forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: dirk on March 09, 2013, 06:40:06 PM
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Dear friends,
here is the first post on my new project, the Fokker E.II 69/15 flown by Kurt von Crailsheim, FFA 53 in October 1915. Of course its WNW's 1/32 scale early Fokker. Different reasons make me look forward in building this plane: First I am interested in reproducing the unique "turned" cowlings. Second I find the appearance of the Semigloss "Fokker Beige" over "Clear Doped Linen" quite challenging. Lots of shading and weathering techniques will be necessary to get this fuselage to life. On third, the rigging and especially the cabane struts will be quite interesting to reproduce. Maybe I will use a pair of my Gaspatch turnbuckles for this. Last but not least I will use the Fokker E.III Scalespoke wheels for my build, although the wheels I received seem to be oversized, but more on this later...
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_4998_zps4789496f.jpg)
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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Dirk, I am very much looking forward to your build of this wonderful kit, there are certain aspects of the build that will be challenging but I'm sure you will pull it off with flying colours, good luck.
Des.
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Sounds an interesting project Dirk, good luck with your build, I look forward to your updates.
Cheers
Pete.
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Dear friends,
here is one update on the Scalespoke wheels for the Fokker E.III. In comparison to the kit wheels, the Scalespoke wheels seen on the right have different sizes. WNW's wheel has an inner size of 14 mm while the Scalespoke wheel's diameter is 16 mm. The more important outer diameter deviate from 19,4 mm for the WNW wheel to 21,7mm for the Scalespoke wheel. Is this a wrong packaging or what's the reason? Has anyone an idea? In the meantime I will contact scalespokes and let you know what it's all about.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5007_zps4f8cbeb6.jpg)
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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Great stuff dirk, i will be following your build closely as i was planning to treat myself to this kit as a birthday present to myself ;)
michael
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This will be a fun build to watch, Dirk. I look forward to seeing how the wire wheels work out and how you reproduce the Fokker varnish.
Cheers,
Bud
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are the two tires provided by scalespoke (white and black) different sizes as well? It looks like the white tire is larger, but maybe that's an illusion...
looking forward to hearing what you find out from them...
and looking forward to your build.
cheers
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are the two tires provided by scalespoke (white and black) different sizes as well? It looks like the white tire is larger, but maybe that's an illusion...
Hi Bo,
both tires, the black and grey have the same outer diameter.
Anyway, I will begin with the build and lay the tires besides in the meantime.
Dirk
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Hi folks,
here is an update on my work on the inner fuselage. I have tried to reproduce the squiggles with various methods... all failed. The foil from a cottage cheese package is perfect in scale but almost impossible to use because of its thickness.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/AluminiumFoil03.jpg)
I have tried different materials that I wanted to use as a template by spraying the aluminium coat with my airbrush. I even used different materials as stamps. At least the simpliest method, advised by Wingnuts "Hints and Tips" shows good results. As a base coat I used Alclad Semi matt aluminum.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5000_zps9de33a20.jpg)
The squiggles were hand painted by using Vallejo Aluminum acrylics.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5002_zps8a221e6e.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_4999_zpse9203f57.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/0ef070d3-e2bc-49f3-a48a-daae59bf4fbb_zps5c06fd61.jpg)
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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Great job on the squiggles, Dirk. They really look good.
Cheers,
Bud
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Looks great Dirk
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Metal work looks great!!
Steve
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Those metal squiggles look ok to me Dirk, very nice job.
Cheers
Pete.
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Great start on the metal work Dirk
michael
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Dirk,
Outstanding progress my friend. Love the engine turning effect. Keep the fantastic work!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hello Dirk:
Looking forward to this build and what the results of your wheel query will bring. Hopefully some satisfactory results. In the meantime, your metal work looks the business, so you are on your way. It will also be intersting to see how you do the fuselage shading as well.
Best
Mark
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After two weeks of beeing heavily engaged in my job I have now found the time to post some update on my Fokker.
The preassembly and the painting of the cockpit is almost finished. The instrument panel has been painted with Tamiya XF 78, sealed with semi-gloss varnish from vallejo. The woodgrain has been brushed with sienna and umbra oil-paints. The detail on the pulsameter has been added by a heat stretched transparent sprue and the wiring was done by using .2 mm copper wire. The instrument glasses were made by using Micro Kristal Klear. Especially the metal elements on the decals for the switches came out very realistic.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0586_zpsaf1b32e3.jpg)
The cockpit floor received some weathering with pigments and different oil-painted woodgrains for the two covers. The wiring of the control cables and especially for the rudder bar was quite challenging. At least the cables popped away in the final stage of using oil-paint. I guess that the solvent (white spirit) softened the plastic and cause it to break. Finally I fixed the cables directly on the rudder bar.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0589_zps1a27ead8.jpg)
The chair was brushed in wood grain and was sealed with acrylic varnish. After that I used the hairspray technique and sprayed the Tamiya XF 60 "Fokker Beige". This coat was brushed and sanded away partially to get a heavy used look. The photoetched seatbelts were painted in Clear Doped Linen and were weathered by using earth-brown Mig-Pigments.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0595_zps1f756bc3.jpg)
The contol column got some extra wiring for the MG switch. All black parts were treated with metalic-pigments.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0601_zps980ee967.jpg)
The structural wiring was done by using 0.12 mm fishing line. The turnbuckles were made with 0.4 mm Albion tubes, wrapped by 0.05 mm copper wire.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0610_zpsdd1b153d.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0590_zps4325f66a.jpg)
So now I am hooked again in my current build and more pics will follow soon.
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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Truly superb, Dirk. Thanks for the eye candy.
Cheers,
Bud
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Great job so far Dirk, lovely looking pit.
Cheers
Pete.
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An interesting way to do turnbuckles. Where do you find such thin copper wire, I may ask?
Stefan
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Cockpit is looking great.
Adam.
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An interesting way to do turnbuckles. Where do you find such thin copper wire, I may ask?
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
you find this kind of non-isolated copper wire in store for electronic supplies (i. e. Conrad in Germany). 100m for about 3,99 € and thats all you need for the rest of your modellers life ;)
Dirk
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Here's another update. I finished the cockpit. The mounting of the sideframes was quite easy, more challenging was to fix the structural wiring, especially those under the oil pump under the instrument panel.
So here are the side frames, all wiring has been prefixed:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0615_zpsa583a6e4.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0616_zps7ced139f.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0619_zpsbb8b786e.jpg)
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The mounting of the sideframes:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0621_zpsf2b1c2cd.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0623_zps2915c4e1.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0626_zpsdcb74679.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0627_zps6e304250.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0636_zpscb17ae64.jpg)
The Tachymeter:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0659_zps28666403.jpg)
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.. and the finished Cockpit:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0669_zps045d7bdb.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0670_zps9c0b0501.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0668_zpsd0097db8.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0676_zpsddccd891.jpg)
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Gorgeous cockpit, Dirk! I love the wear on the floor.
Cheers,
Bud
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Dirk,
Somehow I missed this build log before. It is really great to see the Master at work again. Superb looking cockpit. I just wonder if I could reproduce your metal work. I am going to follow this build carefully!
regards,
Ivo
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Cockpit is absolutely top notch Dirk. Great detail, just the right amount of wear and stunning in it's realism. As said previously by Ivo, great to see your masterful work again!
Cheers,
Lance
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Dirk,
Absolutely stunning work on her interior my friend. Outstanding job on the many details too,very impressive.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Simply fantastic as ever Dirk :)
michael
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Dirk,
An absolutely gorgeous cockpit! Your work is awesome from the painting to the details.
RAGIII
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Coming along superbly now Dirk, great job.
Cheers
Pete.
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Very nicely done. My eye was drawn immediately to the turnbuckles on the bracing wires. I sure hope this is all visible once the fuselage is all buttoned up.
Cheers,
Chris
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Beautiful work. Looking forward to the next step - just quit work and build models...... ;)
Steve
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Nice work, I think the black background helps set off the model a treat.
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You have done a superb job on the cockpit Dirk, your attention to detail is excellent and well executed.
Des.
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Dirk, Nice bit of work in the 'pit. Looks to be fairly complex when all the detail is added.
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Thanks to everybody who has given me a feedback to my last post. You guys keep me hooked on building and posting...
@mike: The cockpit was far more complex tham I expected while looking at that small instrument panel at the beginning. Especially the bracing wires and the wires under th oil pump caused some fitting problems at the stage,when the the fuel tank was positioned together with the instrument panel between the side frames. The tachometer snapped off - a good occasion to take some pics of that instrument. ;D
@gcn: I my opinion, the blackground serves well as a contrast to the wooden and metallic elements and especially during the work in progress.
Anyway, I wish you all happy eastern and some peaceful and relaxing days,
with greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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Here are some pics of the fitting of the cockpit into the fuselage. First I glued the cockpit into the left half of the fuselage. Before this, I cleaned every part that needs some glue. The rear side of the cockpit shows some pins to help the cockpit to get into place. After some dry fitting, I found it more useful to cut the pins away on the right side. The fuselage comes together well after I sanded down the rear part of the right side of the cockpit where the wings are fixed. At about 0.5 mm have been sanded down. On this part of the build, dry fitting shows the excellent fit of the kit: even a coat of laquer has its effect on the fit of the halves of the fuselage. The glueing of the fuselage comes in two steps and is extremely clever engineered: The bottom of the fuselage has to be glued by using the lacing as a seperate part, that covers the seam...
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0706_zpsf93a1f9c.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0713_zpsd4b7ef92.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0718_zps1c417654.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0720_zpsbad22a4d.jpg)
Dirk
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I know it's a ridiculous thing to say? But, all that lovely hard won detail disappearing into the deep dark shadows of the insides!!! It would/will grieve me to no end.
Suffice to say it all looks pretty darn amazing - double huzzahs from me.
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I think, the feeling that these parts are there is priceless.
Adam.
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Fantastic stuff Dirk :)
this will be a great reference for anyone building this kit.
michael
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Faultless workmanship Dirk, you have achieved a remarkable result with the cockpit, very well done.
Des.
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Hi friends,
here are some pictures of my work on the cowlings. It takes a lot of time to reproduce those squiggles and it is also very interesting, how this pattern becomes more and more convincing to the observers eye the more of the surface is covered with the pattern. For the squiggles I used Vallejo Acrylics - one drop is all you need for ar about one hour of painting ;D. By the way there is some risk in getting some sort of "snow-blind" in making the pattern on a very low contrasting surface. I will experiment with a finishing coat of alclad to reach a more convincing, unique look of the metal. While trying to overpainted some parts of the pattern a few days before, I made the experience that the underlying squiggles were still be visible.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0726_zps457be3b7.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0732_zps93eec19e.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN0730_zps9787582a.jpg)
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I can well imagine that this task would result in some eye strain. It looks very realistic to me. I think you nailed it!
Cheers,
Chris
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Dirk,
Beautiful and very realistic machined metal look my friend. Keep up the grand works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Dirk,
It looks absolutely convincing. I hope you don't mind me asking to give us some more details how you achieved this result: you started by spraying a base coat of ? and then handpainted the squiggles with Vallejo. It is quite an achievement that you could keep the squiggles evenly small. I am afraid I would be tempted to make them bigger while working at the entire subject. It does require patience and self control I expect.
But I like your result a lot. Compliments!
regards,
Ivo
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Hi Ivo,
well, I had the same apprehension that the squiggles will get bigger and bigger. So I planned to start every panel on its different edges and that leads in my opinion to a more regular pattern.
So here is the process in steps:
1. Alclad Semi Matt Aluminum
2. Coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish
3. Vallejo Aluminum painted by a small sized brush
With greetings,
Dirk
Dirk,
It looks absolutely convincing. I hope you don't mind me asking to give us some more details how you achieved this result: you started by spraying a base coat of ? and then handpainted the squiggles with Vallejo. It is quite an achievement that you could keep the squiggles evenly small. I am afraid I would be tempted to make them bigger while working at the entire subject. It does require patience and self control I expect.
But I like your result a lot. Compliments!
regards,
Ivo
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Beautiful work on the metal panels, Dirk.
Cheers,
Bud
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Dirk,
This is yet another Build I have endless admiration for; like several previous I'll be referencing this when I get to the build of my own. Your attention to and execution of detail is nothing short of spectacular........keep those updates coming, most enjoyable and so much being learned!
My sincere compliments!
Cheers,
Lance
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The metal parts look really convincing. Well done. I am eagerly awaiting your rigging process and will be watching that one very closely.
Stefan
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Just catching up - this is amazing work and a go to technique!!
Steve
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Hello Dirk:
I will echo the sentiments of the others here. Outstanding work all around. I like your approach to the swirls and your comments about how you did them.
Best
Mark
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Hi Dirk, I love those panels, the swirls look spot on to me, well done.
Cheers
Pete.
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Hi friends,
after a very pleasant week in La Palma, Canary Island, iI am back and almost finished my work on the Oberursel engine. As references I used the very useful Fokker E III walkaround from the Science Museum, London that I found here: http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/mark_hayward/fokker_eiii/
First, I painted the Enine and the cylinder in XF-1 Flat Black.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1201_zps13205065.jpg)
While cutting from the sprue, the ring that is part of the egnition distributur got damaged and had to be restored.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1205_zps9974f06f.jpg)
The next step was to paint the cylinder block in Alclad Chrome, using a template for airbrushing. The coat was polished and treated with MIG Metal Pigments later on. I am sorry, but only a little of the shiny effect is visible on the pictures.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1208_zps6a482bf4.jpg)
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The next step was to treat the cylinders with MIG Metal pigments, rubbed into the surface with my fingertip.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1213_zps1c01ba70.jpg)
Agama Burnt Metal paste was added to the base/mounting of the cylinders for some contrast.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1215_zps7f4a68b7.jpg)
The effect after some polishing:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1217_zps12fc73b2.jpg)
Valve levers were painted with Alclad Polished aluminum and Chrome for the bars/handles.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1219_zps73371301.jpg)
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While watching the cylibnders on the walkaround, I had the idea to simulate the burned coloured effect by using yellow and Red Oil Paints. To create a more subtile effect, the paints were blended by using white spirit later on.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1224_zps3ae33c9e.jpg)
Valve levers were mounted and receive some brass by using "decanded" Alclad Pale Gold by brush.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1234_zpsc375119f.jpg)
Ignition cable were added by using 0,05 copper wire, by using clamps, gravity helps to keep them under tension while glue sets.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1227_zps787be81e.jpg)
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The last step was to add the decal and some washing with brown and black high diluted oil paints.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1237_zps9ff0da4b.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1238_zps19e5bac4.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1243_zps665023e8.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1234_zpsc375119f.jpg)
With greeting from Germany,
Dirk
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Dirk awesome work on the motor. Thanks for the step by step. The subtle weathering is very impressive and hits the mark perfectly!!
Steve
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I promise I'll try to feel bad as I shamelessly steal every bit of that engine detailing technique! ;D
Thanks for the great tutorial, Dirk.
Lindsay
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Dirk,
Wow that's some awesome detailling and painting my friend. Very impressive technique beyond doubt.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Dear friens,
here is some update on the painting work of the fuselage and the wings. My plan was to use an underneath layer of XF-55 linnen that will be covered with dark yellow. Similar to my PC10 work on the Harry Tate and the FE2.b I wanted to sand down the paint to its base, the linnen. That was the plan.
So the first step was to add some basic paint by using XF-55. The coat was sealed with Vallejo Satin Varnish.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1245_zps46718710.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1247_zps778d8a5a.jpg)
Next step was to mask the wing rips and the metal tubing frame under the linnen.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1248_zps4d8516a8.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1249_zpsa39a6c4b.jpg)
Some light preshading was followed by a brownish coat along the masks.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1253_zps9e1a2667.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1256_zpsbfd57876.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1257_zps6be88823.jpg)
A very strong contrast between the masked structure and the shading can be seen here.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1262_zpsed356acf.jpg)
This contrast was not easy to be toned down and various steps of spraying light layers and sanding down the coat followed. While PC 10 has shown great saturation XF-60 wasn't that handsome >:(...
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Here are some pics before the final layers.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1270_zpsb73835e7.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1265_zpsc2e9f051.jpg)
The wings responded well to the final layers and a great but subtile variation of the coat was the result.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1272_zpsc168dfca.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1277_zpsead950f4.jpg)
The effect on the steel frame is still looking overdone after various spray sessions...
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1279_zpsba16f837.jpg)
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Very convincing and realistic finish, Dirk. A lot of work, but well worth the effort.
Cheers,
Bud
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Dirk,
Excellent finish my friend.Looking forward t more.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Dirk thanks for sharing your workflow, it's going to look amazing!!!
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Thanks Bud, Gregory and Bo for your comments.
On historic photos the fuselage seems to differ between shades of more or less lighter or darker regions, analog to canvas thats been painted with a monochrome colour and has then rubbed and scatched so that the underlying base coat come through. I decided to get that effect by using the "Sponge technique". I used a mixture of XF-55, white and XF-60, heavy diluted with water and applied it with a sponge.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1287_zps24411acc.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1289_zps27ac2907.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1290_zpsadbafe18.jpg)
Again the surface was sanded down with 5000 mesh to get a more homogeneous finish. So this is the fuselage before weathering.
The next step will be to add some brown to the colour and repeat the procedere near the engine and the cockpit. Then I will use Tamiya smoke for the grease on the base tubing of the cockpit shining through the linnen from inside...
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That's a marvelous effect Dirk. Very realistic! ;D I'm looking forward to seeing this one assembled.
Regards,
Bob
-
Nice Dirk, Thanks for showing how it`s done , Maybe now I can finish my EIII :) .
Willi
-
Amazing effect Dirk. You have got results that show both a tonal variation and a subtle fabric weave look to the fabric areas. Looking forward to the next steps.
Steve
-
Dear friends,
happy moselling on this weekend while the weather is getting worse...
For the fuselage I added some brown to the colour that I mixed before and applied it with a sponge near the engine and the cockpit. A coat of high diluted "Fokker Beige" was sprayed to get the overall effect more subtle.
Tamiya smoke was extremly useful for the grease on the base tubing of the cockpit shining through the linnen from inside. Before spraying Tamiya Smoke, The structure of the frame was masked again. Finally the mask were pulkled away and another light coat of smoke was sprayed.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1293_zpsc2caff49.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1294_zpsa093ab52.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1295_zps64aec015.jpg)
And the other side of the fuselage:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1296_zps8c10fc49.jpg)
The technique was repeat on the wings, especially on the wing root section. Tamiya Smoke was used to simulate some smoke from the engine on the linnen und around the metal plates.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1297_zpsc21b36dc.jpg).
So I think that is quite a good base for starting more weathering by using pigments and oil-paints.
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
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You're thinking this one out very well which is resulting in perfect effects!!
Steve
-
Dirk, a person looking at just the photos would not believe there was plastic underneath! It looks like dirty, weathered linen stretched over a tubular frame. Outstanding effect! ;D This just keeps getting better!
Regards.
Bob
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As ever Dirk it's a masterclass from your bench- a great read.
thanks for sharing your work
michael
-
Dear friends,
here is some update on painting the fuselage. I decided to spray instead of using the decals for the stripes #26, 28, 32 and 33 on my Fokker E.II 69/15. The reason was to get some control on slight variatons of the colour of the stripes and to add some weathering by sanding down the coat on the stripes. The other reason was to experiment with self-made masks and to make some new experiences :D
So the first step was to mask the overall region. I used the decals as templates and marked the places for the outer masks.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1305_zps74920744.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1306_zpsb1597e94.jpg)
Tamiya XF-2 was sprayed to the white and yellow regions. Afterwards the coat was sanded down and sealed with future on the region of the white stripe.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1307_zps84dbbf8b.jpg)
The next thing was to mix the propper colour for the yellow -beige stripe. I used a basic mix af Tamiya Flat yellow (XF-3) and Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown. Small amounts of XF-7 Flat Red enriched the laquer towards a more warm tone.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1308_zps41bf0879.jpg)
The coat was sprayed in a varying intensity and the edges of the stripe got some Tamiya Smoke.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1309_zpse8bdae96.jpg)
After a final coat of future and two hours of waiting, the yellow region was masked. Again I used the decals as templates and measured the varying widths of the upper, down and side decals.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1310_zpsf95b2bea.jpg)
A coat of Tamiya Flat Black was sprayed taking care that the saturation of the coat varies.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1311_zps7030edb7.jpg)
So after some sanding down and using Future as varnish, this is the result:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1313_zpsb7024df0.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1315_zpscd5dbea6.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1316_zpsc31423dd.jpg)
Tomorrow I will try to spray the crosses on the wings.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Hi Dirk,
Looks very nice , keep up the good work .Did you use 1mm tape for the rib and tubing masks on the wings and fuselage ?
Willi
-
Looks great, dirk, bravo
-
Excellent work. Quick question - do you spray future? If yes what psi?
Steve
-
Hi Dirk,
Looks very nice , keep up the good work .Did you use 1mm tape for the rib and tubing masks on the wings and fuselage ?
Willi
Hi Willi, I am using normal Tamiya Tape at about 8mm width and cut 1mm stripes with a scalpel.
Cheers and love to hear news from your project.
Let`s vote for a Fokker Group build , Dirk
-
Excellent work. Quick question - do you spray future? If yes what psi?
Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for your feedback. To your question: I allways use my Harder & Steinbeck Evolution Airbrush with at around 30 psi (Revell Professional Compressor).
Cheers, Dirk
-
Thanks Dirk. I thought a higher pressure was needed. I was down at 18 and found it went on "grainy" Fortunately the settling characteristics of the Future solved the problem but Im thinking AVOIDING it would be better. Do you wet coat it or mist it on?
Steve
-
Hi Steve,
I use Future as a varnish. The distance that I use is about 8-10cm and Future behaves light any other acrylic varnish under a pressure between 30-35 psi. You can cover the areas quite quick but need good light to see the coat and avoid flooding. Be sure to clean the airbrush well before use and clean the airbrush with an ammonia based liquid, in the US its Windex, I suppose. Flood the airbrush with water afterwards.
Dirk
-
That is the other problem I have - seeing it going on!! Again the settling properties help to level it out in the case of a bit too much Future but Im going to try spraying from the 8-10cm you suggest. I was further away, at a lower pressure which I think caused the problems.
Steve
-
Hi Steve,
to make that future thing a little more complicated: If the pressure is too high, the airflowwill cause the future to be reflected from the fuselage. Mist will becloud the eyes and the effect on the model is towards zero... ;D But all in all its quite easy if you find the right pressure, light and distance. Be sure to use future undiluted.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Dear friends,
here is some progress on painting the crosses on the wings:
First I sticked some masking tape that will fit the four ellipses that are needed to spray the crosses. The radius is easy to find: The cross decals on wingnuts sheet are arranged in a fousquare pattern. Between the four decals are the numbers of the decals, positioned in a circle. the middle of the circle is the centerpoint for the circle that will touch both, the left and the righthand decal.
The tape around the ellipses marks the outer fousquare border of the white base for the crosses.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1320_zps14c36561.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1319_zps87afbd75.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1321_zpsc3da06b4.jpg)
The ellipses are cutted out by using an olfa cutter.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1322_zps3d340b4b.jpg)
The ellopses are secured by using some tape. The outer line for the white base is masked.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1323_zps9b261981.jpg)
Tamiya XF-2 is sprayed, sanded down and sealed with future.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1324_zps123766d5.jpg)
After two hours of drying Post it Notes are used for masking and got some helping lines.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1325_zps1f3eea12.jpg)
The cross was painted by using XF-69 Nato Black first. XF-1 follows in irregular patterns and satuaration. The mask was peeled off.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1327_zpsb8240179.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1326_zps450a9ee8.jpg)
And the result after - you guess it... sanding and some future as varnish:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1328_zpscd3a397c.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1329_zps06783ccf.jpg)
Hope you like it,
with greetings from Geramny,
Dirk
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OK, I am now even more impressed :D Excellent work on the masks and painting of the crosses!!!!
RAGIII
-
Simply gorgeous paint work, Dirk!
Cheers,
Bud
-
For the crosses on the undersurface of the wings I choose a minor different method that proofed to be far more easy, especially in alignthe both masks. After the wing has been masked and painted white, the mask for the crosses was cut to size of the white area. After fixingthe maskt onto the white area a small gap of around 1mm showed the correct alignment on all four sides. After masking the gaps, the crosses were sprayed. Life can be so easy ;D
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1331_zps868c5c00.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1335_zps4dd54b11.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1333_zpsb9e7c1dd.jpg)
Cheers, Dirk
-
Dirk, the results are really stunning. It will always look different and more accurate than decals. We should see the real thing surely, but on your pictures they look perfect. Now it doesn't look like they are painted, they are!
regards,
Ivo
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Thanks for sharing your techniques Dirk. You make it all look so easy. I just wish it was!
Cheers,
Chris
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Another interesting, informative and inspiring tutorial. The results look superb of course. Thanks again for taking the time to share.
-
Dirk,
You make it look easy my friend and that's a tell of a Master Craftsman. I very much appreciate all the fantastic tip your sharing. Very much looking forward to the next update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks for all your comments, friends. I am now facing one problem and need some help: After varnishing the surface and wings with future the subtile detail gets lost a little bit. How can I bring it back to life, especially the mottled linnen applied by sponge? Would you sand down the coat of future a little bit or apply silk or matte varnish over the coat of future?
Dirk
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Dirk,
I would go with a coat of semi gloss varnish over the Future myself. I've not tried sanding the Future down,but I suppose that could work as well if done with very fine grain sandpaper. Not regular fine paper but the type used to polish canopies with.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
As others have said - thankyou for another instructional posting!!
Steve
-
Dear friends,
thanks for your last replies, Vallejo Satin Varnish worked well over the gloss future varnish and rescued all the detail work on the fuselage.
Here is some update on the rudder: I added some turnbuckles, made by 0.6/0.3 mm albion tube and 0.15 mm copper wire. For the locating pin to the fuselage I used albion tube of the same size.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1347_zpsc0c7420b.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1346_zps5c69d8b9.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1349_zps7b816152.jpg)
The rudder was sprayed by using Tamiya XF60 as "Fokker Beige". I used the "Hairspray method" and sprayed a layer of XF-2 white over the coat of hairspray. By using a wet brush, the underlying beige come out on specific, heavy exposed areas, especially towards the outer parts of the rudder.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1350_zps5c6d306f.jpg)
Hope you like it,
Dirk
-
So so nice...
-
Very cool, and very real!
-
Excellent work. The airflow/abrasion effect is perfect.
Steve
-
Fantastic Dirk simply fantastic !
michael
-
Dirk,
A very realistic looking weathering pattern on the Rudder! Beautiful work all around!!
RAGIII
-
Most impressive detail work. Thank you for explaining the way you worked.
Stefan
-
Dirk,
Nice technique to try for myself sometime in the future. The effect is excellent, although I do not really understand how you can achieve a kind of chipping effect using a wet brush. To me it seems that you should realise a more abrasive effect, but your result is absolutely convincing, so I'll try this as you explained.
regards,
Ivo
-
Hello Dirk:
Just catching up a bit. Thanks so much for explaining how you do your finishes. This is interesting and fun to see how you put this all together. On the rotary engines for the plug leads, I use EZ line. It always stays taut and there is a copper color as well.
I am trying to understand the hairspray method and the wet brush effect on the rudder. It is so convincing. I know you spray hairspray, then the white, but the wet brush? Do you use a wet brush after the white dries? Does the hairspray act as a barrier that lets the wet brush pick the paint off?
Looking forward to more.
Best
Mark
-
Hi Mark, hi Ivo,
some explanations to the "Hairspray Method" that i use. The base colour, in my case the Fokker beige gets some Vallejo gloss varnish. After letting the coat dry for at least one day, hairspray was sprayed until the whole rudder received a wet look. I waited 3-5 minutes and sprayed my Tamiya XF-2 White over it. After that and within another 3-5 minutes the white was treated with a wet brush. The water solves the white coat within one stroke of the brush. The next stroke after a few seconds removes the white coat almost instantly and I had to be very careful, not to remove too much of the white coat. After drying, the rudder gets its final coat of satin varnish.
So the coat of hairspray has its function as a instable water solvable layer between the base coat (i.e. linnen or aluminum) and the weathered top coat (here: white)
Here is a link to Mig Jiminez, explaining the technique in a far more detailled and eloquent way :)
http://migjimenez.blogspot.de/2009/11/hairspray-technique-vol1.html and just because videos speak more than thousand words...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNFdEZnQN8
Cheers, Dirk
-
Hello Dirk:
Sehr gut und Vielen Dank:
I think I got the picture now and can proceed when I try the technique.
Best
Mark
-
Hi folks,
here is an update on the cabane struts. I cut off the kit turnbuckles and replaced them with the Gaspatch Type A buckles. I drilled 0.4 mm holes into the cabane struts. The turnbuckleshave been fixed with CA. 0.05 copper wire was warped around the junction between the buckles and the struts to minimize the difference between the struts and the turnbuckles diameter.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1371_zps86e74943.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1363_zpsac306427.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1366_zps4ef40212.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1374_zps73b96048.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1379_zps1ccca405.jpg)
The control cable pulley is scratchbuilt by using bent 0.5 mmm Albion Alloy tube and two discs made of evergreen sheets. The junction between the discs will bear the cables.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1381_zps4791f283.jpg)
Cheers, Dirk
-
mmmm mmmmm mmmmmm lovely work
-
Dirk,
Amazing details my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Dirk, I really appreciate the detailed explanations of your techniques. It is
a great help for those of us with little experience in detailing a model.
Thanks for sharing your work.
Best Regards,
Ernie
-
G'day, Dirk.
I agree with Ernie, mate- your build has been not just a pleasure, but also a good modelling class. Many thanks for sharing your techniques, Dirk. I've already used a few of your techniques to help my current build.
Cheers.
Dal.
-
Dear friends,
here are some pics on my work on the Garuda Feldpropeller. Pictures of the original propeller showed two very dark red-brownish types of tropic-wood (mahagony and another type) used for the lamination process.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/53277neu_zps2b1a8d61.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/neu_zps3c2e55d8.jpg)
I tried my best with Vallejo paints, given the propeller a base coat with a mix of Vallejo 036 Mahagoni and 033 ochre.
For the masking I used Tamiya masking tape, cut into stripes of .5 - 1mm. The Stripes marked the outer regions of the darker wood first and the space in between was "filled" with more tape.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1336_zpse4b6b4d2.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1338_zps67eb1c51.jpg)
For the lighter type of wood I used the same Valleyo mix of coloursbut more towards 033 ochre
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1341_zpse753ea19.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1342_zps69d283da.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1343_zps2eb26cb3.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1344_zpsbab89660.jpg)
After a coat af Vallejo gloss varnish, oil paints were used for the wooden grain. The umbra oil paint was applied undiluted with a sponge. After waiting for about ten minutes the grain was worked into the oil paint by using a brush moistened with white spirit. Some black grain was applied following the same method.
After a drying time of three days, the propeller was sealed with Vallejo semi gloss.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1385_zpsfb946c37.jpg)
The propeller hub was detailed by drilling a few wholes around the hub as can be seen on the windsock file (vol. 28). I used Alclad metal colours for spraying.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1386_zps95f6a0d4.jpg)
I am quite satisfied with the outcome, especially because the very subtle contast between the wood came out very nice.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1388_zps693535cd.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1393_zps97c54a8f.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1394_zps66d64583.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1396_zpsdc90ddcd.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1399_zpsd52270ba.jpg)
Hope you like it, all kinds of comments are warmly welcome,
Dirk
-
it's beautiful Dirk. You nailed it.
-
Propeller turned out very cool! Painting wood is amazing.
-
Beautiful work. The photos of the real item are replicated perfectly.
Steve
-
Dirk, I just finished my first "laminated" propeller and was quite
pleased with it...until I saw yours. Back to the drawing board! :-[
Best Regards, even though, ;)
Ernie
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I'm convinced!
Now, do you have the guts to go ahead and weather all that beautiful work to make it look as beat up as the rest of the beautiful bird? ;D I only ask because there's no way I would, but I know a craftsman such as yourself would do an excellent job of it. :)
Looking forward to the next update,
Lindsay
-
Dirk,
A genuine pleasure to folllow this excellent Build, lots being learned and your detailed presentation method helps a lot in that regard.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Very nice propellor. Strange shape though, but it looks like the real thing!
regards,
Ivo
-
Thanks guys for your feedback. I am still working on the fuselage and the struts in preparation for the final assembly and rigging. So here is an update on the weathered cowlings. The fuselage itself will be finally weathered by using pigments.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1408_zps2cffbe6e.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1403_zps0da8b0ff.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1404_zpse630cc61.jpg)
Cheers, Dirk
-
i have nothing to say other than WOW!
michael
-
totally convincing, brilliant!
-
Hello Dirk:
Prop is truly outstsanding. You nailed the subtle differences but yet you can see the lamiations. Very convincing. I am liking how it is turning out.
Best
Mark
-
Outstanding prop my friend.You've captured the life like appearence perfectly. Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Incredible craftsmanship Dirk. Simply beautiful work.
Cheers,
Chris
-
Hi everybody,
I have started with the rigging on the undercarriage. First I prepared some of the excellent photetch turnbuckles from Radu Brinzan. The buckles were masked on the center part which is in brass colour. The rest of the turnbuckle is sprayed in Alclad steel.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1410_zps90e702a9.jpg)
After studying Scott's scale drawing of the Fokker EIII at Windsock worldwide, I decided to create my own, more narrow type of turnbuckle for the undercarriage. I used 0.12 Fisherman's Fluorcarbon monofilament for more stability. One eyelet, made of .15 copper wire was sticked into 0.5 mm Albion tube while the monofilament was fixed to the other side. 0.05mm copper wire, bend around a 0.3mm drill was used to simulate the winding.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1413_zps80a69ddc.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1414_zps972880d1.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1415_zpsa2352cc7.jpg)
The rigging was done by using the 0.5mm Albion tube to fix the monofilament on the eyelets of undercarriage and the turnbuckles. I am not very happy with the albion tubes because they seem to be oversized as sleeves and don't correspond with the quite narrow turnbuckles.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1419_zpsc8b81630.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1427_zps8fe22074.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1428_zps481b35bf.jpg)
With greetings, Dirk
-
This continues to be an OUTSTANDING build! Beautiful work on the LG rigging and overall aircraft!!
RAGIII
-
Yep, outstanding is the word.
-
Allignment and appearance are absolutely perfect!!!
Steve
-
superb as always Dirk :)
michael
-
Next time you might decide to go for smaller tube sizes - those are available from Griffon, via Lucky Model in Hongkong.
Stefan
-
Hi all,
thanks to everybody for showing interest and given such an amount of constructive feedback.
To Stefan: Thanks for the tip using Griffon tubes. For the structural rigging I will use heat stretched Q-tips which prooved to be far more close to the original size.
Here is an update on my work on the wheels. For the effect of the underlying spokes the wheel cover was presprayed in Tamiya Linnen, masked and sprayed in Fokker Beige. Unlike other WNW's kits, the Manufactors label (Continental) on the wheels has no decal option.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1431_zpse43d75a3.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1434_zpsa71bd59f.jpg)
To bring out the lettering, first Tamiya white was sprayed and sealed with gloss varnish.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1436_zpsb557cd49.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1430_zpsde12dcd6.jpg)
The grey colour was applied and almost immediately sanded down on the lettering by using wet 12000 grain micromesh.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1439_zps97d57419.jpg)
With kind regards,
Dirk
-
Very nice Dirk!
You applied the technique on the lettersI tried for my D.VII, but I failed. Probably because I didn't use the suitable abrasve. Mmm, let's look for 12000 grain micromesh.
I think I should try that too for polishing Alclad copper. It works fine, but just isn't shiny enough yet.
regards.
Ivo
-
Hi Ivo,
I guess that it is not only because of the 12000 grain but also because of the use of water and I think it is also important to start the sanding almost immediately after spraying. Maybe some microfabric clothes or rough paper will do the sanding job as well.
Dirk
-
Dirk,
Beautiful work in progress my friend.Thanks for the great letter tip too.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Excellent results on a great solution for a tricky problem!!
Steve
-
Hi friends,
just a small update on the IMG 08/15 Spandau.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1351-2_zps8abd4faf.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1352-2_zps0e98b12d.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1353-2_zpsba7d79be.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1355-2_zpsc3fcc8fa.jpg)
Cheers, Dirk
-
Dirk,
i am not sure, maybe it's just the photos, but it looks like the paint does not cover the inside of the lMG completely?
Stefan
-
Hi Stefan,
well, the makrofunction on digital cameras is non forgiving and in many cases, problematic areas are revealed were an eye gets to its limits. But in this case, I think the effects was caused by the light...
Thanks a lot for your feedback, Dirk
are Dirk,
i am not sure, maybe it's just the photos, but it looks like the paint does not cover the inside of the lMG completely?
Stefan
-
Looking terrific! Your MG is very well done! Getting even better with each update.
RAGIII
-
Hi friends,
underwing rigging is almost done except painting the turnbuckles, the wiring and so on. I have used 0.12 mm monofilament for structural rigging.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1461-2_zpsdbea5232.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1456-2_zpsf0c7981c.jpg)
The monofilament was glued to the points neear the cockpit. 0.05 copper wire and albion tubes were used for the turnbuckles. the buckles were prepainted in their color-code while the rest of the turnbuckles will be painted after the rigging is done.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1457-2_zps3cd74dce.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1463_zpsdaa33ba3.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1459-2_zpsa9e506a8.jpg)
The monofilament was tentioned on the outer wing points by using a heavy soldering tweezer. The turnbuckles have been secured with superglue after the monofilament was fixed.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1464_zps943e1501.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1466_zps7a6a8002.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1468_zps86bde983.jpg)
At least this was a very time consuming process and I hope that the later structural rigging on the upper side of the wing will correspond to the tension on the downside. I am very interested in your experiences with rigging Eindeckers, cause this is some premier for me...
With kind regards, Dirk
-
Premier or no premier, the results are most impressive. Very well done.
Stefan
-
Superb as always.
-
Another fine example of model engineering!!!
Steve
-
Excellent, you have my admiration!
-
this is gonna look stunning :)
michael
-
As all of the others have stated this is outstanding work! Your rigging is turning out fantastic!!
RAGIII
-
What would an Eindecker be without it's spider-web? You are
doing a great job, Dirk! Looking forward to the top-side photos.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Best Regards,
Ernie
-
Dear friends,
here are some pics of the rigging of the top side. The overall structural rigging was done by using 0.12 Fluorcarbon monofilament. I chose structural rigging instead of EZ-Line because of my suspicion that the wings will tend to bend downwards due to time and force of grafity.
Planing the steps of rigging was essential because after the top side rigging, the plane can't be laid on its back anymore. The rigging of the under side of the wings was done in back position with some tension on the monofilament.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1468_zps86bde983.jpg)
First I added the control cables for the rudder and the elevators by fiddling a piece of bended copper wire through the whole and fixing the monofilament on the end of the wire with Cyanacrylat.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1469_zps21fde5ec.jpg)
After the plane was turned on its carriage, the monofilament plunged down a little bit due to the weight of the wings.
For the rigging of the upper side, the tips of the wings were placed on revells acrylic pots. This caused to bend the wings towards the upper direction and let the bottom monofilament gets its tension back. The upper rigging was prefixed and clamps, weigthened with extra clothespins kept the monofilament tight.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1470_zpsc819b18e.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1472_zps045286e2.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1472_zps045286e2.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1473_zps846e121a.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1476_zps55897b4a.jpg)
All upper monofilaments were fixed with Cyanacrylat in one step of procedure. After letting the Fokker back on its carriage again, the tension was evenly spread throughout the under and upper side of the wing.
Happy to share this with you after this delicate step is done... :P
Cheers, Dirk
-
brilliant, thank you for sharing your procedure, I will be referring to it for certain!
-
I'm speechless ...
I understand that at the end of the cables contribute to the rigidity of the assembly as in real one!
-
@bo: thanks for your feedback. Your comments are much appreciated especially because they come from the much admired nanotechnology fraction :) Keep on your exceptional work!
@mc65: Thanks for your comment. The most difficult thing with structural rigging is that the tension of an cable can influens the tightness of other cables, so it is better to fix the cables in one step. I had to learn this by the hard way while rigging the tail of my FE2b :o
Kind regards, Dirk
-
Hi everybody,
the following pictures show my Fokker after the rigging has been completed. The buckles haven't been fixed at all and the cables still have to be painted.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1509_zps9be4fe84.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1491_zps5f306c70.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1489_zps8376ff11.jpg)
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
-
The model looks amazing, Dirk. I really like
the weathering on the wheels and metal
work. Were the wheels weathered with powders?
Best Regards,
Ernie
-
@ernie: Hi Ernie, thanks for your kind words. For the wheels, I have used MIG Pigments (Dark Mud and Russian earth), solved with some water. You can also use Milled Pastels.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Amazing work. All the processes you use go in a file for future reference.. Theres a few of you here that should be published in the " Big Book of Great War Airplane Modelling Techniques" - guess the acronym is BOGWAMT
Steve
-
Dirk,
It's is becoming a really beautiful and through the weathering an almost real life bird.
More inspiration for my A.1!
regards,
Ivo
-
Dirk,
She just keeps getting more beautiful with each new update my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Dear friends,
while beeing heavily engaged in my job last week I still would like to show you some pics of my nearly completed E.II. I have checked the references on my specific aircraft and noticed that the Garuda propeller wasn't used. So I have to prepare the Germania prop and find some substitute for the already used rear propellerhub. Anyway, here are the "Garuda Pics" unveiled and without cowling.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1519_zpse4b39886.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1513_zps6e22bbdb.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1514_zps175387e3.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1510_zps8f9c409c.jpg)
All kinds of comments are welcome.
Cheers Dirk
-
Truly a model to be proud of, Dirk. It looks fantastic
all rigged. Wow! :)
Cheers,
Ernie
-
a truly exceptional piece of work Dirk - fantastic
michael
-
Magnificent Dirk, I like all of it! As many have already stated, I'll be coming back to this Thread a lot once I get up the courage to try this one.
Cheers,
Lance
-
All kinds of comments are welcome.
What can I say? Other than it is a real beauty to be admired and to be used as a reference for any future build.
As all kind of comments are welcome I could give only one: The wheels and tires are a little bit too dirty to my taste.
But it is a plane to be proud of.
regards,
Ivo
-
Dirk: A masterpiece, galaxy-class, congratulations. Your build log has been filled with tons of of great ideas we can all apply to our models; I thank you for that and hope that there is more to come!
Cheers
--Bo
-
Fabulous work!!
Steve
-
Brilliant is about the best word I can use to describe your model, the finish, the rigging, every aspect of your work is superb, this is one of the best Eindeckers I have ever seen, extremely well done.
Des.
-
Dirk,
I’d like to echo all the previous comments.
Any build log is an interesting & valuable resource of tips, ideas & so on. However the level seen in this build (plus many others on the forum) really does inspire & pull the rest of us along.
Russell
-
Dirk,
Without question one of the nicest Fokker Es' I have seen! Well done Indeed!!
RAGIII
-
Brilliant model indeed.. can only second what's been said before :-)
Looks very realistic!
Grtz
Flip
-
What a beauty!
Can't add nothing more to what's been said.
Trully an amazing work. Congrats for that.
Cheers
-
I can not do anything but join the chorus of praises ... beautiful! ;) ;) ;)
-
Wow, missed most of this and just caught up. Beautiful work Dirk!
Andrew
-
Hi friends,
thanks a lot for your encouraging replies. Without your support, work would be half as good.
Meanwhile I have worked on the Germania Propeller which is the proper type for my E.II. The rear hub was already in use for the Garuda prop, so a replacement hub has been punched out of a WNW LVG prop.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1451_zpsae312292.jpg)
The hole for the original hub was filled with some sprue and sanded down.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1452_zpseb2df0a1.jpg)
The prop got its future sealed base coat and was masked.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1526_zps1181ea80.jpg)
A mixture of the basic wood, brown and mahagony was used for the darker wood.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1527_zps78644d70.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1529_zpseff4e246.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1528_zpsf2c6dc4c.jpg)
Some gloss clear varnish was used before applying the wooden grain with oil paints.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1531_zpsbff29182.jpg)
So here's the result:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1577_zps11020b2a.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1578_zpsff1491ef.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1575_zps50e17ea0.jpg)
And the two props side by side:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/DSCN1581_zps5b2fe725.jpg)
with kind regards,
Dirk
-
Excellent result, beautiful prop. As I followed your photographs I wondered why you started masking the laminations with tape (seems to be too much work and it might never be accurate enough and it leaves some small edges), but after seeing what you have done with the oil paint (and probably some extra work too) it looks just fine! Superb detail on a already superb plane.
regards,
Ivo
-
Beautiful job on the props, Dirk. They both really
look the part! Thanks for the information on how
you did it. Great help.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Trully an amazing work in that prop.
Thank you for showing us how you do it.
Cheers
-
Excellent result, beautiful prop. As I followed your photographs I wondered why you started masking the laminations with tape (seems to be too much work and it might never be accurate enough and it leaves some small edges), but after seeing what you have done with the oil paint (and probably some extra work too) it looks just fine! Superb detail on a already superb plane.
regards,
Ivo
Hi Ivo,
thanks for your feedback. I am very interested in your way of painting the laminations. Masking was quite helpful especially because of the symmetrical character of the laminations on the blades. The coat of darker wood shows a significant differece in height due to the extra layers. This leads to a fine "Lamination effect" especially on more homogenic toned laminated props, i.e. the Garuda. But back to my question: How do you paint laminated timber? Thanks in advice.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Hello Dirk,
My first and until now only laminated prop wasn't painted but I used several color pencils. The problem I would have with the tape is that especially the curved edges are difficult for me.
Here (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1288.msg24447#msg24447) you can see how I did it. Those pencils will be available in Germany too at any artstore.
But I like to see other techniques and I like your result very much.
regards,
Ivo
-
Great prop Dirk. When you put on the initial colours I thought - no way theyre off - but then you worked it a bit more and theyre perfect. On a side note - after reading Ivo`s prop thread I have been meaning to ask - How do you thin the Tamiya colours for airbrushing or do you use them unthinned - sorry for the lack of question mark - the cat walked on the keyboard and now its a É
Steve
-
Great prop Dirk. When you put on the initial colours I thought - no way theyre off - but then you worked it a bit more and theyre perfect. On a side note - after reading Ivo`s prop thread I have been meaning to ask - How do you thin the Tamiya colours for airbrushing or do you use them unthinned - sorry for the lack of question mark - the cat walked on the keyboard and now its a É
Steve
Hi Steve,
thanks for your reply. The Tamiya colours look dickey once applied but the oil paints do their job as filters quite well. For the Tamiya colours i used their special acrylic thinner in a 1:1 proportion. Their thinner contains alcohol and water which acts as a retarder and results in a very smooth surface. If you try to use alcohol with a ratio over 98% the drying process will be so fast that the laquer dries before it reaches the surface. The result is an almost grainy texture. Hope this helps.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Bingo!!! The science is key. My 99% isoprop is drying it too fast. Thanks!!
Steve
-
Ditto on the Tamiya thinner, it's da sh*t. FWIW I usually thin it about 1:2 (paint:thinner).
-
Guess I`ll bite the bullet and buy the Tam thinner for the gloss finishes. Does it come in gallon jugs.......É
Steve
-
Guess I`ll bite the bullet and buy the Tam thinner for the gloss finishes. Does it come in gallon jugs.......É
Steve
Don't think so, but the large jug (about a pint I guess?) lasts a good long time if you just using it for thinning paint -- save the cheap stuff for cleanup.
-
Hi friends,
yesterday I had some daillight photo shooting of my finished Fokker. In the next days I will be busy in creating a base and adding one pilot's figure from Moder Cellar to the scene. But neverless I like the Fokker and her ethereous appearence in front of this white background.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5525_zpsba733633.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5480_zpsec5533a1.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1662-2_zps95d8b5e6.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5478_zps86c76604.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5461_zpsdc9b185f.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5454_zps905bf698.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1634-2_zps8ca90f52.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/IMG_5449_zps3110f227.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1708-2_zps6b211bf7.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1700-2_zpsd45f1784.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1698-2_zpse7dd1e3b.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1704-2_zps1da4b341.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1695-2_zps6a2f4e91.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1665-2_zps1bc65b81.jpg)
All kind of comments are welcome.
Cheers, Dirk
-
Absolutely superb Dirk! This looks like the quintessential Eindecker to me. Beautiful finish and details, with well-executed rigging. Great job!
Regards,
Bob
-
Congratulations Dirk, it is spectacular. I love the flare gun holster.
-
Dirk, really an oustanding, stunning E.II. It will be a reference for me once I tackle how to make a A.1 / M.8 using parts of WNW.
regards,
Ivo
-
That's beautiful, Dirk. As Ivo says, just stunning. I haven't seen a better Eindekker build.
Dal.
-
Dirk,
Fantastic job all round. I'll certainly be referring to this build log when I come to build mine.
Tom
-
Dirk,
Fantastic job all round. I'll certainly be referring to this build log when I come to build mine.
Tom
Dirk,
What Tom said, and more! Congratulations and my compliments on a truly beautifully done Model.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Great looking Eindecker.
Couldn't be any better imo.
Congrats for such a beautiful model.
Cheers
-
Dirk, congratulations on a wonderful model! I can't think
of anything you have not done with this beautiful Eindecker.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Dirk,
She's nothing short of awesome my friend. A fitting tribute to the highest levels of skill and craftsmanship. Congratulations and Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Beautiful work!!
Steve
-
You made this model with great precision and attention to every detail.
Congratulations.
Adam.
-
Beautiful work! I just received my WnW E.III and I hope to produce with as much attention to details as you have shown. Brilliant! How long all up did it take you to complete?
-
Beautiful work! I just received my WnW E.III and I hope to produce with as much attention to details as you have shown. Brilliant! How long all up did it take you to complete?
Hello Fred,
thanks a lot for your ind words. To your question: It took about 31/2 months to complete the Fokker. At around 80-90 hrs I guess. The paintwork on the cowling was very time consuming and also the work on the cockpit.
With greetings from Germany,
Dirk
-
Hi friends,
thank you so much for your replies. I have been busy on constructing a base for my Fokker. The pilot is Modell Cellar Productions "Werner Voss" and the base is from "Model Scene". This is my first experience in building a base and adding a figure to the scene I had lots of difficulties in painting the pilot and also in finding the right camera perspective. Lots of respect to all diaroma builders! So this are my first efforts.
Cheers, Dirk
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1745_zpsd196ff65.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1737_zps1901a76b.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1738_zps598e58fc.jpg)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/dirk1966/Fokker%20E%20III%20early/DSCN1727_zps5ec98397.jpg)
-
That is just beautiful Dirk! The Eindecker looks like the real thing sitting on the turf in the low level perspective. Very nice!
Regards,
Bob
-
Hi Dirk.
Very nice diorama. If it's your first then you should do it often.
About the camera perspective... no worries, it's quite good from any angle imo.
Great job and nice pics.
Cheers
-
That is just beautiful Dirk! The Eindecker looks like the real thing sitting on the turf in the low level perspective. Very nice!
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob,
thanks for your reply. I guess that any perspective that can be taken from a spectator standing near the plane is the right. For this reason I will closely study the pics from airshows.
Greetings, Dirk
-
Hello Dirk:
Outstanding work. I will be referring to your build log when I do mine. Thanks for sharing.
Best
Mark
-
Lovely, lovely work Dirk. From the base to the pilot to the exemplary Eindecker ;)
Beautifully done.
Andrew
-
The base looks good, Dirk. Together with the beautiful plane and
figure, it is right on. Well done. :)
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Gorgeous work, worthy of respect and emulation! I watched from beginning to end, a lot of fun!
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Hi Dirk.
Very nice diorama. If it's your first then you should do it often.
About the camera perspective... no worries, it's quite good from any angle imo.
Great job and nice pics.
Cheers
Thanks a lot, Fabu
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The base looks good, Dirk. Together with the beautiful plane and
figure, it is right on. Well done. :)
Cheers,
Ernie :)
Hi Ernie,
thanks for your kind words. It was a pleasure to have your support during this build.
Dirk
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Absolutely gorgeous, Dirk! Everything about this one is top notch.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Dirk:
Outstanding work. I will be referring to your build log when I do mine. Thanks for sharing.
Best
Mark
Hi Mark thanks a lot for watching my build and your comments. I hope that winter has left its cold creepy fingers from wisconsin for at least a few weeks. ;) (I was very impressed by yor outdoor winterpics of your beautiful LVG)
Good to have you here on zhe forum.
Cheers,
Dirk
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Absolutely gorgeous, Dirk! Everything about this one is top notch.
Cheers,
Bud
Hi Bud,
thanks for your feedback and support during the build. Much appreciated.
Cheers, Dirk
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Excellent results on the Eindecker! beautiful inside and out! Your diorama base is also Very Well Done!
RAGIII