Author Topic: Roden's 1/48 Ni-28 (Read 2599 times)

KevinM · « **on:** March 09, 2013, 12:17:22 PM »

This no were compares to what you else is being presented on this board but thought I throw it there.I really enjoyed this build and really like rigging

.I had to paint the national insignia since the decals were just to thick and would not conform at all thus started cracking.I think the WWI bug has bitten hard! So many colorful schemes out there definitily looking at Wingnuts kit after the HC Camel.

Des · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2013, 12:37:23 PM »

A beautiful model Kevin and sits perfectly with all the other models shown on the forum. Your painting and decal application is excellent and the rigging looks perfect, this is a very attractive model and one you should be proud of, well done.

Des.

KevinM · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2013, 01:13:08 PM »

Thanks Des this one almost found the trash after three nights of trying to attach that upper wing.This was my first attempt at a wood grain prop I did do a laminate with the paints and it was so-so.I hear and have seen pencils are the ticket.The other thing I might of changed is to go after hard demarcation lines on the camo but I have been tring to learn my gun for these smaller scales.Thanks Again

coyotemagic · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2013, 04:37:47 PM »

Beautiful Nieuport, Kevin. I feel your pain with the decals. I did the same kit in 1/48 scale. Same issues. You did a brilliant job on her.
Cheers,
Bud

Epeeman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2013, 07:49:11 PM »

Kevin,

Your n28 looks great! Decals are not Roden's strong point, so you have done very well to get them on.

Regards

Dave

michael · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2013, 01:30:49 AM »

Great job Kevin very nice

michael

RAGIII · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2013, 01:34:51 AM »

Kevin,
Captain Eddie Would Be Proud! Very nice work! I have this kit in 1/48th and 1/32nd. Although I haven't finished one in 40 years,

the Nieuport 28 is My all time favorite WW1 aircraft!
RAGIII

xmald · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2013, 01:47:09 AM »

Kevin, she`s a true beauty!!! I could only wish I had her on my shelf. Simply gorgeus!

KevinM · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2013, 08:48:40 AM »

Thanks Guys there's room for improvement and the wood grain in the strurts and such is were it is at.Thanks again

uncletony · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:11:40 AM »

Quote from: KevinM on March 10, 2013, 08:48:40 AM

there's room for improvement

I feel pretty safe stating that everybody here will say the same thing about their builds -- we are all learning and refining our craft, otherwise, why bother? Your N28 is a fine looking bird, congrats, keep 'em coming!

KevinM · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2013, 12:54:17 PM »

You know guys i am working on the struts of the Camel and geezz I just do not like the results maybe it's my tactics?Now I was over at the Index page and it looks like you guys oil right onto flat that right?I would assume then it's acrylic?Now I use enamels then futured seemed ok on the prop but not so much in the pit and struts.I am thinking base color is way to dark testors wood and thinking of stripping it all and going back with Hum Light sand /Linen?But do I need to clear?Thanks for any input.

Pete Nottingham · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:43:36 PM »

Hi Kevin,

You are correct in saying that most of us use acrylics, which are matt, we do tend to use a very light base colour, I use Vallejo Sand, but any light colour will do, I don't do anything else to the surface and paint the oils on to the matt surface, for the oils I mix a colour approx to what I want the finished wood to look like then paint it on in the direction of the wood grain, I use a soft flat brush to keep working the oils until a grained look appears then just leave it well alone until the oils dry.

If like me you don't want to wait a week for the oils to dry try using Winsor and Newton Griffin Alkyd fast drying oil paints which will dry over night. HTH.

Cheers

Pete.

RAGIII · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2013, 12:11:22 AM »

My method is very similar to the described in the previous post. One thing I do different is instead of a drying agent I thin with Testors Model Master thinner. This is hot enough to speed up drying time considerably, and I would guess less costly. It takes perhaps 2 days for thorough drying. I can speed that up by putting the parts painted under a 100 watt light bulb, Not too close though

RAGIII

KevinM · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2013, 02:16:12 AM »

Thanks guys for the input.I have set up a test board of plastic this morning to test with I have to much cash tied up in my MM/Humbrol to go acrylic plus my LHS does not carry Tamiya paints but they may have a light sand from MM?This morning buy accident was laying out the light sand with the brush from last night with oils still in it and a pattern kinda started developing?I don't know but will keep experimenting.

GAJouette · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2013, 04:10:14 AM »

Kevin,
My old friend don't sell your talents short . She's Outstanding!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette