forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: RichieW on April 06, 2020, 01:32:54 AM
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After having to temporarily call a halt to my Camel build I'm back on it with the Tripehound. I am setting out to build a 1/32 replica of the flying replica in the Shuttleworth collection. Apparently Tommy Sopwith liked this replica so much he said it should be considered a late production model rather than just a replica.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49738169173_b36bdf5cf6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc7QV)20200229_110529 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc7QV) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49738169178_9786b5f72d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc7R1)20191116_105206 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc7R1) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have many reference pictures from visiting the collection, the fine details would require extraordinary ability to replicate so I won't be attempting to incorporate everything for fear of bungling it all and ending up with another kit on the shelf.
I made a start by painting the interior walls, I spent 4 hours carefully masking everything but the results weren't great. I stripped it, remasked, repainted and got an even worse result.
Next up I remembered seeing watercolour pencils being used so I dug mine out and just drew over the struts, cleaning up is relatively easy with a damp paintbrush. Not a perfect result by any means but good enough for me and it only took 15 minutes. With a bit of practice I think this is the way forward for me, I will try this again when I build the Pup.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739028592_c277f4ec15_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgwju)WNW Triplane start (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgwju) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
All the wooden parts are painted but mostly remain on the sprue for now, quite pleased with the effect but can't touch anything for a good few days now.
While that sits drying I got on with engine, plenty of time to kill under lock down so I tried to paint all the nuts either brass or bright silver. Enjoyed the distraction form the real world, I used a very fine point brush then applied a wash of flat aluminium around the nuts to cover any mishaps. An oil wash of burnt umber helped further disguise any problems.
Again not perfect but a good result for me, very pleased!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49738154498_991b191d2f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc3tU)WNW Triplane start (https://flic.kr/p/2iMc3tU) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I really should add ignition leads but I think a glass of wine in the garden has my name on it.
Happy modelling and good health to everyone. If anyone has any tips on adding the ignition leads or anything else for that matter please feel free to offer advice. That's what I'm here for! :)
Richie
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Richie
Looking good. I have been using watercolor pencil for ages and it never occurred to me to use them on the wooden structure molded into the inside of fuselages, (which I can never paint without making a mess), DOH! Great idea and good looking results.
For plug wire leads I have used thin copper wire obtained by stripping the insulation off multi strand wire and unraveling the strands. Takes paint well and holds the shape you bend it to which makes for easier installation.
sp
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Thanks SM, the watercolour pencils felt like cheating but no way was I ever going to get the masking right. I changed blades twice but i'm just too clumsy for all that it seems!
Thanks for the tip on copper wire, I'll certainly give it a go tomorrow. I tried EZ line before but ended with lots of excess bits sticking out, definitely not good. My fault entirely, plenty of folks seem to use with immaculate precision.
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I really like the results of the watercolor pencils Richie! All is looking great so far! The engine is turning out to be Fantastic. It is not necessary but one thing I like to do is a very wet wash of burnt umber and black around the formers. The rotary engines made a mess...inside and out. If you try it start light as you can always add but it is more difficult to take away!
RAGIII
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That is a really good start Richie. I would not gett too upset about the slightly rough edges to your interior paintwork - after all who is going to climb into the cockpit to have a look? In the same way the highlighting on the engine looks good too - and when much of it is concealed the eye will be caught but will not be at the other end of a magnifying glass to see any overlap.
I agree with sp about using thin copper wire - I have a supply from telephone extension cable if that is a suitable source for you too. There are plenty of others.
On another site you suggested carving a prop - look on my D H 1 build log and you will see that I have recently carved one. There is an excellent thread on this site too about carving props in all scales - DO give it a try.
Stephen.
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Thanks so much Stephen, I have stripped some old flex and have a good supply of copper wire now. Will have a bash at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the propeller carving references. Will have a good read and while the oil paint hardens I may just as well have a go at that too. Just for the fun though, even if it doesn't work out it will be fun to try.
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Great start on the Tripehound Richie, and the "having fun" part is definitely showing through. I believe you'll be very pleased with the results when you add the fine copper wire to the engine, a real addition often missed. This is a great kit and I know you'll enjoy it immensely as you move along.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks for the encouragement Lance, yes I'm definitely setting out to have fun with this. Not much chance of snapping the gigantic cabanes and I'll be cutting masks on my new present so any holes I fall into will be freshly dug. Got to keep life in lock down interesting!
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Spent the whole afternoon in the man cave today, the copper wire tip was great. Thanks for that chaps!I added a few at a time in between tea breaks to avoid getting eye strain. The end result was a lot better than I managed with EZ line.
Next up was adding all the little dials and placards to the instrument panel. I had a good belly laugh when I zoomed in on the picture, they're all a bit cock eyed but once the cockpit is closed up I doubt I'll ever see them again. :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743057946_c65eda0eca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMCb77)20200406_174909 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMCb77) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Must admit to feeling quite pleased with the wood effect, my black acrylic wash settled into all the nooks and crannies created by dragging oil paint around. A happy accident!
Thanks for looking, happy modelling all.
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Excellent looking panel Richie...and engine also!
RAGIII
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Richie
I really like how the wash you used defined the cylinder fins so clearly, it will make that engine pop as it peeks out from under the cowl.
sp
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Thanks Rick, I'm less intimidated by this one than the Camel. No acorn to worry about rigging so I'm having a lot of fun, great recommendation to start this one. What a great kit
Thanks SP, I was really chuffed with how the wash spread between the cooling fins. It was Burnt Umber oil paint heavily diluted in turps. I'm hopeful of getting this one to the stage where the engine gets the chance to peek out from under the cowl! :)
Great tip on the copper wire btw, much better to work with than elastic thread!
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That engine looks real! The wash has obviously worked well and the minor point about the paint overlap on the bolts has just disappeared. Instrument panel looks first class form here.
Stephen.
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Thanks Stephen, I really appreciate the encouragement. Joining this forum a few months ago has been brilliant for me. Plenty of encouragement and tips have helped me improve so much in just a few months.
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Beautiful work! Both engine and instrument panel looks great!
Lucky accidents are signs of growing skill, otherwise they tend to be just accidents... 😃
/Fredrik
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Thanks Frederik, hopefully I'll have plenty more positive accidents and be able to complete a half decent model! :)
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Nice work on the instrument panel and engine Richie , engine turned out most excellent !
Terri
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Thanks Terri, think I need to use a more powerful magnifying lens next time I decal an instrument panel. Was chuffed with the engine though. :)
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Very slow going here, I seemed to spend 3 days trying to work out where the control cables go and another figuring out how best to attach them. I used fishing line which was a lot easier than trying to thread EZline like I attempted on the aborted camel. Once finished I realised that if I'd spent 4 days figuring out where the lines went I might have got them all in the right place. I attempted to add fake turnbuckles with blobs of glue which look exactly like blobs of painted glue in close up! :)
I'm pleased with the foot board but just noticed that the joystick is off to one side, I'm going to resist the temptation to model the ailerons at a suitable angle. That's for folks who actually know what they're doing.
Of course none of this will be visible so the only thing that matters is that I had some fun and learned a lot. I am now even more amazed by the quality of the builds I see on here but still happy with my more modest efforts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49757197902_d01aafa1b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iNSDqs)20200410_144514 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNSDqs) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Happy modelling and thanks for looking in.
As ever all tips, hints and criticisms are very welcome. With no local modelling clubs it's the only way for me to learn.
Richie
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I Love your iterior Richie! The seat cushion, belts, and the wooden runners are very well done. I also like your control line rigging. I think the buckles look just fine, especially considering that they won't be seen once all is closed up! Very well done all around.
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, I'm definitely improving and as you say none of this will be visible in the end. I'm still summoning up the courage to drill holes in the framework and adding eyelets, that can wait until I'm sober tomorrow! Anyone else drinking too much in lock down?
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Thanks Rick, I'm definitely improving and as you say none of this will be visible in the end. I'm still summoning up the courage to drill holes in the framework and adding eyelets, that can wait until I'm sober tomorrow! Anyone else drinking too much in lock down?
Yes, but then that is nothing new to Me ::) I can't hold the model steady without a couple of beers in Me :o
RAGIII
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Richie: I think that you need to remember two important rules of modelling:
1. We are invariably our own worst critics;
2. We all learn by making mistakes - well some of us do as there are exceptions of course, of whom I seem to be one!
Looking at your Tipehound cockpit I think that you have done a very good job indeed. I would be very happy with that.
Stephen.
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Thanks as ever Stephen. I must keep those 2 rules at the front of my mind. I'm finding it quite absorbing working out the difference between what I could do better, what is perfectly ok and what is actually good.
I've been looking at Des's Bleriot build with great interest btw.
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Bit of a breakthrough day for me. After spending a few days fussing over painting tiny details and wondering how to drill into the framework for eyelets I resorted to EZ line. The floor bracing wires were done with tinned copper wire. The anti vibration discs were cut with a Tamiya disc punch, bit over scale but it was fun to add them and they'll never be seen again once the fuselage is together.
Really enjoying this one, next step is to get to grips with Inkscape so I can cut masks for Dixie II's markings.
https://flic.kr/p/2iPyeuf
https://flic.kr/p/2iPzU7p
Thanks for looking in, Happy Easter all, stay well.
Richie
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Your interior really looks awesome Richie. Your learning curve is really steep and fast!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, I joined a forum and kind people there passed on loads of tips and encouragement! :)
I somehow didn't manage to embed the pictures, let's have another go;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49764921866_0d08e7f067_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iPyeuf)20200412_152140 (https://flic.kr/p/2iPyeuf) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49765246907_752e2bfb3d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iPzU7p)20200412_152228 (https://flic.kr/p/2iPzU7p) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
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That’s really a wonderful interior, Richie. Your care for the detail stands out!
Andreas
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Andreas, thank you so much. I am in awe of your work so your kind words mean a lot to me. :)
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Wow Richie , I'm impressed with your work on the pit , really like your wood tones on the struts , well done so far ! :)
Terri
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Thanks Terri, I did a bit of the pencil crayon thing you recommended on the cabanes, definitely will be doing more of that.
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Great work! I especially like your seatbelt colours! 👍
/Fredrik
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Thanks Faf, much appreciated, I used Vallejo model colour acrylics from their wood and leather set. Love those paints.
Great work! I especially like your seatbelt colours! 👍
/Fredrik
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This is only your second build log and you are showing us details and interiors that look like they have come from someone who has been making and painting kits for years. Wonderful modelling.
Stephen.
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Thanks Stephen, that's very kind of you. I feel I have improved a lot recently thanks to all the help and encouragement people like your good self have passed on. Before joining this forum I'd never even heard of many of the techniques I'm now using. This is like being in a modelling club with some of the best modellers around. It's been a massive boost for me.
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You have done a nice job on this Triplane so far!
I have only one problem: Andreas/Borsos question about PC12, a discussion with Stephen about triplanes and the Sopwith Triplane and now your build invites me to pull my Triplane kit out of the stash and start it! But I have already so many started builds, I need no finish some birds first. But the Tripe will not have to wait long!
Cheers,
Frank
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You have done a nice job on this Triplane so far!
I have only one problem: Andreas/Borsos question about PC12, a discussion with Stephen about triplanes and the Sopwith Triplane and now your build invites me to pull my Triplane kit out of the stash and start it! But I have already so many started builds, I need no finish some birds first. But the Tripe will not have to wait long!
Cheers, ;)
Frank
Haha, thanks Frank, I'm enjoying more than any other model I've made/started so far.
Would love to see you dig yours out of the stash too when you've got a few over the line. It's just so tempting to start lots of projects at the same time, I'm fighting the urge, must be strong, must focus, must finish at least one kit this year! ;)
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I had some good advice from Rick,SM and Terri in the hints and tips section on how to cut out this foothole that the Shutleworth's Dixie II replica has.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49770155123_a63f7930c8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ249P)Dixie II foothold. (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ249P) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I then realised it is a much more complicated task than I first thought due to the design of the kit and the way the internal framework extends back.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49773162367_3f1f094211_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iQht6R)Foot hole puzzle. (https://flic.kr/p/2iQht6R) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Leaving the framework in tact would result in the cut out starting too high up which would look plain silly, cutting a section of the framework out is not without it's compromises either but will look far better from the outside. The upper pencil line shows where the cut out would start if I leave the framework intact, the lower shows where it should begin.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49772835001_243c8f7c0a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iQfMMB)Foot hole puzzle. (https://flic.kr/p/2iQfMMB) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Ignoring the foothole completely is the safe option so it's a toss up between that and chopping a chunk out of the framework which would only look silly if someone had a good peer inside which isn't going to happen. I'll have a think about it and start cleaning up the wings and mount the machine gun.
Any further advice/opinions are very welcome.
Richie
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You seem to have found the best approach to deciding whether or not to embark in a modification to a kit, especially an expensive one. Go work on something else for a while. Let your mind chew on the problem while your fingers do something else that needs doing. You will either hit on a way to do it you are comfortable trying, or you will decide it is best left alone. Either one is the correct when you arrive at it this way. If the answer doesn't come to you, try doing the mod to a cheaper kit you don't care so much about.
sp
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Barely any progress for a while, I scratched my head and contemplated creating the foot hole but in the end decided it was a bit too complicated for me at the moment, maybe a cheaper kit would be a better subject to practice surgery on. More on that later.
I got the fuselage together, practice fittings suggested it would be very straightforward but somehow it wasn't. I must have got the framework twisted but I was able to get a good fit in the end. I managed to make a bit of gluey mess but have rectified that now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49813710681_60150c5053_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTShGH)20200424_153757 (https://flic.kr/p/2iTShGH) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I had a delivery from Proper Plane, this prop is so beautiful it seems almost a shame to stick one of my models on the end of it, I will have to up my game a bit!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49813710791_5d6d41c8b0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTShJB)20200424_153837 (https://flic.kr/p/2iTShJB) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
This was so inspiring that I decided to have a go at carving a prop too so I spent a pleasant couple of days sitting in the sunshine whittling away at some veneers I superglued together and ended up with this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49814019432_58aec84e87_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTTSu1)20200424_154606 (https://flic.kr/p/2iTTSu1) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I'm waiting for the coating of extra thin CA glue to dry before giving it a final polish but I'm pretty chuffed with the result. This will be going a Roden SE5a I picked up for under £30. This will be the ideal candidate for a bit of surgical practice. I will be treating it purely as a learning build and will start a new thread on it soon.
Thanks for reading, happy modelling.
Richie
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Excellent progress Richie. The proper Plane Prop is beautiful and I Must say yours is also! I am Impressed by all of the New things you are trying. Well Done!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, I was so pleased with what I managed to do with the prop. It's not as symmetrical and beautiful as the one Alex carved for me but for a first attempt I couldn't be more pleased.
I decided to embrace every aspect of modelling involved in this great period of aviation. As much I loved building my usual Spitfires and Hurricanes I wasn't improving as a modeller at all. I wasn't learning anything new about the history of flight either. However it is the 80th anniversary of The Few's finest hour this year so I suspect a return to my old subjects is due. :)
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Nicely done prop Richie. The more curved blades make it harder for the bands of light and dark wood to come out symmetrical. You can be proud to have that prop on any model.
sp
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Thanks for the kind words SP. I'm definitely sticking it on the SE5a. Got to cherish your first! ;)
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For your first prop , turned out really well !
Terri
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Thanks Terri, I had another go today. This whittling thing is incredibly addictive. I'll start an SE5a thread soon, I have a few items on order that I will be needing before i can start though. Looks like I'll be breaking my golden rule of only working on one kit at a time. The Camel will be resurrected soon too. It's going to be a busy lockdown! :)
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Nice work on that prop, Richie. Its not as difficult as it may seem. I use the shape of the layers to judge where more material needs to come off.
Sounds like you have the WW1 bug.
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Thanks Terri, I had another go today. This whittling thing is incredibly addictive. I'll start an SE5a thread soon, I have a few items on order that I will be needing before i can start though. Looks like I'll be breaking my golden rule of only working on one kit at a time. The Camel will be resurrected soon too. It's going to be a busy lockdown! :)
Who made hat SILLY rule of only one at a time ;D Looking forward to that SE5 thread!
RAGIII
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Thanks Ken, yes I'm loving the WW1 era, the aircraft are so beautiful and organic and the techniques are so different to what I'm used to. Definitely having fun with it.
LOL, I got so confused and flustered building a flight of Hurricanes a few years ago I decided never again. In may be following your lead again Rick!
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Catching up Richie - it is difficult to keep up with all of the builds here.
Your propellor is first class - you should be proud of that and be ready to put it on a decent model at the very least. Like all skills these things frequently seem to be more difficult than they really are. Your decision not to cut the foot hole on the Tripe was a good one - I find that I have a doubt something will go wrong, whereas if I can say to myself it will work then it usually does. It seems that all those Spitfire and Hurri builds taught you a great deal more than you realsed as your modelling skills are of a very high order. All you need to do now is put the kits on one side and start scratch building!
Stephen.
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Thanks so much for your kind words and encouragement Stephen. It was actually your gentle nudging that led to me carving a prop. You'll be delighted to know I have some brass and styrene bits and bobs on order from Wonderland models and lots of datafile books. ;)
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This is truely a very nice prop and the fuselage of your Tripe looks great. I also carve my own wooden props and I wondered if the superglue between the layers of wood wouldn’t be a little hard to carve? In general I hate sanding superglue because it’s that hard once set, so I never use it for filling gaps.
Andreas
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Thanks Andreas, yes I did have a few problems with the superglue. Alternate layers of such hard material may be what caused a bit of splintering here and there. Final sanding and polishing was difficult too. I'm going to try wood glue to see if it makes life easier. I'm definitely addicted to prop carving now. I may experiment with coloured paper too. The thread in the hints and tips section was intriguing!
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I'm definitely addicted to prop carving now.
Fun, isn't it. My learning is to choose your wood carefully. Last one I did, I chose some rather coarse grained stuff and ended up with a flexible prop
I also over diluted the PVA wood glue
Richard
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Thanks Andreas, yes I did have a few problems with the superglue. Alternate layers of such hard material may be what caused a bit of splintering here and there. Final sanding and polishing was difficult too. I'm going to try wood glue to see if it makes life easier. I'm definitely addicted to prop carving now. I may experiment with coloured paper too. The thread in the hints and tips section was intriguing!
I also enjoy that work very much. It’s in fact one of the most satisfying jobs to be done for a WWI airplane model for me now. From time to time I dream of becoming a carpenter....
I only use undiluted wood glue and never had any troubles yet.
Andreas
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Very nice looking so far -as I have the very same kit on my to-do list I'm watching eagerly :)
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Very nice looking so far -as I have the very same kit on my to-do list I'm watching eagerly :)
Nice to have you along. I've got a little bogged down with it (too many distractions at home) but hope to have it primed ready for paint soon. It's a wonderful kit, you'll love it.
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It doesn't look like a lot of progress but it took me nearly a week to learn how to make a mask to replicate the lettering used on the Dixie II. Learning the basics of Inkscape and Cricut design space has been tedious and frustrating! Here is the real thing;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49738717631_15d409e3dc_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMeVT6)20200325_154457 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMeVT6) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
This is a practice on plastic card,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49845634558_9f767281b1_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iWFUyo)Sopwith Tripe Mask trial. (https://flic.kr/p/2iWFUyo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
A little ragged but the shape is good enough. A bit more practice needed before I dare paint the kit. I will be using MRP paints and these can't be touched up with a brush.
I got the lower wing on but there was a lot of sanding and fettling needed to get a good fit, I've found myself obsessing over little details the tail skid and little hydraulic cylinder took an entire evening to paint. It's been fun to do but it would be nice to finish a kit this year. :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49846515612_6c6dbd355b_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iWLqsY)WNW Triplane. (https://flic.kr/p/2iWLqsY) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for reading
Richie
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Awesome progress and it looks like you are mastering that cutting machine!
RAGIII
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I admire your patience, not to write persistence, with those programmes: I am afraid that I simply do not have the patience with that sort of thing so I ask a commercial manufacturer to make one up for me if I need one - I rarely do fortunately). I also have a simple rule in modelling now - if the part cannot be seen very well when the model is finished then I either leave it out or just make it look acceptable from 3 feet - which is the average viewing distance. Then I am in with a chance of finishing a model in a year...
Stephen.
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Thanks Rick, yes the cutting machine was a fantastic present from Mrs W. It's going to prove invaluable in future builds, I've been using it to help with an SE5a propeller from card today.
Thanks Stephen, the software side of things is utterly infuriating. I struggle with anything like that but I feel duty bound to learn to use it. Mrs W. treated me to an early birthday present because according to her I will probably catch Covid19 and die before then so I might as well have it now. Charming girl she is! :)
Your simple rule is a good one, I enjoy all the little details but have been finding myself bogged down and using all my modelling reserves on what will never be seen. I have never examined the tail skid on anybody's model before so not sure why I spent an evening painting mine. Lockdown does funny things to the brain!
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Richie
As an Australian friend from the WWI Modeling List is wont to say, "It's all about the process". It isn't whether or not you can see some little thing in all it's ever so slightly off scale glory. It's all about did you enjoy making it. If so, who cares if you can see it well. We display our models on a world wide forum, but it is just us, alone at our bench, (along with the odd cat or dog), who build them. It is an intensely personal thing and doing it in a satisfying manner is all that counts. So if making something you won't much see takes all evening, the only question is, "Did you enjoy your evening?" Same principle applies for leaving something rarely seen completely out. Does cutting that corner make for a more enjoyable build for you? Two different processes for 2 different modelers equals two well enjoyed builds. And that is all that matters.
BTW, you are doing great with that cutter, I admire your patience with the software. You are going to get a lot of use out of that.
sp
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Some very insightful, wise, and motivating words in your comments sp, Thanks for that and Richie, you've more patience by far then do I; I'd be hopeless with the soft ware you are dealing with ....... enjoy! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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SP, that is a great post, thank you so much for that. "It's all about the process" I'm going to adopt that one.
Thanks Lance, with the software it's all about the end result rather than the process is more applicable. What a tortuous process it was!
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I only use undiluted wood glue and never had any troubles yet.
I use also undiluted wood glue, but the fast variant. Still slow enough for glueing process, but hardened within a hour in a vice (or may be less).
Learning the basics of Inkscape and Cricut design space has been tedious and frustrating!
I also started to learn and use Inkscape for my Silhouette cutting tool, and I found it works great!
Put the picture into a background layer, drawed the lines by hand quickly. Then I reduced the number of points (see hints on the lower help bar) so I had finally only some corner points on the straight letters, which could be adapted to the picture easily. A very powerful tool!
Cheers,
Frank
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Oh Frank that sounds so much simpler than what I ended up doing. I created the letters individually from different shapes, there was a lot of cursing involved. I'm going to have to have another play to create the red and white cross over the back and sides. Will do that sober tomorrow though! ;)
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Good idea ;)
In principle I have created one letter in one shape. For the round parts the types of the points can be adapted (Ctrl-click), and use the zoom with numbers 1...6.
Cheers,
Frank
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Was thinking the machine could be used for cutting wing ribs and other bits for scratch building. I cut some prop profiles from coloured card today, didn't like the way it carved though. Will try wood veneers next time. These machines are amazing!
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Spent a bit of time on this one today while I wait for a few bits and bobs to arrive for the SE. After many hours wasted trying to create a mask for the cross in Inkscape I went old school and reverted to Tamiya tape. It took a few attempts and a several hours. I've never even masked my own German crosses before so it took far longer than it should. I also applied my machine cut masks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49931448063_f2ba1eee91.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5gHVz)20200524_233010 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5gHVz) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The underside is painted with MRP bleached CDL, masking the rib tapes was therapeutic to put it politely. Upper surface roundels were machine cut and painted too. Big day tomorrow, PC10 to paint and masks to come off. I thought it might help to prime with white surface and MRP white as I have struggled masking the white roundel edges in practice, will find out if it was a good idea soon. Hope I end up smiling, wish me luck!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49931959431_20409d2eb2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5jkWg)20200524_232937 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5jkWg) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for dropping by. All roastings, advice and criticisms gratefully received.
Richie
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Your masking and markings look to be awesome Richie! I really like the results of your rib tapes. Well Done!
RAGIII
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Thanks as always Rick, you really are such a great support. I tried your 'old painters trick' by misting white before the main colour on the markings. I think it worked out quite well. Will be using that from now on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49934926561_318f414d5e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5zxXF)20200525_174032 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5zxXF) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49934926361_856316f3dc.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5zxUe)20200525_174114 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5zxUe) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49935228882_a0eea03cb9.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5B6Q7)20200525_174208 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5B6Q7) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I used MRP white, Oxford blue and Mr Hobby red for the roundels. The PC 10 is basically Mr Hobby olive drab with dark earth and Tamiya red brown mixed in. MRP PC 10 is awesome but I was fearful of needing to touch up with a brush and that has gone horribly for me with MRP paints before.
There are a few small touch ups required but nothing difficult, I'm really chuffed. Not perfect but definitely good enough for me. There is a bit of Mr Liquid mask to remove still but I used up my patience quota and a cold beer in the fridge has my name on it.
Many thanks for reading.
Richie
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Congratulations on those markings Richie - it would seem that your early birthday present and your attempts to master it have paid off well. Those markings look as good as many commercial offerings from where i am sitting. Hope you enjoy your beer - is it Heineken which restores your patience?
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Wow, that looks great!
I should also use more the plotter and paint the roundels, looks great!
Same experience with MRP, looks great and perfect to spray, but very damageable. Gunze or Tamiya paints seems to be more robust.
I was able to fix the scratches on the Dolphin wings with the MRP PC10 and a small brush (with the "thicker" paint from the cap), but you are only allowed to dab shortly and once. Otherwise the paint below gets solved. And this is a dance on the volcano, so I can not really recommend this procedure. Luckily we doing WWI aircrafts and not a sports car, so the finish don't need to be perfect.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Stephen, yes the early birthday present has been a big help. I've enjoyed a nice cold Peroni and very pleasant rum and coke with ice in the evening sun whilst grilling lamb steaks on the BBQ.
Frank, your experience with retouching MRP paints is exactly what I have found. Beautiful paints but you need to get it right first time. Retouching something like a Ferrari would be a total nightmare!
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Stunning work Richie! I learned that trick from another Modeler Years ago! Now if I could just talk the wife into a Plotter :-[ Really beautiful markings!!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, yes definitely talk the Mrs into a potter. Really useful tool it is proving to be. At first it was infuriating, it still is but I'm getting the hang of the software slowly.
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Wow, very cool!
Andreas
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Thank you Andreas, it wasn't very cool today trying to remove all the liquid mask. Definitely won't be using it again on cabanes.
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Many hours were spent today picking off bits of Mr liquid mask, I've never had a problem with it before but I left it on the model for far too long I think. I did some touch ups on the markings which necessitated more touch ups and more still. There are still bits to improve on but I think I might just leave it and move on. Can't go getting too fussy, that way madness lies!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939578557_1a5b5a7e26.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5ZoQv)20200526_204815 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5ZoQv) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have some dry transfer number and letter decals with what looks like the right typeface arriving soon for the serial number so there won't just be a white rectangle on the tail soon.
I sprayed the lower wing roundels and at first glance I think for the first time ever I have masked something and won't have to spend hours retouching. :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49938763208_0ba2065b0b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5VdsL)20200526_204837 (https://flic.kr/p/2j5VdsL) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The real Dixie II has PC 10 wrapped round all lower wing surfaces, this scares me. Anybody got any advice on how to do it cleanly? My inner realist is saying leave it as it is but is quite a prominent feature.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49863384008_27f150a1b8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYfSRo)Shuttleworth Collection Sopwith Triplane replica Dixie II (https://flic.kr/p/2iYfSRo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for reading, think it's time to open the rum bottle for a bit of pain relief. ;)
Richie
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Your Triplane continues to look great Richie. I think that the length of time that one leaves on a liquid mask does indeed make a difference. On My Spads I used a very small amount on the tail section of both SPADS. I actually did a test first on the Guynemer SPAD just to be sure. That went well so I applied it to the other two. After a few days It was a gelled Mess to get off.
RAGIII
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Very nice Richie :) 8)
Terri
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Your "Dixie" is looking great, Richie. FWIW, whenever I have to trim semi-flat thingies like wings and tails I just scan them full size on my cheesy little printer and then open them in MS paint and resize them by a few percent (around 5 to 8%) until the difference appears to match the desired width of the trim. Then I just cut out the image and use it as a mask. Occasional undetected slippage and other happy accidents aside, it works well enough for me.
Another way, of course, is simply to paint the edge first and then mask around that with tape. I did this N.11 using the aforementioned scanner method, though:
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Good work with the masks! It looks good and with a bit of practice you shouldn't have to do any touch ups.
/Fredrik
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Ah, Vickers that is a great idea. I may be able to do that on my cutting machine. Your Nieuport is beautiful, the mask certainly worked there.
Thanks Terri! :)
Thanks Fredrik, yes I'm finding my way with the technique still. There's a very tricky little emblem on the tail fin that still needs doing. I've been practising on plastic card but no success yet. Plenty time to work on it in lockdown still!
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Nice!
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Richie
I did this machine way back when, I forget the kit now, but those were the markings that were on the decal sheet. Your masking looks 100% better than those decals did.
Your issues with pulling off the liquid mask brings up an interesting point. Two schools of thought about masks. Leave it on for a while or get it gone ASAP. I subscribe to the get it gone ASAP school. My reasons are the result of several bad experiences with masking left on too long. I usually pull the mask off anything before the freshly sprayed paint is completely dry; as in no longer wet, but still happy to take a fingerprint. The benefits of doing this is that 1, the paint has not formed a hard dry bond with the masking material and so the mask pulls up without damaging the line between colors. 2, The mask's adhesive has not had time to bond with the base coat of paint and is less likely to pull that up. 3, if there is a slight leak under the mask, the not fully cured paint is easier to remove with a brush dampened with the appropriate thinner. All of the above factors work even better if the base color is fully cured. If the base color paint has a tendency to pull up, then a light coat of fully cured Future/Pledge over the base color before masking is in order. I have demonstrated a talent for messing up masking jobs, but I have had much greater success by a long shot when I remove the mask as quickly as possible. With tape or sticky back vinyl or paper masks, I use the old Mom pulling off the BandAid trick of snatching it off quickly.
sp
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The real Dixie II has PC 10 wrapped round all lower wing surfaces, this scares me. Anybody got any advice on how to do it cleanly?
Made this on my SE.5a. It is somehow easy to mask, because you have a good control over this small stripe during masking. For the arc, see the tail picture, the Tamiya curved tape was a good help:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9848.msg179794#msg179794
Cheers,
Frank
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That's brilliant, thank you Frank. I have some Tamiya curve tape somewhere. Nice simple solution. Will try this tomorrow and let you know how I get on. :)
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The paintwork looks very good Richie. I am pleased to read Frank's comment which I am sure will be most helpful. A little gem in the making here.
Stephen.
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Thanks as always Stephen, I found my cervable Tamiya tape this evening and will give it a go tomorrow. Various brass rods and tubes arrived today so back on the SE soon.
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Got the PC10 wing edging masked and painted today. Thanks for the tip about the Tamiya curve tape, it worked beautifully! Had a few minor touch ups to do but I have found that Vallejo model colour ivory is a near perfect match for MRP bleached clear doped linen.
The paint was misted on lightly in many layers to help avoid paint bleeding under the tape,I am pleased with the result.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49944654183_f6e6318791.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6rpDi)20200528_145142 (https://flic.kr/p/2j6rpDi) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I realised I had forgotten the tail so masked it and had a dreadful brain fade moment. For some reason I decided to use a paint brush, arrghhhh!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49945481092_202eefd9ba.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6vDsm)Masking disaster (https://flic.kr/p/2j6vDsm) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I will have to strip and repaint the part but that can wait for another day. I just noticed it is upside down too. Not one of my better efforts. 😂
Thanks for reading, all roastings for making such a mess of the tail gratefully received! :)
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I'm glad, that the curved tape worked.
Those "happy little accidents" are always there! You know Bob Ross, the painter? What did he say about mistakes?
“We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents.”
Cheers,
Frank
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Oh Richie! I am sure that if we were all honest we would write: "Been there, done that....!"
Stephen.
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Richie
You know what happens?... Sorry you got it all over your stab and elevator.
If it had been done right side up, this would be a good chance try "erasing" the leakage with a brush damp with thinner. If you intend to hit the reset button and strip it, then by all means give the erasure method a try just to see how it works before you strip it.
When you re-do it, shoot a light coat of Future or clear lacquer over the CDL before masking and any leakage will be much easier to clean off. Choose the clear coat based on what thinner dissolves the CDL. Preferably a clear coat unaffected by the thinner used to soften and clean the PC-10.
Don't feel bad about making the upside down mistake, I would bet most of us have done something similarly "creative" as the Chia Pet artist might say.
sp
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I certainly know the feeling. On the other hand it doesn't look too bad. I think taping over the PC 10 and spraying some CDL would work, or just weather the Hell out of it as it is rotary powered and the oil hit the tail too ::)
RAGIII
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Thanks chaps, you're the best! I actually roared with laughter when I realised I'd painted the wrong side CDL and my masking blunder didn't matter anyway.
I actually repainted the right side CDL already by sticking masking film over the whole surface and cutting round it WWII canopy style. Going to put this little one to bed for a few days while I tidy and reorganise my workspace which looks like the place old models go to die at the moment.
I'm going to do very light weathering, I saw Dixie a few times just before lockdown and she was looking very pristine and tidy although during display season she gets pretty filthy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864225087_5835cd6c29.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYkbSK)Shuttleworth Collection Sopwith Triplane replica Dixie II (https://flic.kr/p/2iYkbSK) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have one more bit of masking to do which is causing me grief, I have practised painting this tail fin emblem many times now and it hasn't gone well yet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864225357_ff28716e17.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYkbXp)Shuttleworth Collection Sopwith Triplane replica Dixie II (https://flic.kr/p/2iYkbXp) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I do know that a few years ago the emblem consisted merely of the red circle so I may resort to that. The airframe was painted PC12 in those days though. Bit more practice and I'll decide, the problem is handling the tiny mask more than anything else.
Thanks for your support chaps, I really appreciate the tips and encouragement. You are definitely helping me improve, not long ago I would have considered the tail a good result and just stuck it on upside down! ;)
Richie
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Richie, I wouldn't mask as I'm not too good at it. I would take white decal paper and spray a small section blue and another red and then cut blue triangles, white discs and slightly smaller red discs. Applied on the white fin, it would work well.
Looks like you nailed the width of the PC10 wrap around edges perfectly. I always seem to get them a bit wide.
sp
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Thanks SP, I did contemplate chopping up the kit roundels and using them but decided to persevere with the masks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49951753326_0634eb64fd.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j74MYj)20200530_131940 (https://flic.kr/p/2j74MYj) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I'll call that a success, got the other side to do but that can wait until tomorrow because I tape the part down to a plastic board and don't want to rip the new paint off.
CDL and PC10 is now on the correct sides of the rear wing. I'm pleased with my morning's work!
Richie
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Excellent work on the rudder and re-painting the tail feathers Richie :)
Terri
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Now that is a first rate piece of masking and painting Richie.
sp
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Now that is a first rate piece of masking and painting Richie.
sp
I agree 100%
RAGIII
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Thanks so much chaps, the Cricut cutter is proving to be a great tool. I can't recommend a cutting machine highly enough. 😀
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I can't recommend a cutting machine highly enough. 😀
Me too! Looks great!
It seems you are solved it already. I wanted to create a SVG file with Inkscape for you, and send it to you for cutting.
The best feature of Inkscape is the automatic reduction of freehand painted lines with <Ctrl>-L 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Frank, that was a very nice thought! I'm slowly getting the hang of Inkscape, it's a massive program but so useful for us. The thought of no more decal nightmares and being potentially able to make any scheme I want is very appealing!
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Little by little I am slowly getting there, painted the rudder and the emblem on the other side of the tail fin. These are just posed on the model, I really wanted to see what it looked like in place. That's the excited kid in me speaking, I need to ignore him and continue at my slow pace and not make any silly mistakes.
I have got an oily thumb print on the red part of the tail flash, what's the best way to remove this? It's just skin oil.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49956002643_7a90b8f2b4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j7rz9p)20200531_175628 (https://flic.kr/p/2j7rz9p) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Not sure what's next, I haven't looked at the instructions for a long time. They're buried in one of the archaeological layers in my man cave. I'd best dig them out and see what's next. It's nearly time to start stressing about rigging. ;)
Richie
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Richie
A swab just damp with alcohol will remove the oil.
Yeah, my excited kid starts getting out of hand once decals start going on. That's when "what comes next in the build" gives way to "how do I get the next color on." That excited kid will make you a job of work if you don't sit on him...hard sometimes.
sp
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A swab just damp with alcohol will remove the oil.
... and some sometimes the paint ... be careful!
Looks nice,
Frank
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Very impressed indeed with the fin marking Richie. I cannot understand why you are concerned about being stressed with the rigging as there is not a great deal on this machine - they were relatively simple compared with some other types!
Looking very good indeed now that you have markings on the fuselage.
Stephen/
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Lovely work on the Tripe, Richie.
Good luck with the final stages of your build.
Rig away!
Cheers,
vB ;)
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Thanks chaps, I might just mist another coat over the oily fingerprint, the thought of possibly stripping the paint is not a pleasant one!
I've only rigged 1 model before (WNW Eindecker) and found it quite awkward due to the CA glue taking so long to set. I also missed a few lines where I hadn't planned it very well. I'll see if I can post pics of it in the completed builds sections.
Got to dash, got online guitar students all afternoon. Will be back to grabbing whatever moments I can between lessons for a while. Might help with the rigging, one line at a time and no rigging fatigue syndrome. :)
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Excellent work with the masks! It's much more rewarding to see the markings take shape when you've painted them than when you've used decals, I think. My biggest problem is that I'm too quick on the ball, and tend to remove the masks too quickly causing damage in the process.
/Fredrik
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I can't remember seeing anyone make such great strides in their Modeling in such a short time! You are doing exceptional work and I am sure the rigging will be No Different!
RAGIII
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Thanks so much!
Fredrik, I agree completely it is so rewarding peeling the masks off to reveal freshly painted markings. I also get over eager and remove them too soon sometimes. It's just so tempting! Recently I've been taping parts down to a board before masking and spraying. I then put the board well out of the way so I can't be tempted. The only problem is that I find leaving them on too long causes problems too. :)
Rick that is a very kind compliment, it means so much to me. You have been so supportive to me since I joined this year. A lot of my improvements are a direct result of this. I can't thank you enough!
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Well, that’s an amazing triplane. No one could look at your works with a merciful eye, as you call yourself a „beginner“ (2nd ever build log). No, that’s the work of a real pro! ;)
Andreas
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Andreas, that is so kind of you! I hope to press on and complete this one after all the encouragement and advice I have had. What a great forum this is! :)
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Richie,
I'll add my compliments as well, your skills have improved to a remarkable level in record time, this Tripe is a very fine model! It's nice to see someone like yourself join the group, reap the benefits, and produce such remarkable results in such a short time. It's also inspiring to see how much you're enjoying it all!
Cheers,
Lance
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Lance, thanks so much for the compliment. I remember your kindness from my first build. I was struggling and felt so intimidated by the WNW Camel but you and the rest of the group kept me encouraged and advised me to put it to one side for a while. I've learned a lot from following the builds on this forum. There's plenty more to learn so I'll keep smiling, making mistakes and hopefully learning from them.
There's a long way to go with this one still, I must avoid switching into little boy modelling mode and rushing it at the end. As a 10 year old I once completely built and painted an Airfix B29 in an afternoon so I could show my Dad how clever I was when he got home from work. I can still hear his laughter! :)
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You're doing a great job on this, Richie. Keep forging ahead.
I have never built a perfect model (came close a couple of times in the last 20 years).
I constantly keep in mind that great modelers recover from and learn from the mistakes.
If you can't undo the mistake, hide it. ;D
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just been catching up on this thread, every model takes the modeler on a journey and this is no different. Lovely work so far and i look forward to seeing it progress
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Thanks Ken and Early Bird Fan, I very much appreciate your interest and kindness!
Not a great deal to report, the weather has been glorious in the UK so rather than sit in the man cave I have been in the garden having a few mammoth whittling sessions. Although I have a stunning wooden prop from Alex at Proper Plane I just fancied being outdoors.
For the first prop I went old school and taped the kit prop to a blank, drew round it and carved. I was in a hurry with this one so used CA glue to glue the veneers together.
For the next two I scanned the kit prop and used my cutting machine make the profile and glued with proper wood glue. These carved much better!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49960895473_9fc39f42a0.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j7SDBx)20200601_224018 (https://flic.kr/p/2j7SDBx) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I used wood stain to darken the props before coating in suoer thin CA glue and buffing with a finger nail polisher. I got the idea for coating with CA from Rodgers guitar machine heads which are the finest you can buy. The finish on them is amazing!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49971833632_a1fcf0137e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8QH9u)Triplane Props (https://flic.kr/p/2j8QH9u) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
As you can see the results are variable, I like the shape of the top one but I drilled the hole for the prop shaft off centre and it is a bit undersized.
The second was made with all one kind of veneer but I seem to have been on the rum and made one blade much smaller than the other, not sure how that happened!
The bottom one I like, it's nowhere near the level of the one from Proper Plane but it's my own work and as I made all the markings myself I may as well use my home made prop too.
The next step is to see if I can scratch a boss for it, I have a nice resin one if what I produce is horrible!
Thanks for reading, happy modelling everybody
Richie
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Amazing Richie! Your prop will look fantastic on the Model!
RAGIII
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You have improved on your prop making Richie , totally awesome stuff !
Terri
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Richie,
your prop efforts are starting to turn out nicely. I believe that the more personal effort we apply is better and more enjoyable than the nicest AM parts.
Keep up the inspiring work!
Gaz
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Really nice results on the props Richie, I still marvel at the fact that they are made from paper! Being a "prop-carver" myself I can really appreciate what you've accomplished here, as Gaz has indicated the satisfaction and enjoyment provided by our own efforts is hard to beat!
Cheers,
Lance
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Super props Richie. As others have written, making your own parts is a very satisfying part of our hobby and you have demonstrated that you can certainly do that well.
Stephen.
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Thanks chaps, I definitely agree with you all. Making your own parts is just so satisfying. I'm becoming a big convert to this way of thinking.
I'm hoping to get this one done soon, no modelling time for me today but the weekend should see Dixie on her wheels, armed and with at least one more set of wings. First job tomorrow is to get the serial number done. Will have to make sure all the characters are lined up properly. Wish me luck!
Have a great weekend everybody
Richie
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Making your own parts is just so satisfying.
Yes!
You made a good progress, and it's good not to trying one part ad rely on it, so with doing more then one you can select the best one for your model and learn a lot at once.
Cheers,
Frank
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A very frustrating day today, I was in the man cave nearly all day but achieved next to nothing.
Applying the letraset style decals drove me nearly crazy. I first tried to mount them as a block on Tamiya tape which ended in disaster. I then resorted to applying each character separately, getting the alignment right was difficult for me but the end result is acceptable but not perfect.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977703873_e687f4110a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9mNax)20200606_211935 (https://flic.kr/p/2j9mNax) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The white rectangle was a little too long so I had to mask with post it notes and spray PC10, unfortunately I lifted some of the characters removing the masks and had to reapply. I also managed to get overspray on the underside that I had carefully weathered to try to reveal the framework. After retouching the underside I spent a few hours trying to get the weathering effect right under the fuselage but didn't manage.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977703868_2dfc2f503b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9mNas)20200606_211949 (https://flic.kr/p/2j9mNas) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Luckily I was using oil paints so this can easily be modified/removed tomorrow. Not a lot to show for virtually a whole day's work but at least it kept me busy.
Richie
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The serial number turned out great in spite of your doubts! Outstanding Model Moving forward at a good pace!
RAGIII
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Nothing wrong with how it turned out Richie , you are making excellent progress and I sure you will have the weathering done more to the direction you wanted . Keep up the excellent progress ! :)
Terri
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Oh those days when we seem to be busy all the time but have nothing to show for it at the end!! Looking at the photos everything looks good to me - but I do appreciate why you feel frustrated. It will be worth it in the end though.
Stephen.
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Thanks Rick, Terri and Stephen, I'm recognising this frustrating feeling now. I think it comes from being near the end of project and little setbacks seeming like so much more than they are. It's time to go back to enjoying the process and having fun correcting any little mishaps, a couple of days away from the bench might do me the power of good now.
I redid the weathering but this time used the airbrush, I added a little MRP PC12 to their CDL colour to add a gradient to the end of each cell before adding a thin coat of CDL to help tie it all together. Burnt sienna oil paint was then added.
Being in a bit of a hurry I didn't mask very well and had a bit of retouching to do to the fuselage sides but managed to damage one of the 9s, this felt like a serious issue at the time but took less than 5 minutes to correct, it really is time for a break!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49980878387_65a470a824.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9D4Qx)20200607_150252 (https://flic.kr/p/2j9D4Qx) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
It's not how I visualised it but this is a much better result than I could have hoped for a few months ago so I'm happy with it.
Thanks for reading, back in a few days.
Richie
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Looks Awesome to Me Richie!
RAGIII
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I'm liking it, too!
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Sorry for missing this build till now. Great work, and I'm amazed by mask making for painting custom livery.
Looking forward to see the completed tripe.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I am not sure why you are not fully satisfied with the model so far Richie, but then it is your model. I would certainly be happy with it!
I agree that sometimes the urge to finish can get the better of us when we are close to completion - that is when our patience is most tried IMHO.
Stephen.
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Thanks for the encouragement chaps, this forum is the best online community I have ever encountered!
Giussepe, the plotting cutter is an amazingly liberating tool. Companies like Montex make a fortune from selling after market masks (and why not?) so the initial expense of buying one will eventually prove to be a good saving in the end. As you say the real beauty is being able to make whatever livery takes your fancy. For me it has quickly become a very important tool because my main interest is making models of aircraft in the Shuttleworth Collection which is one of my favourite places to visit. They have some real gems in their WW1 hangar.
Well progress has been a bit slow but I don't mind that, I was starting to rush and get impatient so took some time off. Dixie II is now on her legs which was a simple enough task, The main struts just click into place so I just put them on dry to use as a jig before assembling the rest to ensure I got everything in alignment. The tail feathers are just held on with tape for the photograph.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49995293986_c16917c84f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jaUX6m)20200611_165112 (https://flic.kr/p/2jaUX6m) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I need to start rigging now and have yet to decide how to go about it. I have a package en route from Greece but I may just keep things very simple and go without any kind of turnbuckle. As for rigging material I am still unsure of what to use, I have fishing line, EZ line and tinned copper wire in the appropriate gauges. I used the copper wire on the internal braces and it worked beautifully, EZ line would be easier in some ways due to not having to measure so precisely and fishing line also worked well for the internal control wires.
My worries are copper wire may get kinked whilst gluing and needs to be the exact length. EZ line sometimes has not glued well for me but if I could get my CA glue to set quickly it would be perfect. Fishing line needs be under tension so probably needs eyelets and tensioners made from brass tube.
I will experiment with all three before deciding but if anybody has any advice I would really appreciate it.
Still loving it but being cautious in case my inner 9 year old plastic wrecker comes out to play.
Thanks for reading
Richie
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I am afraid that I cannot offer much help with the rigging Richie as I have so little experience in this scale. However the model looks excellent -just keep the 9 year old nipper under control!!
Stephen.
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Despite of all the drawbacks you went through and fixed, it remains a great model and I also cannot see any imperfections...
Andreas
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A model that tests your ability is a model that stays long in the memory.
You will remember the Tripe, and so you should!
Coming together beautifully ;)
vB
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" EZ line sometimes has not glued well for me but if I could get my CA glue to set quickly it would be perfect."
Richie,
Are you/have you used CA Accelerator? I use it regularly on super thin CA during the rigging process and it is a real "life saver".
Cheers,
Lance
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Slow and steady wins the race and you are well in the lead . Well done so far Richie . She is really shaping up beautifully :)
Place a drop of super glue in the mounting hole , dip the one end of the ez-line in accelerator - place in hole and wallya ! ;)
Terri
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Thanks for your words of encouragement Andreas, Stephen and Bob. The support really helps me stay motivated.
Terri and Lance, thanks so much! This may sound odd but I had never heard of CA accelerator before. I believe you have just completely solved the problem for me! I know what I will be ordering from Amazon today then. This makes me very happy! :) :) :)
What a great forum this is!
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CA accelerator comes in handy if the CA is getting old - it takes a long time to set up.
I use mostly fishing line (monofilament) for rigging. If I don't want to use a turnbuckle or a sleeve to tension up a line, I drill a hole in the surface and CA the end in, then cut the line to an appropriate length, tension it gently with tweezers while CAing the other end in the other surface. There's a chance it will pull out if its bumped, but that's a risk I take.
Dixie is looking very good. Coming along nicely. I think you have the color spot on.
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Like Ken I use Fishing line(and Invisible thread). Being too hard headed to try new methods I use the old school method of holes drilled through the wings. What I Love about your Modeling is that you continue to experiment and try New Methods. Good Luck on the rigging. I am certain you will succeed!
RAGIII
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... the plotting cutter is an amazingly liberating tool. Companies like Montex make a fortune from selling after market masks (and why not?) so the initial expense of buying one will eventually prove to be a good saving in the end...
Richie
I very recently took one, now studying the manual and going to test soon.
Wish you luck with riggings, if the model does not need a structural rigging, my choice should be a flat elastic thread such as coarse e-z line or Prym stick elastic. Possibly with Gaspatch terminals, look at Frank (Bughunter) Sopwith Dolphin featuring an excellent RFC rigging.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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People you are all awesome! I have CA accelerator on order and Prym elastic and EZ line for aero flying wires. I will crack on with once it arrives. My bottle of CA glue must be well past it's best. I was holding g the line for a lifetime before it set.
Giuseppe if you need any help with undeestanding the software I will do my best to help but I think Bughunter and Faf are better at this than me.
Happy Friday everybody have a great weekend. I will be back with an update when my order arrives and the rigging is underway.
Richie
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Richie,
Looking good! Rigging is always a bit of a nightmare, but I can't imagine doing it with wire. I started with EZ line, then switched to monofilament. The main reason i got away from EZ line was that if you got a twist in it, photos showed them very well.
Good luck!
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Thanks Gazza, yes I'm a bit concerned about twisting the EZ line but the flat shape is appealing for the flying wires. I will have a play when my new CA glue and accelerator get delivered. Until then there's nothing really I can do to this one. I might revisit my Camel, I have some appalling work on the decals to sort out on that one but have already made the masks. Having a very lazy rum soaked weekend to celebrate Mrs W's birthday.
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I was some days away and offline and you made a good progress in between! Nice approach for the weathering of the linen.
Regarding rigging material I think the EZ-Line is a bit small (or there are different sizes? at least the one I own).
The WNW manual says about the "RAF Aerodynamical wires" a size of 0.1x0.3mm! I can't recommend a material of such a size, because this is not my scale, but I think I saw a flat fishing line once.
Good luck,
Frank
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Hi chaps, not a lot of real progress on the model but Dixie is a triplane at last, you can see from all the Tamiya tape that she really preferred being a monoplane. I always thought I had misaligned something early in the build that would come back to haunt me but everything looks nicely lined up now.
Due to the pandemic my package from Greece still has not arrive so I made a start on the rigging without any turnbuckles. After many experiments folks I went with Prym knitting in elastic for the flying wires. This stuff has a flat profile and seems to glue well so far. I coloured it by dragging over a silver sharpie held in vice, i felt a bit like early man making fire. :)
My tinned copper wire experiments produced truly appalling results, it's not a method I will be exploring again for a very long time!
A new bottle of CA glue and Zip kicker are proving to be the answer to my rigging problems, great advice as ever from Terri and Lance.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50020422476_4d2c9b66f2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jd8JVb)2020-06-18_09-13-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2jd8JVb) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I'm feeling less intimidated by rigging now so hopefully I can get this one finished soon.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement along the way.
Richie
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Looks good...and close to completion!
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Thanks Gazza, I'm getting near to completion but I a tually feel sad that this project is nearly done. This has been the most rewarding modelling experience I have had so far. Part of me wants it to go on forever but most of me wants to actually finish a build this year!
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This rigging thing is testing! I had a few accidents today due to a bad shaky hands day (tendon problems) and one of the struts became detached after knocking Dixie off my jig hence the taped wing. This is as far as I got today, some of the lines have behaved very well and glued first time others just didn't want to play at all. Is this normal?
I'm leaving it here for tonight and hope my hands settle down again tomorrow. I'm going to have to carefully remove a few areas of excess CA glue and do some touch ups but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it now. If no major problems occur I might be able to post my first ever completed build soon. I'm excited!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50023126148_ac7f2f6a50.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jdnACd)20200619_211101 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdnACd) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks for looking in, have a great weekend everybody.
Richie
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Richie,
You are doing exceptionally well on this Build, and as to .........
"I'm leaving it here for tonight and hope my hands settle down again tomorrow."
....... that's exactly the correct approach.
We all have those days, and I find the best remedy is "walk away", it's amazing how these obstacles shrink overnight.
Good luck with the completion and I'll bet the next session is a really good one!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance, you're a great source of encouragement and advice. I'm really pleased with the biplane jig you suggested I might buy. I can't even begin to imagine how I would have got some of these lines attached without it. I'm hoping for that great session tomorrow, or Sunday or whenever it comes along. I'm not setting myself any deadlines any more. I found that to be a road that doesn't go anywhere worth visiting. :)
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Slow and stead will win the race Richie . Don't rush ...you are doing one very fine job on this build ;)
Terri
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Don't despair, with each rigging you will gain more experience and you will act more easily. As so often - practice makes perfect.
Good luck,
Frank
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Thanks Terri and Frank, you are both so right. I have now added all of the flying wires. Each one was definitely easier than the one before, the first few were very stressful but I have found myself enjoying the process now. I'm going to stop for the day now, just one little victory each day is enough for me. I'm determined not to mess up so close to the finish line.
All I have left to do is add the control horns and ailerons and rudder, I must remember to add the propeller to the Rotherham pump too and it will be finished. I popped my home carved prop on for the photos but I think I will use the one I bought from Proper Plane which is so much more refined.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50029180137_e434d381cf.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jdUCgk)20200621_113353 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdUCgk) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50028379338_72fcd7a489.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jdQwds)20200621_113431 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdQwds) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
All comments, criticism and advice very gratefullly received.
Richie
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Very nice rigging so far Richie ;) Im impressed how quickly you catch on with the tips that you get to move forward on your projects :)
Terri
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The rigging looks great Richie!
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This will be a nice Triplane! The end of the project seems to be near ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Terri, Frank and Gazza. I had another burst of enthusiasm today and decided to go ahead and finish it. Unfortunately I made an unfortunate discovery. The lower wing ailerons that have part of the roundel didn't have part of the roundel. The middle wing ailerons did though! Not a big deal, I did the necessary repainting easily enough and set to gluing on the control horns. A fine time for one to ping out of the tweezers and get devoured by the carpet monster. I raised the other triplane in my stash for the missing part and will sort out making a new one when I need to.
I decided that was probably time to stop so the next installment will hopefully be the one where I complete my first build of the year.
Thanks for reading.
Richie
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I am catching up on all of the builds and Must say your Triplane and the rigging are looking Amazing! Very well done Richie!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, hope you're enjoying a bit of California sunshine.
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Thanks Rick, hope you're enjoying a bit of California sunshine.
I am back in the NC. Mountains as of Yesterday evening! California was Nice but way too Hot for Me. Averaged 96 degrees F. over the 4 days :o
RAGIII
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That's scorching! Thankfully we don't get those temperatures very often in London. But we are due a heatwave in the next few days, we won't see 96 degrees though.
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That's scorching! Thankfully we don't get those temperatures very often in London. But we are due a heatwave in the next few days, we won't see 96 degrees though.
When I pulled into My Driveway at home it was a Pleasant 74 degrees ;D
RAGIII
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So nearly done, I have only 2 more lower wing control wires to add. :)
The forward control wires will need painting, if it goes like the tail end wire painting went there will be a few touch ups required and I have just enough of my home brewed PC10 mix left for it. I may get the chance to finish it this evening but Mrs W is wanting me to light the BBQ and pour some wine so perhaps it had better wait until tomorrow.
Will post in completed models in the next day or so. This has been the most rewarding model I have ever made, including the 1/72 Spitfire in a polythene bag my Dad bought me 50 years ago.
Thanks so much for all the advice and encouragement along the way, you guys are all awesome!
Richie
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50037686811_5d9d8ec719.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jeEe18)20200623_175440 (https://flic.kr/p/2jeEe18) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50037145233_9d957b01c2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jeBs1z)20200623_175332 (https://flic.kr/p/2jeBs1z) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50037146983_889957f48b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jeBswK)20200623_175409 (https://flic.kr/p/2jeBswK) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
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I really like this bird! Richie, you made a good job and it looks very common to the museums machine.
Cheers,
Frank
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This is certainly a build to be Proud of Richie! You have Mastered Many techniques in a short time and the results are the proof!!
RAGIII
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An excellent result Richie - you may have learned a lot on the way but you have also proved that you are a very good student! Looking forward to seeing pictures of the completed model.
Stephen.
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Thanks Frank, Rick and Stephen, I couldn't resist popping back to the bench to finish it.
Rick, without your constant support I don't think I would have finished this one.
Frank, your awesome work is a constant source of inspiration. I can see I will have to buy a soldering iron now. With lockdown finally easing here I may be able to visit the museum again soon. I might even get to see the real Dixie II in the air. :)
Stephen, I really hope to be a good pupil of the mysterious art of scratch building soon. You may have to be a very patient teacher!
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Bravo! It's always great when you know you're almost done.
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I tip my hat Richie ( my Dad's old ball cup ) , I really like how the effect turned out on the struts , blends so well with the rest of the scheme ....This is eye candy Richie :) looking forward to the final pic's 8)
Terri
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Great work! Nice plane, nice colours, nice painting, etc... A job well done indeed!
/Fredrik
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Very nice work Richie! The Tripehound looks just like a Tripehound should. ;D Very well done!
Best tregards,
Bob
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Thanks Gazza, Terri, Fredrik and Bob, it feels great to have actually got one across the line at last!
I have now added it the completed models section, time for a little celebratory cold beer. ;D
Richie
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Persistence pays off! Great result, Richie.
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Thanks Ken, I may to have to pick your brains about scratch building soon if that's ok.