forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on July 23, 2017, 07:07:59 PM
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Oh my god! He's doing it again... And I'll be watching... 8)
Borsos
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Incredible work Frank! Like Andreas I will be watching your progress!
RAGIII
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Great start Frank, looking forward to your artistry on this one.
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I'm excited to watch this one! I've seen them fully assembled, but never in process! Best of luck, and you're off to a great start!
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WOW.
I received the FOkker E.III Strip DOwn kit a while back for next to nothing on Ebay and it seems more intimidating than a WnW!!!!
Great work!
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Thank you all!
I received the FOkker E.III Strip DOwn kit a while back for next to nothing on Ebay and it seems more intimidating than a WnW!!!!
Then you should not miss my other thread ;)
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8567.0
Cheers,
Frank
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"The best is, that I build a razor, but there are no discussion about the wing colors ;D"
Good one Frank, but are you going to stain the inside wing components the dark brown talked about in our discussion about wing colours?? ;) ???
Great work so far,what type of soldering iron have you used on this little gem?
Cheers,
Lance
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Superb workmanship on this build and in a small scale, your soldering skills are amazing especially on such tiny parts, very well done Frank.
Des.
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Your skill astounds me with these small parts! I feel that for every kit I do, I ruin at least one PE part. You can get them into whatever shape you want!
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The construction/soldering continue to be impressive! Lovely wood tones on the triangular side panels and wing ribs!
RAGIII
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Thank you for your comments!
Good one Frank, but are you going to stain the inside wing components the dark brown talked about in our discussion about wing colours?? ;) ???
Oh Lance, I guess this would be added in a later state, since my model show a earlier phase of setup ;)
Great work so far,what type of soldering iron have you used on this little gem?
This question I have to answer always, so I have pictures to answer :D
The iron is a cheap 20W, important for me is a real copper-tip.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UR9sstmr71k/U-u4JI0NLuI/AAAAAAAACgU/9LTm9zS5YSQ/s800/Loetkolben.jpg)
Very important is also the flux, which is made from colophony (you can get it in music shop for violin) dissolved in alcohol:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TtDa3_uo5tw/VB857kPfUoI/AAAAAAAACrU/K8mxHCraKPE/s800/kolophonium.jpg)
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Thanks for the quick answers to my questions. I was able to find a cheap soldering iron to try the technique, in this case a 25W was the smallest I could find. I'm looking forward to trying it on a few strut assemblies using brass rod and tube material.
I knew you'd follow through on the brown interior stain, the question was an attempt to test your sense of humour, or as we say in English, "pull your leg" :) ;)
Your work is amazing and your art with soldering has finally inspired me to add that capability to my efforts, if only for small modifications or replacements. Great posts, keep them coming!
Cheers,
Lance
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This is a lesson in master-craftsmanship. Never mind the lack of plastic - modelling can be done using any amount of different materials. I too realy admire your soldering skills - just amazing that your joints are so clean and neat with very little or no excess solder anywhere.
Stephen.
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Wow Frank, your skills with these strip down kits still amaze me (don't know why, when I have seen so many of your wonderful kits).
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Frank,
I am continuing to be blown away by your work on this one! Your skills at soldering and working with this small PE frame are incredible!
RAGIII
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It looks so easy, and fast when you do it. Great job.
Manni
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I can't even begin to come up with superlatives that describe how impressed I am with this build! So just a ::)
RAGIII
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I can't even begin to come up with superlatives that describe how impressed I am with this build! So just a ::)
Thank you RAGIII, and for the next update you will need to fasten your seatbelts ;D
I'm not yet there .... but wild guesses are accepeted ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow, this thread is really awesome, my hat is off to your skills, sir!
As I am heading for my first venture into the soldering kingdom, one question - how do you clean the joints after soldering? Meaning how do you remove the excess of tin?
Cheers
Ondra
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Frank this is truly impressive work. The speed that you have made this is amazing indeed.
I can highly recommend the Small Stuff engines as I used one on my Caudron GIV scratch build. They are tiny and a bit fiddly but the amount of detail is stunning and they build into truly first class replicas. I just wish that there were more engines in the range so that I do not have to keep building them from scratch! This one will fit extremely well to your model.
Stephen.
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Wow, this thread is really awesome, my hat is off to your skills, sir!
As I am heading for my first venture into the soldering kingdom, one question - how do you clean the joints after soldering? Meaning how do you remove the excess of tin?
Such kind words form the master of micro modeling - Thank you!
I gob never with the tin-solder to the model, only a small amount to the soldering rod. The flux is on the model, so I haven't to remove much. If necessary I use a small square file or scraping with a scalpel.
I can highly recommend the Small Stuff engines as I used one on my Caudron GIV scratch build.
Stephen, all my 1/48 models with a rotary engine are equipped with a engine from Small Stuff models, they are fantastic. But this one here is my first 1/72, that is a completely different story!
I just wish that there were more engines in the range so that I do not have to keep building them from scratch!
I have it from a good source: you don't have to wait to long and we will see additonal types to the already nine available ones!
Cheers,
Frank
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I think it works very well, Frank! Great job! I think I need to learn how to make my own props - if I get them anywhere near your work I'd be over the moon.
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Brilliant, Frank, from the prop to the colors and the fuselage assembly. And I question myself: This guy is so fast - is he doing anything else but soldering?
Borsos
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The prop looks very good, so obviously it is working. You definitely made the right choice on the boxwood and pear veneers, as the woodgrain is fine enough to look right even in this small scale. Good job!
One more question on soldering: is there any specific reason why copper tip is crucial?
Cheers
Ondra
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One more question on soldering: is there any specific reason why copper tip is crucial?
Cheers
Ondra
Good conduction and fair corrosion resistance
Why do you ask? I doubt you'll find a soldering iron that doesn't have a copper tip
I have a little Antex iron that I use a lot. Mine is 25W which is good for the sort of stuff I do, you could manage with a smaller iron
Richard
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Well, I do have a soldering iron at my workbench (unfortunately in my other flat, so I can not check it right now) and I am afraid the tip is from a different material.
But this will not be a showstopper, copper tips should be commonly available from any DIY store.
Thanks for the advice!
Ondra
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The prop is Outstanding IMHO! Beautiful work Frank!
RAIII
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Well, I do have a soldering iron at my workbench (unfortunately in my other flat, so I can not check it right now) and I am afraid the tip is from a different material.
Ondra
It is probably silver colour, making it a tinned copper tip
Richard
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Can't see the pics Frank :-\
Guy
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yes all thread - inspiring! But the prop in 72 makes the workers dream:)
regards
K
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Thank you all for the comments! :)
If one day my boss/company don't like me anymore, may be I start then a serial production and sell such air screws. But this is so much effort, I have some doubt, that the work pays off.
One more question on soldering: is there any specific reason why copper tip is crucial?
There are some "life soldering tip", but copper has the best heat transport and there is a better connection between solder and tip. May be the other are working too, but I tried it and was not comfortable to a slightly different behavior. Hard to explain :-\
Can't see the pics Frank :-\
Guy, they are stored at Google, but I noticed sometimes a delayed loading. If the pictures are not there or only partly, try a reload of the page with the browser. Should work!
Cheers,
Frank
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No Frank, the thanks belongs to you. Beautifully done Maestro.
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Here is the link to the completed model:
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8758.0
Cheers,
Frank
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Air screw
The wood veneer is sanded down, partly to 0,3mm. I used the layers pear-boxwood-pear-pear-boxwood-pear.
Beautiful, as all the others have commented. Do you have a suggested source for thin veneer?
Thanks,
Gene K
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Thank you Gene!
I know only veneer between 0.5 .. 0.6mm or thicker.
One example of shops (there are a lof of them):
https://www.furniere-templin.de/
The problem is often, that those pieces are huge. In ebay you can find sometime smaller pieces.
I cut this standard thickness in stripes and sand it down.
For some wood I do not know veneer sources, so I cut my own on a Proxxon KS230, but that have to be sanded after that too, regardless of thickness.
Cheers,
Frank
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Gene,
Frank and I have chatted in the past regarding the sourcing of good quality veneers. He sources his supplies in Europe which is convenient given his location however I was looking for a source closer to home. Another member here provided this source in the USA and I am very pleased with their products;
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
I thin it down just a bit and it's great for the job. Excellent service and reasonably priced. I use their thinnest pear and Alaskan Cedar and am very pleased with the results. Check out their supply, I think you'll like it!
Hope this is helpful and I expect Frank will provide other options as well.
Cheers,
Lance
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Frank,
My apologies, I sort of "stepped on your reply" to Gene but I think he's got a few options to pursue between us. Next time I'll read the newer reply first! :-[
Cheers,
Lance
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Lance, no problem!
The shop you mentioned is great, because it offers more thick veneer (the thinnest is 0.63mm), so the WNW fans have a good source.
In Europe I have not found sources for Boxwood and Alaskan Cedar, both offered there :(
Cheers,
Frank