forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Rafael Berlin on May 17, 2021, 12:49:55 AM
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Hello everybody,
I was asked to share my progress on the AMC DH.2. This I will gladly do.
I started the model in Sep 2020. A more detailed build log can be found in the Revel forum https://community.revell.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7715&sid=4a7426ae6f0655bd3fa5ad0db418d4b3 (https://community.revell.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7715&sid=4a7426ae6f0655bd3fa5ad0db418d4b3).
The project is quite complicated. I build only, when I'm in the mood, family first. So it will for sure take a few months until completion.
Materials to be used. The kit itself:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183122994_f60c370590_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSTgQ)20200825_165452_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSTgQ) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
In addition the Taurusmodel of the Gnome Monosoupape 9, the HGW Super Detail Set and Scale Aircraft Conversions landing gear:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183384240_b35d82e358_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUdW5)20200905_122359_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUdW5) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Main sources of additional information
Profile Publication No. 91 and of course Windsock Datafile No. 48. After reading you will see, the the Windsock Datafile includes almost all information from Profile Publications.
I'm building the variant DH.2 A2504, N Middlebrook, A flight, 24 Sqn. In the manual it is described as variant E. I decided to do so, because I liked the colour scheme, I wanted to have a prop with 4 blades and it has a more spectacular aileron mechanism.
The first thing I built was the seat, because of the oils to dry.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181612797_f71d1bc8fa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9kX)20200905_161349_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9kX) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The model comes out of the box with very nice details. However, the molded wires and pipes can for sure be improved. I cut them
Port side before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181613847_c0dc1b9318_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9E4)20200906_163333_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9E4) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Port side after:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183085259_28f04c00db_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSG4e)20200906_172053_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSG4e) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Starboard side before with PE quadrant:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181613772_a64ea2ad2d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9CL)20200919_174205_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9CL) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Starboard side after:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182302686_eeae84d472_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNFqA)20200919_182337_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNFqA) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The frame was manufactured from wood and was painted in grey. I wanted to show a little bit wear. Therefore start with wood:
Base color:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181614922_006318b32d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9YA)20200927_122007_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9YA) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
For the wood I used watercolour pencils (van-Dyck brown and light yellow ochre)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183086284_7ff8fbf0a6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSGmU)20200927_125027_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSGmU) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Afterwards hairspray and the grey colour. Here a finished part, with some "fabric" in the corner.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183094424_ed9ee088ce_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSJMf)20201003_123006_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSJMf) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I did not remove the grey colour. It might sound a little bit strange, but moisture from hands and touching the parts over and over again is sufficient for the wear effect. :P
Afterwards I painted the insides of the outer shell. The main part (light brown) was made out of some kind of fabric (leather?). I dont't know. After paintimg with Tamiya XF55 I used oils for shading and underlining the wrinkles. Following picture shows before and after the oils:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181613807_c9094e49e9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9Dn)20200917_094448_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9Dn) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Before restoring the cut wires and pipes the inner frame work had to be rigged:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183394855_22181482e3_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUh66)20201011_174350_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUh66) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Some new details. I added copper wires (painted black) to emulate electric wirings from the magneto.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183402475_731792c475_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUjmt)20201128_162824_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUjmt) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Maybe interesting the trimming of the ailerons via quadrant. The old one was cut out, see above. This is, how it should look like:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181659087_eb868aa936_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKo74)Höhenruder Vertrimmung (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKo74) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I want to use a PE part from the HGW super set.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183396585_e22032f118_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUhAV)20201013_115350_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUhAV) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I added a drop of super glue as handle. Otherwise it would only be 2D. Painted brown.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182314051_c2e9ff8019_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNJNx)20201013_141836_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNJNx) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Adding some EZ line, tubes and springs made from copper wire
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181625592_9bf297b1e4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKd9y)20201017_145111_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKd9y) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Finished
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182314126_4eb949fb60_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNJPQ)20201017_174121_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNJPQ) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Some more details.
Pulsators (painted clear part):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183398895_408771aeff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUihK)20201031_122254_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUihK) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Instruments:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183401615_71e4ba5a56_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUj6D)20201117_173209_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUj6D) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Rudder
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181630362_705c67eb1b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKeyN)20201108_170557_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYKeyN) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The floor (with some wear, I later removed because it was at the wrong place)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181614987_1d20fd96ad_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9ZH)20200927_140943_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYK9ZH) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Testfit of the parts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183095654_a4e70f0a8e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSK9s)20201012_130355_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYSK9s) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Now a significant addition to the kit. As the following pictures show, the speedometer needs a special wiring, kind of armoured hose. You can see it on the following graphic bottom, right side, near the pulsators:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183428720_3c427a20f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUs9Y)ws 48 innen (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUs9Y) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Here an original part, picture from a Camel Sopwith. I labeled the hose with "Panzerschlauch mit interner Welle".
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182564203_ce093ad590_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYQ2av)Sopwith F.1 Camel mit Beschriftung (https://flic.kr/p/2kYQ2av) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I built it, by wrapping a thin copper wire around a stable Albion Alloys Ni. Silver Rod, 0.2mm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182320651_a329bce2ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNLLk)20201104_163223_resized_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNLLk) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Afterwards I painted it black, drybrushed with brass and added some black pigments until I got the finished part:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182322081_3e2f3f7e3b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNMbZ)20201128_131341_resized_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNMbZ) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Here some pics of the assemled parts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183408350_2c3ff9361b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUm6L)20201129_154720_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUm6L) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182324646_d196d7a9fd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNMXd)20201129_154330_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYNMXd) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51182539163_c207ec9407_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYPTHM)20201129_155552_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYPTHM) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183425539_b6874df66a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUrd8)20201129_160216_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kYUrd8) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
That was the status from Nov 2020.
Next step would be the Taurusmodels Motor. I will post in the next few days.
Best regards
Rafael
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Wow Rafael, you certainly know how to make an entrance!!
Great work on the cockpit and the woodwork!
Willem
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WOW! Thanks for sharing and starting a build log here! I have seen some very good builds of this kit but yours is shaping up to be the best. Very inspiring work .
RAGIII
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Great stuff, lovely interior!
Andreas
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Really nice work !
I like how you do your woodgrain ...I as well use pencil crayons . Nice touch !
Alexis
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This is certainly one of the best models that I have seen based on this kit. The extra details that you are adding are extremely impressive. I will be keeping n eye open for future updates.
Stephen.
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Oh my, what a great work on the interior! It will be another great thread to follow. Many thank for sharing!
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Beautiful work so far.
Can't wait to see how you finish the exterior!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Great work so far Rafael, the interior is absolutely magnificent. I built this kit several years ago, wish I'd had this Build to refer to then. I know I'm going to really enjoy following your progress.
Cheers,
Lance
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Spectacular work Rafael and your progress photos are excellent. Many thanks for sharing your excellent build with us.
warm regards
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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This is a very promising build, you did a great improvement work to your interiors. Thank you for sharing.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Stunning details, Rafael. The interior looks brilliant.
Looking forward to see the next steps.
Bye, Manni
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Brilliant work level, unavailable for me but I will certainly follow.
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Sensational work on your interior - as others have stated this has to be one of the best detail jobs on this model to be seen.
Cheers,
Gary
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As others have already said - stunning interior work!
Look forward to seeing more progress reports
Regards
Dave
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Thank you so much to all of you for your kind words. I'm very happy that you like it so much. :)
Hopefully tomorrow I will send some pics from the motor.
Best regards
Rafael
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Awesome work, Rafael.
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Hello everybody,
as promised here are the pics of the motor. Please tell me, if it is too detailed. I have the feeling that most construction reports show more or less final results from major steps and not the way to the result.
But OK. This is how the WingnutWings part looks like. Missing material, but 2 spark plugs per cylinder in order to be prepared for different motor variants (Oberursel U1 has spark plugs at the rear side).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187434386_a5a270f9dd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZfYUb)20201204_182650_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZfYUb) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I decided to try the Taurusmodels Gnôme Monosoupape, which is a model of its own with approximately 90 resin parts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188557590_ca4e90ab1a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmJML)20200825_164752 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmJML) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Direct comparison...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187434791_8600251223_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZfZ2a)20201204_195822_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZfZ2a) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
But take one step back. The cylinders were primed glossy black. Afterwards they only have been sprayed with Alclad 2 Aluminium more or less directly from above and from the under side. So the gaps between the ribs stay dark.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187458281_7188eb0eba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg71a)20201209_173636 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg71a) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Excellent fit of the parts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188235489_5f08160b97_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZk63i)20201210_122016_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZk63i) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Now for the valves. Valves, rocker arms etc are all made from individual parts. You don't have spare parts, so you have to be very careful.
2 valves are displayed open, others clothed
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187685768_0f09150714_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhgCm)20201210_170759_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhgCm) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The rocker arms are extremely fragile.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187467306_9dcf60c8be_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg9FL)20201210_173023_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg9FL) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
My method to cut them off the sprue: First cut it off with lot of the sprue material. Afterwards make several orthogonal cuts. Now you can cut off the remaining sprue in little squares
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187467386_00c6794bdc_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg9H9)20201210_173825_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZg9H9) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Assembly. They clip together and are movable. I painted them black and drybrushed them. The color kind of fixes them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186769897_6816e5ced1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcznt)20201211_165214_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcznt) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Here are the spark plugs. Later I changed the black color to white, because of a photography in the WnW instruction. Both variants seemed to be common, but I like the contrast a little bit more.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187688308_66391356de_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhho9)20201214_165311_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhho9) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Cylinders with valves (one open, the other closed) and white spark plugs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187689338_ad7215bb47_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhhFU)20201221_132325_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhhFU) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Some parts are really tiny as for example the following one. I lost 2 of them and it cost literally hours, to find them again. Lukasz, please add some spare parts to future models!!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188540210_01c8579828_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmDC7)20201225_142508_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmDC7) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
It directly fits on the rocker arm. Movable!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188566730_3f828a47ac_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmMvm)aufgeklipst (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmMvm) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
More small parts. Put the silver joint heads into gold openings. Then assembly. Decals are from the WnW kit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186773467_4427938389_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcAr2)20201221_134013_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcAr2) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187690083_3e65ddf97f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhhUK)20201221_140053_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhhUK) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187472456_9f8739fbd6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgbdy)20201221_173135_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgbdy) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
For assembly with the aircraft the WnW shaft has to be cut ("muss weg"). The radius at the shown place is to large ("Radius zu groß"). Needs some adjustment to fit to the Taurus.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186803122_cfb13ce807_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcKfj)Bauteil Bearbeitung (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcKfj) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Modified shaft glued to the Taurus motor:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186775457_a065359cf7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcB2k)20201222_121813_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcB2k) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Put in all cylinders
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186777112_4de52bb814_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcBvS)20201225_211724_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcBvS) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
As already mentioned, everything is still movable (or removable). Rocker arm removed, rod glued to the tiny joint part.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51186777827_384362d632_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcBJc)20201227_121102_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZcBJc) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Put it back into place...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187695058_1a1707696e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhjow)20201227_120036_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZhjow) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
... and glue it to the other joint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187476946_ea0cdf2cd5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgcxY)20201227_120314_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgcxY) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Several hours later
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187477666_8fea229074_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgcLo)20201227_183459_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgcLo) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Now for the commutator. Made from bakelite. Ir sprayed first a layer of desert yellow and afterwards a layer of clear orange (both Tamiya). I added some black pigments for the structure.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187479036_31c15ebe44_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdb1)20201228_161109_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdb1) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
For the electrical connections I did NOT use the parts of the Taurusmodel, but some nickel silver rods 0.2mm from Albion alloys. Afterglueing, they were blackened and afterwards painted with brass color.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188254649_cea9065214_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkbJD)20201228_162548_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkbJD) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188254619_8f0d740b62_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkbJ8)20201228_171258_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkbJ8) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187480516_d0bdb69b69_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdBw)20201228_172349_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdBw) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Dry assembly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187481356_3f19ad2499_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdS1)20201228_173701_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgdS1) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The commutator plate has a nice side (which you have seen) and a not so nice side with some glue points. For the final model I will change it in a way that the unfavourable side faces to the frame and will not be seen in the later airplane.
For wiring I used single wires from an old monitor cable. Wrapped them around a 0.2mm drill and slightly pulled them apart
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188548115_1b01acca03_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmFYp)20201231_172456_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmFYp) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Here are some pictures of the finished taurusmodels Gnôme Monosoupape
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188263174_eba7999a78_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkegC)20210101_131235 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkegC) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188264249_802c1f55b0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkeAa)20210101_131139 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkeAa) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51187486436_3ddbcfaa1f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgfnA)20210101_130608 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZgfnA) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188556200_6c8fb9efbc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmJnN)20210101_125728 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZmJnN) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Thanks for watching.
Best Regards
Rafael
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That is not too detailed: it is inspiring! That assembly must have taken you hours and cost a great deal in patience. Brilliant modelling.
Stephen.
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You can never have enough detail , all depends how far the rabbit hole you are willing to travel ! Beautiful job on the rotary !
Alexis
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Fantastic work and photos. Thanks so much for sharing.
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Brilliant, I enjoyed the all the step by step progress details. That engine is spectacular!
Richie
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Okay, it's official now.
I'm going to take up knitting...
This is Champions League modelling. Showing all the construction steps is very helpful, please continue this way!
Willem
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Wow, Rafael. This is mind-blowing. These tiny parts.... incredible. Please go on with your detailed step by step construction thread it could never be too detailed.
Chapeau,
Manni
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As for me Your report is perfect and seems to be a guide for beginners, like me.
So, please, don't stop ;)
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Lovely job on that Gnome Mono. But you should try Taurus Clerget engine once. It has almost 300 elements... ;)
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Inspiring stuff, Rafael - you have the patience of a saint.
I'd be doing a "Ballistic Bob" with those millimetric parts I think!
see attached
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbNyGXRp_iE&list=PL34D8A838206B5339&index=6
Sandy
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Awesome detailing going on here Rafael, very inspiring!!!
Kent
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Incredible work on all of those TINY details! The paint work looks terrific! I am joining Willem in the Knitting circle...anyone want to buy a WNW DH2 ;D
RAGIII
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Outstanding detail work.
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Good grief - your engine work is amazing!
Love the coiled ignition leads
Regards
Dave
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Engine looks great. I like your explanation on how you did the plug wires, very informative. That engine is going to certainly draw a lot of attention when the model is finished.
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I'd like to see a video or three of the engine runs, please! :o
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Thank you very much for your positive feedback :D
@PrzemoL
300 parts for the Clerget? So if I ever build the Caudron G-III, I now know what will expect me :-\
@macsporran Thanks for the Ballistic Bob episode. I didn't know about it. Oh yes, sometimes I felt exactly like that. ;D
I'd like to see a video or three of the engine runs, please! :o
Well, some may know the following assembly video of th Gnôme. It is very helpful and interesting to see position and function of each individual spring, bolt etc. Parts and functions are named. And in the end some nice animation (with sound) of the running motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh3W-9gZXFw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh3W-9gZXFw)
Best Regards
Rafael
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Thanks for the link to the video Rafael!
I had never seen this, but it is very cool and informative.
Willem
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That engine is pure art!
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Thank you!
Next part was the part was the propeller. Since I became so much positive feedback for showing detailed steps, I would like to show, how I did the propeller. There seem to be a lot of possibilities for painting it. So this is only an example, which works good for me.
The propeller of my AMC variant is 4-bladed. This makes the work more difficult, because you have to generate similar wood layers not only for 2 but for 4 blades. Blade tips are to be covered with some kind of brass shield.
Let's start with the naked part. Lovely details:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195189888_4227de8446_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWJkJ)20210109_153856_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWJkJ) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The tips were covered with liquid mask (I used Vallejo liquid mask). The main part was sprayed with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195751544_f2e03c0269_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBis)20210109_161445_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBis) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The liquid mask was removed directly after spraying. For the main color: let it completely dry over night. This is important for the next step.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195189778_1a12a5ea31_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWJiQ)20210109_162421_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWJiQ) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
For the wood layers I use watercolor pencils. I'm using pencils from Faber Castell, https://www.faber-castell.com/products/AlbrechtD%c3%bcrerwatercolourpencilpalegeraniumlake/117621 (https://www.faber-castell.com/products/AlbrechtD%c3%bcrerwatercolourpencilpalegeraniumlake/117621). At least in Germany you can buy single colors in hobby shops. In this case I used Light Yellow Ochre and Van-Dyck Brown.
Now you have to paint the wood layers on the prepared propeller. Even if the water pencils are sharpened, the tips are quite soft. Nevertheless, don't press to much. If the Tamiya layer was dry, you have the chance to even correct some mistakes with a rubber eraser. Additional benefit of the watercolor pencils is the good coverage. You can cover brown with ochre.
Unfortunately you still have to paint the layers free-hand. In my case I made 7 wood layers. You always have to make sure, that a dark layer on the front side is stil a dark layer on the backside. It will take you some time.
I suggest to first paint the layers near the hub. There you don't have any deformation. Afterwards proceed with one blade up to the tip. Always take a look from the side, check if the layer's thickness is correct for the entire blade. After you have found a good solution for e.g. the front side, you have to do the same with the backside of that blade. The colors at the edges help you to transfer the pattern from front side to the backside of that blade. Having finished one blade you can copy the pattern to the remaining blades.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195751364_8f20f9e275_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBfm)20210110_162759_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBfm) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195751464_a6384ebff2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBh5)20210110_162638_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBh5) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195751424_505224241c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBgo)20210110_162659_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZZBgo) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
In the next step you have to cover the propeller with clear varnish. If I remeber correct, I used the Alclad 2 gloss clear. After drying i put on brown oil color. Brush it in the direction of the wood grain.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195038021_4c319cb831_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZVXck)20210111_172946_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZVXck) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
With white spirit and a small paint brush you can remove the color from propeller tips. And whith white spirit you should remove some of the brown oil color from the light wood layers. This improves the contrast. In this step you still have the chance to coat some smaller errors you made before.
The follwing picture shows the propeller with partially removed oil color from the light wood layer. The left blade is still covered with oil color.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196102190_274b7bdc81_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m12px5)20210111_183055_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2m12px5) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Having finished this step, let the propeller dry for a week.
Afterwards I gave the propeller a coat of Tamiya X-26 clrear orange. In the following picture it looks like yellow, but in fact it was orange ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196102330_cf2c0b5e39_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m12pzu)20210117_165132_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2m12pzu) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Next steps are the hub and the blade tips. I sprayed them black (I think, I used Valleyo Air Color). With the HGW super detail set you also get some perfectly shaped masks. The are fine, but
----------------------------------------------------------------------
DO NOT USE THE ADHESIVE SIDE ON THE PROPELLER!!!
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The adhesion is far too strong and would damage your work. Better way: For the hub just flip the mask to the non-adhesive side, hold it against the propeller and carefully spray with a fine liner nozzle.
Now for the masks for the edges. Actually they were designed for covering the edges. I used them to cover the propeller, letting the edges bare. Just take the mask from the rear side, flip it around in a way that the adhesive side wouldn't stick to the propeller and use it for the front side of the propeller. And vice versa.
The following pic hopefully shows what I mean. The mask sticks to my thumb, not to the propeller. Just use the fine liner nozzle with quite low pressure to do the paint.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195288398_b051382170_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZXeCb)20210118_133139_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZXeCb) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Result
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196140955_b56e891ab2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m12B4r)20210118_133626_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2m12B4r) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51194367957_915fc78643_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZSw1v)20210118_141126_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZSw1v) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
In the next step the entire propeller was sprayed with Vallejo satin varnish.
In the last step the hub was dry brushed with some silver clolor (I don't remember which one). The brass edges were sprayed with Alclad II brass with the already explained masking technique.
Here the finished part:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195864074_41201681d2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m11bKC)20210118_175606_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2m11bKC) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195864099_87f2f1b9b4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m11bL4)20210118_175553_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2m11bL4) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Front side
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195301143_cb3191d41a_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZXipV)20210118_173624_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZXipV) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Back side
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195089296_dac9fcd86e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWdro)20210118_175416_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2kZWdro) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Thanks for watching
Rafael
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:-X
Willem
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Your prop looks fabulous. Thanks for showing your processes!
RAGIII
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An absolutely fabulous engine and good looking, prop, Rafael! Well done! Marc.
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Brilliant effect, Rafael. Thanks for the guide.
What is the advantage of waterpelcils over normal pencils in such tasks?
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Outstanding progress Rafael, amazing work!
Cheers,
Dave.
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Beautiful work Rafael, that prop is fantastic.
Richie
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Just found this, what an absolutely awesome build! Well Done. Regards, Pete in RI
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Lovely work on the prop :)
Alexis
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Amazing work on engine and propeller, thank you for sharing.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Fine work on that propeller. But always when admiring such artistry on British props it comes to my mind that they were usually mono-colour, unlike the German ones.
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Thanks a lot to all of you!
...British props it comes to my mind that they were usually mono-colour, unlike the German ones.
Thank you so much for that information. I honestly didn't know. Most models show the wood layers. It didn't came to my mind to question it.
However, after having checked my material, it seems to me, that also wood layer versions can be found.
Follwing picture from the WnW instruction shows a layered prop
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51200382279_211522c813_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m1pkRH)Propeller2 (https://flic.kr/p/2m1pkRH) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Next picture is an excerpt from Windsock Datafile and shows a little bit from construction drawings of DH2, For me it looks like many wood layers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51198891712_547fd45356.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m1gGLh)Propeller (https://flic.kr/p/2m1gGLh) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Honestly, I wouldnt't have done the wood layers with having your information. You are absolutely right, most origianl pics show mono-coloured props. I never realized before. But I think it is still OK to leave it now as it is.
;)
Best regards,
Rafael
PS: This is a stunning forum with so much detail knowledge. Feeling very comfortable.
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I see your point, Rafael, it seems that there are indeed the layers visible, or at least one. The argument is difficult here but I tend to see that the dark strip in the prop blade is relatively thick and it does not quite fit to the thickness of layers shown in the drawing of the prop. I wonder if it is a real different colour of the layer or something else (shadow, staining, I have no idea). Additionally, I would expect to see some layer pattern on the other blade which is not in shadow. Me, I would go for monochromatic propeller. But of course it is your decision, you have done a lovely job on that prop, I would not waste it now. Go for it. ;)
And to add one more thing - I do admire your spectacular work on this model!
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The Windsock Data File Special, "WWI British Aeroplane Propellers" is an excellent source of info on this topic. Although, on closer views the laminations can be discerned most photos show a generally "blended" appearance with the wood grain apparent but not the layers of the stock used. As a general rule on my models I use hand carved props with clear delineations of the layers or laminations on German subjects and paint the plastic kit versions using the standard oil paint "woodgrain effect" on British and French designs. A study of the photos used for reference will generally support this approach. Like any theory there are exceptions; a photo at the bottom of page 16 of the book shows a rack of finished 4 blade props in a British shop with very apparent laminated effect clearly visible. As a general assumption I suspect that British props had one type of wood employed while German designs mostly used several, thus the graphic contrast between the layers regardless of stain being applied.
This interpretation of mine is strictly my personal interpretation of very limited observation, in other words based on a very soft and slippery base of warm "puppy poop". Like I always say,"the only thing about WWI Aviation we're really sure of is ........ were not sure"!
Hope this is helpful or at least thought provoking.
Cheers,
Lance
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I have absolutely no knowledge of propellers at all, but I found some pics:
British propeller carved out of a block:
https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205125452 (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205125452)
Laminated props:
http://www.woodenpropeller.com/Basic_Propeller_Construction_-_Techniques.html (http://www.woodenpropeller.com/Basic_Propeller_Construction_-_Techniques.html)
I am not familiar with the Windsock Data File Special and these pictures may also be in that volume, but I wanted to share this anyway.
Willem
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Thank you Willem, especially for the second link. If you take a closer look on this site, you will find the correct FE8 propeller: http://woodenpropeller.com/FE8.html (http://woodenpropeller.com/FE8.html)
As one can clearly see, the are 6 or 7 wooden layers. But the main difference seems to be, that the layers are all made fram the same wood (mahogany). So, the main thing I made wrong, was to increase the contrast by lightening up the light wood layers. Best way would have been the opposite direction.
...
I'm fighting against myself, maybe simply a coat of oils to just reduce the contrast between the layers...
Arrgggggghhhh
>:(
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To fuel the discussion a little more, here's a photograph of the crashed SABCA Handley-Page W.8 OO-AHK (also known as HP-18) on 19 October 1929 near Edegem (Belgium).
https://i.postimg.cc/fLBgCtks/HP-18-with-Napier-Lion-engins-and-4-blade-prop-burnt.jpg (https://i.postimg.cc/fLBgCtks/HP-18-with-Napier-Lion-engins-and-4-blade-prop-burnt.jpg)
The W.8 was the company's first purpose-built civil airliner although it was a development of the Handley Page O/400.
It had 2 Napier Lion engines and you can see the laminated build up of the prop although no individual colours of the lamination can be seen because of the scorching.
Most likely they were manufactured by Watling and Son of Great Yarmouth who made propellers for Handley Pages and the Vickers Vimy.
But having said all that, I think your prop looks fantastic and no-one will think any less of, whether you want to keep it this way or choose to change it.
Willem
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Hi Rafael,
I isn't wrong to have the layers showing, here is an original Bristol propeller that hangs on the wall in a museum. Even after over 100 years of ageing in which oxidation would make the wood darken the layers are quite distinct.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51218099377_3cd4fa217e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2Y9wV)Original Bristol prop (https://flic.kr/p/2m2Y9wV) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Hope this is of interest.
Richie
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well, I don’t know how I missed this thread before but.... it is awesome!
you did a great work all around, but the engine is outstanding!
but here is a question for you and Alexis, as she is doing a beautiful tutorial on resin kits: how do you manage to handle such a small parts in resin? when I tried (before swearing to my self never to touch resin again) this is what happens in order:
1- separate the resin piece from the block: saw cut too much and/or not square
2- resin part eaten by carpet monster
2.2- some bad words are pronounced (better not to report here...)
3- glue part to my finger
4- glue part AND my finger to main assembly
5- trying to remove my finger trow part into outer space
5.2- some other bad words
6- try to replicate missing part in styrene and/or copper wire
7- new part never good enough
8- make without it alltogheter
9- some philosophical thoughts come to my mind: why spend so much money for a detailed resin kit since I will never be able to add all those detail in the first place?
10- turn off the workbench light and go sadly to sleep
ciao
edo
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Hi Rafael,
This is turning out to be an exceptional build :D.
Personally I'd steer clear of using the white metal landing gear. They are very soft and not really much stronger than the kit parts.
I tend to make such parts with brass tube and rod, which is much stronger and more importantly rigid,
Mike
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Hello everyone,
thank you very much for your kind comments! Please accept my appology for being mute such a long time.
I would like to proceed with the building log. Maybe not mentioning each singel step. Well, maybe some details on the wheels, just because I had the funny idea to paint them with my fingers.
OK, they are not that special. (Don't forget to paint the spoke and valve dummies inside!)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404587383_4e410b1f9a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWVn)20210419_181917_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWVn) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I had no mask for the rim to paint the rubber, therefore I had the following idea. Cut masking tape with nail scissors.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404587343_b72866d0e3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWUF)20210420_150148_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWUF) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
You get strips which you can perfectly adjust to the rim
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403575532_57ab4e7dd8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjmL8E)20210420_150231_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjmL8E) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51405124204_fdd48603db_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjuGuU)20210420_180507_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjuGuU) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The kit provides white Decals for the writing but it would be very complicating to put them on the raised letters. Therefore I prefered to do it in an unconventional manner. I put a small amount of light gray paint on my pinky and gently distributed it on the letters:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403575442_04c4d2ad55_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjmL77)20210420_182541_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjmL77) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
It doesn't need to be perfect
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404587173_11c1ee4f91_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWRK)20210420_183738_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrWRK) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
The rest was done with pigments
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51405302900_7def029f45_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjvBBS)20210420_201648_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjvBBS) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I also painted the "engine hood"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51405077419_eb15c6a948_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjusAg)20210417_132229_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjusAg) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Here the entire fusalage with some weathering
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404327371_b42030e6ac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjqBCp)20210528_204339_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjqBCp) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
I painted the auxiliary tank
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51405082664_6c0d40a480_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjuu9G)20210611_170821 (https://flic.kr/p/2mjuu9G) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Fits nicely on the upper wing (just dry fit)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404589393_f5481545a2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrXw2)20210611_171239_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjrXw2) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
As you can see, I the wings have also been painted. Maybe something for the next post, it is getting late now (in Germany).
If you would like to have more details on some part, please just ask. I made a lot of pictures and most things I remember (or have written down in the Revel forum).
Have a nice evening
Best Regards
Rafael
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Outstanding details and painting. You May have inspired Me to start mine....at which time I am sure I will have questions on your build!
RAGIII
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Love the weathering ! I used the manicure scissors as well , works wonderful !
Alexis
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Great progress so far!!
Andreas
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Outstanding work, Rafael. Intricate detailing in the cockpit and superb weathering using different methods.
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Continues to be an exciting build. So great attention to details is extraordinary.
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:o :o
(https://i.gifer.com/NF8y.gif)
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Somehow I have missed this - and it is a pusher!
Your idea to paint the lettering on the wheels is excellent - I will keep that for future reference if I build another 1/32 model. The other details and painting are just mind-blowing - very realistic indeed.
Stephen.
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What is the superlative for stunning?
What a great idea to apply the paint on the lettering Andreas!
How far do the letters protrude from the tires?
Willem
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Thank you very much!
@Willem, the letters have a height of something like 0.1 mm, maybe a little less. For comparison in the following picture a piece of 0.1mm fishing line (0.1 mm should be something like 0.04 inch).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51408348869_dc2a1a1eda_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjMe5z)20210828_122954_resized (https://flic.kr/p/2mjMe5z) by Rafael Berlin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/193069556@N08/), auf Flickr
Best regards
Rafael
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Precise and beautiful modelling, Raphael! I'm enjoying this build so much and learning so many great techniques! I'm really looking forward to more! Regards, Marc.
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@Willem, the letters have a height of something like 0.1 mm, maybe a little less. For comparison in the following picture a piece of 0.1mm fishing line (0.1 mm should be something like 0.04 inch).
Thanks for measuring that for me Andreas.
(PM sent)
Willem
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just catching up with this thread, what an amazing build. That engine is a real thing of beauty, so much beautiful detail throughout this build 8)
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Thank you very much!
In this thread I'm updating with some delay, because I became member of this forum in the middle of the build. Whoever is interested in the actual status of the model, can take a little peak in the Revel-Forum (sorry, german language). Today I completed a big step in rigging. Here a small teaser of what I will post in some days in this place: https://community.revell.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7715&start=210 (https://community.revell.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7715&start=210)
I hope this link is OK with the forum rules, otherwise please delete.
Best regards
Rafael
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Wow! You have just given me an inferiority complex.
Incredible skills.
I have this kit and will be happy if I build it to one quarter of your super high standard.
Cheers
Syd
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Would you like some helpful criticism? Otherwise please ignore my post.
You should have asked before! Your work looks nice form the handling point of view, but I assume you want to build a correct model if I look at the rest.
Your type of rigging is wrong, as there are no ropes and turnbuckles used for the wing rigging, see all the blue lines in the WNW manual. WNW stated a size of 0.1x0.3mm because those lines are RAF wires.
That was typical for many of the British aircraft types of WWI. These were flat forged steel bars produced in specific length sitting in specific mounting points on both ends, here are the result of a quick search in the net:
(http://ipmsvagabonds.com/page2/page36/files/raf-wire-terminal.jpg) (http://ipmsvagabonds.com/page2/page36/files/flying-wire-terminals.jpg)
Edit: if you don't see the pics in some browsers like Chrome (because of no http embedding in a https page) here are the links:
http://ipmsvagabonds.com/page2/page36/files/raf-wire-terminal.jpg
http://ipmsvagabonds.com/page2/page36/files/flying-wire-terminals.jpg
The pictures are small but you see clearly the aerodynamic profile so you see why WNW says 0.1x0.3mm.This is not a D.H.2 but the rigging type is the same.
There was plans with the exact length, here fro example for the SE.5a:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/FlyXwire/RAF_SE5a_RAF-Wires.jpg)
In scale 1/32 there are some fine solutions available, in my opinion the best was RB production. Really pity that Radu sold his business and the new owners shut it down at the moment (the web site is dead), I don't know about the future.
In my 1/48 scale it is harder, but I used a PE set from Part for my D.H.2.
Cheers,
Frank
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Dear Frank,
I know what you mean. I experimented with the WnW RAF rigging material, which is also sold as "PRYM 977770 knitting-in Elastic". It didn't work very well for me. Tubes for that stuff would have been too big and it didn't look good. I took some closer look on other models and finally chose a combination of gaspatch turnbuckles, fishing line and tubes (0.3mm inner diameter). Obviously not the correct way.
Honestly, I have no deep inside knowledge about RAF rigging, as you can see. Also I didn't know about the propeller. I do my best, but in the end there will be some compromises in the model.
Your comment was highly appreciated, now I know. This time I leave rigging as it is. Next time I will do better. For me it is a kind of learning by doing. And there is a lot to do and even more to learn. I hope this approach is OK for most of you.
Best Regards
Rafael
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No problem, it is your model ;)
And yes, also Gaspatch has a solution, you don't need tubes:
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-z0fnvjg/images/stencil/1024x1024/products/261/973/24231_RAF__28034.1582291522.jpg?c=2)
Cheers,
Frank