1:32 WNW Fokker E.III (or perhaps E.II)

[Fokker boy]

Second half (starboard), looks better, at least to me anyway.

[Fokker boy]

Interior parts get the wood treatment, following the WNW recommendations.

[uncletony]

Second half (starboard), looks better, at least to me anyway.

Definitely.

[mike in calif]

+1

[Whiteknuckles]

Nice progress FB and some fine swirling

Andrew

[Modelnut]

I think your metalwork looks fine. If your worried about blending in, a coat of clear will subtlely pull the 2 shades of silver together. That is, if you haven't done that already.

I'm jealous! I'll be a while before I get to order mine!

[mgunns]

I likek the swirling.  Looks good and offers good practice.  Once buttoned up it will be impressive.  Looking forward to more of your work on this kit.  I am holding off on this one, but not sure for how long.

Best

Mark

[Fokker boy]

Thanks folks. One area where I intend to deviate from the instructions is regarding the exterior fabric color. WNW calls for the specific scheme I'm building to be Tamiya XF-60, but I'll be using XF-55 instead.

http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-60&Submit=

http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-55&Submit=

[Fokker boy]

P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.

[Fokker boy]

Prop has some minor sink "issues", so I've puttied those areas with Acryl-Blue.

[Fokker boy]

Side panels mostly cleaned up. These are very delicate.

[Fokker boy]

Pit area receives some more paint. Should look lots better after a wash. (I still have to swirl the front pan as well.)

[Ronkootje]

P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.

When you anaal brass to make it soft you have to let it cool down naturally, whel you cool it down in cold water you make it harder unles this is what you want but it makes bending it difficult

Ron

[Fokker boy]

P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.

When you anaal brass to make it soft you have to let it cool down naturally, whel you cool it down in cold water you make it harder unles this is what you want but it makes bending it difficult

Ron

Odd, by quenching (after getting red hot), all the brass P.E. parts are now nice and soft, very easy to bend and manipulate, so I'm a happy guy. I think the difference may be in how much you heat it before quenching. I won't be using a lot of the P.E. anyway, the panel on the cowl, perhaps the belts, and little else as far as I can see, as I intend to replace the machine gun front portion with a Master product.

[kornbeef]

A point to note... The Master barrel jacket is for the later type of Maxim, the perforations etc are different as is the breech in fact.

It's a different beast to the Maxims on albies, later Fokkers etc.


K