the cabane struts and the top wing made me feel a bit like Wile E. Coyote trying to catch the Road Runner. Because I used the Albatros D.II wing and it had locating holes for the cabane struts, I assumed that the D.II cabane struts would work. Well, we all know about that particular 'a' word, don't we. After numerous attempts to get the wing to sit right, I gave up and used the Oeffag cabane struts. One of them had somehow been twisted and broken either in packing or shipping, which was another reason I had chosen the D.II cabanes in the first place. Once I repaired that one, drilled holes and added locating pins in the tops of both cabanes, they worked like a charm. With the worst now behind me, I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01483.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01481.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01482.jpg)
Under carriage and prop, then she's done.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Bud,
Outstanding my old friend.Looking forward to seeing more of dear ANNY.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks, Gregory! Hopefully I'll have her done tomorrow and I'll post more photos then.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Hello Bud:
This is shaping up nicely. I know what you mean about getting it done, not being a labor of love but enjoying the build. Some are that way. I am enjoying what you are doing here and it is coming along really nice. The combination of the natural materials, wood grain and CDL is really stunning, albeit simple.
Looking forward to seeing the prop and gear.
Best
Mark
-
Thank you, Mark. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you get it.
Cheers,
Bud
-
I really like this model Bud, and the elegant look you have given it. I agree completely with Mark--the combination of CDL and natural wood is simple yet striking! Great job on the rigging, too. Well done!
Regards,
Bob
-
This is going to be a beautiful bird. Those natural colour materials do have a special charm. Looking forward to see her finished.
-
Love it!! Beautiful work. Looking forward to the final product.
Steve
-
Thanks so much, Bob, Prez and Steve. I should have her done this evening. This is a very easy conversion.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Excellent-so now you scale the parts up to 1/32 manufacture a few thousand and sell them thereby taking up all your free time in the process... ;D
Steve
-
Thanks, Steve! That was my plan. Spare time is so over rated. ;)
Cheers,
Bud
-
The more I return to this Thread the more I like this Build you've got going Bud. The "plain" scheme is very attractive, she's a real beauty. As Steve alluded to, sure wish we'd get a 1/32 Kit on the Market for the Old Folks like me to tackle; great machine with endless great schemes. I'm sure Rowan would be all over this one real quick as they'd be flying off the shelves!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks, Lance! The Oeffag D.III is a very popular plane among modelers. I'm sure the folks at WNW are aware of that. It couldn't hurt to flood them with emails re the subject just to nudge them along a bit.
Cheers,
Bud
-
All done. Tomorrow, when the sun's up and the rain has stopped, I'll take a few more photos in decent lighting and post them in the appropriate section for stuff that's done.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/coyotemagic_photos/Oeffag%20DII%20conversion/DSC01488.jpg)
Thanks, all, for helping me to break on through to the other side.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Thanks, Red! Yeah, I'll definitely use them again. Good stuff and easy to use.
Cheers,
Bud
-
She looks beautiful Bud, the wood decals are excellent as are the rest of the decals, a superb job, well done.
Des.
-
Superb! Congratulations, Bud. I bet she would look striking next to your recent N11.
-
Looks really good!
48 is really rare now among those WNW planes, so can not wait for the gallery.
regards
K
-
Simply beautiful Bud! ;D Looks like the sun coming up on a snow-covered field with the real deal! ;) Excellent. Thanks for sharing this one with us. :) The wood grain decals are quite convincing.
Regards,
Bob
-
That's a pearler, Bud. I like the scheme you chose too- it's quintessential "WWI", isn't it?
Cheers.
Dal.
-
Superb craftsmanship Bud! You've created a real beauty. I'm particularly drawn to the variations in the woodgrain. You have a real talent for this modelling gig!
Cheers,
Chris
-
Bud -
Superb!
worth the wait to see the end result. What great conversion workmanship too. 1/48 scale really does seem to be your forte regarding model building. Love the look of those wood grain effect decals as well.
What's next on your work bench? Do you have any 1/32 kits in your stash, mate?
Regards
Dave
-
Thank you very much, guys! All your encouragement helped push me through to the end on this one.
Yes, Dave, I've got 4 WNW kits, the Ninak, Early Fee, Junkers J.1 and the LVG. I've also got the Roden 1/32 scale Nieuport 27, which I would like to trade for something in 1/48 scale, but no one wants it. The Ninak and Fee were gifts from my beloved bride, the Junkers was a model contest prize at the last OTF convention and the LVG was a very lucky trade. I will eventually get around to building those. Have to build the Ninak and the Fee or my wife will never buy me another model. I won the Nie. 27 in a Roden Group Build on another site. I have a good stash of 1/48 Nieuports, so I don't need that one. I reckon that covers my 1/32 stuff. One of these days. Maybe.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Excellent lookng bird. The workmanship looks like a much bigger scale!!
Steve
-
Excellent lookng bird. The workmanship looks like a much bigger scale!!
Steve
Thanks, Steve! Really glad you like it.
Cheers,
Bud