forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: phs Paddy on April 17, 2012, 12:24:30 PM
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I am converting the Encore F.I “Voss” kit into that of Lieutenant Rudolf Klimke’s Fokker Dr.1 while with Jasta 27. The main documentation on the structure of the machine will be the Kagero “Fokker Dr.I The Aces' Aircraft” book. For markings and colours I’ll use the work sheet that came with the Cutting Edge decals “Fokker Dr.1 Part 2”. That’s Klimke’s machine in the lower left corner of the colour sheet.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_0975.jpg)
First progress:
First I glued the photo-etch to thin Evergreen 0.13mm sheets and then glued the styrene sheets to the fuselage halves. I then primed the interior area and when dry sprayed my base acrylic colour for the bleached linen covering. I then masked the linen area from the plywood sides and applied artist oil Gold Ochre with a sponge attempting a grain look for the plywood.
My thought now is to spray the entire area with Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow not only for the plywood effect but in hopes the bleached linen colour I mixed will show a touch of yellow improving the appearance. Not to happy at this point with the colour the linen has. After the clear yellow has cured I will apply a thin artist oil wash of Burnt Umber to the entire area to darken it up a bit. Fingers crossed as I try to reach an acceptable look.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1003.jpg)
Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received. :)
Paddy
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The wood grain looks good. Maybe a dusiting of tan pastels on the linen to relieve the starkness? Of course when you close the fuselage it will mostly be in shadow.
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Nice wood grain Paddy, your idea of spraying the wood and the linen with Tamiya yellow sounds interesting, I'm keen to see the result.
Des.
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Hi Paddy,
Good to see progress on Klimpy's bird ;)
Tamiya do a nice line in pastels. They can be applied dry with the applicator supplied or chipped into a small pot and thinned with tamiya thinner for a wash.
Perhaps a build up of thin washes will serve you well. Try it out on plastic card first :)
(http://www.etamiya.co.uk/images/products_images/TAM87079m.jpg)
Lord Von Buckle
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Your woodgrain effect looks very realistic Paddy. After seeing the edging you added, I wish now that I had thought to do the same with my recent Dr.I, using some thin plastic strip. At the time it never occurred to me but I can see now just how much of a difference it would've made.
Cheers,
Chris
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The wood grain looks good. Maybe a dusiting of tan pastels on the linen to relieve the starkness? Of course when you close the fuselage it will mostly be in shadow.
Hello Rob,
Thanks for that and the suggestion. I had not thought of using pastels and it sounds like a very good approach. I’ll be checking that out.
Nice wood grain Paddy, your idea of spraying the wood and the linen with Tamiya yellow sounds interesting, I'm keen to see the result.
Des.
Thanks Des. I'll shoot the clear yellow on a test piece I made up using the same primer, base coat and artist oil to check the result before doing the fuselage. If that appears OK I'll pop a photo of fuselage so we can see the difference before making any other change.
BTW, love being aboard.
Hi Paddy,
Good to see progress on Klimpy's bird ;)
Tamiya do a nice line in pastels. They can be applied dry with the applicator supplied or chipped into a small pot and thinned with tamiya thinner for a wash.
Perhaps a build up of thin washes will serve you well. Try it out on plastic card first :)
(http://www.etamiya.co.uk/images/products_images/TAM87079m.jpg)
Lord Von Buckle
All right LvB. :) We seem to have a consensus building in that direction so just placed a “notify” at SB for the A set. Seems their out at the moment but they usually respond quickly. If I’m ready before they are I do have some of the Warpigs pigments in the inventory I’ve never tried and I’ll give them a shot.
Plain old water works well too ;)
Thanks for that RB. BTW, I keep going back to your ‘Completed Thread’ and checking out the Bebe. One of my favorite kites and I love the job you did with her. The subtle shadows set things off. I’ll have to try and learn the technique.
Your woodgrain effect looks very realistic Paddy. After seeing the edging you added, I wish now that I had thought to do the same with my recent Dr.I, using some thin plastic strip. At the time it never occurred to me but I can see now just how much of a difference it would've made.
Cheers,
Chris
Tally-ho Chris and thanks for that. Love your just completed Dr.I and if I can come just a wee bit close to your work I’ll be quite happy.
Thanks again gents for taking the time and posting your comments. I think I’ve fallen in with an outstanding group. :)
Paddy
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Paddy,
Excellent progress and outstanding wood graining my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great start Paddy, excellent wood grain.
Cheers
Pete.
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Paddy,
Excellent progress and outstanding wood graining my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Thanks Gregory. Much appreciated
Paddy
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Great start Paddy, excellent wood grain.
Cheers
Pete.
Thanks Pete. Its been fun trying to learn to do wood graining.
Paddy
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Thanks Pete. Its been fun trying to learn to do wood graining.
Fun? Are we supposed to be having fun? Darn, I think I missed that memo. ;D Seriously though, you're past the 'trying' part Paddy. You've got the hang of it my friend!
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks Pete. Its been fun trying to learn to do wood graining.
Fun? Are we supposed to be having fun? Darn, I think I missed that memo. ;D Seriously though, you're past the 'trying' part Paddy. You've got the hang of it my friend!
Cheers,
Chris
;D ;D ;D Man, even when you hit some turbulence you come out right side up. You have the gift of a true craftsman and artist.
That’s kind of you to say and I thank you for that Chris.
Paddy :)
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Nice wood grain Paddy, your idea of spraying the wood and the linen with Tamiya yellow sounds interesting, I'm keen to see the result.
Des.
Well Des, after going through a test spraying of the clear yellow over the linen its a bust and I'll now approach warming that cold linen bugger up in some other manner......... I hope. :-\ The clear yellow looks fine to my eye on the plywood but it will end there.
Back to the drawing board if I can get out of the inside of this dark Cumulus Nimbus without the wings coming off. ;D ;D ;D
Paddy
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Great start. Dont give up!!!!
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Paddy!
You finished it yet? ;D
Come come dear boy, pull your finger out!
Von armchairmodeller
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Great start. Dont give up!!!!
Thanks for that pepperman and no I won't. Its a bright sunny new day here. ;D
Paddy
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Paddy!
You finished it yet? ;D
Come come dear boy, pull your finger out!
Von armchairmodeller
Right’cha air Lord von Buckles. I’m not ready for the Soldiers’ Home yet. On with a fresh attack plan today. :)
TTFN,
Paddy
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C'mon Paddy, you can't stop at the woodgrain, what about the canvas and rigging. ;)
Cheers
Pete von Builderofkaiserkites.
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
;D ;D ;D ROTFLMBO!
Paddy
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
Steve,
Man I love that wicked sence of humor my friend. Great One!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Paddy
Playing devil's advocate I for one actually like the paler linen look, I've used a paler base on my last couple of builds. You could try toning it down, dirtying it in with a few light washes, shade it where the fuselage structure is. Before long it will be a lot less a stark contrast once you get the structure in place over it.
All said loking nice though.
Keith
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
Aw! come on, I like my pleated skirt and pompoms.
Cheers
Pete.
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
Aw! come on, I like my pleated skirt and pompoms.
Cheers
Pete.
Works for me. Although I've outgrown my current pleated number my pompoms still have a few miles left in them :P ;D :-X
Von crossdressingpompomartist
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Paddy
Playing devil's advocate I for one actually like the paler linen look, I've used a paler base on my last couple of builds. You could try toning it down, dirtying it in with a few light washes, shade it where the fuselage structure is. Before long it will be a lot less a stark contrast once you get the structure in place over it.
All said loking nice though.
Keith
Thanks for that Keith. This morning I’ll take yesterday’s work out of the heated Pyrex drying locker and get a look at what I’ve wrought. After doing the twisted knickers dance and studying Mig Jimenez’s F.A.Q. tome on AFV painting techniques I decided to use what he describes as a filter to warm up the area a bit and with that I applied two applications of an Ochre filter.
I’ll post up the before and after images and we’ll get a comparison later.
Paddy :)
P.S. I’m getting tickled again with the mental image of those two blokes sashaying into some pub doing their little dance while pushing up poms in their shorty skirts. Lord Buckle’s would be in Viking Purple and Gold no doubt. Don’t know about Pete’s though. ;D ;D ;D
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The first image is the before and the second is the after. In the after photo the plywood area was AB with Tam Clear Yellow. Then the entire area, plywood and linen had an Ochre filter applied twice with a brush. As you can see the light was not the same in both photos but you can see that the bleached linen in the 2nd image does look warmer. You can also see that I got a bit of streaking with the filter.
I’ve dallied enough at this point and will now move on before Lord Buckles begins to throw stones. ;) Besides when the rest of the cockpit structure and fixtures are in place and the fuselage is buttoned up it may not look to bad (fingers crossed).
I personally think that using a filter has a place in my very short repertoire and believe I’ll know how to prevent the streaks the next time out.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1003.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1020.jpg)
Any and all comments gratefully received even if they have burrs. ;D
Paddy
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I think you've toned it down enough and as mentioned with the framing and then closed up it will be all good. Oh and aaahhh..... Shish-boom bah........
Steve
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...nothing like modeller cheerleaders...although the little pleated skirts and pompoms have gotta go.......
Aw! come on, I like my pleated skirt and pompoms.
Cheers
Pete.
Works for me. Although I've outgrown my current pleated number my pompoms still have a few miles left in them :P ;D :-X
Von crossdressingpompomartist
LOL Bob you've revealed more than I ever wanted to know my friend! And for crying out loud shave those hairy legs.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Paddy,
Looks fantastic from here my friend. Excellent choice of marking too.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks Gregory. Now I'll see if I can pickup the pace a little. ;D
Paddy
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Hi Paddy,
Off thread...but... ;)
I move home in the next couple of months. When I do, and I'm settled, I promise to get back into this great hobby of ours.
I gots loads of catching up to do... DOH!
Von modellerrelived! :D
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Hi Paddy,
Off thread...but... ;)
I move home in the next couple of months. When I do, and I'm settled, I promise to get back into this great hobby of ours.
I gots loads of catching up to do... DOH!
Von modellerrelived! :D
That's grand to hear Robert. It will be great to see that marvelous skill of yours off and running again. I'll be looking forward to it mate as I imagine many will be.
Thanks for the heads up.
Paddy ;D
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Hello Paddy, Roden in no good kits, I have at home. But your up-date is nice. The building will be viewed. Vladimir
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Hello Paddy, Roden in no good kits, I have at home. But your up-date is nice. The building will be viewed. Vladimir
Thanks very much for that Vladimir and its great to have you with us. Today I will spend some time getting more of the cockpit area componets ready for painting.
Thanks again. :)
Paddy
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Paddy, nice start. The wooden bits look the part, but I'm curious about your
CDL. Is a Fokker CDL a different shade than say.. Albatros? IIRC, Humbrol CDL is a little more yellow in tone. What is your take on this?
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I like the detail.. i have bought a DR.I (in 1/72 scale) and now have a mark to aim for in painting the cockpit.. Thank You for sharing .. ;)
DEAN ~~~ 8)
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Paddy, nice start. The wooden bits look the part, but I'm curious about your
CDL. Is a Fokker CDL a different shade than say.. Albatros? IIRC, Humbrol CDL is a little more yellow in tone. What is your take on this?
Hi Mike,
Well I messed in my nest on the Dr.1 CDL choice and I’ll do it in a different color the next time using the following as my guide. I had the following suggested list posted to me by Zoran, who knows his stuff, then for some reason……( DOH!) I didn’t use it. Profa would give me a failing grade for that bit of not paying attention. :-[ I do hope Zoran makes it over here before long. I think of him as an important part of this group.
Since Zoran likes to help I don’t think he would mind if I post the following quote from him. It’s a great list of choices for CDL and I shall print it out and attach to the work bench........ maybe a copy stuck to my forehead too.
Hello Paddy,
I ordered some tins of Humbrol and a couple of the colours included what I thought maybe usable as CDL.
I use different Humbrol paints for CDL, depending on scheme and the effect I want to achieve: 148 and 103 for German, also 71 is close, 74 for French, or Vallejo off-white for Pfalzes... Therefore you didn't miss a thing if you ordered some of listed... It's only that I find 103 the most appropriate shade for German CDL, and 148 for Eindeckers...
Hope I helped!
Best regards,
Profa a.k.a. Zoran
Thanks for taking a look Mike and I appreciate your input.
Paddy
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I like the detail.. i have bought a DR.I (in 1/72 scale) and now have a mark to aim for in painting the cockpit.. Thank You for sharing .. ;)
DEAN ~~~ 8)
Hello Dean,
That was a very nice thing to say. It gives me some encouragement that maybe I'm learning. There are some great Dr.1 builders in the group, any kite for that matter, who set some excellant marks at a level far above me. I love to study their work for learning and what I hope I can do one of these days. :)
All the best on your build. I’m always amazed at the level of detail you 1:72 gents achieve. I'll be watching for a look at your project.
Paddy
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You're off to an excellent start, Paddy. The wood panels look just right and your painting is nice and crisp. Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Bud
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You're off to an excellent start, Paddy. The wood panels look just right and your painting is nice and crisp. Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Bud
Thanks Bud. I appreciate your comments.
Paddy
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Carl Heinz arrived from Berlin with yesterday’s post .........
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/CarlHeinz.jpg)
........ and the last I saw of him, as he ordered some of the ground crew to pick-up engine parts and follow him, he went trudging off toward the Fokker hanger muttering “I take charge now.” ;)
Paddy :)
Update: Albeit a little dark I think you can see the detail of the figure better in this photo. Or better yet go to Kellerkind Miniaturen's website to see some excellant photos of Carl Heinz. Apologizes. :-[
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Zzztoobid Fokkers.........
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That will undoubtedly be a great figure Paddy if my recently arrived 'Lets Go' RFC figure is any indication. If I can do a decent job on this first figure, it won't be too long before I pick up that mechanic too.
Cheers,
Chris
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Hi Chris,
Good to hear "Lets Go" is in your hands now. You'll do a grand job with him I have no doubt. :) Are you making plans for the SE5a? ;)
Paddy
P.S. My package had the state of Alabama instead of Wisconsin on the address but made it to the fort OK. It was my error and not Martin’s. I must have finger checked the wrong state when entering the address. It has been corrected now. Made good time getting here anyway. Carl Heinz had a prisoner with him. ;D ;D ;D
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Love that NCO's expression. Not sure if a young officer is about to be chewed out or if he's thinking these 90 day wonders don't have a clue.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Love that NCO's expression. Not sure if a young officer is about to be chewed out or if he's thinking these 90 day wonders don't have a clue.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Hello Gregory,
The look on his face was something that has helped me in building a scene in my wee mind that may come into play with this project a little further down the line. Good to keep the old gears turning. ;)
Paddy
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Thought I would give you some thoughts on the Mechanic from Kellerkind Miniaturen since I popped open the box this afternoon. First thing you notice is the excellent detail that Martin Hille has captured with this historical figure. Beautiful work! The figure comes in two pieces, right arm with the spanner is separate from the main body. The casting is very, very good and I’ve only found a few pin holes and places that Mr. Surfacer 500 will take care of quickly. The clean-up will be minor and I’ll be looking forward to giving the Mechanic my attention in the future. :)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1063a.jpg)
Paddy
P.S. Now to find information on German air service personel uniform colours during WWI.
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I'm really looking forward to watching you paint this guy. Without the mustache, he sorta looks like me.
Cheers,
Bud
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I'm really looking forward to watching you paint this guy. Without the mustache, he sorta looks like me.
Cheers,
Bud
;D ;D ;D
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Wow that guy DOES have a lot of character!!!!!
Steve
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Wow that guy DOES have a lot of character!!!!!
Steve
Hi Steve,
Martin really does some beautiful work.
Paddy
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G'day, Paddy.
That's a brilliant bit of woodwork you've done, mate. I'm watching and learning.
As for the figure, he'd be wearing field grey trousers and cap with coloured piping and band (http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/imperial-germany-austro-hungary/ww1-german-field-caps-feldmutze-26117/), and an off-white shirt. (Black shirts may have been issued to mechanics, however the black shirts had four buttons- the style on your figure resembles one of the styles of white shirt). You can use Humbrol 111 for the field grey and any off white for the shirt. The boots and belts black or very dark brown leather (where the raven's oil has worn), no idea what colour the braces are. The band and piping on the cap could be either medium blue (train troops- where an old SNCO mechanic like him probably started their career) or, if he'd come over from a combat arm, green, red or even (probably very dirty) white. Not sure what colour the fliegertruppen wore, though, as I don't have many reference on WWI uniforms.
As he wouldn't be wearing his No 1 clothes when working, I'd lighten the Humbrol 111 with varying amounts of Humbrol 28 and/or 147 (28 on the upper thighs, seat and knees, 147 elsewhere) to show fading, and perhaps add a bit of Humbrol 72 (khaki drill) to the knees and seat to show where they were stained from kneeling and sitting on the ground. I'd also lighten the cap more than the trousers and add some darker grey around the top rim, to show staining from the hands.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Hello Dal,
Splinded! Thanks very much for that. I appreciate you stopping by and giving me that information. Good stuff. Have just made hardcopies for taking to the shop for reference. :)
Now if we can run down the colour of the braces
Paddy
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This may help, Paddy:
http://www.hessenantique.com/Trouser_Braces_p/haigua001.htm
Looking at that I'd say they were dark field grey or dark green (faded and stained, of course) with black leather tabs.
Dal.
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Good to see you are giving a figure a go to accompsny your Triplane! I think your linen is fine as is, I added a little shading and staining to mine but that is a personal preference!
RAGIII
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This may help, Paddy:
http://www.hessenantique.com/Trouser_Braces_p/haigua001.htm
Looking at that I'd say they were dark field grey or dark green (faded and stained, of course) with black leather tabs.
Dal.
Another good lead.
Danke mein Herr.
Paddy :)
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Good to see you are giving a figure a go to accompsny your Triplane! I think your linen is fine as is, I added a little shading and staining to mine but that is a personal preference!
RAGIII
Thanks for that Rick. I received my order for the Tamiya Weathering Master Friday that von Buckles suggested.
(http://www.etamiya.co.uk/images/products_images/TAM87079m.jpg)
I want to try a sample on some scrap and if I’m not to ham fisted I’ll apply a little for possible oil stains in minor streaks before applying to the internal frame work.
I’m iching to get back to the Dridecker.
Thanks again for stopping by.
Paddy
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So here you are Paddy. I'm liking this Dr.I, (as I like almost all Fokker models). This ought to look swell once completed.
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Thanks for that Kevin. Getting closer to having more time for the DR.I.
Paddy
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Thanks for that Kevin. Getting closer to having more time for the DR.I.
Paddy
Great. As stated elsewhere, I'll hopefully be getting a lot more done on my little machine (Fokker D.VII), this weekend too.
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That mechanic figure is every bit as good as their 'Lets Go' pilot. All those nooks and crannies are a figure painter's dream come true. Looks like I'll probably pick up this fellow too.
Looking forward to seeing you get back to your Dr.I.
Cheers,
Chris
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That mechanic figure is every bit as good as their 'Lets Go' pilot. All those nooks and crannies are a figure painter's dream come true. Looks like I'll probably pick up this fellow too.
Looking forward to seeing you get back to your Dr.I.
Cheers,
Chris
Those two figures of Martin Hille's are really top drawer. It makes you wonder how he managed such fine detail in 54mm. You'll make another good choice with the Mechanic.
I'm beginning to pull at the bit to get back to the Dr.1.
Cheers,
Paddy
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I'm finding the painting of the mechanic very exacting, some of the detail is so small you have great trouble in seeing it, you tend to finish up with his moustache on the end of his nose, etc. etc., but I will try my best to do him justice.
Cheers
Pete.
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Hi Pete,
When painting figures now I must wear my Optivisor to handle the detail. What a difference it has made for me.
Paddy
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Hi Pete,
When painting figures now I must wear my Optivisor to handle the detail. What a difference it has made for me.
Paddy
I wear +3.50 reading glasses, what magnification do you wear on your Optivisor?
Cheers
Pete.
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I wear +3.50 reading glasses, what magnification do you wear on your Optivisor?
I've been using +3 reading glasses in concert with a bright overhead light for several years now myself. I've had an optivisor for over 20 years but I've never used it until just now, with the rigging on my current project. I have to say that it makes quite a difference. I didn't realize that you can buy different lens for it though. I'll have to check further on that.
Cheers,
Chris
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Hi Pete,
When painting figures now I must wear my Optivisor to handle the detail. What a difference it has made for me.
Paddy
I wear +3.50 reading glasses, what magnification do you wear on your Optivisor?
Cheers
Pete.
Pete, I also wear glasses and have had intraocular lens surgery on both eyes. What a wonderful advancement in restoring vision, which is now 20/20 with glasses and white looks white again and not cream colour.
I use two different powers over the glasses with the figures, even the 80mm RFC Pilot, the #5 for larger area brushing, and then a #7 when I want to see the very fine detail and when doing the prep work. If you have not used the Optivisor before it may take a little time to get use to them but hang in there and you will soon feel comfortable with them. The only draw back for me is the lack of depth-of- field but you get use to that too. For me they have been worth every penny of the investment. With the skills you have they would be a good supporting tool in fact for anybody who doesn't have Superman vision and likes to do what we do. ;D
Paddy
P.S. I also have a #3 lens which I use sometimes for less demanding vision tasks and a #10 which I could probably use if I went into fine watch repair training. ;D Now, sticking my neck out a bit I would suggest that you go straight to the #5. It would be nice if you could go somewhere and try them. Are you close to a Hannants (sp?) and I wonder if they may have some available you could try?
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Pete,
I "discovered" the Optivisor about 6 months ago and can not describe the difference it makes. I wear eye glasses under it as well, (my distance vision is fine however close up it's ugly) I bought a #5 on a fellow modeller's rcommendation, a #10 for really small work, amd the little "flip down" magnifier, think it's called an Optiloupe??
Bottom line all I ever use is the #5 and I use it a lot more then I would have believed. Great product, makes a big difference and I would now be lost without it. My recommendation......get the #5 Lense and once you've tried it you might consider a stronger or weaker one as a a second option. (my #10 is still in the package.)
Cheers,
Lance 8)
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The main problem is, it doesn't matter what magnification you wear, the damn brush takes on the same magnification as what you're painting. :(
Cheers
Pete.
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Gents,
Be careful about those Optivisors! Mine seem to grow legs and come to
roost in the strangest places. Usually the top of my head! ;D
Jim
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The main problem is, it doesn't matter what magnification you wear, the damn brush takes on the same magnification as what you're painting. :(
Cheers
Pete.
;D ;D ;D Then make sure you're using a very small brush. A 2/0 or 3/0 maybe with an excellent point. ;)
Paddy :)
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Gents,
Be careful about those Optivisors! Mine seem to grow legs and come to
roost in the strangest places. Usually the top of my head! ;D
My Gawd!!
Is my den "bugged" ?? I have, on many occasions, found mine on my head after a very lenghthy (and verbally embellished) search!!.
Cheers,
Lance
Jim
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Gents,
Be careful about those Optivisors! Mine seem to grow legs and come to
roost in the strangest places. Usually the top of my head! ;D
Jim
;D ;D ;D How did I miss this earlier? A blind spot in my Optivisor? :o ;)
Paddy
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Kidding aside, I love mine. I might opt for the Loupe and a set
of the "Headlights" as my next equipment upgrade. I have some
"Ott" type lights but, no matter how I position them there is always
a shadow just where I don't want one.
Lance,
I bet I know EXACTLY what those words are! ;D ;D ;D
Jim
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The main problem is, it doesn't matter what magnification you wear, the damn brush takes on the same magnification as what you're painting. :(
Cheers
Pete.
;D ;D ;D Then make sure you're using a very small brush. A 2/0 or 3/0 maybe with an excellent point. ;)
Paddy :)
Paddy, I don't think you can get much better than a Winsor & Newton Series 7 3/0, but seriously I was only joking when I said that the brush magnifies the same as the bit you're painting. :)
Cheers
Pete.
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Paddy, I don't think you can get much better than a Winsor & Newton Series 7 3/0, but seriously I was only joking when I said that the brush magnifies the same as the bit you're painting. :)
Cheers
Pete.
Pete, I took it as kidding. ;D
I sure agree on the W & N Series 7 brushes. I have a 3/0 up thru a #1 that I use just for acrylic paint with the #0 probably getting the most use when needing to do fine work.
Read some where that if possible to have a set of brushes just for acrylics and another for oils and I assume that includes enamels in the oil set. If I remember correctly it was argued that it is very hard to get oils completely cleaned from the brush and then that causes a repelling of the water based type acrylics when you are loading the brush. I don’t know if that’s over kill but I do keep two sets. I have some Da Vinci Maestro that I keep for the oils just to remind me that these are for oil but they’re not the quality of the W&N Series 7 brushes IMO. May have to do something about that one of these days when I can work some more Series 7’s into the budget. :)
Cheers,
Paddy :)
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Paddy, I don't think you can get much better than a Winsor & Newton Series 7 3/0, but seriously I was only joking when I said that the brush magnifies the same as the bit you're painting. :)
Cheers
Pete.
Pete, I took it as kidding. ;D
May have to do something about that one of these days when I can work some more Series 7’s into the budget. :)
Cheers,
Paddy :)
They certainly aren't cheap, in the UK they start off at £6.50 for a 3/0 and then work up from there, if I remember correctly the largest series 7 brush is about £190.00. :'(
Cheers
Pete.
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That being said, when used carefully, a Series 7 lasts 3x as long as the cheaper brushes.
Steve
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How goes the Dr.1 Paddy? Hope your not waiting for me to catch up ;) ;D
I'll be using your excellence to help inform my baby steps.
Andrew
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How goes the Dr.1 Paddy? Hope your not waiting for me to catch up ;) ;D
I'll be using your excellence to help inform my baby steps.
Andrew
Hello Andrew,
Thanks for that but I'm afraid I'm stalled at the present time. Little time in the shop as we're in a vacation period, doing day trips and also domestics about the yard. Love being outside with none of that funny white stuff on the ground. ;D
I'll be pulling at the bit before its over to get restarted but for now the lights are out in the hanger. ;)
Paddy :)
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I feel your pain Paddy. Only good thing about the white stuff is it hides all the other stuff that needs to be done when it's gone! My workbench time is taking a beating for the same reason, hopefully I'll get caught up soon.
Cheers,
Lance
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I feel your pain Paddy. Only good thing about the white stuff is it hides all the other stuff that needs to be done when it's gone! My workbench time is taking a beating for the same reason, hopefully I'll get caught up soon.
Cheers,
Lance
Spot on Lance. ;)
Paddy
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Don't get the white stuff where I am, just lots of fast growing green stuff that is slowing down as the cold weather kicks in for another Aussie winter.
So a bit more time to hit the bench for me.
Andrew
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Don't get the white stuff where I am, just lots of fast growing green stuff that is slowing down as the cold weather kicks in for another Aussie winter.
So a bit more time to hit the bench for me.
Andrew
Oh! I forgot to mention that the "fast growing green stuff" is part of what comes up from under the "white" stuff annually. Once all cut and trimmed mine takes 4-5 hours. I live on an acreage and have far too much of the stuff. I'll try to find a place with concrete landscaping to retire to soon...
Cheers,
Lance :( :'(
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Oh! I forgot to mention that the "fast growing green stuff" is part of what comes up from under the "white" stuff annually. Once all cut and trimmed mine takes 4-5 hours. I live on an acreage and have far too much of the stuff. I'll try to find a place with concrete landscaping to retire to soon...
Cheers,
Lance :( :'(
Do I foresee something like . . . maybe a . . . vineyard in your future? ;D ;D :o
Cheers,
Chris
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Oh! I forgot to mention that the "fast growing green stuff" is part of what comes up from under the "white" stuff annually. Once all cut and trimmed mine takes 4-5 hours. I live on an acreage and have far too much of the stuff. I'll try to find a place with concrete landscaping to retire to soon...
Cheers,
Lance :( :'(
Do I foresee something like . . . maybe a . . . vineyard in your future? ;D ;D :o
Chris,
Ouch!! SWMBO has mentioned one of the great things about moving east is the "wine country" aspect; fancies herself getting a "hobby-job" as as a Tour Guide at a Vineyard. For my part I'd rather buy good SE Australian here and continue shovelling the white stuff!
Cheers,
Lance ;)
Cheers,
Chris
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....For my part I'd rather buy good SE Australian here....
Ahh, a man after my own heart Lance ;)
Andrew
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Chris,
Ouch!! SWMBO has mentioned one of the great things about moving east is the "wine country" aspect; fancies herself getting a "hobby-job" as as a Tour Guide at a Vineyard. For my part I'd rather buy good SE Australian here and continue shovelling the white stuff!
Cheers,
Lance ;)
She may need that job when you see the house prices down that way! :o
Cheers,
Chris