forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => What's New => Topic started by: RAGIII on November 28, 2020, 12:30:11 AM
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Just saw this on Face Book. I don't think anyone has posted this yet?
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/CK5Gsg7J/128301438-2687171368263586-6224042693139496133-o.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTPXqcVw/127912031-2687171364930253-406178656583708892-o.jpg)
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At last it's out.
I was told about this a while ago but asked not to spread the word.
Another great release to go with their existing 1:48th scale model,
Mike
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Great addition to their fine range of kits.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Outstanding!!! ;D
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Now that is going to the top of my wishlist, very appealing indeed!
Cheers,
Dave.
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Wow, wow, wow
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I wonder if this will be injection resin or combo?
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So I wonder how much this will cost though it sure looks good.
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I wonder if this will be injection resin or combo?
I believe it'll be essentially resin with possibly some 3D printed parts.
Wingspan around 413 mm.
Release January-February, if all goes well,
Mike
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Very much expected news, like Mike I have been knowing about this planned release but I was asked to keep it secret. Now it is officially announced, and it will surely be on my bench asap, hoping the February is indeed realistic.
As for the price I suppose 500-600 PLN will be asked.
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For many years I had hoped to get this beautiful plane from Wingnut Wings as a kit.
I am not a resin fan, I also have no idea how to glue or process the material on a complete model (OK, not quite right, smaller parts or the wonderful resin engines from Taurus I have already built).
Will the wings hold, do the fuselage - and/or wings twist or bend over the years?
I don't know, I have no experience with this, but I will definitely get this model as soon as it is available.
Many thanks to Lukgraph!
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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For many years I had hoped to get this beautiful plane from Wingnut Wings as a kit.
I am not a resin fan, I also have no idea how to glue or process the material on a complete model (OK, not quite right, smaller parts or the wonderful resin engines from Taurus I have already built).
Will the wings hold, do the fuselage - and/or wings twist or bend over the years?
I don't know, I have no experience with this, but I will definitely get this model as soon as it is available.
Many thanks to Lukgraph!
Servus
Bertl
Hi Bertl,
Many modellers are put off building resin models, I think primarily because of the cost of the kits and the resin itself.
It is a different approach to modelling resin instead of the usual styrene.
Resin dust is harmful, so you need to keep your working area clean. Avoid creating resin dust.
Resin can only be built using CA adhesive (Superglue). Normal styrene cements will not work as they can't melt and weld the resin to achieve a good bond.
CA adhesive is a strong bond, but is liable to break away if the parts are subjected to shock loading.
Also CA adhesive may become brittle in time, especially if subjected to ultra-violet light for long periods.
No matter if the model is made by a small 'garage' company or a large well know company, you may find some of the following in your kit:
Resin mould 'flash' around parts, especially small or delicate parts - this has to be removed.
Fragile resin parts are very brittle and easy to break, so care must be taken when handling these parts.
The better kits have metal reinforcing inside parts, such as the wing or undercarriage struts and in the wings themselves. Sometimes these are not aligned correctly making the parts difficult to
join.
Surface imperfections, such as mould marks, air 'blow' pits or imperfect moulded parts (short shots) may be found.
Larger parts, like wings, which are usually moulded as solid parts, can be found to warped to some degree.
Mould release agent on parts is more common for resin kits than for styrene kits and this needs to be washed off.
Despite this, warped parts can be straightened and surface imperfections filled and sanded
I have read of some modellers saying that after time, their models show signs of warp etc.
Personally I have never had this on my models.
I have built several resin models:
HPH Models - Macchi M.5
Planet Models - DFW T.28 'Floh'
Lukgraph Models - Ansaldo 'Baby'
HPH Models - Aviatic 'Berg' D.1
Planet Models - Port Victoria PV.7 'Kitten'
I have found that all can be built, although some of the list above were found on some of these models.
I have also found it best to add extra or replacement rods of metal to better support large, heavier parts, such the wings.
Despite all of this, resin models can be built to a reasonable standard and they do tend to cover the more unusual subjects.
If it might help, download the detailed build logs from my site for the above aircraft (click the PDF icons).
Mike
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Hi,
Thanks for the words of experience Sandbagger Norris
I do like your Macchi M5 (wish someone would do it in plastic:)
Definitely want this one though never worked with full resin. Also heard Lukgraph are cleaning up the resin? (from their last release)
which is encouraging for the model maker.
Thanks,
Daz
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Hi Daz,
Yes, the bigger companies do take more care in the presentation and packaging of their kits.
Resin model kits from companies such as 'Lukgraph' and 'HPH Models', for example, tend to have very little flash.
Some companies, such as 'Aviattic', even go as far as to strap larger component parts, like wings, to backing boards to stop them from being damaged and to prevent warp.
Its the smaller companies with limited funds and facilities that are less likely to go the extra mile.
You'll find their kits are just bagged and therefore parts can be subjected to damage and warp.
Also its their products that tend to have poorer moulding, flash and surface imperfections.
Lastly you have the 'one man' producers, who's kits you normally wouldn't go near, but for the fact they are the only ones available for that model,
Mike
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If it is like their Baby it will be excellent. My main regret is there is No F33E.... as I really want to make SMS Wolf's Wolfchen.
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@Mike 'Sandbagger' Norris
Hello Mike,
Thank you very much for your profound explanation, your tips and hints for your resin building reports.
I will have a look at the PDF's one by one.
That will certainly help.
I know the way of production so far, also that conventional adhesives cannot be used.
But where I see problems - maybe I only "see" them and in reality there are none -, how are air 'blow' pits or bad, unsightly glue edges filled?
Which "putty" is best used for this purpose?
I have no problem to put more work into a resin kit than with a conventional model, the result must be right for me.
I am happy to invest more time in this.
I think the FF33 is such a model.
Although I would have preferred to see the "Wölfchen" version - but never mind, that's okay too.
Again, thank you very much for your explanations.
Servus
Bertl
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Hi Bertl,
Having built Lukgraph resin kits before, I don't think you'll encounter and real problems.
From my experience their moulding of resin parts are free of the surface imperfections found in other kits.
However, in the event you do find some:
Air 'blow' pits - these can be found where air bubbles in the resin burst as the resin sets and cause small holes/pits in the surface of the parts.
These usually can be filled and sanded smooth to blend with the surface of the part.
Normal modelling putty's will shrink slightly as they dry and set. For example along a join seam, where you'll see a fine crack along the joint.
Filling larger holes/pits can result in the surface of the putty sinking slightly as it sets.
This can be easily corrected by applying more putty.
However I tend to use one of two methods:
1. Model putty 'Perfect Plastic Putty' (Delux Materials) - this putty can be reactivated, even after it has dried and set, with slight moisture and can then smoothed over to refill any shrinkage.
2. CA adhesive (superglue) mixed with a small amount of talcom powder. The powder will add 'body' to the CA adhesive and stop it spreading.
This will dry and set fast and will not shrink. However, it sets hard and can prove difficult to sand away to blend it to the surface of the part, especially in areas that are difficult to access.
Warped parts can be straightened by either immersing in hot water then either pressing or manually flexing the part back into shape.
You can also use heat from a hair dryer or similar to 'relax' the resin part.
Once the part has cooled down it should retain its shape.
I haven't had a serious mis-mould (short shot) of a resin part but if I do it would depend how serious the defect was.
Small areas can be rebuilt by using two part epoxy clay, such as 'Milliput' then once set sanded to shape.
However, for large and obvious defects it would probably be best to contact the seller to arrange for a replacement part.
But as I said, knowing the quality of 'Lukgraph' models, I would doubt you would find any such problems,
Mike
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@Mike 'Sandbagger' Norris
Hello Mike,
Thank you very much for your profound explanation, your tips and hints for your resin building reports.
I will have a look at the PDF's one by one.
That will certainly help.
I know the way of production so far, also that conventional adhesives cannot be used.
But where I see problems - maybe I only "see" them and in reality there are none -, how are air 'blow' pits or bad, unsightly glue edges filled?
Which "putty" is best used for this purpose?
I have no problem to put more work into a resin kit than with a conventional model, the result must be right for me.
I am happy to invest more time in this.
I think the FF33 is such a model.
Although I would have preferred to see the "Wölfchen" version - but never mind, that's okay too.
Again, thank you very much for your explanations.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Mike is giving you some Great Tips. That being said I have seen your work and Know Your Skill Level. I am confident that you will Do a Terrific job with Resin as you have done with your Plastic builds!
RAGIII
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The work at Lukgraph on this kit is progressing well. They have just announced that the preorders will start in March.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=2743014779345911&set=a.1464998240480911
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If it is like their Baby it will be excellent. My main regret is there is No F33E.... as I really want to make SMS Wolf's Wolfchen.
I have Lukgraph's 1/48 kit and it is a thing of beauty as well as their Sopwith kits. I'm with you I was hoping for the E as well. I have wanted to build the Wolfchen since I read the book. I was hoping WNW would have done it. I have the Techmod kit and the PE set waiting in the stash. I'm sure once I start it, a 1/32 kit will be available.
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Hi all,
I looked on Facebook- and felt wow isn’t it nice to see a nice new WW1 kit! ;D
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I think there is a great variety in quality (like the difference between 50s Lindberg and Wingnuts). Their Nieuport 29 was pretty good, Sopwith Ansaldo Baby, and Aviattic Ansaldo were excellent. On the other hand I am really impressed by Mike's work on the HPH Macchi - I have that kit and have looked at how much is required to sort it and trembled.
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I think there is a great variety in quality (like the difference between 50s Lindberg and Wingnuts). Their Nieuport 29 was pretty good, Sopwith Ansaldo Baby, and Aviattic Ansaldo were excellent. On the other hand I am really impressed by Mike's work on the HPH Macchi - I have that kit and have looked at how much is required to sort it and trembled.
+1
It’d be great if someone did an injection Macchi m5, and Austrian floatplane to duel with...CSM, Roden, anyone?