Flat, Glossy or Somewhere in between?....

[Todd Holaday]

Hello everyone,

I attended the 2013 IPMS Roscoe Turner event in Indianapolis last weekend.  It was the first plastic model show I have been to, so the first time I had an opportunity to view other modellers WW1 efforts in person.  There were probably 15-20 Bipes. 

I was a little surprised by the extreme flatness of the overall finishes of the WW1 models and am asking the forum members if this sample was a good reflection of what others are doing.  It's hard for me to tell from vintage photographs but my impression has been that the painted and CDL coverings were not extremely flat nor particularly glossy.  I've finished my models with future clear and thought they looked realistic in sheen compared to photos.  I have in some cases sprayed flat over the decals when they seemed to glossy, but that is about it.  I also have the impression that parts of the model would be considerably glossier than others, the wood struts and propellers for example.  I've been assuming that non-reflective finishes were not considered important for camouflage purposes in WW1.  I now wonder if I am mistaken.

I would appreciate very much hearing your opinions on this subject.

[Des]

Most aircraft left the factory wearing quite a glossy finish, but this quickly wore off due to weather conditions and use, the planes ended up with a satin to flat finish usually covered in oil, fuel and dirt, and bullet holes.

I finish all my models with a spray of Humbrol clear cote, I use a 50/50 mix of the Humbrol Satin Cote and Matt Cote which gives a very nice sheen just off flat, the Humbrol clear cotes are an enamel so they give good protection for the decals and paint work. There is a huge range of clear finishes available and each modeler has his/her own preference, use what works best for you and what you think looks good.

Des.

[Nigel Jackson]

Like Des, I think you have to go with what works best for you and what you think looks good. Do bear in mind though that in terms of modelling skills  I'm pretty near the opposite end of the spectrum.

I don't particularly like very flat finishes. Instead, I would prefer to apply what here in France is sold as Johnson's  Klir (presumably Clear in the English speaking world?) It's available from my local supermarket but bizarrely the picture on the front of the container shows some sparkling bright floor tiles rather than a classy looking Great War aeroplane; I can't help but think that Johnson's marketing people have missed a trick there.

Sometimes I use a spray but, as often as not, now I use an approximately 1.5cm wide, flat, angle cut artist's brush. Charging it very lightly with Klir to avoid runs and excessive build up I make chord-wise flat strokes across the wing and tail surfaces; fuselages can be more tricky but the procedure can work equally well. What I like about Klir is that I can apply multiple layers to build up the degree of gloss I require from a satin sheen to something much more reflective. It dries pretty quickly which can work both ways but it does allow speedy re-coating.

Best wishes
Nigel   

[GAJouette]

  Todd,
I use Future with an overspray of semi-gloss and flat mixure for mine. The best advise I could offer is that you play around a bit with your finishing then go with whatever looks best to your eyes. How was the contest,lots of outstanding WW I builds?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette

[lcarroll]

Todd,
    I believe the key is as Des alluded, they left the factory real glossy and got ugly (Read dirty, flat or semi gloss) real quick due to use, combat, austere field and maintenance conditions, and generally outdoor storage. I favour a semi-gloss overall finish, heavy on the weathering side, and lots of wear however that's personal taste. I totally admire the works produced in mint "showroom or factory new" finish as well, results I could not produce for certain. It's totally what you prefer and want to replicate, which is the beauty of this Hobby. Enjoy!
Cheers,
Lance

[Ian from Doncaster]

I coat my models with Klear as this seals the paint and decals.  Then I apply weathering and/or other coats on top.  I often apply a mattcote first, as this allows the weathering powders to adhere better and also dulls down the glossy decals, then if I think the overall model looks too flat, I'll seal again with klear.  I think a satin effect looks just the job, especially on fabric surfaces.  Wood, metal - they can get away with being glossier.  An overall gloss effect would be too toy like in the small scales, in my opinion.

All the (few, mainly British) WWI aircraft I have seen in museums have what I would describe as somewhere between matt and satin, although are clean and reproduction/repainted.  The areas where the fabric is stretched more, ie over wing ribs, appears more glossy.  So in my method above, I would use klear to get a glossy coat first, then mask the ribs etc before applying weathering and mattcote - this is a method I need to practice but I have seen some excellent finishes on here from others

[Todd Holaday]

Thanks for your opinions and tips about final finish methods.  I think I will stick with the mainstream and the look I prefer which is a "used but not abused" appearance, in other words a plane that has been on the lines for a short period of time.  Most of the planes lasted weeks or months from what I read due to obsolescence and casualties (unfortunately for the pilots who flew them), so I'm going to steer away from the ultraflat appearance I observed last weekend. 

GAJouette, it was the first show I've ever attended so I can't say how it compared to others.  There were hundreds of models there, probably about 15-18 of which were biplanes, mostly WW1 era.  I was please to win a 3rd with my WNW Albatros DV entry.  Having never entered a contest before I had no idea what to expect.  It was fun talking to two of the other builders, both were familiar with this site which mady for a great discussion.  I hope to get some other shows this year like Dayton, Cincinnatti and maybe one a little further from home.  A WNW Gotha was present, I own this kit but haven't built it yet.  It is bigger than I imagined.  Looks like a seriously time consuming effort.