forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on March 04, 2021, 02:10:27 AM
-
Hi all,
I'm still waiting for the figures to arrive for the Roland D.VI so I can complete that model.
In the meantime I'm starting on the 'Special Hobby' 1:32nd scale Fokker D.II.
This model will represent a Fokker D.II, serial number not known, that was attached to ‘Kampfeinsitzer Stafflen’ (Kesta) 4b sometime between April 1917 - October 1918 at Royal Bavarian AF, Freiburg.
Should be fun,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/header.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/squadron.jpg)
-
I am really looking forward to this one. One of the kits I hope to purchase this year. The scheme you have chosen should be striking!
RAGIII
-
Ooh yes,
Me too ;D I want the 1/48 one so will be interested to see how you tackle this
Guy
-
Hi all,
'Special Hobby' kits can present a challenge, such as not having location pegs and associated holes for locating parts together.
Also the styrene they use is much softer than most other kits and it can be easily marked, especially with cement.
As for the streaked camouflage on the fuselage - it can be painted using oil paint, but for this relatively small area (just the fuselage mid-section and top) I'll probably use the 'Aviattic' Fokker streaked decals.
They were designed for the Fokker DR.1, but can be carefully cut and used for this aircraft,
Mike
-
:)
Alexis
-
Hi all,
'Special Hobby' kits can present a challenge, such as not having location pegs and associated holes for locating parts together.
Also the styrene they use is much softer than most other kits and it can be easily marked, especially with cement.
As for the streaked camouflage on the fuselage - it can be painted using oil paint, but for this relatively small area (just the fuselage mid-section and top) I'll probably use the 'Aviattic' Fokker streaked decals.
They were designed for the Fokker DR.1, but can be carefully cut and used for this aircraft,
Mike
Aviattic also produces "non-taylored" streaked decals both in white and clear paper - See here: https://www.aviattic.co.uk/132-roden-fokker-triplane-decals-and-accessories.html (https://www.aviattic.co.uk/132-roden-fokker-triplane-decals-and-accessories.html) - Hope this helps :-)
-
Hi Beto,
Thanks for the heads up on the non-cookie cut decals.
Actually when I looked at those I have they are these decals, not as I first thought the DR.1 cookie cut decals.
I have sheets ATT32058, 32059, 32062 and 32063 so have enough for what I'll need.
Mike
-
This will be interesting. Many years ago I built the Roden DR1 as an F1 with streaked finish (also experimented with chipping chipping along the ribs).
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=123225#1015848 (https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=123225#1015848)
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/114182?page=1 (https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/114182?page=1)
Not wanting to hijack your thread at all, but I was very pleased with the outcome.
Cheers,
Hugh
-
Hi Hugh,
Thanks.
That's an interesting thread you've done on chipping and the result you achieved is very effective.
It's a topic that I'm sure would provoke discussion.
Certainly metal areas such as fuselage forward panels and engine cowls would have suffered from chipping.
How much doped linen would chip is hard to say.
Certainly some aircraft displayed heavy degradation of the surface finish around the forward fuselage, due to the effects of engine exhaust and oil.
Rotary powered aircraft show this more than inline powered aircraft.
Recent photos of the underside of one of Peter Jackson's aircraft show that the linen had literally become transparent.
The Fokker D.II I'm modelling is a good example of the degradation at the forward fuselage from engine exhaust and oil.
Thanks again - food for thought,
Mike
-
Absolutely, the degradation of the coloured dope near the cowl is very obvious. Whether you call that chipping, or simply wear, I look forward to seeing how you handle it.
What I interpreted as chipping in the photograph of Voss’ F1 could just have been a trick of the light, but if I was to build another Fokker, I’d use the airbrush technique again for sure.
Cheers,
Hugh.
-
What a nice looking plane. It's the first time a saw a picture of it. I'll follow to see what you can do with this kit.
-
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The engine and propeller are finished.The engine has push rods of 0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube with 0.5 mm Brass tube bases.
Also 0.5 mm tube spark plugs with 0.2 mm copper wire ignition leads.
The propeller is from 'ProperPlane' and although it's a British 'Lang' type, is similar to the 'Imperial' propeller fitted to some aircraft, rather than the 'Garuda' propeller.
The 'Imperial' decals were spares from a previous model build.
The basic cockpit is also finished, but without any added detail, such as control cables, bracing wires and pipes etc.
This is because for the first time, I'm adding a pilot figure into the cockpit.
With the pilot located, just about everything in the cockpit is hidden from view, except for the top of the control column and the one instrument.
The figure I'm converting for this model is from 'Wings Cockpit Figures.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/propeng.jpg)
-
Well that's gorgeous!! Wow!
-
Beautiful Prop and Engine Mike!
RAGIII
-
That is a fine looking prop and engine - top notch wood effect going on there
-
Hi all,
The pilot figure started off as the ‘Wings Cockpit' figures - seated LSK pilot (LSK 04A).
Some heavy modification of this figure was necessary in order to get it to be able to fit into the cockpit of the closed up fuselage.
Basically material had to be removed from the legs and torso, with the arms pinned into their sockets and re-positioned.
Any gaps were filled with modelling putty.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/pilot1.jpg)
-
Nice work on getting the figure to fit in the pit Mike! He looks to be a bit Angry...or perhaps just intense 8)
RAGIII
-
Hi Rich,
He does doesn't he, probably because my plan is that he's waiting for his two ground crew to finish priming the engine before he can get airborne,
Mike
-
Fine looking prop and engine. I find I have to modify every figure I want to put in a model.
-
I don't think he is angry because of his ground crew not being there . He is angry because Mike cut him in half ! I would be angry too .
He does look good sitting in his office space :)
Alexis
-
Hi Alexis,
;D Actually just his feet as he wouldn't fit into the cockpit otherwise,,
Mike
-
Okay , but - still his feet !!! ;)
Alexis
-
Hi all,
Just an update on this build.
The fuselage is closed up now and prepared as far as it can go at this stage.
Being a 'Special Hobby' kit there was some work to do as expected.
The machine gun location required modification so the replacement 'GasPatch' weapon can be fitted.
All of the rigging points needed to be drilled using either a 0.3 or 0.4 mm diameter drill.
The rudder and elevator control cable ports in the fuselage needed drilling out and oval shaped.
Holes were drilled into the fuselage sides for what appears to have been transportation posts, used to secure the wings to the fuselage.
These posts were also fitted to the lower wings.
The lower wing 'spar' is very flimsy causing the wings to flap like a demented chicken every time the wing was handled.
To reinforce the wing to fuselage joint, I added a styrene block into the wing locating slot and onto the underside of the cockpit assembly.
This should make the wing to fuselage joint stronger.
There is also a flight control lever and cable on the underside of the fuselage which is not included.
This is similar to that of the Fokker Eindeckers and I believe is part of the elevator control run.
I've created slots for both the lever and cable.
I've also drilled and pinned the landing gear struts as originally they were intended to be 'butt' joints (never a good thing).
The strangest change was needed to align the engine cowl to the two fuselage side panels.
The kit instructions tell you how this can be done, which raises the question as to why the parts were not molded to align in the first place?
Anyway I ignored their instructions and as Frank would have said 'I did it my way'.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/cowls1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/cowls2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/gearon1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/posts3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/posts2.jpg)
-
Looking great Mike. Your usual attention to details and improving on the kit !
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I've now painted the basic colour scheme for this aircraft.
I still have to seal and apply weathering, streaked decals etc.
I decided to create masks for the crosses as the kit supplied decal are not good,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/paintdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/paintdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/paintdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/paintdone4.jpg)
-
The paint work is looking good, Mike.
-
Your painting is looking great Mike!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful job on the paint Mike :)
Alexis
-
A nice paintjob indeed Mike. The crosses look spot on, better than decals.
-
Hi all,
The 'Aviattic' clear linen effect and streaked decals have been applied.
I still need to clear coat and weather the surfaces.
Also I've made the tail skid assembly from micro-tube as the kit struts were very weak.
I had to shorten the actual skid as well as it was way too long.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/decals1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/decals2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/decals3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/decals4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/decals5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/tailskid2.jpg)
-
Some really good details for improving this kit, Mike! Great progress and some good advice... Regards, Marc.
-
Great work on the skid Mike. As always the Aviattic Fabric looks excellent.
RAGIII
-
This is all really starting to pull together now !
Alexis
-
Those Aviatic decals look great!
I'd be interested to see a close up of the "Streaky" section.
Cheers,
Hugh
-
Those Aviatic decals look great!
I'd be interested to see a close up of the "Streaky" section.
Cheers,
Hugh
Hi Hugh,
'Aviattic' decals laid over a gloss clear coated 'Tamiya' Deck Tan (XF55) base colour,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/streaks1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/streaks2.jpg)
-
Hi all,
A few updates for the Fokker D.II build.
The pilot figure has been painted and is fitted into the cockpit.
Also the engine is now fitted.
The general weathering is a combination of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash and 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Set A (Mud).
The engine exhaust and oil erosion on the fuselage forward side panels is 'Tamiya' Flat Aluminium (X16) stipple brushed over the green.
Then the same 'Flory Models' wash dabbed into the Aluminium painted surface.
The same technique was used for the doped linen erosion on the forward streaked decal area, but for that, 'Tamiya' Deck Tan (X55) was stippled on before the 'Flory' wash was applied.
'AK Interactive' Engine Oil (2019) was brushed at the outlet of the side panels and under the forward fuselage.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/weather1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/weather2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/weather3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/weather4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/weather5.jpg)
-
Really looking great Mike. The weathering has toned down the stark look of the streak decals and makes for a much better look!
RAGIII
-
The Flory models wash really brought it to life Mike.
Looking awesome!
Cheers,
Hugh
-
Beautiful out come with the weathering Mike !
Alexis
-
Gorgeous modelling, as usual from your bench, Mike. I will follow this build with great interest.
-
Very nice and inspiring! I should get my hands on some of that Flory stuff...
/Fredrik
-
Very nice and inspiring! I should get my hands on some of that Flory stuff...
/Fredrik
Fredrik , I highly recommend it . I have been using it for about 5 years now and love it !
Alexis
-
Some really nice weathering effects there, Mike! I like the way you have treated different metal and fabric areas with appropriate weathering... I'm learning a lot... Regards, Marc.
-
Very nice and inspiring! I should get my hands on some of that Flory stuff...
/Fredrik
Hi Fredrik,
Here's an extract from my build logs explaining 'Flory Models' clay washes, which might be of help if you decide to purchase any of the washes.
--------------------------------------------
Flory Model clay washes:
The washes I tend to use are the ‘Flory Models’ Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’, which come in various shades and consist of a suspended and very fine clay pigment. They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes. When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a soft brush to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect. The kitchen roll can be used dry or very slightly dampened. If dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be more easily be removed or worked as
required.
First I seal the surface with an airbrushed semi-matte clear coat, such as ‘Alclad’ Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly. A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A more matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.
NOTE 1: The more glossy the applied sealing coat is, the more the chance there is that the applied ’Flory’ clay wash will not spread fully, but rather form puddles or beads of wash.
If this happens, add a few drops of ordinary kitchen washing up liquid to the clay wash. This will break the surface tension of the wash, allowing it spread fully.
NOTE 2: Always decant the amount of clay wash you need, rather than dipping the brush directly into the wash bottle. Dipping into the wash bottle can transfer contaminants from the brush into the wash, will can cause the wash to become thick and unusable.
NOTE 3: When a sealing coat is applied over areas treated with clay wash weathering, the
intensity of the applied wash tends to darken. This should be considered when removing the clay wash, otherwise the final effect may appear too dark.
NOTE 4: ‘Flory’ current range of washes are: Dark Dirt, Grime, Black, Light (white), Mud, Sand, Rust and Concrete. All of these washes can be mixed to create many colour shades for different weathering finishes.
To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered.
It doesn’t matter really how much is applied as it can be left on for any period, as it is easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath.
If you don't achieve your desired effect, you can wash it all off and start again.
Use a soft brush or absorbent kitchen roll, which are dry or very slightly dampened, to brush or wipe off the clay wash in the direction of airflow over the aircraft.
Even then dab them onto a dry piece of the paper, until they are almost dry. Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash.
If that happens you can re-apply the wash and start again.
f you’re not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface.
Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to 'damp' brush or wipe over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash.
It’ll dry within 30 minutes.
Then remove as much you want until you get the desired effect.
Once finished, run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally, seal the surface with airbrushed clear coat of your choice, which will seal in the applied clay wash.
------------------------------------------------------
Mike
-
Hi all,
The single ‘GasPatch’ early LMG ‘Spandau’ 08 has been fitted.
This required modification of both the gun and fuselage decking panel.
I used the 'GasPatch' ammunition belt instead of the kit supplied photo-etch part.
I also had to scratch the empty ammunition belt chute as the kit does not include the chute?
The eight 'transportation' posts have also been added to the fuselage sides and lower wings.
Now onto the struts then pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/gunon1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/gunon2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/postsdone1.jpg)
-
Hi Fredrik,
Here's an extract from my build logs explaining 'Flory Models' clay washes, which might be of help if you decide to purchase any of the washes.
[---]
Mike
Thanks so much! I'll put it on my shopping list.
/Fredrik
-
The pilot looks happier than before, Possibly because He now has that beautiful Spandau in front of him ;D Excellent detail work as always Mike!
RAGIII
-
Ooh, some lovely details there, Mike! Enjoying this so much! Marc.
-
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
Looking at photographs it's difficult to see detail for the interplane struts on this aircraft.
Some look to be of wood construction only.
Others seem to show a tubular reinforcing tube that was fitted to the leading edge of each strut with wood aerofoil struts attached to its rear edge.
Also what appears to be four 'wrappings' of either linen or metal around each strut.
Normally strut wrapping would be linen and these were used to help prevent the wood struts from splitting under stress.
Anyway, the kit 'wrappings' were over sized so I decided to modify all eight struts.
The 'wrappings' were sanded off and the leading edge tubes, which are not represented on the kit struts, were scribed.
Base coated with 'Tamiya' Deck Tan (XF78), then clear coat sealed.
The wood areas were masked off and 'Alclad' Steel (ALC112) was airbrushed over the tubes.
Clear coated again then 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash applied.
Clear coated yet again and 1 mm wide strips were applied from the ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White XPS2) set.
A final clear coat was then applied to seal everything.
The cutout in the two inboard, rear interplane struts, are to allow the wing warping control lines to route from the fuselage to the outboard struts.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/interplane.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/strutsdone.jpg)
-
Thumbs up Mike , struts look excellent :)
Alexis
-
Excellent solution to the struts Mike. They look Terrific!
RAGIII
-
That are some nice looking struts Mike.
-
Hi all,
Two of the six wing warp control lines were attached to the base of the rear interplane struts on the lower wings.
The two control lines were routed between the lower wings through twin pulleys, mounted on a support frame in front of the cockpit.
Mono-filament lone of 0.08 mm diameter and routed through 0.2 mm diameter holes above the pulleys.
'GasPatch' 1:48th One End turnbuckles fitted with 0.4 mm diameter blackened brass tube.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/pulleyframe.jpg)
-
Wonderful focus and follow through on detail Mike, it's a real pleasure to follow your progress here. No "tactical look aways" from Kit short comings and nothing but the finest solutions as always with your Builds. Nicely done!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Struts and Controls looking very good. Making notes.
Cheers,
Hugh
-
As always, excellent details Mike!
RAGIII
-
Yes, excellent details.
-
Yes, excellent details.
+1
-
Hi all,
I've finished pre-rigging stage now.
Thirty two lines with 'GasPatch' One End type turnbuckles and two with double ended Type C turnbuckles.
Also the Rudder and Elevators have their control lines fitted.
Tube used is blackened 0.5 mm and 0.4 mm diameter with 0.12 or 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament.
Now all I have to do is fit the anchor points to their various locations and the ten struts and upper wing can be fitted,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig4.jpg)
-
Excellent Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
In preparation for fitting the upper wing onto the ten struts, I've pre-rigged those wires that would be difficult to attach with the upper wing attached.
The remaining rigging can be attached afterwards and these will be:
Wing warping reaction wires with their pulley support frame
Forward flying wires
Drift wires
Landing gear bracing
Rudder and elevator control cables.
The pre-rigging is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament passed through the 'eye' of the turnbuckle, then a blackened 0.5 mm diameter tube and finally the fitted 'GasPatch' 1:48th scale anchor point.
Then both ends of the 0.08 mm line are looped back and through the 0.5 mm tube.
Both ends are pulled to draw the tube between the 'eye' of the anchor point and the turnbuckle.
Thin CA adhesive is applied to one end only of the tube and the residual 0.08 mm line tags cut away.
This method allows the rigged line to move freely and self-align and the anchor points are stronger than using twisted copper wire.
Now to fit that upper wing,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig6.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/prerig7.jpg)
-
Mike, why do you use a blackened tube between the turnbuckle and the anchorpoint? Can't you use turnbuckles with an anchorpoint? If I understand correctly the monofilament goes three times trough this tube?
-
Hi Fvdm,
I use either Brass or Nickel-Silver tube, but they look unrealistic if if left in their natural metal colour.
So I blacken them with a chemical solution ('BlackenIt), which tones down their metallic sheen.
I use 'GasPatch' metal anchor points as they are easier to work with and are stronger than the hand made twisted copper wire anchors that many modelers prefer to use.
I avoid when possible using turnbuckles with built-in anchor points as the location holes need to be drilled at the correct angle for the rigged line.
If not, then the turnbuckle (after fitting) would need to be bent to align the rigging line correctly, and this usually means the turnbuckle will snap.
Then you have the problem of the tang of the turnbuckle stuck fast in the model and a snapped rigging line that will need to be replaced.
By using a flexible mono-filament attached tube between the anchor point and the turnbuckle means the attachment is strong and the tightened rigging line will self-align.
Yes the 0.08 mm line goes through the 'eye' end of the turnbuckle, then the tube then the 'eye of the anchor point.
The two ends are looped back and go through the tube again, making three passes of the line through the tube.
The 0.5 mm diameter tube has an internal bore of 0.3 mm, so three passes of the 0.08 mm line totals 0.24 mm (0.06 mm free room).
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/TBs.jpg)
-
Mike, thanks for the clear answer and photo.
-
Looking good Mike.
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Being a wing warper as opposed to an aileron controlled aircraft, the rigging of the wing required more than usual.
A combination of flying wires, landing wires, drift wires, cross bracing wire, wing warp control cables and wing warp reaction cables.
The turnbuckles still need to be painted though.
Now onto the landing gear, rudder and elevators,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/wingsdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/wingsdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/wingsdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/wingsdone4.jpg)
-
Excellent rigging Mike! If I get one of these I can see a Lot of Drilling will be needed ;D
RAGIII
-
That is some great rigging!
-
Thanks for the eleborate explanation of this complex rigging job Mike.
It looks superb!
Willem
-
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The landing gear is finished using 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4 mm and 0.5 mm diameter blackened tube and the 'bungee' suspension (not represented in the kit) is 'EZ' stetch line washed with 'AK Interactive' Kersonene (AK2039).
The Tail skid is also finished and was constructed from micr-tunbe (kit parts too fragile) with suspension cord created using 'MFH' flexible black tube.
Now onto creating the elevator control under the fuselage (not represented in the kit) and fitting the rudder and elevators,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/geardone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/skiddone.jpg)
-
:) :) :)
Alexis
-
Hi all,
The wheels, rudder and elevator are now fitted.
Now onto representing the external elevator control cable under the fuselage, which is not represented in the kit,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/taildone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/taildone2.jpg)
-
Hi all,
The external elevator control lever and cable on the underside of the fuselage have been added.
The two slots were cut through the fuselage and a lever, made from photo-etch and 0.4 mm diameter rod, was fitted.
The control cable is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament with 0.4 mm diameter blackened tube.
The basic model is now finished so it's onto the figures and display,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/underlever.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/underlever1.jpg)
-
Your improvements reall make this one stand out Mike. excellent work as always!!
RAGIII
-
Your improvements reall make this one stand out Mike. excellent work as always!!
RAGIII
Seconds Rick comments Mike , truly fantastic results !
Alexis
-
Great work Mike!
Kent
-
The added control cables make it so much more realistic Mike.
Beautiful work!
Willem
-
Hi all,
The two mechanic figures ('Kellerkind') are finished.
One will be priming the engine cylinders whilst the other turns the propeller to position the cylinders.
That's it now until I post up the completed model display.
Thanks for all of your comments during this build - much appreciated,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/mech1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Fokker-D.II/mech2.jpg)
-
Excellent work Mike.
Cheers,
Hugh
-
The figures look nice. Maybe you can accentuate the lips a little with a darker color.
-
Yes I'll take another look before finishing the final display,
Mike
-
Excellent figure painting Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I hope to post photographs of the finished build later today in the 'Completed Models' thread,
Mike