forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on October 25, 2020, 03:47:05 AM
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After the finish of the last projects I tried to continue on other shelf queens, but without success. My mojo doesn't come back.
Ok. Let's try to start a new kit.
Fokker D.V, Special Hobby 1/48
I tried to search the forum for other builds, but I can't find one. The search result was flooded with Fokker D.VII because the searched D.V is a sub string and a -D.VII was ignored.
Another sacrilege: Limited edition kits are for collecting and not for building! No matter 8)
I really like the painting on the cover of the box!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BDmPTGAOHFDjZdne9c-HFkhd12c-0-T4)
On the back side of the box there are the possible markings printed in color:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mmVd61QRDQ9_zfyfyL_TEDpFEdXUVFiG)
Now the box content, as requested for a new build report.
Spue A with fuselage and some small parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1P76q1ZAgkKOejS6-R2kGCEyU22YBhZOP)
Sprue B with wings, wheels and more.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=118_NLmDBxLHY30AcwHbhfqOzA7av_7Z7)
A nice PE fret, etched by Hauler.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vToWWze0zMoiAIlQCC1kX9WXckvmmCql)
The decal sheet for the markings:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yxchMeunO8DHGnWhaMjgF9xR_pXi1Voo)
Another 3D-decal for the stitching of the fuselage. I heard this is tricky to use, but there is a spare. On top the wind hshield.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hCPShGFxoFQSvG22LxaoEQISsAFR19AA)
The manual in the usual Special Hobby style in A5 b/w format.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aa2Rj-pdcIM9SBAQA3RpP4pFkiwtdjVm)
The manual can be downloaded at cmkkits.com, with color pages for the markings. Nice service!
Here for example camo A - the one I want to build.
(https://www.cmkkits.com/res/archive/123/014179.jpg)
As usual I want to have more references for my build. There exists a Windsock Mini Datafile for this rare bird:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tRcb9tJO7oODXhDDGhUxKZkoAeL8gGd_)
Additionally I will use a Windsock International with a nice title painting by Brian Knight.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17Mp9YgxC1aLCZgxHV-dt6p72yl7pxTq6)
And why this particular kit? It's Rick's responsibility! I absolutely want to try his method of Fokker-streaks with Prussian Blue oil paint.
I hope that some of you will follow through this build.
... and yes, me and my mojo are back! More soon.
Cheers,
Frank
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I am really looking forward to this one Frank! This is one I would Love to see scaled up to 1/32nd 8)
RAGIII
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Nice subject matter Frank ! Not one I see very often built so will be tagging a long if you don't mind .
Terri
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I, too, am really looking forward to seeing this one in your hands. If this was available as a kit in 1/32, I would have one.
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I had not heard of this type before - had to look it up so another learning experience. Glad that you were able to blame Rick for this - after all we all need an excuse to start a new model!
PS Can you explain why that coin keeps changing size in the different photographs??!
Stephen.
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Ooh great Frank,
This could be right up my alley! Can’t wait to see what you do with her and the streaking!
Guy
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Great to see you and your mojo are back (I wish I was as well!)
I am sure this will be an interesting build, I have been many times a few inches from buying this kit, but looking at my stash always makes my decision to avoid another box!
;-)
Antonio
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This is a really cool subject, and I'm sure your treatment will produce a miniaturized real plane. Good luck (and lot of fun) with the building.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Welcome Rick, Terri, Ken, Stephen, Guy, Antonio and Giuseppe!
If this was available as a kit in 1/32, I would have one.
And if not, you will be able to scratch one! ;D
I had not heard of this type before
Stephen, often the same with me! The Gray/Thetford book lists 500 german types ::) Your push-pull is also listed.
Glad that you were able to blame Rick for this - after all we all need an excuse to start a new model!
You've caught me! ;)
I'm sure your treatment will produce a miniaturized real plane.
Oh, then I hope I'm able to fulfill the expectations!
Cheers,
Frank
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Wings
On Friday I started to cut the parts from sprue and cleaned them. Let's start with the wings on Saturday the first parts are airbrushed.
The first task was the removal of the ailerons as on my other birds. I primed the wings white and added the first PE parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bYJVklLtDUpH9H4PFoPAHASkHjt4Aufw)
The ailerons are glued in place and the ribs are masked for shading.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1U1WnIFGwEwYr-6aloZhOdFt6lh3JvtDA)
Here again the nice PE detail. The gap was covered with thin ply. It was not on all aircrafts done, but it is a interesting detail. And if I zoom into the crash picture of my plane, it may be there.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1modr2vIQzHsbNNuLUIDZYYAeTaouHL9m)
Shading done and unmasked:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Hgl8qTDC0ZbWnbY_txPAzZYc-8qdGiPu)
The Datafile talks about linen or light blue on lower wing surfaces. I decided to use Drooling Bulldog "Pale Blue".
Sorry, the colors of the next two pictures are not matching the model ones.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dK_YHbxy3DTalgSPrv1QGv_DEd-nGgIZ)
The upper surfaces are painted with Gunze flat linen, as base for the oil paint.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xzxibqyqbOYczY84moteZtnm18YYZWS2)
Mikael Carlsson has a very nice streaking on his Fokker Dr.I and this I wanted to replicate.
(https://www.bundesheer.at/archiv/a2011/airpower11/galerie/vollbild/20110702_123317.jpg)
Source:bundesheer.at
Finally on Sunday I played with oil paints.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=194ZAmLbVAQQS3NzbGfqXGNisjBy8o6Mr)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YKwtfhIrXcRkSTjTygMQU5hTD2P4VDKk)
What do you think?
Cheers,
Frank
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I think it looks Fabulous Frank! I love the subtle worn look as well.
RAGIII
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Very nicely done Frank.
Cheers,
Gary
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Are you in a competition with Rick to see who can replicate the streaking the best? That is as good as any I have seen. (So another modeller to whom in future I can send my Fokker if I build one that has the streaky finish!)
Stephen.
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Thank you my friends!
There is a colored drawing on the backside of my Fokker, and it shows a heavy streaking on the wings. Especially where later the crosses are, with only a white border. I think the white field was over painted. So I tried to keep more there, and the are other areas where the paint is nearly completely removed. The right aileron looks like replaced on crash picture and drawing, because is has nearly no streaks.
The biggest difficulty is to show the difference between full color and almost completely dry brush but getting still streaks. The brush was in real 8cm wide (see the width of the stripes on fuselage sides on Mikaels Fokker above) which is 1.7mm in 1/48. I found a small flat brush.
Another problem will be to find a paint for the airbrush for cowling and panels, which matches the oil paint in color. ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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Nothing wrong with that all Frank , streaking turned out awesome actually . :)
Terri
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Oberursel U.I
This Fokker needs an Oberursel U.I with 100 hp. Luckily this type of rotary engine is available from Small Stuff and I had it in my stash.
It needs 46 parts. Some spare parts are also included. Yesterday I mounted already the cylinders to the crankcase.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gMp_CQJyHBhfdAr6AHLZYtDOOxsikqEz)
Now all parts are painted with different Alclads.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1c8o1-jsiPPrk3jSZp1adMBYnA-XRLKcu)
The rotary engine again alone. I used Dark aluminum, Exhaust Manifold on the heads, Hot metal sepia.
As little joke I used on one cylinder hot metal blue. It was replaced or running hotter ;D
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LpOV94tDKExHdfCcpIOL12Ub6aI9xdPa)
To insert the small "brass" bushes I use a 0.2mm drill instead of the provided tool.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1K6EuAqfFAi4qJdnJXgcc4VWzCJEmUcfV)
The finished engine from the back. I added thin copper wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BJjwOeFHoYsjkJuQWcDLuwh9H5LUc-Rr)
And the front view in artificial light. It is very early so dark now :(
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CZfhXthc6k0n88dx4TPGfg_Id-7yWLOE)
The whole action here included painting, mounting and weathering with oil paint took 2 hours 40 minutes. This was not my first engine made by Small Stuff 8)
Again a important step done in this build.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
That's a very realistic looking Oberursel. I can almost smell the burnt castor oil.
Kevin
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I can think of No One that paints and details rotary engines better than you Frank! This one as always is outstanding!!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work Frank, those Small Stuff engines are exquisite items.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Vrooom! But in my head aircraft engines don't really make that kind of sound... Anyway, great looking build so far and the engine is outstanding!
/Fredrik
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Gorgeous streaking and engine, Frank.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Nice subject Frank.... and nice progress with it.
I have a soft spot for these lesser known types and can't wait to see it finished.
Sandy
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A fine looking engine, Frank.
If only Small Stuff made big stuff... :'(
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Thank you all for your nice words!
I can almost smell the burnt castor oil.
Kevin, the smell of the oil paints on my bench is a bit different.
Would using the correct smell put model making on a new level? ;)
I can think of No One that paints and details rotary engines better than you Frank!
Rick, what a compliment! Now I have to ask Dave W to add a red face smiley to the editor, because I have one now.
Beautiful work Frank, those Small Stuff engines are exquisite items.
Oh yes Dave! I only have the strong wish to get the Gnome N and the Bentley B.R.2 added to the line. I asked already and he do not refuse the idea, so I have some hope. For now I have enough kits to build using types which are available.
Vrooom! But in my head aircraft engines don't really make that kind of sound...
Fredrik, I can really confirm that the engine is not running. ???
Not yet. 8)
Gorgeous streaking and engine, Frank.
Giuseppe, I hope I'm able to replicate this on the fuselage, but for that I have to do the cockpit first.
I have a soft spot for these lesser known types and can't wait to see it finished.
Sandy, even though this type is rare, I can't believe that this is the first build of this type in the forum!
If only Small Stuff made big stuff... :'(
Ken, for Eugeny it is big stuff, since he is addicted to 1/72. That's why those engine are available in 1/72 too (if I remeber right at first in this scale).
Cheers,
Frank
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Catching up Frank. That engine just needs oil and fuel and a generator to get it going - I can small the burnt oil!
Small Stuff engines really are excellent - as good as the WNW accessory kits.
Stephen.
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Thank you Stephen!
Tail plane
At first an addition to the last update. I forgot to show the kit engine, in case someone wants to build this kit out of the box.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mEiptP89D0rPiZHsSwzTIt_5bk-nXKfo)
As next I thought about mounting of tail plane. I created two holders made from nickel silver and brass sleeves.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TZWrSyNnaQLbHD-fE3HMZmvd_G1WHIHK)
Instead of a thick plastic axle between both tail plane halves I used 0.6mm nickel silver wire. I made one piece control horns with a hole in the middle (instead of the four from kit PE horns) and soldered them to the new axle.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13tDJdYuuo5XuTPfsKIW0Kn7xOBGeA1Ix)
Later I need only two thin cuts in the end of the fuselage and can glue the unit in.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16lcF4jzOgpp2N1V7uvGt9ETeKNTavBZ6)
Cheers,
Frank
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More incredible micro-detail Frank!
Stephen.
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More incredible micro-detail Frank!
Stephen.
I agree 100%
RAGIII
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There you go with that big Euro cent coin again!
Your details are exceptional, Frank, Bravo!
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Wonderful detail work as with all of your projects Frank, and that engine is sheer magic! It's a pleasure to follow your progress and so many things to learn!
Cheers,
Lance
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Awesome work on the tail Frank :)
Terri
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Stunning, as always! It's always nice to see what you have done and how you've solved things.
/Fredrik
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Thank you all for your kind comments!
After a stroke of fate (hopefully the year 2020 will be over soon!) I tried to distract myself a little by continuing to build on the Fokker.
Air screw
As usual for that time there were different air screw types mounted to the Fokker D.V
Some are very comparable to types I created already but some pictures shows a Garuda. Due to the wide blades those are looking interesting and since there is no air screw shown on my Fokker on the two known crash pictures I will go with that.
As additional references I used the "Fokker Eindecker Compendium 1" (great book!) and the book "German Propeller Makers of WWI: Part One", which includes Garuda. The shape is really complicated so my first try failed. This is the second one.
Front view. I used very wide veneer strips so the grain goes straight through.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ggsz2H_Lm6bF7LyS_OXE5KKVMxEbW4x_)
The back view:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eCRFlC3eixccQ5fERVmIjK-XqwxVMYZQ)
And the interesting side view. It shows a thicker wood on the back side but thinner at hub.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nZjmvlKEAC2RS9NNHa3vVdbM65RXiX5r)
Dry fitting with cowling and spinner.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1whglD2NnHKzJ68UCINeK9460s5_60QiR)
The painted airscrew together with the mentioned failed one and the kit propeller.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZG6JMml17-DLOS0TKdWX4AJUGvZ_LCm3)
Not my best to date, but I will use it. The shape of the Garuda is really difficult.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful work Frank, that's an incredible improvement and well worth the effort,
Cheers,
Dave.
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Well , that's a 1000 times better then what my hands would be able to carve up , well done Frank :)
Terri
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Your propeller is great, and of the correct shape. I like it.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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That is one lovely propeller! Well done! Marc.
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Beautifully done Frank, that shape would be a real challenge with the varied thickness. Very impressive!
Cheers,
Lance
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As the others have said, great work on the prop. Nice to include the thickness detail.
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Thank you all!
Beautiful work Frank, that's an incredible improvement and well worth the effort,
Thank you Dave, most of the effort was the need of a second one ::)
Well , that's a 1000 times better then what my hands would be able to carve up , well done Frank :)
Terri, one day you will also carve your first wooden airscrew, I'm sure!
Your propeller is great, and of the correct shape. I like it.
Giuseppe, some pictures in the Mini Datafile shows machines with that type of airscrew, and the outer part shows mostly straight lines between the layers. I tried to get this lines, but I should have used more layers.
That is one lovely propeller! Well done!
Yes Marc, I want to have this lovely type in my cabinet!
Beautifully done Frank, that shape would be a real challenge with the varied thickness. Very impressive!
Lance, since I know you also carve your own airscrews your words are even more meaningful for me.
As the others have said, great work on the prop. Nice to include the thickness detail.
Ken, the reduction of inner thickness is needed to get the right outer shape.
The next detail follows soon :)
Cheers,
Frank
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Seat
Of course there is a seat in the kit, but if I look on the reference pictures, there is a big difference. The seat looks very special for a specific reason.
The rotary with 100 h.p. was not very powerful for its time, so the Fokker designers tried all to save weight. The fuselage structure looks very fragile and so also the seat.
It is may be a bit too much work for a detail mostly hidden later, but I wanted to try also the Connecto crosses by Albion Alloy (https://www.albionhobbies.com/product-ranges/connecto/) and want to use the seat as prototype for a bigger project. Stephen always try to convince me to do a scratch project and at least I have an idea now.
The pipes are 0.6mm brass, on the front the Connecto crosses are used.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HYyaYmqQoMxmJX4_7phnpjuBClgGzyuP)
The frame is completed with soldering.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1197v-LljmCem7VlsVljG4OAhufSHmk2k)
The seat is plugged to the side frames with thin pins. The floor is replaced by a thin layer birch wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=187ZS_mkjouIJ3llRU-ujJlZdlHweNiip)
Also for the seat I glued two layers birch veneer and sanded it very thin.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kh3fXFYxW6gCocZ6IVqZwLQQPPqkg2lg)
Tinned in comparison to the kit seat:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qpk78W4ImxxaLeYN7Vq-KDKnAdXQXjv2)
After painting the kit frame grey green and the seat black (I know, normally only moving parts black, but the seat frame looks very dark on the photos) I mounted it. The back of the seat is a left over from HGW seat belts - a piece of linen.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rddEEBr0N6oveI-7erMEcgOAUj-ecf73)
I removed some kit details, which where not on the pictures, so I have to add some again. Here a switch on a PE rest and a switch in brass (PE from Parts).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Kj-T5pyRhHjcFHizt68bMmkpsREyQWbe)
The frame fits in the fuselage halves.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1em01lbDncSWV7cphuiM76NM9747amAvv)
Now I have to add the rest of the cockpit details.
Cheers,
Frank
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Incredible micro soldering Frank!
Guy
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Nice work, as always, Frank. I think the connectors would be very handy to use. Thanks for showing us about them.
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Thank you Guy and Ken!
Incredible micro soldering Frank!
Now it gets even better!
Axle
Today I took a closer look at the photos while having a coffee, among other things a large-sized picture of the front. I noticed the suspension in detail. The people at Fokker welded small cross tubes on the axle and small limiting plates on the sides to prevent the rubbers from slipping. How should I mount it durable? It falls apart again when I solder it! ???
So I remembered my equipment for brazing with silver solder (a paste with flux, 610°C). Careful, the burner reaches 1300°C!
With this I brazed 0.6mm brass pieces to the axle of 1.0mm piano wire.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uxIVrdEjFFAB4DVaQJAiISgw8GhuVLXY)
This was easy because the axis lies flat on the pieces.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1a1q0Zbxs0v1PrhLV3I4q0kZMhrSKXJIS)
Then I could solder small pieces of thin brass sheet metal on the side with an electric soldering iron without endangering the other connection. I then filed the sheets into shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ywwJ0HRSs9uBc8WI2wPtVjIuwxLz_2_X)
This is how the struts of the kit will look like. If I get caught, I will exchange them as well. 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1O4PNuoV4B75WHeGj8QvjVI8kyKKiSPHy)
Actually I wanted to continue building the cockpit to be able to close the fuselage. But I really wanted to see if the idea works and I could get the axle done with brazing.
I love this feeling of happiness when it works! :)
Ok, I built also a pump for the cockpit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kQGpW0gbxfzokN-Lzqb3dPO37GJO51u_)
Cheers,
Frank
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Wonderful detail work again Frank,thanks for the new update.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Now that is some really nice work on the seat and the axle Frank , does the hand pump work ? ;)
Terri
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As always the details are Superb Frank! Prop, seat, gear, and Pump look Fantastic!
RAGIII
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Thank you Dave, Terri and Rick!
does the hand pump work ?
Of course, what did you think? ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
I am sorry not to have commented recently, but as I explained to Lance, things have been rather stressful over the last few days. What a pleasure it is to see the work of a master model maker in progress: the seat and floor, propellor and pump are as always, works of art in their own right.
Stephen.
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Thanks Stephen, but no need to apologize!
Cockpit
To be able to close the fuselage I continued to work on the cockpit parts.
The mostly self made stick and rudder pedal.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zMo46YYBjagXku52HRjdI1Hd2EvoKa6R)
A better viewing angle
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19TLUkxjPLBGfi4I6U5t8NNwIQ-V0u7gW)
Rigging added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1n037reF0NqyGmhnWPo5dLF8aSiZcsWXM)
According to the original pictures I formed some alu plates.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1S69nmz9pQnH13gSK6mQCzMqv0cxB9v2U)
After painting control stick and rudder bar all parts are mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TgFJeaxYo69CxRghjSkEJA4JWjovcuhU)
And again in a side view.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11E9Mb4_3jMFxRmkrLrzCuPtC2f6dgl9V)
The seat belts from HGW/Eduard are in place. A light washing with oils are also done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=180UotjBX6Ic5-P9W7RaAVM-2UyjYyR3z)
A dry fitting shows, that some of the created details are visible later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10ihlgg5MyikjGLxoeJ_bIJ1xQxE4srdr)
Ok, the original pictures shows even more details, but enough is enough.
The cockpit is mounted into one halve.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UGutau3Bu-vB-Kejbyj6Y_UidZJ-IgFv)
Last check: Anything forgotten? Control wires! Added some.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AqC_C_7lvI9LnwunNt6XE87CElFIVzku)
Fuselage is finally closed and drying now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fIgijhxCSpgGRQvNUp4jrS9vSGISFYtP)
Again a big step done.
Cheers,
Frank
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Superb cockpit Frank, really looks terrific.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Great work on the cockpit! It's a pity though that so much of it is hidden now the fuselage halves are closed.
Willem
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Excellent work Frank :)
Terri
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Exceptional Frank, just great work and a beautiful result! Don't ever lose or compromise those wonderfully high standards of yours!
Cheers,
Lance
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“the original pictures shows even more details, but enough is enough.”
Honestly Frank, this lazy laissez-faire approach to modelling is indicative of the low standards of modern society ;D
Apart from that, it’s fabulous!
Guy
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Great office for the pilot, Frank. The Fokker D. V is a really pretty aircraft, i am keen on seing it finished by your magical hands.
Andreas
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Such a shame that all of that detail is being largely hidden forever. At least you have the photos to show that it is there.
Stephen.
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Great work, Frank! And lots is now hidden... but we know it's there! Lovely to watch and experience.... Regards, Marc.
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Thank you Dave, Willem, Terri, Lance, Guy, Andreas, Stephen and Marc fro your kind words!
Don't ever lose or compromise those wonderfully high standards of yours!
Oh Lance, you are right - I should stick to my principle to do as much as possible.
Honestly Frank, this lazy laissez-faire approach to modelling is indicative of the low standards of modern society ;D
Now it becomes philosophical - but you are right!
With good light most of the details can be seen with naked eye through the cockpit opening, only with a camera lens it is hard to capture.
The Fokker D. V is a really pretty aircraft, i am keen on seing it finished by your magical hands.
With a bit luck I'm able to finish it this year as model number 8. I will start to spray the primer to the fuselage soon.
The cowling is again a tricky part, very tight fit as usual.
Cheers,
Frank
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Great work on your cockpit, I'm always amazed by tiny soldered joints in your builds and the overall look is highly realistic.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Gorgeous build, Frank. Your every touch improves the crude kit to a spectacular level. I am watching with pleasure and interest.
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Simply Fantastic Modeling as always Frank! I Love your Details!
RAGIII
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Thank you for your kind comments!
Your every touch improves the crude kit to a spectacular level.
Hmm, crude sounds hard ;) I like the Special Hobby kits as the deliver a good base. Due to the short run some parts needs more attention, but I was satisfied with the final result of my built SH kits.
Cheers,
Frank
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That is once again stunning work, Frank! I would never be able to do that fine and beautiful soldering... the neat and stunning cockpit detail is quite amazing... Looking forward to more!
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Thank you, more details are coming now!
Metal parts
My first idea was to prime the fuselage - but stop, some preparation needs to be done before!
I turned and milled small brass parts, a bearing for rotary engine and airscrew and replaced a small plastic piece by a real brass fuel cap.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lGH8NKJU1HGrOrUmVzA1mqmqUiMWGtEZ)
The are already holes for both, but I think I need to move the filler out of the middle to avoid a conflict with the gun.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WQxpwz6IOPYwTeHk6wnD6QsfDUIrKy7A)
The struts are thin, fragile, round and would need a lot of cleaning. The photos of the fuselage structure shows streamlined struts, so I squeezed 0.7mm brass and soldered the N-struts in a crazy construction.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DihXrfKoeyE4MCW_sINd82Kdj3WCJrKC)
The struts:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19GkIo9o5v2GkfCNNlt9yb-BsRRnlu7y0)
Fits as expected, as I put the pins in the same distance into the wood before.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17_Sp82OmHLH3E3fUkJaNaPfIRsjFF3d1)
The two struts are so robust that they can hold the wing even without the rear struts! On the left there is one kit strut.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wUIOY9zjTAUn_n6hRIiEUqURHr3mm_y8)
The rear struts are a single piece of squeezed pipe, but I can set the angle of the top wing with the length of the struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ott9Ml2LF3OHrLD-UwSH3Qv_OXfLnzA8)
I added also pins to the landing gear.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UhZHmhurmj0UHjqr0bpfjAxEA7HB7cG4)
The springs needs to be added after painting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rSXYzUTJSZHDjNvvzwHb9onSX0gR5ros)
Before painting the fuselage I also have to match the armament.
The LMG of the kit lacked details (right bottom). Trainers war often without a gun or with older Spandaus, but I had trouble to fit a early Spandau from Gaspatch in. "My" machine was in marine usage, so I assumed the used a normal 08/15. From my Siemens-Schuckert build I have some left over of a Eduard set 648177.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1A7SGPfDE_7XhReYKaDViwnQbRaucAXYJ)
I cut the closed barrel of, plugged one of the build master barrel sets (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10717.msg208272#msg208272) on and manipulated the fuselage until it fits.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SiPGHSxXySAb5daXpJAlZJ260FujmCzI)
Here the back part is complete: 3 resin and 7 PE parts!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dbtVahLNh9ZHIG-cywBIi-hJOc_034dc)
Painted with Alclad steel, followed by a thin layer Alclad gun metal and a dry brushing. Finally glued the barrel with jacket in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vGA6rqW-VXzc5AMbh-d8R_M3jm8qrdn8)
This fits now and can be stored safely for mounting after the paint job.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16nCHxlmFHt1rT08zfU9ZIdbYmQpfTtzb)
A good preparation works makes the later steps much easier.
Cheers,
Frank
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WOW Frank! Amazing work with the struts and MG, not to mention how great the gear looks 8) Awesome work as always!
RAGIII
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Really nice work on the details Frank :)
Terri
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Quite amazing and beautiful metal work, Frank... and a masterclass on the machine gun detailing! Thank you, Marc.
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Thank you all!
a masterclass on the machine gun detailing!
I have to thank Master for the barrel and cooling jacket set and Eduard for the back part, this was out of the box work. Ok, not the kit but out of the accessory boxes ;)
In 1/32 Master offers 3 sets which includes also the back part of the guns, but not in 1/48.
Cheers,
Frank
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Stunning metalwork Frank!
Ciao
Giuseppe
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The watchmaker at his best! A stunning progress on this rarely seen beauty.
Andreas
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The watchmaker at his best! A stunning progress on this rarely seen beauty.
Andreas
I completely agree with Andreas: as always your work is stunning.
Stephen.
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Thank you Giuseppe, Andreas and Stephen for looking over my shoulder!
Streaking
During a search for the Fokker D.V I found a very interesting article about restoring the geometry of this Fokker using the 3D modeling open source software Blender. Since Blender allows camera positions etc (it can also render movies) it is possible to check the computer model against existing photos.
The existing drawings by Ian Stair in the Mini Datafile are from 1997, where we can't even dream about such powerful computer and software! So I am and was always impressed about the ability to trace down such drawing only from photos in a manual way.
Mr. Witold find out, that the real Fokker has a shorter wingspan, and other details. That the wheels are to small I noticed already before (and replaced them) by viewing the pictures. Here it is:
https://airplanes3d.wordpress.com/2019/04/27/recreating-geometry-of-a-forgotten-wwi-fighter/
For my build it is a bit late, it would require a heavily modification of the wings with ribs and so on, and I have already painted them. I think it will look like a Fokker D.V also without the fix ;)
I worked also on the model. A missing thing was the tail framing to hold the skid and rudder.
I tried to replicate it from 0.6mm brass micro tube with respecting drawing and pictures. I run into trouble with size, angles, conflict with rudder horns etc.
Later I realized, that the tail construction looks very similar to a Fokker Eindecker, so I had also a look into the Fokker Eindecker Compendium 1+2. This was very helpful!
Now it is not completely correct, but a good compromise between reality and kit parts I hope! I used again a Connecto cross for the connection.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Q3CNI10q61SS39mUqvt6D2i-8UQ19r7d)
The skid is made from wood and has a metal end on the ground.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Wksb3uj_Ti38lP9mwRnHxgJANSP9uA0e)
All the metal parts tinned.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TIU9THUqgqyYqxjryVJ7C9CUM4FcBKkx)
The fuselage is primed and I wanted to use the 3D decals provided (in double amount) by the kit. But I failed to use them. They are to be applied as normal decal, and later, after drying, the upper clear film should be peeled off. But it works for me only on parts of the decals. The upper foil is to sticky and parts of the decals peeled of from the model with it. Then I try to secure it there with clear coat, but the Gunze one dissolve the decal.
At the end I applied Eduard stitching PE. That is also 3D ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qPMx3rtL6OIkVWe6EdjsOyKtodkcEenV)
The kit provides also some nice steps with rings. The steps are mounted on both sides to the steel frame and the canvas has some rings at that position to be able to put it over the steps.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nKkmrojGnK8AzjV1KYEONDBI_HVFRlYO)
After pale blue on lower surfaces ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JylRyV4TBHHEp30uw4LtTGsUUFv16dfI)
... I masked and applied linen color on top.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Yp2F57lT4643_7CECjI4kHymQA96IONi)
And finally I have applied the streaks with oils.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1W4OZp1roO8fMgBJfFCKIDNOEhtMyxujg)
A rotatable paint stand is helpful.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=180U3V4C6JlH84V22a1yH7vKIol_g5uSp)
After seeing the pictures here I think I will remove a bit more paint.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1598QGCS4gqo9G8INW9QcuKKitMA9Zalo)
Now some days for hardening.
Cheers,
Frank
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I think you are doing a splendid job Frank, it looks beautiful and I love the color scheme!
And thank you for the link to that very interesting article!
Maybe I should drop mr. Jaworski a line and ask if he can do the same with the HP V/1500 ;)
Willem
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Great progress and paint job on the fuselage and the fin, Frank. I hopefully will see that one finished at FFB when this mad times get better....
Andreas
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Great build Frank. I can learn a lot from this and I think the streaking looks real nice.
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Thank you all!
As written above after seeing the pictures I don't like the result. Now the streaking is more finer, after I removed more paint and made a finer structure, especially in the areas with less paint.
I will try to make pictures in daylight tomorrow.
When the oil paint is oxidized, I will add clear coat for the decals. I am very curious about the look with the white "X", the crosses and markings!
Cheers,
Frank
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The detail work is spectacular Frank. As for the streaking, I liked your first effort so I am really looking forward to the second version!
RAGIII
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Looks good Frank , looking forward on seeing the final results on how the effect turned out .
Terri
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Final streaking
Okay Rick and Terri, if you are waiting so impatiently ;) , this is the final version:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10-JeRX4CKCM-j9OGnFVMt38h32hXFSgl)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gX9knnxLD2vjowxOX3ShHsUHnwg1lJga)
During the hardening time I thinned the cowling, because it was very thick. I would be possible to fit the engine, but at the end the two parts (because of the lower cut outs) separates again.
So I started the lathe!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Hy3QUBWOJYkm5kBXRvxUIs7EhaiTgTtr)
This time I used brass because it is easier to work with and it is not easy to apply paint to aluminum.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AyLnh0fDGuGTFi_Km32PoOeIm2lmsD02)
The rotary has enough space now. The linked article above say 107cm diameter, +/-1cm. So I used 108cm which is 22.5mm in 1/48. The wall thickness is 0.4mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q4UX0JyE9JR3LgdK_fHeiqz17N-1UKKG)
Now I need to mill the lower cutouts and I have also an idea for safe mounting :)
Cheers,
Frank
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The streaking is indeed even better 8) The Cowling is your Usual Magic!!
RAGIII
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The streaking is indeed even better 8) The Cowling is your Usual Magic!!
RAGIII
Hard to argue with that , well done Frank ! :)
Terri
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The cowling looks fabulous Frank!
This is a still from "War machines" on Discovery of how they hammered the engine cowling of German (don't know which) WWII aircraft.
Very labor intensive...
(https://i.postimg.cc/1fqvNTQn/Cowling.png) (https://postimg.cc/1fqvNTQn)
Willem
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Thank you Rick, Terri and Willem!
Willem, you are right, the best would be to peen a cowling, but I don't know how to do this in this small scale. The way with a lathe creates a lot of waste, but works ;)
Cowling
As planned I milled the cutouts on a dividing header.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hfefTUsLsS-0m3CojG2bzqtwgVxTWRuY)
I polished the cowling and since it is a bit on the heavy side, I soldered thin brass wires in for an easier mounting, but at the end it doesn't work as expected.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1INf4srhjHIcxqJs53PnNvzH-IfPsn_3I)
The tinned cowling prepared to be painted dark green with the rest of the metal panels of the fuselage. But I need to wait for the hardening of the oil paint before.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Po-tCcaGhRZvwyiPww09D8ue-MoUEWXd)
Cheers,
Frank
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That is truly Stunning Frank!
RAGIII
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WOW, Frank! What skilled craftmanship and artistry!
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As always when you produce things on your lathe, I feel like adding one to my Christmas wishlist! Truly stunning work!
/Fredrik
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Your metalwork is just out of this world Frank. You manage to add such fine details to your models in this way.
Stephen.
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Your streaking looks great, Frank. Just like the box top art.
When you turned the inside of the cowling, how did you determine the radius of the front rounded part?
Did you turn the whole cowling with just one lathe setup?
What is the outside diameter of your cowling?
Your cowling looks great. I haven't made a cowling from brass but getting the thickness to 0.4mm is an accomplishment. Bravo.
To mount my cowlings, I remake the firewall by machining a sheet of styrene with a step that fits within the inside edge of the cowling. This works well in 1/32 scale.
I hope you will excuse all the questions, but I try to learn from other's experiences.
Again, great job on the cowling!
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Thank you Rick, Richard, Fredrik, Stephen and Ken! Your comments are highly appreciated!
As always when you produce things on your lathe, I feel like adding one to my Christmas wishlist!
It is a nice tool, but really not a toy! Such beast can really be dangerous and the possible forces should not be underestimated. One example is to forget the chuck key and switch on - that wrench will fly away with high speed! Luckily my lathe has a security mechanism against this particular mistake.
That is also not a cheap toy, not only the lathe itself but you will need also many accessories. May be for our purpose a watchmaker lathe is an option, but it you find a good one with accessories on ebay the price is going crazy.
Your streaking looks great, Frank. Just like the box top art.
Thanks, that was the intention.
The only bad thing is, that the color is not completely the same as the wings done weeks ago. I was impatient, but this should be done in one go.
When you turned the inside of the cowling, how did you determine the radius of the front rounded part?
The is the most tricky part of the game!
I made only another complete cowling for my Nieuport "Flyboys" (in alu that time), and if you want to much, you have two rings instead of one cowling ::) Made the experience in that project. So only slow approach, measure and feel with the finger helps. At first I have done the outer diameter, then the inner radius.
Yesterday I thought about grinding a HSS turning tools into shape, but I never grind a HSS tool.
EDIT: I should mention, that I made the spinner of the Deperdussin Monocoque also to thin so it cracked. I rescued the part with soldering the crack.
Did you turn the whole cowling with just one lathe setup?
Yes, for two reasons: First, I have learned that you should not wrap around a part if it can be avoided. And my three-jaw chuck is too big (or the cowling too small), so I can't clamp from the inside.
At first face turning, the outer diameter.
Next I drilled with 10mm (my biggest drill), enhancing to 14mm with a inside turning steel (front opening later 15mm).
Then I cut from the side to a 15,5mm diameter, them enhanced the cut to the right side to get the front radius.
Enhanced the inside diameter in the straight part, create a thin wall.
Then the tricky inside front radius.
Enhanced the inner diameter to 15mm at the front.
Finally cut from the side at the front until it separates.
What is the outside diameter of your cowling?
After final polishing 22,45mm
I haven't made a cowling from brass but getting the thickness to 0.4mm is an accomplishment.
The Nieuport alu cowling was comparable in that point. I only had the material problem, no paint sticks to it, and the CA-glue does not hold well either.
At the model exhibition here some guys always sell "Aluminium bowl for superglue, easy to clean" ;)
If a cowling was made of alu on an aircraft and don't need to be painted, I will use alu again.
To mount my cowlings, I remake the firewall by machining a sheet of styrene with a step that fits within the inside edge of the cowling.
I had the same idea, but I thought about a small ring due to limited space. The outer ring diameter should have a tight fit into the cowling. The brass one is much heavier compared to my previous alu one!
I hope you will excuse all the questions, but I try to learn from other's experiences.
No problem, I tried to answer. But I'm still a beginner, may be an experienced lathe worker would do this differently ???
Cheers,
Frank
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Great craftsmanship Frank and thanks for the how to. I only wonder why and you tinned the cowling?
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Thx!
Sometimes I have problems with adhesion of paint on metal parts or have some scratches (wanted or unwanted). In this case you will not see the bright yellow brass, which is unrealistic for our models but some more normal metal color.
Cheers,
Frank
PS: Ken, the ring method to mount the cowling works 8)
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Decals
After the hardening of the oils I added a layer of clear coat for decals and to protect the thin oil layer.
For mounting of the cowling I made a ring as suggested by Ken. At first make sure it has a tight fit (outer diameter), the I removed the inner part.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1V5Nlztw2NOy4nJFdirWAdjwsTa8L55g5)
I glued the ring with cowling plugged on in place and tried with engine, it is able to rotate freely. Then I masked all metal panels and sprayed Alclad Dark aluminum.
On top of that a layer of a Gunze dark green. I decided for H302 because it has light grey touch, may be also from the alu below, so it looks like the cover picture of the kit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lv9OAIcmXhUi5xGpo1K28U1hhfCIMGWJ)
After a drying I added the decals, here on one side of the fuselage, ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18vzIo_nH2CmJ2GiksiPna-IIZGN-MMhM)
... and the other side with the other parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mySQh5roe0-HaGbwJS3AbpiQwnEcYc4X)
Cheers,
Frank
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Looking superb, Frank! Lovely colours and looking very authentic... Regards, Marc.
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There is something about adding the markings that Pulls it all together! This one is No Exception. Beautiful results and the Markings enhance the streaking!
RAGIII
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Have to agree with Rick , adding the markings really pulls it all together :)
Terri
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Very nice work Frank.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thank you Marc, Rick, Terri and Gary! It's good to know you're behind me when I fall ...
There is something about adding the markings that Pulls it all together!
The colors and markings are the reason, why I started to build those old struts 8)
So this is an exciting moment when many prepared assemblies merge into something special!
So extra for you my friends a teaser (some things are glued, some only plugged on) how this bird will look like hopefully soon:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ndL9c8oQNqEJM4QMH1JzlrD01iIiZ6IL)
The plugged on cowling holds without glue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1t_waOOqgrha4wsWs9juCbGWXA44E5jmK)
I have some trouble with the position of the steps on the sides - I used the kit provided recesses, which turns out as a bad idea. No chance to move them now without repainting ... :-\ ???
Cheers,
Frank
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Great progress, it justblooks amazing!
Andreas
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I'm wishing a 1/32 scale kit was available.
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I'm wishing a 1/32 scale kit was available.
Me too! Franks work is quite inspiring to say the least!
RAGIII
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Thank you Andreas, Ken and Rick!
quite inspiring to say the least!
I find this type very interesting, because it shows properties of the older and of more modern Fokker types, so it is somehow a bridge.
Struts
The struts of the kit are 26mm long, which is exact the distance between lower and upper wing. Since the struts are also at an angle, they are likely to be too short.
The "wood" on the kit struts is the same length as the struts, this seems to be a tribute to technology as in real life the wood is much shorter. Looks interesting, but would make the plastic struts unstable. In short, there are a few reasons to try it myself.
My struts are made from 0.7mm brass micro tubing and real wood, of course with a hollow.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jsoSBb9JJ7vKr31ooatPT2Z9lG51dA4c)
With 0.5mm brass and holes in the wings the struts are able to hold the wings without glue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NemtCMt-Qz7tRWJfNsLm094lmtSb8vpi)
Tried different things for the safety bands. I was not able to glue thin alu strips cleanly, so finally I used 0.4mm masking tape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UqIpih4EmiNacEKHMIgxhpRLID_ZKv8e)
Secured with Gunze Metal primer.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15nGnG5PXkWAGfxnTS0PjBxxfCYXJmmBb)
For the rudder I made a "one piece" control horn.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i_tzm9YGvslRslDhSJAkU3hzh1UpeP4u)
So the rudder could be mounted, interesting construction!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EmGvKZkIR60SuDQ_Z7MX5kkjuUb45sGi)
The next task are the control wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_9PZfaMBVSc5mEM1ORMwLNPgCcxJ4nld)
And in full view:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bndurugSt7kvl45J9UH_JR5nLQ_eO1QQ)
Cheers,
Frank
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Nice work on the struts Frank and the tail unit . If you are looking for thin foil for doing bands around struts . Alum foil ( use for covering while baking stuff ) . You can get it in different thickness .
Terri
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This is all coming together very well, Frank. Looks superb.
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Thank you Terri and Ken!
If you are looking for thin foil for doing bands around struts . Alum foil ( use for covering while baking stuff ) . You can get it in different thickness.
As you can see on one of the pics I tried thin alum sheet, but this was to thick. I used also kitchen foil, but I was not able to cut uniform 0.4mm stripes. It also curled at the edge when cut - I need a thicker one for next time.
I also tried Bare Metal Foil, but it was also not easy to cut so small and do not want to hold on the wood.
Looks superb.
And now I'm a little upset. I really like Alclad's metallic paints and primers, and have now used the clear coat to protect the decals. What a disaster! The stuff is still sticky after days and so dust and lint stuck on it. Can't touch the fuselage for mounting.
Cleaning is also not possible with endanger painting and decals >:(
Luckily I have not sprayed it to all surfaces.
Cheers,
Frank
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Sorry to hear about the clear coat issue Frank. I am sure you will get it sorted out eventually. On the plus side the Struts are Amazing to say the least!
RAGIII
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Frank,
Alclad Clear Coat is a wonderful product .......... when it works! Unfortunately I finally abandoned it as it did the same on some occasions for me, remaining "tacky" far too long, in one case for 3 years! I really like their metal color paints but have eliminated their clear coats from my techniques. I've found that the Tamiya Clear Coat products seals and protects their metal colors very nicely.
Cheers,
Lance
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Although my experience is limited, I'd like to share what I did.
I used B502 Mr. Top Coat semi gloss spray(can) and it gave very good results.
I put the planes of the tail of the V/1500 in the spray booth en let it run for 15 minutes or so to get the dust out of the air. Than sprayed, and left the suction of the booth on for another 15 minutes.
The planes dried beautifully. Quick, with a nice smooth surface, and without fluff or dust particles.
Willem
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Thank you Rick, Lance and Willem for your support!
I go back to my good old trusty MicroScale clear coats (never change a running system!).
Biplane
The landing gear was prepared yesterday and later painted
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AgShZkBq49kNdyH3AC9FiwkgJ6sSZ94Q)
One Ikea drawer with a lot of prepared parts for a long mounting session.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cu9Ex1euKOldp49FcX3pXk4QAjwzl8TI)
A check reminds me that the steps are needs to be done before! The four steps (one spare) should be bend and glued in place. I don't like that because they can bend easily completely or break off.
So I drilled 0.3mm holes for a brass wire.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IO_-hHVMGkr7T5EwIx5QVFg_qHU3ltpb)
The wire was soldered from below, here in comparison to the real step. The steps was mounted to the fuselage structure.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PC5l2NZ5m0WjdlhLawQJHuq8ymbJN4ME)
All four prepared:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-SqAiqkDmWykhNtzq0jny6aaoat6dqem)
After drilling holes and cut the wires I could mount the steps in a safe way.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qgG2zqbMiiX0vMa1XtAofLtUHDSt9pyS)
Then I glued all the prepared parts in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lrrwaBbV_kP5K31mkizr5jZJwt0nA-lI)
After final mounting of the engine I added also the cowling
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FJvx6xLh-FC7h_C8U_MeTL5lV8Jam5Y5)
I annealed lightly and prebend a 0.2mm Nickel-Silver wire and glued it around the cowling as securing rope.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1k08ZlBf6SmSbCwHDe-Ypl8C88sBnWGRU)
The wings are prepared for the rigging session.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XIFxUkD99OrTpiWw8ubz5HXUofxOdsCl)
At first I mounted the upper wing, the side struts and lower wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PKfXnowVSHPbKDXRGVESkY8dLnPC0P1i)
Now it is a biplane!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Dkz2zP2TV454OGmYaI90gxbuHJk1_4Ty)
I wanted to mount the landing gear too, but the last of the four pins do not war to go in his hole. With bigger force I broke the complete gear off.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YqX40P7JJXWT6-ii94pBw5T4ngLnlcHN)
So I have to remade the gear in metal. Thought about that earlier but refused the work ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Such a shame that the plastic u/c did not want to fit into the holes. However I am sure that a metal gear will be stronger, and knowing your metal working skill, it will be more refined too. The remainder of the model is truly stunning.
Stephen.
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Frank,
Thanks for sharing the lessons you have learned along the way with this build. This is going to turn out great.
Kevin
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Such a shame that the plastic u/c did not want to fit into the holes. However I am sure that a metal gear will be stronger, and knowing your metal working skill, it will be more refined too. The remainder of the model is truly stunning.
Stephen.
I completely agree and don't have much to add other than the Steps are Awesome work!
RAGIII
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Awesome progress... sorry about the undercarriage ... but I know you will get it right! Regards, Marc.
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Well now that just sucks about the undercarriage , your new ones will turn out better ;) She does look good Frank as a bi-plane :)
Terri
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That, again, is a fantastic progress on this very special model!
There’s just one thing, I don’t understand: Why did you build and paint the kit‘s landing gear struts first and then break them by force just before rebuilding it from metal? Wouldn’t it have been easier not to use the kit‘s undecarriage struts at all and to use metal instead just from the beginning? The more I think about it — not breaking the plastic parts, wouldn’t this also have been a good idea? I am confused :)
Andreas (not far away, but far enough not to be beaten up)
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An unfortunate incident, but it happens. :-\
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Thank you Stephen, Kevin, Rick, Marc, Terri, Andreas and Ken for your kind and supportive words!
However I am sure that a metal gear will be stronger, and knowing your metal working skill, it will be more refined too.
Hmm, my main method seems to be (again) "Improvement by accident". This first happened when I put the airbrush booth on the workbench to paint the landing gear of a Fokker E.III strip down. Where the hell is the landing gear? You guessed it, it was folded up under the airbrush booth!
Andreas (not far away, but far enough not to be beaten up)
(https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/aerger.gif)
By the way, I forgot to mention (and a picture) that I have done the control wires on the tail before. If you look at the pictures of the last update you may note them.
Cheers,
Frank
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New legs
I had and idea and must check it immediately ...
2 x 3 holes in 0.8mm brass micro tubing and soldered 0.5mm brass rod pieces into.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1huOm_eezXNNXf3MSZg0XBEpylTeAw3M-)
Struts are 0.7mm brass, plugged on the rods and soldered. The new axle below was already scratched some updates ago.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eyFcGIE8UTpdPPypJq9dee19HpE0N7Y_)
After tinning lugged as test fit the little Fokker, looks nice I think!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KAgYNLVE7uB9DaJUPYyPSEh3HHlXb5UT)
Earlier today I put oils to the linen of the wheels, which I forgot to do earlier.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kAuqETaJ1CAGyVc4FdwwFcrIbOO7KJ6_)
I'm happy, that my quick fix worked!
Cheers,
Frank
PS: The soldering iron is still hot :D
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Nice come back so far with the struts Frank , looking forward on seeing them finished and installed :)
Terri
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I love what you did with the steps, such small parts. Your metal u/c looks real good. I bet this won't break when you glue it in place ;D
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What a stunning job of micro soldering!
Willem
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As always your scratch built struts are better than the kit supplied version...By FAR! Lovely work Frank!
RAGIII
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Your landing gear looks great - and they fit. What's the plan for covering the front tubes?
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Thank you Terri, Ferry, Willem, Rick and Ken for leaving a comment!
What's the plan for covering the front tubes?
Good catch!
There are pictures available showing some D.V without covering, but most of them had one.
The plan is to use wood, as on wing struts, for the back strut and to cover the front struts with paper (remains of the recent Derperdussin Monocoque project).
Cheers,
Frank
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Quote: "looks nice I think". Really Frank, you are German and we Brits are supposed to be the masters of understatement...!
Personally I think you solution to the undercarriage problem is much like your other solutions - b.....y marvellous!
Stephen.
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Thank you Stephen ;)
I didn't want to post any pictures today, but what just happened almost gave me a heart attack!
Crash!
Today I nearly lost the model!
But one step after another.
This late afternoon I added wood to the back strut and covered the front struts with paper.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1v1pITPOYI076tKIFsr7CpmG_6RZ0sCkx)
Paint is missing, but the new gear looks promising.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-YigRYqkwAGN5-pRqBYFKUPIvwlHac_c)
Shortly after that picture (I have moved the lamps for better picture light before) the heavy head of a lamp with 1.9kg (with two light tube and a huge magnifying glass between them) crashes down to the bench only 10cm right of the model!
Reason: the adjustment and holding clamp breaks into parts :o :o :o The round parts were still on the arm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CBnQuiLbuyn1gJlVy0xv1WM5ZQoU7Vy1)
I'm soooo happy, that the model survived! :)
Need to fix this to be able to work in this dark late afternoons and evenings.
Cheers,
Frank
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It's a lucky model - better keep it!
It's a shame that the struts and landing gear are painted. I like the look of the metal and wood.
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Let's be to glad that the model has survived!
Paul
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Oops :o
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Everybody is entitled to a little luck every now and then!
Willem
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I was Really Concerned when I read the subtitle! I thought 2020 had claimed yet another build ::) I am so relieved that the lamp Missed the Model ;D The lamp is easier to replace ::)
RAGIII
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Thank you my friends!
I thought 2020 had claimed yet another build ::)
Oh yes Rick, from that point of view a accident like that would match the row of bad things happens this year!
On Scalemates some other modelers reported the same issue with words like this: "Same lamp, same supplier, same problem...." Even different lamps types and arms using the same moulded zamac pieces. So if your lamps shows some clamps at the end of the arm be warned!
It's a shame that the struts and landing gear are painted. I like the look of the metal and wood.
I like it too ??? I will scratch it here and there to show the material below.
Cheers,
Frank
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Just caught up Frank - for a moment I thought that this was going to be number three (following Rick's two disasters). That was a lucky near-miss. Hoping for better luck in future - with a stronger fixing on the lamp.
Stephen.
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I forgot to mention that the Landing Gear looks perfect! Great job as always Frank!
RAGIII
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Stephen and Rick, you always have a kind word for me, thank you!
for a moment I thought that this was going to be number three (following Rick's two disasters). That was a lucky near-miss.
So I have a big chance, that this model will be the finished one number 8 this year.
I forgot to mention that the Landing Gear looks perfect!
I think I will paint but not yet mount it. So it can dry and I will try to do the rigging on Friday using the day light.
Then mount the u/c and add gear rigging and the line to the front. At least that is the plan.
Cheers,
Frank
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Yes Frank, there is a Santa Claus! It's coming up an absolutely gorgeous build by the way.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Lucky escape with the lamp, Frank! 2020 has been bad and a lot of setbacks all round, so great to hear your projects are going so well, that undercarriage is superb! Regards, Marc
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I was Really Concerned when I read the subtitle! I thought 2020 had claimed yet another build [...]
RAGIII
Ditto :o
Glad it was just the lamp, cast alloy parts are untrustworthy as much as plastic ones. Btw congrats for your mixed media landing gear, it's really brilliant.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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What great comments, thanks Dave, Marc and Giuseppe!
Rigging
Possibly I am a little crazy since I decided to fix a problem. The model is far from perfect ( I will never reach the 100% perfection of the kit inside the box, what Fredrik mentioned). But since I noticed that the distance between upper wing and fuselage is to big I will always see that mistake if I look later into my glass cabinet. This is a typical property of this aircraft so I had to fix it.
The requires to remove the upper wing completely. With the metal struts that is somehow possible. The problem was mainly, that the pins go out of the prepared holes during glueing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QA0m3ycAhuV1QdCPjY0G_3rcS9qEoFot)
After modification of the slots in the wings for the struts and shorting the outer struts I mounted the wing again and rigged the wings using the great daylight today.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NAsiAsmZzmlPeXd2lKwTvoYHLHqnC__h)
Hard to take good pictures without the missing lamp.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q_pVuYZmB6OfOXLT3x0JzJkBY5NhVK0M)
I had also to cut some brass sleeves, because the prepared ones were not enough.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G8MwKojt09iiazbCgLObVdJC6dBLMZ6g)
Also half of the aileron control cables are done. Two are missing, which I will add after mounting of the undercarriage due to needed PE parts on top of the wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UU-mN1Il7yT2Zp032_QxD5J4NT33GAmV)
I do not have before and after pictures, but here is a older one.
In the side view there should be only a space of 5mm between upper wing and fuselage, but it was 6.5mm. An error of more than 20% is conspicuous!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-YigRYqkwAGN5-pRqBYFKUPIvwlHac_c)
Now it is only a little bit more of the expected 5mm. Here are also 2 rigging wires missing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vx4_JZKqJLmSy2B5GTV22yqRqtO1w1Gx)
The new undercarriage is primed and now painted to be mounted soon.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ma__nfQ2aKAUhoH-3nXV4glgtQC7pgry)
There are still enough things to do, but this was a big step towards the final album.
Cheers,
Frank
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Great looking rigging and the gear continues to impress!
RAGIII
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What great comments, thanks Dave, Marc and Giuseppe!
Rigging
Possibly I am a little crazy since I decided to fix a problem. The model is far from perfect ( I will never reach the 100% perfection of the kit inside the box, what Fredrik mentioned).
I suppose the next philosophical question is whether there is a model in the box at all until you open it?! 😃
Lucky call with the lamp! I'm glad you can continue to improve the model and move closer to the 100% perfection. It looks fantastic!
/Fredrik
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Thank you Rick and Fredrik!
the gear continues to impress!
Rick, not yet! I have done a second round of correction cycle on the gear! I just checked not careful enough before mounting and made again the mistake to trust the kit parts >:(
I suppose the next philosophical question is whether there is a model in the box at all until you open it?! 😃
Exactly!
I try to improve it, but with additional fixing cycles it is not easy. One error is fixed, but for the price of paint is destroyed on the connection points.
More in the next update ...
Cheers,
Frank
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This model may not be 100% as per in the box Frank, but then I do not know of any model that is! Yours though regularly reach 98% which is considerably better than what mine do.
Excellent recovery in lowering the wing - I am sure that when the paintwork is carefully touched in, a blind man would like to see the results.
Stephen.
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Great fix on the upper wing gap, looking really good! Regards, Marc.
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Thank you Stephen and Marc! I will show a side view with the final pictures.
Finale
After the paint was dry I glued the struts into the fuselage. The axle was inserted and I tried to add the suspension, made from stretched sprue. It was not easy, because the axle rotates. The solution was a temporary fixing on the other side with copper wire. After that I added the gear rigging and plugged the wheels on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ja2e2fsvqPJnfEAWk7xQDBsRcu_A9AG0)
What is that?! I don't like the overall impression, looks much different to the pictures of the real bird.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Gwzj-3JUD4rz63LKjEEfsnonIu9_gZJm)
According to the drawing the axle should be in front of the wing and the distance between axle and fuselage is too big.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GNkk1ogLGhbyJpWi4u7x4qOIH3211yr3)
I cut the rigging, removed the complete gear again (with intact suspension), removed the pins of the front struts. With soldering iron to the pin, very quick to leave the paint intact. The I filed down the front struts by more then 1mm. After glue in the pins the hole gear could be readded. The axle is now moved forward.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mZN_dz41vF5ltFQK9nD1PNvRdHTxArlB)
Also the distance between axle and fuselage is according to the drawing. I like the impression now!
There was no drawing of the gear without angle, so I used the size of the kit struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17ZKgNeOBpmBWqWqznmvElg6ARwi7-kr7)
The kit provides a windshield, but it is much to big. So I made a new one, below.
Another problem: the Spandau is in real much wider.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xMzpwFc_c26RpkBLMkLb5YlstgaaFDcG)
The gun should sit more right side (to late to correct), so I modified the windshield slightly.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Wzt4mdLj1HGdqYQXPK1gwefa7T3FiMte)
Air screw and spinner was added now. I tried to apply my 1/48 version of Garuda logos, but they are much to big! Need to look for the 1/72 version.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hanAjgPslVMnNZ-LV2wpUSq1oUfdPf1z)
The gear rigging is completed again, now also with a rope below the axle. This special kind of rigging looks nice!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18ebZ6YUD5aXniU7QUNXdKhZoejTGPLh0)
The tail plane is now also mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10zOaSjUrn60GP9SFYT0L6vNoO6ZKBm9z)
The soldered step added now. Please note the open side of the pipe.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11ZUfgivJ_Ga13NW2RGH4uxgeqd8GBrWb)
On lower surface I had to fix the paint around the strut mounts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZNGhQzk2mf2R-pgOObCiYd7kD0O8ughP)
The Fokker factory plate was as decal in the kit, but I used a nicer on from my spare box and applied this to bare metal foil.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dfU4_u0o70Bx9P7ipnZe9Q-N6F_n82gI)
Found also some Eduard Fokker serials, printed in a way, that you can't read the number.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zy3w6mB73pVidsEXERAIbZS-gxhQWsHn)
I also masked the wheels and painted the tires in a flat grey.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Q4LYX78uLIfTfM_TMTncXPV1su7wkzRu)
The final view of this little Fokker Jewel (title of the Windsock article). The rigging is already metalized. Now only two PE parts and two control wires are missing and weathering needs to be done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pr0TC5zlO4N1wHHWRuC3LbwLnn5xIS6x)
My model 8 of 2020 will be finished soon.
Cheers,
Frank
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Your attention to details is always impressive Frank! To go back and fix/change things to make them more accurate is admirable to say the least. The results are a Beautiful replica of an interesting aircraft!
RAGIII
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Super job Frank,
The axle is sublime!
Guy
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Good work on the corrections, Frank. I look forward to seeing this in the completed section.
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Thank you Rick, Guy and Ken!
It is easier to do the fixes earlier, but without the mounted axle and wheels plugged on I have not really noticed the problems during dry fitting.
Some newer Datafiles shows things like struts, tail booms and so on in real size, which is very helpful.
Cheers,
Frank
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Finished
Today I made new metal parts for the lamp: the two parts in the middle. Not perfect, but works for now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YukLiaRNFDEXAKN064aWrW0XpAfyk9ix)
As last parts I added two bows for aileron control on the upper side, going into the wing cut. Here the bows are connected to a "one end" turnbuckle so the aileron is under control by this "V" of wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GiK_MX-9QVjpF8nF1iJ3mxt9RYR5aLQy)
The last picture of this build report shows the weathering, mostly some oils below the engine. Here you can see the rotary through the cut outs.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QXKc5i9zE_ATvWmM1rM8SCgrBjGLgWsJ)
So again a model is finished! I really like the outcome, mainly due to the Fokker streaking and the scratched parts.
More soon in completed section.
Thank you very much for watching and your comments!
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Well done! The completed Fokker is a another gem. As for the lamp, it's another example of your impressive skills.
Kevin
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Frank,
I always think that in reality your models are much larger - 1/24 scale because of all the very fine details that you add. Which means that I have toask: where did you get that large chocolate Euro coin from?
Stephen.
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Thank you very much Kevin and Stephen! Your kind words are highly appreciated!
where did you get that large chocolate Euro coin from?
You can ask at the magic supply store, they have coins that big. :P
The final pictures are done and can be found here:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11762.0
Cheers,
Frank
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This is a real beauty Frank.
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Wow!! That is beautiful!!!