forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on March 21, 2020, 08:40:14 PM
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Hi all,
The last few models I've built, including the Macchi M.5 I'm currently working on, have all proved to be a challenge in one way or another.
So while I'm waiting for decals to arrive, I thought I'd start on what will effectively be an 'out of the box' (OOB) build, mainly due to there being no information available on this one-off prototype.
The aircraft is the very small Port Victoria P.V.7 'Grain Kitten', a resin kit from 'Planet Models'.
In an attempt to break the stalemate on the Western Front, the German Imperial Navy commenced air raids on England, first against military then later civilian targets.
The first attack came on the night of 19th January 1915 when the German Zeppelin L3 attacked and bombed Great Yarmouth on the Norfolk coast, resulting in the death of two civilians.
That same night another Zeppelin attacked Kings Lynn and two more people died.
Public outrage provoked the government to introduce measures to counter the Zeppelin air raids, however anti-aircraft guns proved ineffective, as the airships flew too high and were able to shut down their engines and glide, making detection from the ground extremely difficult.
The Admiralty put forward the idea that aircraft, launched from decks on ships or from floating and towed pontoons, could intercept and destroy the airships over the sea, preventing the wreckage falling over land and causing more damage and casualties.
This prompted designs for lightweight fighters that were capable of being ‘sea’ launched.
The Port Victoria P.V.7 ‘Grain Kitten’ was a prototype fighter designed and built by the Port Victoria Marine Experimental Aircraft Depot on the Isle of Grain.
The aircraft was a very small and light weight tractor biplane, intended to fulfil the Admiralty requirements and was designed by W.H. Sayers.
The wings were of the ‘sesquiplane’ configuration, the lower wing being much smaller than the upper wing.
The wings featured the same high-lift section as used in previous Port Victoria aircraft and were fitted with ailerons only on the upper wing.
It was intended to use a 45 hp (34 kW) geared ABC Gnat two-cylinder air-cooled engine and the armament was a single Lewis gun mounted above the upper wing.
The P.V.7 first flew on 22 June 1917, powered by a 35 hp (26 kW) ABC Gnat engine, as the intended engine was not available.
The official trials took place on the 6th of October 1917 but the P.V.7 proved to be tail heavy in the air and difficult to handle on the ground and the sesquiplane layout and high lift wings were c onsidered not to be suitable for such a small aircraft.
In addition, the Gnat engine proved to be extremely unreliable, with test flights being forced to remain within gliding distance of an airfield, in case of engine failure.
The P.V.7 was rebuilt with new wings of conventional aerofoil section, a modified tail and a new undercarriage to eliminate some of the problems found in testing.
However, the low power and unreliability of the Gnat engine prevented the P.V.7 being suitable for its intended use and the P.V.7 was never flown again after it was rebuilt.
In June 1917 the German military stopped using Zeppelins for bombing raids over Britain.
Although a tremendous psychological weapon, they had actually caused little damage to the war effort.
Of 115 Zeppelins built, 77 had either been shot down or otherwise totally disabled.
Instead, air raids continued but using aircraft, such as the Gotha.
Crew: One
Length: 14 ft 11 in (4.55 m)
Upper wingspan: 18 ft 0 in (5.49 m)
Lower wingspan: 12 ft 7 in (3.84 m)
Height: 5 ft 3 in (1.60 m)
Wing area: 85 sq ft (7.9 m2)
Empty weight: 284 lb (129 kg)
Gross weight: 491 lb (223 kg)
Engine: ABC ‘Gnat’ air cooled two-cylinder horizontally-opposed piston engine, 35 hp (26 kW)
Performance:
Maximum speed: 85 mph (137 km/h, 74 kn) at 6,500 ft (2,000 m)
Service ceiling: 11,900 ft (3,600 m)
Time to altitude: 22 min to 10,000 ft (3,000 m)
Armament:
A single .303 inch Lewis machine gun, located above upper wing.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/header.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/PV-2.jpg)
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This should prove to be a nice change from the usual Aircraft we see. I am looking forward to your build.
RAGIII
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Mike,
This will be fun to watch. It looks like a 3/4 scale, home built, biplane you might see at an Experimental Aircraft Association fly-in.
Kevin
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Looking forward to following this, have seen a few of your completed buillds and am hugely impressed!
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Another of your interesting builds. If you decide to add any details at least there will be no-one to contradict you because so little is recorded about this machine!
One thing we can be certain of though is that the finished model will be a real cracker!! (No pressure of course).
Stephen.
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I'll be following as usual with great interest Mike;I have one of these stashed away too,a very interesting experiment in design and a cute looking little aircraft.
Dave.
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Interesting subject Mike , tagging along ...
Terri
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Hi Mike,
I think another build to follow, so I will seat on the couch, grab a beer and enjoy.
There is a replica of the P.V.8 in North Yorkshire Museum, I don't think if it can be useful or not.
There is a 1/72 resin kit from HR that has same color profile as Planet on the box.
Cheers,
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
In fact there were two aircraft built by Port Victoria for the Admiralty design.
The P.V.7 'Grain Kitten', but also the P.V.8 'Eastchurch Kitten'.
The P.V.8 was partially built at the RNAS Experimental Flight at Eastchurch and was design by the Chief Technical Officer, G.H. Millar.
Later it was moved to the Isle of Grain to be completed.
It was similar to the P.V.7 in size and performance and like the P.V.7 carried a single Lewis machine gun above the upper wing.
The engine was intended to be the 45 hp (34kW) ABC Gnat engine, however like the 'P.V.7 it was first fitted with the less powerful 35 hp (26 kW) ABD Gnat engine.
It first flew in September 1917 but found to be unstable in flight so was modified with a revised tail plane and elevators.
It proved to be superior to the P.V.7 but also suffered similar engine reliability problems.
Like the P.V.7 it was considered to be unsuitable for its intended roll.
However it was packed ready to be shipped to the USA for evaluation in March 1918, although whether it was actually sent is uncertain.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/pv8.jpg)
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Hi all,
Well, when I said a basic 'out of the box (OOB)' build, what I really meant was -------------------------
The upper wing ailerons are moulded as part of the wing.
The kit has no resin or photo-etch control horns.
So I've removed the two ailerons and sanded the leading edges to a more rounded profile.
I created a slit indent on both sides of the ailerons, then drilled through a 0.3 mm diameter hole.
Into the holes and indent I fitted photo-etch control horns from the 1:48th scale PART set.
Three holes of 0.3 mm diameter were drilled through the wing (x1) and ailerons (x2) for the control wires.
Now onto the tail plane/elevators and the fin/rudder,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prep3.jpg)
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I had noticed this kit in Planet's lineup. Glad you are showing it here.
That is one small plane.
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OOB ;D Nice work on the ailerons and control horns!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The elevators are supplied as separate parts,but are intended to be just glued directly to the tail plane.
The parts have been moulded very thin so that would be way to weak a joint.
Also, again, the kit has no resin or photo-etch control horns.
So I've modified the elevators in a similar way as I did for the ailerons.
The exception being the holes for the control horns are 0.5 mm diameter and the holes and rods for attaching the elevators to the tail plane are 0.3 mm diameter.
Now onto the fin/rudder,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prep4.jpg)
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Hi all,
I've modified the tail plane, fin and rudder in a similar manner to the other flight control surfaces,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prep5.jpg)
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Continued excellence!
RAGIII
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Mike
I am real impressed with the brass rods. It would seem disaster lurks behind a fraction of a mm if the hole or the pin is slightly off. Do you install the pins and then use them to mark locations for the holes? Or is there a secret magic method of getting it right?
Nosy modelers want to know.
sp
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No secret really - just a good drill and a steady hand.
That said this resin kit has been moulded particularly thin, so much so I could see the drill turning inside the resin.
Of course one false move and either the drill will break through or the resin break or both.
To answer your question I point mark the hole location then hand drill to the required depth, constantly clearing the drill, otherwise the cut resin can build up and cause damage or bind the drill, which may break in the hole.
I first drill and add the rods, then lay that part against the receiving part and mark the rod positions.
As the rods are only 0.3 mm in diameter there is a certain amount of 'bend' you can impart if the parts need their alignment 'tweaking',
Mike
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No secret really - just a good drill and a steady hand.
I was afraid you would say that. :-)
By Point mark, do you break the surface of the resin like with the point of a blade? I have noticed my drill bits tend to wander off mark as I try to start a hole in resin.
sp
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I use a metal pointer to make a centre point location for the hole.
The drill will follow the indent and not wander off-line,
Mike
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Thanks Mike. I'm going to cast about for something sufficiently hard and sharp to use. Maybe a T pin would be sharp enough, symmetrical and relatively easy to handle.
I appreciate the advice and I am enjoying watching your work.
sp
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As Rick has written - continued excellence. With some useful tips thrown in on the way....
Stephen.
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Thanks Mike. I'm going to cast about for something sufficiently hard and sharp to use. Maybe a T pin would be sharp enough, symmetrical and relatively easy to handle.
I appreciate the advice and I am enjoying watching your work.
sp
Do a search for 'pointed etching tool' - that's the type I use,
Mike
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Found and ordered a likely candidate on Amazon:
2PC Carbide Scribe with pocket clip MARKING Etching Measuring Tool on Metal Glass
I had about given up trying to drill holes in precise locations. Thanks again Mike.
sp
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Just the job :)
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Hi all,
Pilot ('Copper State Models') assembled and primed, ready for painting.
He doesn't look too impressed having to fly in the 'Kitten',
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/pilot1.jpg)
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Great start Mike, will be nice to see the figure next to the plane. Will be like a tall person next to a Mini Cooper. ;D ;D ;D
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Looks to be an excellent figure. I am looking forward to seeing it painted!
RAGIII
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Looks rather intimidated. Probably flown a Kitten before.
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Hi all,
The lower wings are intended to just 'butt' joint against the fuselage sides.
Not good, so I've added 0.8 mm diameter rod into the lower wing halves.
The longer rod passes through the fuselage and into the lower wing on the opposite side.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingpin1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingpin2.jpg)
Also the cockpit has been completed as far as possible as there is no information available.
The seat has been replaced with a 'Barracuda' wicker seat and cushion.
'HGW Models' seat belts fitted and instrument decal from 'Airscale' used.
Rudder control lines from 0.2 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.4 mm Aluminium tube.
Switch wire added from 'PlusModel' 0.2 mm diameter wire.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/cockpit6.jpg)
I'll be moving back onto the Macchi M.5 build now, so this build will be on hold for now,
Mike
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Hi all,
If you think the cockpit is small and somewhat cramped, here's a shot of the replica Port Victoria P.V.8 'Eastchurch Kitten'.
This is being ground run at the Yorkshire Air Museum at Elvington, near York in the UK.
This is similar in size and concept to the P.V.7 'Grain Kitten'.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/pv8replica.jpg)
Mike
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First, Really well done work on the seat and the rest of the interior. It looks Typically British! I am also amazed at just How Small this thing was. Looks like a 1/2 scale RC aircraft with a live Pilot 8)
RAGIII
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Oh my, that cocpit detail is just stunning.
Stephen.
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Hi all,
Now the Macchi M.5 model is finished I'm going back to continue working on the Port Victoria PV.7 'Grain Kitten'.
It'll be a totally different mindset as the Macchi was one of the largest models I've built to date and the 'Kitten' will probably be the smallest model I'll ever build in this scale.
It's another resin model and will doubtless have the usual challenges of a 'limited run' kit.
The main areas that take the time are usually the cockpit and engine.
However, as I've already finished the cockpit and there is no visible engine to speak of, the build shouldn't take that long to complete - we'll see,
Mike
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Hi all,
The four wing support struts supplied in the kit do not have internal support rods, as the upper wing, although solid resin, is small and therefore light weight.
Normally I would use the kit supplied struts. However one of the struts was missing the locating pin at one end.
Possibly it could have been drilled and pinned, but I decided to replace all four struts with micro-tube and internal support rods.
As before, I used the 'Strutter' tool to create aerofoil sections from 1.2 mm diameter micro-tube with internal 0.5 mm rod supports.
The rods were soft soldered in the aerofoils sections,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts.jpg)
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Hi all,
The four wings struts have been test fitted.
Now it's on to making the four fuselage to upper wing cabane struts,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts4.jpg)
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Your usual awesome work on the struts Mike!
RAGIII
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Brilliant work on the struts, can I ask how you measure the strut length so precisely? I'm planning a scratch built BE2c but am a little overwhelmed by the technicalities.
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Hi Richie,
It's not too difficult to create struts if you have the tools and the model has struts that can be used as a size and shape guide.
Of course if you're making a scratch built model you'd need good scale drawings and reference material to work from.
The scale of the model you intend to build will have a bearing on whether it's possible of course - I work in 1:32nd scale so it's not too much of an issue, but smaller scales, especially 1:72nd could prove difficult.
The 'Strutter' tool I use is basically a pair of smooth faced vice jaws that are aligned with metal dowels. As you close the vice the jaws will tip around the tube and form an oval aerofoil type shape.
Basically I cut the required tube to just longer than the length required (using the kit item as a guide) then slide it onto a solid but smaller diameter rod.
That rod is suspended across the two metal dowels in the 'Strutter', which once closed forms the aerofoil section.
That section is the filed to the required length and the ends shaped as necessary.
After that the support rod, which is longer than the aerofoil, is inserted and soft soldered at both ends.
Then it a just a matter of cleaning off any residual solder.
The protruding rods can then be filed down to locate fully into the pre-drilled location holes in the model and if necessary, bent to the correct angle to get the strut to position correctly.
The thing most needed for your scratch build would be good reference drawings so you can use them as a size and shape guide. Upscale the drawings to the size of the model you intend to build and go from there.
There are PDF build logs on my site that detail how I created struts for various models:
Fokker D.VIII (EV), skeletal Fokker D.VII, Sopwith 'Swallow, Macchi M.5 and SPAD XIII,
Mike
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Thank you so much for your detailed explanation. I've been wondering how you manage such amazing precision! I will have a look at your PDF files, the Tripe build log has been so useful to me.
Many thanks
Richie
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Hi all,
The four fuselage to upper wing cabane struts have now been created, using the same method as for the four inter plane struts.
Being resin and small, the upper wing tends to flex slightly in the centre section, which is why it is slightly clear of the cabane struts.
When finally fitted it will seat fully onto the struts,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts10.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts11.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingstruts12.jpg)
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Excellent strut work Mike! You are moving right along!
RAGIII
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Cool stuff. I always found creating brass struts that fit in length one of the most demanding tasks building biplanes. and you obviously did the job perfectly.
Andreas
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Brilliant, that's brought a smile to my face. I love following your builds, were you an engineer in a previous life? Your work is always so precise and beautifully thought out!
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Hi Richie,
I was a toolmaker/instrument maker before I joined the RAF, so yeah, sort of,
Mike
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I thought you must have been! :)
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Hi all,
The only weapon intended to be fitted to this aircraft was a Lewis machine gun, fitted over the centre cut-out of the upper wing.
However there are no photographs or details of this weapon fitted to the PV.7 and the kit does not supply any weapons for this model.
The only comparison I could find were photographs of a Lewis machine gun fitted on the Port Victoria PV.8, the ‘Eastchurch Kitten’.
The Lewis machine gun fitted to the PV.8 was offset to the right, presumably to allow easier access to the cockpit for the pilot.
As can be seen on the following photographs of the PV.7, there is what appears to be the front mounting for a Lewis machine gun, located on the forward centre line of the wing.
Therefore I decided to fit an aftermarket gun. In this instance it was the Lewis Mk.II (13-32056) from ‘Gaspatch’.
I drilled through the pivot mounting point of the Lewis, then modified a swivel mount from my spares box.
That was also drilled through and a 0.4 mm diameter tube was inserted through both to allow the gun to pivot on the mounting.
The front support for the gun is 0.5 mm diameter tube, secured into the upper wing then flattened with pliers.
Mike
Port Victoria PV.8 'Eastchurch Kitten' (Ser No.540).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/pv8.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/pv82.jpg)
Port Victoria PV.7 'Grain Kitten' (Ser No.539).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/gunmount1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/gunmount2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/gunmount4.jpg)
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The MG will add a nice touch Mike! I can't help but notice how Rough the fabric/ dope looks on the real bird.
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The undercarriage strut assembly has been fitted.
I had to shorten the span of the axle fairing as it was too long, causing the two undercarriage struts to spread too far apart at the bottom.
This meany cutting off the pre-moulded stub axles, so those were added afterwards using 0.5 mm diameter rod.
Another problem is that the material used to mould the undercarriage parts seems to be neither styrene or normal resin.
Whatever it is the finish is moulded smooth and hard and the parts will not join using CA adhesive.
In the end I resorted to using two part epoxy adhesive, which did the trick,
Locating holes needed to be drilled into the underside of the fuselage as they're were none,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/undercarriage.jpg)
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Hi all,
Thought it was about time for an update.
The model has now been primed and painted, using 'AK Interactive' white primer and filler, 'Hataka' lacquers and 'Tamiya' acrylic paints.
Once painted it was sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer, then given a coat of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash.
This was removed as desired to leave a weathered effect then re-sealed with the 'Alclad' lacquer.
Now it's onto pre-rigging before fitting the upper wing.
Then I'll be final rigging,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/washdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/washdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/washdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/washdone4.jpg)
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I have been catching up Mike and I am very impressed as usual by your minute attention to detail. Very impressive indeed.
Stephen.
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Nicely done as always. Love the subtle weathering!
RAGIII
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Great work as always Mike, love the weathered effect you've achieved with the Flory wash.
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Hi all,
The fun begins.
Pre-rigged flying, landing and strut cross bracing wires for the wings.
Also the two aileron control lines from the cockpit into the underside of the upper wing,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prerig1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prerig2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/prerig3.jpg)
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Looking good Mike! I read somewhere that this is a limited run kit and not the easiest to build. You are making a fine job of it. The colors and construction look top notch.
Best regards,
Bob
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Hi Bob,
It's strange the these types of kit are called 'limited runs'.
It implies they'll not be available after the 'limited' stock of kits have all gone.
I think in reality it means they're not always in stock and readily available - as resin kits, they may need to be made to order.
Traditionally 'limited run' kits were intended to be fairly basic with the modeller having to add or modify the kit to bring it up to standard.
Whichever, this kit certainly needs some attention!!
Mike
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As always great work on the rigging Mike!
RAGIII
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I See your kitten's whiskers have grown longer ;)
Terri
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Hi all,
I've now rigged the wings and undercarriage.
Not as easy as I'd thought - small model and resin.
Anyway now it's onto the ailerons and tail unit,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/wingsrigged.jpg)
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Looks Fantastic Mike!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Rigging complete.
Just the windscreen, Lewis machine gun, engine, propeller and spinner to go.
Getting there,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/contrigdone6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/contrigdone8.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/contrigdone7.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/contrigdone9.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/contrigdone10.jpg)
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Your Usual Outstanding Rigging work Mike!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The engine and propeller are now finished.
As the kit only supplied the two cylinders and induction pipes, I added the two valve push rods (0.3 mm Nickel-Silver tube) an an ignition lead (0.3 mm lead wire) to each cylinder.
The propeller was base coated with 'Tamiya' Deck Tan (XF55) then given two coats of 'DecoArt' acrylic oil paint (Burnt Umber).
Finally it was airbrushed with 'Alclad Semi-Matte lacquer (ALC-312) mixed with 'Tamiya' Clear Orange (X26).
Just the windscreen, pilot figure and display base left now,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PV7/propon.jpg)
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Nice!
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Beautiful prop and engine work Mike!
RAGIII
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Outstanding work Mike! The front end really looks the part. Well done. ;D
Best regards,
Bob
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Superb Mike, prop looks amazing. All the little engineering details you add always bring a smile to my face and amazing realism to your models.
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That propellor looks like real wood.
Stephen.
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Those cylinders look like they actually work! Nice finish on the other bits as well.
/Fredrik
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Hi all,
The Lewis machine gun, wind screen and pilot figure have been finished, along with the display base.
That wraps up this build, which is now up in the 'Completed Models'.
Thanks for coming along for the ride and for your encouraging comments.
A final note - this aircraft was intended to be launched from floating pontoons or from ship mounted platforms, intercept Zeppelins then ditch in the English Channel.
Then the pilot was supposed to get out of this tiny aircraft, after ditching in the sea, probably at night - brave men indeed,
The next model will be a Siemens-Schuckert D.III.
Mike