forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: gedmundson on November 21, 2021, 11:30:52 AM
-
Hi folks, I've recently acquired some spoked wheels from Steven Robson for my WnW Albatros B.II and am therefore committed to build it. I made a start, and wanted to share a few pictures. I still need to receive some engine cylinder primer cups and CDL decals from Aviattic, but am bashing ahead with other bits and pieces. I wanted to emulate that translucent look to the underside of the upper wing, and have painted the shadows needed that will be covered by the Aviattic CDL decal eventually.
My Felixstowe will have to wait a little bit longer.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/WVdYMI9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5hB5jUE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eYHBIIw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ1XKUu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XylM6N4.jpg)
-
Beautiful!
Kent
-
Outstanding Start! The wing and prop are Gorgeous!
RAGIII
-
Gary, very nice to see again some art from your bench!
The wheels are really impressive :o
Cheers,
Frank
-
Good start Gary and what a wonderful prop and wing!
Will look forward to seeing motr of your progress on this one.
Regards
Dave
-
Inspiring start! I've got one and will follow along and take any hints. So far - wheels and translucency... 😀
/F
-
Hi Gary,
Lovely start on your B.II.
The next time you come across Steven RobO Robson would you please send him my best regards? I haven't been able to keep in touch with the old boy since my departure from FarceBook. Appreciate it!
Cheers,
Bob
-
Lovely start. I am expecting a feast to my eyes.
-
Nice start, Gary. Robson wheels?
-
Oh my......I'm lost for words, the prop and wing panel are simply stunning!
-
Outstanding start, Gary. I think the translucent look will turn out really nice with the Aviattic decals. Great idea.
Bye,
Manni
-
Following this one closely !
Alexis
-
Thanks for all of the kind comments and words of encouragement from everyone!
The next time you come across Steven RobO Robson would you please send him my best regards? I haven't been able to keep in touch with the old boy since my departure from FarceBook. Appreciate it!
Cheers,
Bob
No problem, Bob - I've been in touch with Steven and passed along your regards.
-
Nice start, Gary. Robson wheels?
Yes Ken - Steven made the wheels. Not cheap, and they take a while him to produce to them...but they'll hopefully look good on the finished model.
Cheers,
Gary
-
A further update on this "translucent wing" idea I had. The base pattern of the top wing underside was WAY too vivid. After temporarily placing a test piece of Aviattic CDL over it, the pattern showed through too much. These decals are VERY transparent. So after toning down the pattern with more of the white base colour, I was able to achieve a bit better effect. The photo shows the toned down pattern, and the Aviattic CDL decal (not yet trimmed) to the right. Still not overly happy - but this is a steep learning curve.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/FlbbTyt.jpg)
-
Stunning!
RAGIII
-
No problem, Bob - I've been in touch with Steven and passed along your regards.
(https://c.tenor.com/KOwL-etspd8AAAAM/magic-shia-labeouf.gif)
-
Amazing work Gary! What's not to love, but I really like your cockpit woodgrain,
and of course the translucent wings. Looking forward to the next installment!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Rick and Ernie - thanks for that! Rather than use the WnW "woodgrain" decals I'll be painting my own on using oil paint. Here's the instrument panel front & back with some brass handles on the fuel selector system made with 0.5mm brass tubing. I bent and squished them into shape following a tip I'd got from Lance Carroll a few years back! They aren't positioned properly, so I'll have to do that before finalizing the cockpit installation.
(https://i.imgur.com/meoXaXb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SnKH09m.jpg)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Really nice work on the "plumbing" and fuel selectors Gary, and the translucent wing effect is very effective. I like where you're taking this Build, she's going to be a real "stunner"! Looking forward to seeing more.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Nice progress and an interesting process for the wings - watching....
Steve
-
Instruments, switches, dials, and plumbing look great!
RAGIII
-
Amazing workmanship on those panels!
-
Great work on the cockpit continues! And as for the translucent wings I have too agree, that there is something not fully convincing in it. I usually prefer using airbrush to make the linen. My feeling is that getting the convincing and overall uniform effects with semi-transparent decals is difficult.
-
Beautiful wood effect on your instrument panel, Gary
Coming along nicely.
Regards
Dave
-
Thanks so much for the positive comments to everyone! I've put together all I need before buttoning up the fuselage and had a couple of pics of the cockpit sub-assembly. Because the seatbelts bent at an awkward spot (where the spring was) I lengthened them with a bit of copper wire to make things work better.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/jyxfcc0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y6r8kCH.jpg)
-
Absolutely Lovely work!
RAGIII
-
Excellent job.
-
Really wonderful Gary
Spyros
-
Inspirational! My own B.II is moving up on the list of possible next builds...
/Fredrik
-
Hi folks, I've recently acquired some spoked wheels from Steven Robson for my WnW Albatros B.II and am therefore committed to build it. I made a start, and wanted to share a few pictures. I still need to receive some engine cylinder primer cups and CDL decals from Aviattic, but am bashing ahead with other bits and pieces. I wanted to emulate that translucent look to the underside of the upper wing, and have painted the shadows needed that will be covered by the Aviattic CDL decal eventually.
My Felixstowe will have to wait a little bit longer.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/WVdYMI9.jpg)
Is that Honduras or African mahogany the prop is made from ;)
Cheers
Andrew
Great stuff
(https://i.imgur.com/5hB5jUE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eYHBIIw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ1XKUu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XylM6N4.jpg)
-
Very nice pit!!!
Steve
-
That cockpit looks fantastic, Gary! There's some beautiful detail work in there.
-
I love the work.
One thing I found with my build of this kit. The struts are very thin and will need to be strengthened.
I built mine a couple of years ago now and it all went together very well. But now it has been sitting around for some time, almost half of the struts have bowed.
Something to consider when you start to work on the wings.
-
Beautiful start, all the details are outstanding.
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
Again - thanks to all for the encouraging words on the build so far!
I love the work.
One thing I found with my build of this kit. The struts are very thin and will need to be strengthened.
I built mine a couple of years ago now and it all went together very well. But now it has been sitting around for some time, almost half of the struts have bowed.
Something to consider when you start to work on the wings.
Thanks for the heads-up. Not sure how I'd strengthen the struts, to be honest?
I did receive a mail-call today and can progress on the kit's engine now that I have the 1/32 scale resin primer cups from Aviattic. Here are a couple of photos with the one on the end cleaned up with a blade. They seem good in size and detail is fine.
I also closed up the back of the fuselage and the fit was quite good - very minimal gap filling with epoxy putty needed.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/VUMlJKt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KSeKUMF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HGZ9H6J.jpg)
-
Looks Awesome!
RAGIII
-
Let me check...yes I have turned completely green with envy...
Steve
-
Excellent progress, Gary!
Really nice work. ;)
Bob
-
(https://i.imgur.com/Y6r8kCH.jpg)
Hi Gary,
Excellent work so far! How did you do those turned wires in the picture above? They look phenomenal.
Best,
Tim
-
Wow!
Stunning work in the cockpit, Gary
Regards
Dave
-
Stunning work, Gary!
-
Hi Gary,
Excellent work so far! How did you do those turned wires in the picture above? They look phenomenal.
Best,
Tim
Thanks Tim! If you're referring to the springs on the seat belts - I wrapped some fine copper wire (0.010") around a 0.021" drill bit about thirty turns, then removed it from the bit. I then inserted a slightly thicker piece of copper wire (0.15") where the drill bit used to be, and bent it into a circle, cutting off the surplus. The end is covered with thin lead sheet.
The copper wire is just strands from old salvaged electrical cords.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Some lovely work on display Gary, great workmanship!
Andrew
-
Thanks so much to everyone who has taken the time to comment on my build so far.
The fuselage needs to be given a wood grain finish, which is dark according to references. I'm choosing to paint my own pattern on the model, and make it slightly lighter in appearance. I've base coated the surface with a buff/flat earth mix of Tamiya paints, and gloss coated that. Over that, I've started to add a dilute oil paint mix of ochre, burnt sienna, and a touch of black, making a medium brown. Thinned with mineral spirits, the mix is being applied to separate panels with an old brush, taped off to finish a few at a time.
The mix is applied, and as it dries out, streaked in a laminar fashion to create a sort-of wood grain look. Hopefully a couple of days drying will allow me to continue more of the panels.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/DBX9oLT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Fkj7rLF.jpg)
-
Interesting technique - but it surely works!
-
Very fine wood technique.
-
How long are You waiting until You start to streak the paint?
-
How long are You waiting until You start to streak the paint?
You ask a good question - and it depends on how thinned the paint is. But I've learned over practice to smear it on, then wait about 3 minutes...then work the lines in. Going over it a few times....adding more paint sometimes...keep working it until all appears right. Sometimes a brush mark or smudge will render the whole thing useless. I use old oil paint that has very little "oil" left in it which helps drying time. Plus adding mineral spirits helps get rid of the oil too.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thank You Gary.
-
The wood grain effect looks beautiful to me. Excellent results.
RAGIII
-
You always impress me , top notch Gary .
Alexis
-
Thanks everyone for the kind words! Progress has been made on my engine which needed those Aviattic primer cups. I had to make spark plugs from big bolts (shaved off spare AFV model parts) and thin styrene rod. I also decided after painting my intake manifold a beautiful copper colour to wrap insulation around it with Tamiya tape. Most of the period photos showed it. The ignition wires were done with 0.10" lead wire.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/4t4VddU.jpg)
Primer cups from Aviattic added with spark plugs made from scraps.
(https://i.imgur.com/zNh6bjO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CI7DvH8.jpg)
-
Beautiful work on the engine!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful work on the engine!
RAGIII
Second that !
Alexis
-
Ok I'll join the choir Gary...beautiful job of the engine!
Your modelling is truly a cut above.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Perfect subtle weathering!!
Steve
-
Very nice Gary. Enjoying following along with your progress.
Stuart
-
Lot's of engines being built around the forum and each one looking fantastic! Those primer cups really add to an otherwise superb engine.
/Fredrik
-
Fantastic progress on the Albatros. I really like the engine!
Andreas
-
Thanks everyone for the comments on the engine - and now I have something to put it into. I got the wood grain painting on the fuselage done, one panel at a time. Then painted some details. Next will be decals & the nail heads.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/7r8MTRv.jpg)
-
Beautiful woodgrain, Gary. That's going to be one impressive build.
Kevin
-
The different grain on each panel looks great Gary, just as I'd expect on the real deal. Well done!
-
Beautifully painted wood!
-
Simply Gorgeous work Gary!
RAGIII
-
Gary, so many nice grey green details on a wonderful wood - that is a beautiful model!
Cheers,
Frank
-
Very nice wood work! Very inspriational indeed!
/Fredrik
-
That's looking GOOD!
-
Very nice!! The individual panel work is very effective
Steve
-
Beautiful and realistic woodgrain Gary, one of the best I saw up to now!
Antonio
-
Amazing job Gary, just beautiful woodgrain with so much detail.
-
Stunning, Gary -
Such realistic wood grain and tones on your fuselage
Regards
Dave
-
One of the disadvantages of the WnW kit-supplied decals for the wood grain on the fuselage is that they cover up the minute depressions molded into the plastic representing nail marks. Since I painted on my woodgrain, I was able to enhance this detail with a tiny bit of diluted dark oil paint.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/c1ABArY.jpg)
-
Lovely!
-
That is awesome! I didn't realize WNW had done the Nail Pattern on this one!
RAGIII
-
Stunning work, looks absolutely real Gary!
Have you ever posted your technique for applying woodgrain, would like to see how you make it look so real.
-
Getting better and better Gary, keep on!
-
Have you ever posted your technique for applying woodgrain, would like to see how you make it look so real.
That would be very interesting indeed
-
Stunning work, looks absolutely real Gary!
Have you ever posted your technique for applying woodgrain, would like to see how you make it look so real.
Thanks Grant, I did post a couple of photos of this earlier, but will clarify my method here with a few steps I take.
1. Airbrush on a coat of light tan, for example Tamiya Buff XF-57
2. Gloss coat this with a coat of X-22
3. When the gloss is quite dry, mix up various measures of oil paint colours (and I try to use Winsor & Newton series 1). I place a dollop of each colour on a sheet of plastic, and mix them with mineral spirit in a spot in the middle.I think it's best to use older tubes of paint that have lost a lot of their linseed oil, or put the oil paint on a piece of cardboard first to "wick off" some of the oil since it will take longer to dry with the oil present. The oil paint colours I used on this build were Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Raw Umber. The burnt sienna will give a very reddish look to the mix, so I add less of that.
When I'm satisfied with the colour, I add enough mineral spirit to make a mixture to smear into place on the model's glossy tan surface as in that photo at the bottom of page 3 of this thread. You can also see the old paint brush I use to make the streaks of woodgrain.
4. After smearing on the paint, I start to make streaks of grain, and as the paint dries over the course of a few minutes, the streaks start to take shape better as the mineral spirit dries off a bit.
5. After all streaks look good, and there are no smudges, odd lines, and no finger prints (!) I set it carefully aside for a couple of days.
6. It's best to work on small sections at a time, then when they are dry (at least a couple of days) then I gloss coat them and continue with the next sections.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thank you Gary for taking the time to describe your method. I will have to give this a try as your results are tryly amazing 👏
-
That trick to pick out the nails is very clever Gary, top job!
-
The results are fantastic, Gary. Very realistic!
-
There has been a significant amount of time between my last update and this one due to trouble with my ability to work with the CDL decals for the wing surfaces. I realized early on that the shadows appearing under the decal needed to be more subtle than I'd planned, and that I also couldn't decided whether to have dark or lighter lines on the upper surfaces representing the rib and spar detail showing through. Also - the surface has to be QUITE glossy to prevent any silvering under the decals, and that it's imperative to apply them using warm, if not hot water for soaking. Even though I'm somewhat pleased with the "fabric" look, I'm not sure if I'd want to attempt this approach again.
The photo shows the upper surfaces of one of the upper and lower wings. I hope that I can now progress through the rest of the build without any more grief.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/0xA5q7n.jpg)
-
Awesome look to the wing fabric, this is going to be a beautiful aeroplane when completed.
-
It might have presented challenges but the results speak for themselves! Gorgeous work!
RAGIII
-
Looks superb to my eye.
Well done!
Bob ;)
-
Those rib shadows look fantastic! I think you've nailed it.
-
That's the ticket Gary ;)
It's perfect
Alexis
-
Gary, here I see some fantastic work on the wings... wow!
-
The results look great in the photos, Gary. If there was silvering, now I do not see any traces of it.
But I understand fully your problems with application of decals and preshading. I was through the same. And I can only say, Airbrushing is so much simpler... Yet, sometimes it is necessary to apply the large decal sheets, as in the losenge case.
BTW, could you tell us if you anyhow polished the wings before applying the gloss undercoat paint?
-
My thanks to all who took the time to write a comment on my wings - glad you liked them!
The results look great in the photos, Gary. If there was silvering, now I do not see any traces of it.
But I understand fully your problems with application of decals and preshading. I was through the same. And I can only say, Airbrushing is so much simpler... Yet, sometimes it is necessary to apply the large decal sheets, as in the losenge case.
BTW, could you tell us if you anyhow polished the wings before applying the gloss undercoat paint?
Thanks Prze - I made sure there was no silvering on the tops of the wings...but the tail section and underside of the main wings has a bit that I'll disguise with weathering touches. I also re-did some of the under-wing decals by cutting sections out, then spraying glossier, then adding more expensive CDL decal. I think that the lozenge patterns don't show silvering as much as the CDL - this is my first time working with large sections of CDL. I did no pre-polishing of the wings before applying gloss coat. To economize on the gloss coat, I went out and bought a fresh bottle of Pledge floor acrylic (Future). I'd abandoned this a while ago only to use Tamiya X-22, since I'd had "cracking" of the finish on a couple of other projects using floor acrylic...perhaps applying it too thick in one go (not sure). But to eliminate the silvering I applied the Pledge in thin layers, and lots of it, so my surface was very shiny.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Quick question Gary, spray Future or brush?
Steve
-
Quick question Gary, spray Future or brush?
Steve
Hi Steve, I airbrush the Future on. Straight from the bottle, with no dilutant. Numerous passes with a fine setting.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thank you very much, Gary for the explanation and hints. I will try Future next time when I will apply Aviattic decals on WNW wings.
Good luck with the rest of this gorgeous build!
-
I see I have some catching up to do on all these builds here in “Under construction”.
The woodgrain is wonderful, so realistic, thanks for sharing you technique! And the nails come out beautifully in the paneling. The wings with CDL decals look great, especially with the subtle rib and spar accents.
I will follow this build closely from now on Gary!
Willem
-
Here's a couple of photos of the engine sitting in it's mount before I button the cowling on. At least a fair bit of it is seen afterward.
The windscreen in this kit is quite a big one. I like to give windscreen glazing a slightly "smoked" look, since that's how it appears to me in photos and generally when looking at glass from a distance. I took Tamiya X-19 Smoke, and tinted it slightly with clear blue X-23. Rather than airbrushing it on (which creates a foggy, grainy flat look) I carefully brushed it on the inside of the windscreen, working quickly. It dries fairly fast, so the odds of making a mess are high. The instructions asked for a silver frame, which I painted with ModelMaster chrome enamel with a touch of black oil paint to take the stark appearance out of it.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/J2zY9Ol.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MCKT5j0.jpg)
-
Beautiful so far Gary and I will have to remember that trick with the glass .
Alexis
-
Marvelous looking work, Gary. The metal tones on the engine really make it pop!
-
Wow, this looks gorgeous! Excellent job!
Ondra
-
Gorgeous work! That windscreen looks Fantastic.
RAGIII
-
The windscreen is inspired, it looks just right. Excellent work Gary - I'll have to get some Smoke on my next trip to the LHS!
-
Gary, lovely and crisp looking work so far. That windscreen looks amazing.
-
Great, the engine does the job!
However, why not leave the upper engine covers off - you will have that jewel better exposed for curious eyes! I have done so on my B.II some time ago and I do not regret it ;)
-
Great, the engine does the job!
However, why not leave the upper engine covers off - you will have that jewel better exposed for curious eyes! I have done so on my B.II some time ago and I do not regret it ;)
Agree with Prze , why hind the engine detail , it is spectacular
Alexis
-
Great, the engine does the job!
However, why not leave the upper engine covers off - you will have that jewel better exposed for curious eyes! I have done so on my B.II some time ago and I do not regret it ;)
Great, the engine does the job!
However, why not leave the upper engine covers off - you will have that jewel better exposed for curious eyes! I have done so on my B.II some time ago and I do not regret it ;)
Agree with Prze , why hind the engine detail , it is spectacular
Alexis
Thanks for that Alexis and Prze - I appreciate the feedback. This is the one build that I seriously considered doing just that - leaving off the engine cowlings. My builds have always had the cowlings buttoned up no matter how much work went into the engine. I like making the engine look good....it's fun. However I like to display my models as they would have looked when they flew. My favourite example (although not WW1 related) is a Spitfire, which has such a nice look with everything fastened up for flight (landing gear aside). I wouldn't even open the canopy, since I like the "ready for flight" configuration.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Your an amazing artist, such clean precious work!
I would have never thought about your window tinting application, very smart idea with amazing results.
I have been practicing applying your wood technique for my Fokker DR1 cockpit floor. After several attempts it turned pretty good for a rookie, thank you for sharing your method.
I will post pictures of my progress soon, just hard to find modelling time.
You inspire me Gary, truly amazing craftsmanship!
Best,
Grant
-
Incredible work, Gary!
Thanks for sharing.
::) ::) ::)
Bob
-
Thanks Grant and Bob for your comments!
I have been practicing applying your wood technique for my Fokker DR1 cockpit floor. After several attempts it turned pretty good for a rookie, thank you for sharing your method.
I will post pictures of my progress soon, just hard to find modelling time.
Best,
Grant
Again thanks Grant - I'm happy you were able to work from my summarized description of how I do that. You no doubt will have to experiment with how much to thin the paint, how much to load on the brush, how long to work it etc. I certainly have to experiment myself every time I attempt this. I'm so glad you found my words helpful. Your kind words have made my day ;)
Cheers,
Gary
-
That is an epic build!
All the parts on the very sharp pictures looks fantastic, with a magic unreal aura. That is a model from another star ...
Wow!
Cheers,
Frank
-
That is an epic build!
All the parts on the very sharp pictures looks fantastic, with a magic unreal aura. That is a model from another star ...
Wow!
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank - that's very kind of you to say so :)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi mates,
Just outbreathing !! Accurate, realistic ! I love it ! :D
Best regards.
Alain.
-
Absolutely stunning! What a great Albatros, Gary!
Andreas
-
Well I’ll pile on with everyone else here; Gary this just outstanding modeling. Your paintwork is exemplary and I think all would agree, a master class in how it’s done. Thank you so much for sharing!
Jimbo
-
Thanks to Jimbo, Andreas, and Alain for your kind comments - I appreciate that!
I had to re-attach the rear cabane struts to the fuselage after snapping them off during a "pilot error" incident. The radiators and associated piping fit like a dream in typical WnW fashion. The upper fuel tank was painted with Alclad Copper, then given patina using Tamiya smoke.
After buttoning up the cowling I have had the arduous task of now preparing for the rigging before attaching the wings & tail. I'm attempting to use Gaspatch turnbuckles for the first time. These are the smaller 1/48 scale metal ones which I have been told look more the part on a 1/32 scale aircraft, and have to agree. I tried to drill out the holes a bit bigger using my miniature drill bits, but after breaking three of them, I gave up and will have to carefully push my rigging line through a tight hole.
I'm attaching the "C" type using loops made of fine copper wire, so that they can swing into position as I pull my E-Z Line tight. In the case of this aircraft, the rigging in the wings mostly attaches to the struts.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/8LnUqvP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MuEQl57.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KOG0i9M.jpg)
-
You continue to build a beauty! That plumbing to Hazet radiators is just lovely realistic.
-
Stunning detail and painting on the radiators and plumbing!
RAGIII
-
Your my hero! Wow you do amazing work Gary.
That's the level I would like to reach in my skill level, just stunning work, absolutely incredible.
-
Like everyone else Gary, I have to applaud your metalwork.
-
Stunning work, Gary -
Your subtle chipping effects look very realistic.
Regards
Dave
-
Very realistic work, Gary. This will certainly be a jewel in your showcase. Did you use chipping fluid for the chipping effect? It looks very authentic.
-
Top notch Gary !
Alexis
-
Thanks as always to everyone for the kind comments!
Very realistic work, Gary. This will certainly be a jewel in your showcase. Did you use chipping fluid for the chipping effect? It looks very authentic.
And thank you Ken, I've used hair spray before on some projects, but the chipping effects can be hard to control. For this one I used a 000 size brush and dabbed on some random black-grey Vallejo paint. The trick was to err on the side of "not too much" and keep the pattern subtle. Just enough to make it look used and scratched. It takes a few sessions, perhaps painting over the bits that don't look right.
Cheers,
Gary
-
This is looking better that great Gary!
The detailing and the weathering look very realistic.
Willem
-
All the little details looks great, Gary!
I have this kit in my stash, so I am enjoying watching your build and taking notes!
You mentioned several pages ago that you might not attempt the CDL decals again. Can you elaborate on that? I assume you mean that the final appearance, combined with the time/effort to apply the decals (and maybe cost?) doesn't add up to enough of a difference as compared to painting techniques. Or something like that.
I think the CDL decals look great mind you, and I have some Aviattic CDL linen decal sheets in my stash. Have not used them as of yet however.
-
You mentioned several pages ago that you might not attempt the CDL decals again. Can you elaborate on that? I assume you mean that the final appearance, combined with the time/effort to apply the decals (and maybe cost?) doesn't add up to enough of a difference as compared to painting techniques. Or something like that.
I think the CDL decals look great mind you, and I have some Aviattic CDL linen decal sheets in my stash. Have not used them as of yet however.
Thanks, and your question is a good one. If the decals are applied properly they work really well. I'm more concerned with my skills and patience to apply them properly, as I tend to rush things a bit. Possibly not having a very glossy surface is my problem in some cases...but if I see even a hint of silvering I think the look is ruined. I'm sure contest judges walk up to a decent looking model thinking "nice linen effect" but upon closer examination then wince at the small areas of silvering and "oh dear..." I know I do.
I bought enough of the decals to do part of my Felixstowe, and still might use them actually.
The photo below is an example - not terrible, and I can disguise it with oily weathering stains. Visible at the front end of the vertical stabilizer. Part of the frustration of trying something new, I guess. I see a lot of modellers using these decals with great success, so I should really try harder ;)
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/pnv0EXN.jpg)
-
With the tricky job of attaching the top wings accomplished, I'm on to the next bit - adding the lines of rigging. Quite a job, I'm finding; it's like I'm rigging an aircraft model for the first time. A very painstaking process, but the build is seeing light at the end of the tunnel (a friend used to say "yeah, it's just a welder...welding on a new section of tunnel").
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/WjMsqTD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LNKeBPD.jpg)
-
Go toward the light Gary - what you've accomplished so far is so beautiful I can't wait to see the end!
-
The Albatros is continuing to be a Stunner! Beautiful work all around!!
RAGIII
-
Continuing to be excellent work, Gary. Your photography brings out the best in it.
-
Hey Gary, backing up a few posts - is that really silvering? I always consider that the clear film around a decal showing. Could it be decal glue? Did you use setting or solvent solution? Any chance it wipes off? It's recommended to use warm water only on those decals. I'm not doubting you I'm just trying to gather as much info as possible. I have a fair amount of these decals in the stash and just want to get it right when I use them.
Steve
-
Hey Gary, backing up a few posts - is that really silvering? I always consider that the clear film around a decal showing. Could it be decal glue? Did you use setting or solvent solution? Any chance it wipes off? It's recommended to use warm water only on those decals. I'm not doubting you I'm just trying to gather as much info as possible. I have a fair amount of these decals in the stash and just want to get it right when I use them.
Steve
Thanks for asking Steve - I did follow Richard's instructions for application and feel that in some areas my finish just wasn't glossy enough to prevent the silvering. My photo of the tail fin wasn't very good, but it's definitely silvering....barely visible, but it's there. The only time I've used any setting solution on these is near the edges after application (MicroSol) and always just use warm water to apply them. I've also used Tamiya gloss acrylic X-22, brushed along the edges, to seal them.
I've used Aviattic lozenge decals succesfully on 6 WnW builds in the past, and any slight silvering really doesn't show up as much as it does with the CDL (in my opinion). I also know that airbrushing a gloss finish onto the surface can leave a bit of a "Matt" texture, which probably contributed to my issues on the underside decals. To summarize - these CDL decals will work very well over a very glossy finish, and any shadow detail painted underneath has to be subtle, as they are very transparent.
I'm sure you'll enjoy applying your stash of Aviattic CDL decals armed with a bit of shared experience from various modellers here :)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thank you Gary. Your build is still spectacular. I will make note of your findings.
Steve
-
Great job, Gary.
Regarding matt spots - sometimes it could be solved with spraying just clear thinner over it. And when decal silvers anyway, I use sharp razor to cut decal through and use decal solution. It helps sometimes.
-
Beautiful work, Gary. I know how you feel about silvering. I've spent heaps of time making tiny incisions into the tiniest of air bubbles, then flooding them with decal softener.
-
Hi Gary,
Yes, silvering under even 'Aviattic' decal can be a problem and I've experienced this as well.
The white backed decals are not a problem, but I've found application of any of the clear backed decals can cause this silvering.
As you say, an suitably coloured base coat, sanded/polished if necessary then gloss clear coated is necessary.
The surface has to be a smooth and as artifact free as possible.
Also I add PVA adhesive (white glue) to the decal water and stir it until it dissolves into the water.
Richard states this in his decal instruction sheets.
It does help in bonding the decal to the model surface.
Lastly you mentioned using 'Tamiya' X22 Gloss to seal decal edges.
I assume, like me, you've found most standard decal solutions are not very effective on 'Aviattic' decals.
Instead and when necessary, I use 'Tamiya' X20A acrylic thinners, which applied sparingly, will soften and seal the decal into shape.
This is also handy for conforming decal over small, raised detail, such as wing strut attachments, wing foot boards and pre-moulded panels etc.
I pierce through the decal first to release any trapped air or water, then cotton bud to press down the decal and only then apply the thinners.
Beware of using too though, as the decal can 'melt'.
Mike
-
After seeing this , I'm packing in the work bench . !
Wow , this is turning out to be your best one yet , beautiful work !
Alexis
-
Hi Gary,
Yes, silvering under even 'Aviattic' decal can be a problem and I've experienced this as well.
The white backed decals are not a problem, but I've found application of any of the clear backed decals can cause this silvering.
As you say, an suitably coloured base coat, sanded/polished if necessary then gloss clear coated is necessary.
The surface has to be a smooth and as artifact free as possible.
Also I add PVA adhesive (white glue) to the decal water and stir it until it dissolves into the water.
Richard states this in his decal instruction sheets.
It does help in bonding the decal to the model surface.
Lastly you mentioned using 'Tamiya' X22 Gloss to seal decal edges.
I assume, like me, you've found most standard decal solutions are not very effective on 'Aviattic' decals.
Instead and when necessary, I use 'Tamiya' X20A acrylic thinners, which applied sparingly, will soften and seal the decal into shape.
This is also handy for conforming decal over small, raised detail, such as wing strut attachments, wing foot boards and pre-moulded panels etc.
I pierce through the decal first to release any trapped air or water, then cotton bud to press down the decal and only then apply the thinners.
Beware of using too though, as the decal can 'melt'.
Mike
Thanks for the helpful tip, Mike - I'll certainly try the X-20A acrylic thinner idea in future projects. I've seen Richard refer to using the white PVA glue to help with subborn edges, but not to dissolve it as an adhesive helper in the decal water - so another good thing to know. Usually making a few sharp pokes with a blade and adding some setting solution has solved most silvering problems...but not on this project strangely enough.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thanks to all for their nice comments. Although I refrain from photos taken with an iPhone on the workbench, I could think of no other way to convey how I'm using some masking tape and copper clips (with my "helping hands" tool) to make the rigging. The tension is pulled on the EZ-Line, and crazy glue added to the points of contact...then it stays in suspended animation for as long as that "instant" (yeah, sure) crazy glue takes to set. I usually give it 20 minutes minimum. Then trim...and on to the next one. At this rate I'll be finished in August.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/8cVpMf2.jpg)
-
That is a complex solution but the results of your rigging speak for themselves!
RAGIII
-
This is time-consuming indeed, but the result looks great!
Very clever use of the 3rd hand to keep the rigging line taut Gary.
Willem
-
thank you for sharing your rigging technique. I will have to give that a go, as often my lines don;t seem to stick.
-
I can’t see any flaws on your Albatros… I mean, really, not just being friendly… :)
Another wonderful build!
Andreas
-
That's very clever Gary, I like it! I'm fortunate that my very cheap superglue sets in a very "super" manner so I just need to hold it for a minute or so, but then again I've never had turnbuckles etc involved.
-
Your results look great. But for rigging I will use the eyelet-tube-monofilament method whenever it is possible.
-
Museum quality, simply astoundingly beautiful!
A true masterpiece.
Peter
-
Your results look great. But for rigging I will use the eyelet-tube-monofilament method whenever it is possible.
Thanks Prze, I've used "invisible thread" before, which is like monofilament. But never mastered the technique, so I take the "E-Z" way out ;). I'd admire modellers who can use monofilament, and probably need to get some experience with it before starting my Felixstowe :o I also am happy the way the stretchy thread moves with the twists and turns of straightening the wings and flying surfaces and doesn't sag...in need of tension after-the-fact.
I've noticed that the wings on this model move quite a bit when turning it upside down during these last steps of construction, but know that my rigging lines will not sag.
Cheers,
Gary
-
What size of E-Z line are you using ?
So far , just keeps getting better and better .
Alexis
-
What size of E-Z line are you using ?
So far , just keeps getting better and better .
Alexis
Thanks for that, Alexis - I always appreciate your kind words! Here's the stuff I use...
(https://i.imgur.com/DezZaiV.jpg)
Cheers,
Gary
-
After 7 months of this project on the bench, I'm sticking a fork in it and calling it done. It was quite a learning curve for me with using Aviattic CDL decals and Gaspatch metal turnbuckles for the first time, but I'm wiser for it and ready for my next WW1 aircraft project.
I'd like to thank all those that took the time to comment and ask questions and also offer suggestions to me throughout the build - I really appreciate each and every post (and I'm terrible at always properly acknowledging them! :-[).
I'll try and post a few pics in the Completed section soon :)
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/GqzQipD.jpg)
-
BRAVO Gary,
looks (alive) real.
:) :) :)
Spyros
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFbRyH57/hats-off.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
A Truly Stunning Build Gary! Everything in this build is brilliantly executed!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Rick, Rookie and Spyros
-
Lovely work Gary, I'm eager to see the gallery!
-
Nice one, Gary!
-
What a lovely Albatros! It’s looking fantastic!
Andreas