forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris on February 05, 2021, 08:22:37 AM
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Hi all,
I'm now starting on the 'Wingnut Wings' 1:32 scale model of the Roland D.VIa fighter.
This aircraft was unusual in that its fuselage was clad in overlapping plywood planks, known as ’lapstrake’, which was similar to that used on clinker built boats.
This proved to be as strong, but lighter than existing constructions methods provided, which was an important factor for a fighter aircraft.
Also the lower wings were located under, not into, the lower fuselage.
It's the Roland D.VIa, Serial No: 3615/18 during 1918 (Jasta unknown).
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/header.jpg)
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As always I look forward to your build and what your skills do to improve a great kit!
RAGIII
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Awesome subject choice Mike :)
Alexis
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One I'll follow with great interest Mike, and a very unique scheme, bring it on!
Cheers,
Lance
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Not often seen plane and unique painting scheme: this is a really promising build!
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Great choice and a great build to follow, I'm sure!
/F
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Thank you for choosing of my favourites, Mike, (that I missed, when it was still available..)!
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Beautiful subject Mike. Looking forward to the build.
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Hi all,
A few updates.
I'm working on the fuselage internals and the engine.
The fuselage halves were two-tone, as were the cockpit side frames.
The engine bearer frame was a single colour.
As I normally do, the slight weathering effect was done using the 'Flory Models' dark dirt clay wash.
The rudder, elevator and ailerons control lines were added using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter tubes.
Other detail, such as pipes, seat harness etc will be added after the cockpit assembly is built and before closing up the fuselage.
The next stage, after completing the engine is to assemble the fuselage,
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/pitprep1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/pitprep2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/pitprep3.jpg)
Here's the engine.
As most of the engine won't be seen, it's just the basic engine with the addition of ignition leads and the pipe at the front cylinder.
The replacement exhaust pipe is from 'ReXx',
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/eng1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/eng2.jpg)
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Sweet ! :)
Alexis
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Awesome job on that engine Mike.
The exhaust really will make a difference!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Great progress on this lovely model
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Both interior and engine are coming out nicely Mike! Well done as always!
RAGIII
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That painting of the engine....., I hope someday I'll come close to this kind of painting.
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Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The cockpit structure is now complete and ready to be fitted into the closed up fuselage.
I had to sand the outer surface of the two cockpit side frames and cockpit frames quite a bit, as for some reason the fuselage wouldn't close up fully with the cockpit test fitted.
I know tolerances are tight, especially on WNW kits so I made sure there was no paint etc on any mating faces.
Even so the gap at the underside seam of the fuselage was large, indicating something wasn't fitted correctly.
Everything look correct so I'm not sure where the obstruction was - probably around the fuel tank area.
Anyway, it's sorted and ready to move onto closing up the fuselage,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/pitprep4.jpg)
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Looks Beautiful Mike!
RAGIII
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Brilliant work on the Roland, Mike. One of my favourite WnW kits.
Cheers,
Gary
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Hi all,
The fuselage is now closed up with the cockpit front decking panel fitted.
I'm replacing the kit supplied machine guns with resin equivalent weapons from 'GasPatch'.
These needed to be modified slightly so that would fit down and into the weapon slots in the front decking panel.
This required the removal of the front mounting and synchronizing cable from the underside of the breech blocks.
In addition the lower part of the cocking mechanism on the right side of the left weapon was removed.
Now it's onto preparing the fuselage for the application of the 'ProperPlane' wood effect decal set for this aircraft,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/fus2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/gun1.jpg)
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Looking forward on seeing how you do the prep for the decals ..
Alexis
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Excellent progress Mike!
RAGIII
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Looking good - I’m laying down the Proper Plane decals myself.... I was a bit dubious but they are good and in your hands should look stunning! Cheers Matt
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Lovely Mike,
I always wanted to do this kit, but missed the boat. Great scheme too!
Has anyone done a 1/48 kit of this?
Guy
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Looking good - I’m laying down the Proper Plane decals myself.... I was a bit dubious but they are good and in your hands should look stunning! Cheers Matt
Hi Matt,
How did you find the application of these decals as they're new to me?
They're supposed to be translucent so have you applied any pre-shading on the base coat under the decals?
Mike
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Hi - yes, they’re fairly translucent. I went with a white gloss and then applied flory black wash - the aim was to highlight the nails and it also left a patchy slightly mottled look. It worked quite well - I might think about another wash but will wait to see how it looks after the ‘planking’ effect is added. The main lesson I’ve learnt (too late!) is to mask off those areas you don’t want the decals to attach to - eg there seems to be a bit of overlap and it’s very noticeable when they do crossover as it almost doubles the colour intensity. They are almost impossible to get off once dried ( eg I’m going to have to sand back some of the tail as the main fuselage decals partially covered it (at least before I taped it over for decals 3 and 4). Hopefully this makes sense. Looking forward to seeing how it goes. Cheers Matt
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Hi - yes, they’re fairly translucent. I went with a white gloss and then applied flory black wash - the aim was to highlight the nails and it also left a patchy slightly mottled look. It worked quite well - I might think about another wash but will wait to see how it looks after the ‘planking’ effect is added. The main lesson I’ve learnt (too late!) is to mask off those areas you don’t want the decals to attach to - eg there seems to be a bit of overlap and it’s very noticeable when they do crossover as it almost doubles the colour intensity. They are almost impossible to get off once dried ( eg I’m going to have to sand back some of the tail as the main fuselage decals partially covered it (at least before I taped it over for decals 3 and 4). Hopefully this makes sense. Looking forward to seeing how it goes. Cheers Matt
Thanks Matt - basically what I've found.
I did cut away overlap at the fin and tail skid, but you're right, once they're on, they're on!!
The biggest problem I think is as they're not 'cookie' cut there's no indication for where the fuselage raised detail is, such as access panel and fitting/pulleys.
Consequently when applied you end up with decal standing proud over those area which then need to be cut through to get the air and water out so the decal conforms.
Avoiding decal fold over and creases around curves resulting in dark lines is another problem,
Mike
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Yes, it’s a shame they’re not (although I’m doing the b rather than a so they would have to have different sets- I did some basic cookie cuts but also have a few creases as well - I’m wondering whether to try and sand off and redo with decals or just sand and touch up with oils and use the planks to cover. As an aside, how much planking are you thinking of adding? I was thinking of just here and there but with 2 sheets I’m wondering whether it’s meant to be more extensive? Cheers Matt
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Hi Matt,
Yes they're not easily applied.
As for the strip joins, there doesn't appear to be a set pattern.
Looking at the V.Ib in the Krakow museum, it's hard to make out the joints on the colour photographs.
Below are two that seem to show the joins were at two or three locations along each run and in alternate runs,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/2.jpg)
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Hi Matt,
Yes they're not easily applied.
As for the strip joins, there doesn't appear to be a set pattern.
Looking at the V.Ib in the Krakow museum, it's hard to make out the joints on the colour photographs.
Below are two that seem to show the joins were at two or three locations along each run and in alternate runs,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/2.jpg)
It would make sense for these scarf joints to be aligned to internal ribbing or framing which kind of looks to be the case in the second image.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thanks Mike/Hugh - I’ll follow this approach! Looking forward to seeing your results Mike... and let me know how you deal with the creases. Despite these challenges , I think the decals look very nice when applied. Matt
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Very nice!! Interesting that the joins are not butted; but, saw tooth. Did that increase the fuselage's rigidity?
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Very nice!! Interesting that the joins are not butted; but, saw tooth. Did that increase the fuselage's rigidity?
I think so.
Roland used overlapping plywood planks, known as ’lapstrake’, which was similar to that used on clinker built boats.
This proved to be as strong, but lighter than existing constructions provided, which was an important factor for a fighter aircraft.
Mike
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Hi all,
The wood effect decals with 'scarf' joint plywood joints (from 'ProperPlane') are now done.
These are probably the most difficult decals I've applied, as Matt (FokkerFodder) is finding.
The 'scarf' joint strips and the fin, rudder and lower wing fairing were tricky, but the fuselage decals were something else.
They are four separate fuselage long single decals.
Not 'cookie' cut and with no marking or transparent areas for the fuselage raised details, such as access panels, pulleys and fittings.
Cutting these into sections was not really feasible as any slight overlap of the decal joins would show up as dark (double thickness of the decal.
Therefore when you lay down the decal, it rest on top of all the raised detail, like one pole holding up a tent.
This causes wrinkles and fold over of the decals.
I eventually worked around the problem but not without a few tears (patched) and wrinkles (fortunately on the underside), but these are certainly not for the less experienced modeler.
The decals are similar to those from 'Aviattic' in transparecy, but are not as strong.
They were laid onto a base coat of 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF59) to darken the effect.
Next up is creating the masks for painting the large yellow arrow marking along the sides of the fuselage, which of course will cover a lot of the decals,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/fus13.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/fus12.jpg)
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The wood grain decals have turned out well Mike. Seems a lot is involved in their use. I think personally I will stick with oils ::) That being said they do look great once all is settled!
RAGIII
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That looks awesome Mike!
You gotta be happy with that.
Cheers,
Hugh
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The wood grain definitely looks great and was worth the effort.
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Looks very realistic, even in the closeups.
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Looks good Mike , has an authentic feel to it :)
Alexis
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There is some doubt now over the authenticity of this particular colour scheme.
It seems that it was based on what is apparently the only known photograph of Emil Schäpe seated in a Roland fighter.
The Windsock Data file states that he is seated in a Roland D.VI but doesn't state whether it is a D.VIa or the later D.VIb version.
The photograph shows what appears to be the top of a multi-headed arrow marking on the side of the fuselage.
The late Dan-San Abott interpreted this as the yellow arrow and this seems to have been accepted by painters and illustrators, such as Bob Pearson's profile I'm basing this model on.
The doubts centre on three things - The aircraft in the photograph is a later Roland D.VIb (not a D.VIa), the arrow marking was a lightning bolt marking (not an arrow) and the fuselage was not varnished wood but in fact painted.
I've looked again at the photograph and to me at least, the fuselage marking looks more like an arrow head that lightning bolts.
Also I believe wood grain can be seen on the fuselage planking, although it is very faint. That said this was plywood strips, which wouldn't have much wood grain as such.
As to whether this is a D.VIa or a D.VIb is difficult to tell as the main differences were the D.VIb had a different engine and radiator cowl under the nose of the aircraft, neither of which can be seen on the photograph.
One possible clue for it being a D.VIb is that the two machine guns have extended cocking handles, which from other photographs the D.VIa didn't (standard cocking handles).
Maybe one day someone will come up with photographic or documentary evidence to settle these doubts,
When I build a model I like to try where possible to apply colour schemes that are not often modeled, which is why I chose this particular scheme.
I also didn't want to cover the wood effect decals with too much paintwork.
However, given the uncertainty of this colour scheme I've decided to switch the scheme to the Roland D.VIa, Serial No. 3615/18, which had no personal or Jasta fuselage markings.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/arrow.jpg)
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Hi all,
The basic fuselage is now finished.
As I said in the previous posts, the original colour scheme I was planning to do is in doubt, as to its authenticity.
In addition, any masking or masking tape laid onto these decals, no-matter how gently, started to lift the decals.
Having spent time and effort applying the wood effect decals, I didn't want to risk destroying them with masking.
There I chose an authentic scheme that has no personal or unit markings.
The metal fittings were brush painted with 'Tamiya' Grey Green (XF76).
Padding was 'Humbrol' Leather (62) with hightlights of 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9).
Other metal fittings were 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213) and 'Tamiya' Black (X18)
'Weathering applied with 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash.
Sealing coat is 'Alclad' Light Sheen (311).
Now onto preparing the wings, ailerons, tail plane, rudder and elevators for the lozenge decals,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/fus16.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/fus17.jpg)
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Wow - Looking great Mike! I think picking a largely unmarked plane is a good idea - show off all that wood effect. I’m going to try and finish off my decals this weekend. Cheers Matt
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Hi Matt,
Good luck with that.
Apart from what we've both found thus far, I found that the decals lift easily.
Mine were treated with 'Microscale' MicroSet and also 'Tamiya' X20A thinners.
They were also then sealed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600.
Even so, when I just lightly touched the mask I was going to use onto the fuselage, then carefully took it off to reposition it, the decals started to lift with the mask in various areas.
That's one of the reasons I ended up choosing this scheme, that doesn't require masking the fuselage,
Mike
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I think that the cleaner varnished wood Fuselage looks great!
I wouldn't be too upset that the decals won't allow you to get more creative... Just put it down as a note that if you want to mask and paint over a varnished finish in the future, don't use the decals...
CHeers,
Hugh
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Ooh very nice Mike,
Yes, I’ve learnt never to mask over decals...
Guy
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Yeah it's strange these decals lift.
I've masked over other decals in the past using the same conforming solutions and sealer and had no problems.
It could be because the 'scarf' joints are decals on top of the fuselage wood decal, so double decal.
Hey-ho - moving on,
Mike
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Hi Mike - mine have set like concrete - however I’m going to try a couple of the solutions you mention to see if they help lift them - I’m trying to remove some and it would be great to avoid respraying the white undercoat. Cheers Matt
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Hi Matt,
Using a good setting solution should soften them and lessen their grip.
At a push 'Tamiya' X20A (acrylic) thinners, which normally will soften decals or even 'melt' them, depending on who's decals they are.
If you're wanting to remove large areas then masking tape onto the softened decals and pull them off,
Mike
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Although I was sorry to hear your original scheme wasn't going to work out I do like the results of the All Wood Fuselage!
RAGIII
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Mike , in question to the masking if I may ?
If masking tape such as Tamiya will lift the decals would a masking film work better ?
Alexis
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Hi Alexis,
I think it may be more a problem of decal adhesion to the surface of the model more than the masking medium itself.
Normally you would 'de-tack' masking tapes several times across your hand to lessen its adhesive properties.
Usually that would be enough to stop the tape pulling decal off when removed.
Masking film, such as the 'Artool' mask material I use can't really be 'de-tacked' in the same way, so you are reliant on having masking film that's not too tacky.
That said I've not tried other masking films and there could very well be a less tacky type available.
As I said before I think the problem may be that there are decals applied onto decals, which may result in less adhesion of the top decals.
Also I sometimes use 'Tamiya' X20A thinners as a slight over wash to help fully conform decals that are difficult to bed down onto the model, as these were over the raised fuselage detail.
So that may have softened these particular decals.
Mike
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I like your choice to go with the natural wood fuselage. It looks terrific, plain but very eyecatching and avoids the frustration of trying to match up a piece of decal that has peeled off. Good choice.
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Thanks for the reply Mike , I never tried masking film before and was wondering about it if this could be a possibility .
Alexis
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Lovely woodwork on your fuselage, in my opinion this plane is at its best with bare wood finishing with just the national insigna and stencils, showing all the subtle woodgraining and joint markings.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The 'Aviattic' four colour faded decals have been applied along with the kit decals.
The lozenge decals were applied on a white, pre-shaded gloss base coat.
The next step it to seal the decals with a clear semi-matte before applying the weathering wash.
Then onto pre-rigging the wings,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/decalsdone.jpg)
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The lozenge is looking good Mike! Well done.
RAGIII
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Lovely work with the lozenge Mike :)
Alexis
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Losenge looks good over the preshaded surface. Almost no need for further weathering!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi all,
Subtle weathering applied and sealed.
As usual I used 'Flory' Dark Dirt fine clay wash and sealed it with 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer (ALC-311).
So now it's onto some sub-assembly and pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/weatherdone.jpg)
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As always Mike the Wash looks Great! In combination with the pre shading it really gives excellent results!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Apart from the cross bracing wires, the landing gear is complete.
The lozenge wheel covers were cut out using a 'Thinnerline' circle cutter.
I'm now working on pre-rigging, the first of which are the aileron control lines.
These are 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm diameter tubes, chemically blackened.
Turnbuckles are the metal 1:48th scale from 'GasPatch'.
Holes of 0.2 mm diameter were drilled through the ends of the upper wing control levers (for the rigging lines).
These can't be finished until the upper wing has been fitted.
Now onto the rest of the pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/geardone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/prerig1.jpg)
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Nice legs Mike !
Alexis
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Why, thank you Alexis :D
Oh, the landing gear - eer - thanks :-[
Mike
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Your "Legs Do Nothing for Me Mike but that gear is awesome ::)
RAGIII
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Hi all,
All of the pre-rigging of lines is now done and ready to be attached to the various parts of the model before assembly starts.
The tricky areas were the rudder and elevator, which need to be rigged before assembly starts.
All turnbuckles still need their centre section painted,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/rudrig.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/elevrigged.jpg)
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That looks amazing Mike!
Love the rigging - perfection!
Guy
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I really like the rigging details.
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I am always impressed by your rigging and this is no exception.
RAGIII
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Awsome "tornstoff" and rigging lines.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Hi all,
The actual aircraft model is more or less complete now.
However, I'm still waiting for the figures from 'Model Cellar' to arrive from the USA.
So for now this model completion is hold.
A few shots of the fitted 'ProperPlane' propeller and 'ReXx' exhaust.
Of all the rigging, the trickiest were the aileron control cables from their levers in the upper wing.
So, whilst waiting for the figures, I can start thinking of the next model to start?
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/ailcontdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/propon.jpg)
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The prop is beautiful...as is the model. Another Stunning build Mike!
RAGIII
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😲👍👏👏👏
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What a stunning model!
The rigging details and the woodgrain are top notch!
Willem
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Why, thank you Alexis :D
Oh, the landing gear - eer - thanks :-[
Mike
;)
Alexis
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Looking Good!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Geez, that is good!
Cheers
Syd
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Fantastic Mike - can’t wait to see more pics!
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I've been busy lately and had little time for the forum or to reply. This one is going real fast. I especially like the wooddecals and the lozenge, I think you did a great job with them.
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Hi all,
Today the 'Model Cellar' figures finally arrived from The States, so they've been painted now.
I'm just waiting for the display case to arrive, hopefully tomorrow.
Then I can wrap this one up and post the completed shots,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/Roland-D.VIa/figuresdone.jpg)
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Nicely Done Mike!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Completed model shots now posted in Completed Models,
Thanks,
Mike