forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Fokker boy on October 12, 2012, 03:56:21 AM
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My first concession in a very long while to buying "just released" kits, and it was well worth waiting for, just gorgeous!
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Books/101112.jpg)
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Looking forward to the build log - should be straightforward?
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Looking forward to the build log - should be straightforward?
Looks like it. Quite a few parts for such a basically simple airplane. I'll also be doing my very first ever review of the kit for another site, that should be fun.
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I have built an EIII in 1:72 (Revell) and 1:48 (Eduard) so I have to complete the set in 1:32, don't I?
Looking forward to your kit review :)
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I have built an EIII in 1:72 (Revell) and 1:48 (Eduard) so I have to complete the set in 1:32, don't I?
Looking forward to your kit review :)
Absolutely.
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Kit has some nice features; a great looking flare pistol.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101312012.jpg)
Teddy bear. (I may or may not use it, not real sure yet.)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101312013.jpg)
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Wood areas of pit base coated with acrylic.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101312.jpg)
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My first lame attempt at the machined swirls. I may redo this, but then again, maybe not, I'll have to think on it.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101312009.jpg)
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NO! leave the machine swirls, and go forward. Do the other side, and firewall. You should be able to do the cowl to good effect after that bit of practice.
just sayin'....
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Great start :) Swirls looking great, very effective.
Notice the copyright 2010 embossed on the sprue! Shows how long these kits are in development....
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A Great start, I can't wait for mine to turn up. :P
I agree on the swirling, once assembled you will hardly be able to se that area, learn from what you've done and move on in the construction.
Keith
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I'd leave them alone, they look great and, as Keith infers, the outside version will be even better given what you've learned on these. Great work!
Cheers,
Lance :)
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I think the swirls look fine esp. as they will hardly show. As with the others, I say move on.
As you move along, I think you might want to try to balance the coverage between the foreground and background, or in art-speak, "negative and positive space." I think the illusion depends to certain degree on the viewer not being able to detect the difference. Having the drawn swirls conform a little more to the nooks and crannies of their neighbors will help, if you follow what I mean.
Great watching this new kit build! I'm jealous!
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As others have said, leave 'em be and learn from it. If you keep trying to get everything just so, you may never finish and just get frustrated. Great looking effort so far.
Warren
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Thanks very much fellas. This morning I tend to agree, some of what I did, swirl wise, looks OK to me, so I'll use more of that particular method from now on, perhaps thin the paint as well too, as this was done straight out of the bottle. I think what'll happen on the outside will be to Scotch-Brite it a bit, gently blending the two colors together. I think that'll be OK.
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Second half (starboard), looks better, at least to me anyway.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101412003.jpg)
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Interior parts get the wood treatment, following the WNW recommendations.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101312014.jpg)
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Second half (starboard), looks better, at least to me anyway.
Definitely.
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+1
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Nice progress FB and some fine swirling ;)
Andrew
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I think your metalwork looks fine. If your worried about blending in, a coat of clear will subtlely pull the 2 shades of silver together. That is, if you haven't done that already.
I'm jealous! I'll be a while before I get to order mine!
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I likek the swirling. Looks good and offers good practice. Once buttoned up it will be impressive. Looking forward to more of your work on this kit. I am holding off on this one, but not sure for how long.
Best
Mark
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Thanks folks. One area where I intend to deviate from the instructions is regarding the exterior fabric color. WNW calls for the specific scheme I'm building to be Tamiya XF-60, but I'll be using XF-55 instead.
http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-60&Submit= (http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-60&Submit=)
http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-55&Submit= (http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=xf-55&Submit=)
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P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101612007.jpg)
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Prop has some minor sink "issues", so I've puttied those areas with Acryl-Blue.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101612003.jpg)
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Side panels mostly cleaned up. These are very delicate.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101612002.jpg)
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Pit area receives some more paint. Should look lots better after a wash. (I still have to swirl the front pan as well.)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/101612009.jpg)
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P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.
When you anaal brass to make it soft you have to let it cool down naturally, whel you cool it down in cold water you make it harder unles this is what you want but it makes bending it difficult
Ron
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P.E. set roasted with propane torch to anneal it, then quenched in cool water.
When you anaal brass to make it soft you have to let it cool down naturally, whel you cool it down in cold water you make it harder unles this is what you want but it makes bending it difficult
Ron
Odd, by quenching (after getting red hot), all the brass P.E. parts are now nice and soft, very easy to bend and manipulate, so I'm a happy guy. I think the difference may be in how much you heat it before quenching. I won't be using a lot of the P.E. anyway, the panel on the cowl, perhaps the belts, and little else as far as I can see, as I intend to replace the machine gun front portion with a Master product.
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A point to note... The Master barrel jacket is for the later type of Maxim, the perforations etc are different as is the breech in fact.
It's a different beast to the Maxims on albies, later Fokkers etc.
K
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Kevin,
Somehow I'd managed to miss this thread until now. Outstanding work to date my old friend. I love your machine work to the metal panels.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks fellas, I appreciate the input.
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Replicating the swirl pattern looks fraught with difficulty to me, but you take to it like a duck to water. Great job!
Cheers,
Chris
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Wheels given a base coat of tire gray.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/102712016.jpg)
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Wings given a base coat of Tamiya Buff. I'll highlight the ribs later, and add some dirt and stains.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/102712008.jpg)
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Interior fabric areas also receive Tamiya Buff.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/102712005.jpg)
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Seat and cushion base coated, more or less following WNW recommendations.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/102712018.jpg)
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Went to (finally), do some more painting on this today, painting the tires first with a lighter gray (may still be too dark, but I can live with it), only to discover that my CO2 tank is virtually empty. Very frustrating, but I’ll run out and get a refill tomorrow. I’ve been involved in other stuff the last couple of weeks, and valve may not have been closed tightly enough, allowing all the air (600psi), to leak out.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111312001.jpg)
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Nice work. Im just catching up on this thread. Let me get this straight (and be lazy by not looking it up myself) - the Master jackets are for later Fokkers and Alby's etc NOT the EIII's.
Steve
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Coming along very nicely Kevin, it's all looking really good. I didn't know about the machine gun difference either, I will have to look into it. Sorry to hear about your gas loss, a real bummer when things like that happen.
Des.
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Nice work. Im just catching up on this thread. Let me get this straight (and be lazy by not looking it up myself) - the Master jackets are for later Fokkers and Alby's etc NOT the EIII's.
Steve
Yes thats right, the EIII uses a IMG08 Maxim and the later A/C use LMG08/15 Maxim's. I remember something being said by Richard Alexander when people were mistakenly fitting after market jackets to the Hansa Brandenberg, a point I remembered as the Rumpler uses the IMG08 too. The easiest way to identify which is the fact the top pf the main body on the IMG08 is flat, on the LMG08/15 its stepped down behind the breech assembly.
Keith
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Is there any particular reason why the PE jackets in the kit need replacing? Or are the Master guns just better or more detailed overall?
I'm waiting for my E.III to arrive, and I'm a total WWI newbie, so I'm curious.
Peter
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Just getting back in guys. You are doimg a great job on your EIII, Kev. I am working on mine as well.
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Nice work. Im just catching up on this thread. Let me get this straight (and be lazy by not looking it up myself) - the Master jackets are for later Fokkers and Alby's etc NOT the EIII's.
Steve
That's what Korn says, and he's probably right, though I'm not real certain it'll bother me for it to be incorrect.
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Coming along very nicely Kevin, it's all looking really good. I didn't know about the machine gun difference either, I will have to look into it. Sorry to hear about your gas loss, a real bummer when things like that happen.
Des.
Yep, 600psi lost. My new tank (just picked up today), is currently reading 700psi, so I'm good to go.
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Is there any particular reason why the PE jackets in the kit need replacing? Or are the Master guns just better or more detailed overall?
I'm waiting for my E.III to arrive, and I'm a total WWI newbie, so I'm curious.
Peter
I suspect the kit provided PE jackets and gun body are correct, but I intended to use (and still may), the Master barrels and those are apparently not correct for the E.II/E.III. (The Master barrels generally are simply outstanding additions to dress up a model.)
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Now that I can paint again, I gave the wings (top this time), a base coat of Tamiya Buff, (looks much better than the photo shows).
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111412010.jpg)
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I went ahead and base coated the prop with acrylic too.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111412006.jpg)
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Wheels now get some grunge; should look lots better after some pastels and a wash.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111412005.jpg)
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Hello FB:
Your model is coming along nicely. The swirls look good and looking forward to more.
Best
Mark
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Hello FB:
Your model is coming along nicely. The swirls look good and looking forward to more.
Best
Mark
Thanks a bunch. On some early E's, I've noticed that the ammo box is also swirled, but not always. Is there some sort of rule as to when this was done, and when it was not?
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I'm playing with some different ideas for adding a small amount of grunge to exterior, and I think this shows some promise, (once refined a bit).
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111512010.jpg)
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I added the oil indicator gizmo, and did some minor dirtying up, but I'm not too pleased with the appearance, so I may redo.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111512001.jpg)
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Looks like quenching brass in cold water had no ill effect; MG jacket was easily rolled into a nice tube.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111512014.jpg)
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Prop gets first coat of oil for a nice pecan color.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111512011.jpg)
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Owing to an oversight on my part, front metal area of floor had not been painted; I have now corrected this. Looks OK I think, so I'll leave it alone.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111512008.jpg)
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Some good progress there FB, nice work. However, forgive my ignorance, what did you mean by grunging up the exterior as the pic is of the interior?
Andrew
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I could be wrong but, I think He was trying out a new technique to show the oil
staining and using the already painted interior as a palette.
Jim
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I could be wrong but, I think He was trying out a new technique to show the oil
staining and using the already painted interior as a palette.
Jim
Right. Not anything new really, just new to me. To see how the thinner and paint colors might look/react to the acrylic, I used the painted interior to experiment on. With a little more refinement, I think this'll work out OK on the exterior areas I want to grunge up.
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Grunge away FB, I much enjoy and definitely prefer a weathered finish and I have lots to learn, I'll be watching closely.
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Kevin,
She's looking great my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks fellas. I finally got off it, and cleaned up/painted the side frames tonight.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612029.jpg)
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Seat assembly progress. Man is this thing delicate.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612025.jpg)
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I really should pay more attention; this machine (Crailsheim), and all the other schemes in this kit for that matter, don't have the compass in starboard wing. OOPS!
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612009.jpg)
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I went ahead and repainted the front of ammo box. I like it a lot better now. A little touch-up of the wood areas, and it'll be ready for glossing.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612030.jpg)
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Work continues in the pit area, adding the spidery gizmo at rudder bar area, as well as control cables (rudder cables still to be added), from thin rod with globs of CA to fake the turnbuckles.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612003.jpg)
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She's coming along nicely.
I know how it is when not happy with something, if you don't redo it or correct it the blighter just nags at you or pokes its tongue out at you every time you look at the build.
Things like the compass and the lower rudder bar mounting cast as one with the floor surprise me with WNW remembering the *options* like alternative engine or fuselage halves in their earlier kits. I would have thought making the compass housing, lower rudder mounting as seperate parts would have been a better option for all. Someone not so nimble fingered could easily destroy the ribcane or metal plate detail easily. Also why's the pulsator Part A35 not on the clear sprue like the DH2 one is.
Anyway thats a minor gripe really but something for WNW to consider.
Sorry for hijacking... ;)
Keith
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Got it on the 'grunge' - Thanks Jim, FB.
The Ammo box does look better.
Andrew
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Great progress. Good catch on the compass at this point is better than later. Nice wear and tear on the ammo box etc
Steve
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Thanks fellas. I'm not sure how realistic any of this is, but I am sure a lot of it won't be easily visible when model is done.
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Coming along beautifully, Kevin!
Cheers,
Bud
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Though very faint, the ribs on this kit are covered with tiny bumps, nail heads? Does anyone know for sure what this is about?
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612011.jpg)
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Though very faint, the ribs on this kit are covered with tiny bumps, nail heads? Does anyone know for sure what this is about?
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/111612011.jpg)
yes, apparently the ribs wern't taped like later aircraft but had lengths of cane nailed over the ribs instead.
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OK, great. Thanks for the answer, I appreciate it. They're so tiny, I didn't even see them for a while. Magnificent tooling job.
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Looking great so far. The swirling is looking top notch! Regarding grunging, have you ever heard of Uschi Van Der Rosten? He does some brilliant weathering DECALS... The effect is very convincing.
http://www.uschivdr.com/products/iwd-series-instant-weathering/
I think it'll work great on the light colour. I'm sure I've seen a pup with them used, can't find it at the moment....
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Very cool idea, thanks for the link. I think I'll just stick to painting this one though.
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I received these in the mail today, and they are all most impressive.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Books/112012002.jpg)
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Great references. I dont have the Fokker pair yet but Im guessing they're as good as the Alby's
Steve
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Great references. I dont have the Fokker pair yet but Im guessing they're as good as the Alby's
Steve
Oh yes, very cool books.
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After debating this for a while, I've decided now that I am not going to paint the wing rib caps a slightly different (wood), color.
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OK, finally ran out and got some more Tamiya Buff, and finished spraying wings, leaving a faint shadow around rib areas. Perhaps not technically correct, but I'm OK with it.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112412006.jpg)
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Mud on tires repainted a nicer color than what I had before. Should look OK after some washes.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112412009.jpg)
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Side panels get dressed up a bit, and bracing cables added from thin nylon thread; turnbuckles from globs of CA. CDL also has some very faint staining added.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112412019.jpg)
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Looks like this is shaping up for the final run!!
Steve
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Looks like this is shaping up for the final run!!
Steve
I certainly hope so. I set aside three other projects to work on this thing, and I'd like to get back to them. :)
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Looks like this is shaping up for the final run!!
Steve
I certainly hope so. I set aside three other projects to work on this thing, and I'd like to get back to them. :)
Story of my life :-[
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Do we really set them aside or just kinda cycle things round and around?..
Steve
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Do we really set them aside or just kinda cycle things round and around?..
Steve
I try to get back to them as and when I can.
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Real progress this evening; pit now firmly enclosed inside fuselage. As has become my standard practice, one half of fuselage has been slightly beveled outwards at mating edges to create a small trench that I’ll fill with CA. (I'll add belts later.)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112612005.jpg)
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I made three bad mistakes while building pit. Seat, once assembled as instructions indicate, won’t clear control cables, as cables run between seat and seat frame. I chopped out the horizontal supports on my seat to clear, since I had added cables first.
Rear plywood bulkhead needs to be more or less completely vertical, and engages a notch in floor if done properly. I glued bottom of tanks behind bulkhead to shelf behind floor, kicking out the bottom of the bulkhead forward ever so slightly. This does not help at all with the other fit issues I had.
In my zeal to close up fuselage halves, I neglected to add oil tank/instrumentation assembly, which is captured between two tabs on fuselage side frames. After grinding tabs down some, I was able to spring fuselage open enough to capture the oil tank assembly.
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Wing roots get some dirt/grime, then gloss coat. I think it looks OK, but I may still tweak it some.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112612008.jpg)
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Thanks for the warnings and the wings look like they're shaping up.
Steve
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I wish I had a tenner for every time I'd misse something out glad you managed to get the panel in without resorting to violence.
I hope the issue with the back panel doesnt affect the wing locations, I take it you checked?
On the dirtying up, less can be more, she is looking good. Because of the nature of the rotary enginethrowing its mess the left wing side will always be dirtier.
Nice progress though indeed.
Keith
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I did not check wing fit, but I'll make it work out, one way or another! As to the nasty stains, you're probably right, but I'm not real sure I'll change it. The Eindecker compendiums show some ungodly nasty staining on inboard starboard wings too.
The WNW kits (so I've read), are a very precise fit, and the E.II is certainly no exception,... things like parts being ever so out of alignment, globs of CA that extend outside the interior cage, can all make for an almost press fit that can be a challenge to overcome, but I believe I'm "over the hump" now.
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I made three bad mistakes while building pit. Seat, once assembled as instructions indicate, won’t clear control cables, as cables run between seat and seat frame. I chopped out the horizontal supports on my seat to clear, since I had added cables first.
Rear plywood bulkhead needs to be more or less completely vertical, and engages a notch in floor if done properly. I glued bottom of tanks behind bulkhead to shelf behind floor, kicking out the bottom of the bulkhead forward ever so slightly. This does not help at all with the other fit issues I had.
In my zeal to close up fuselage halves, I neglected to add oil tank/instrumentation assembly, which is captured between two tabs on fuselage side frames. After grinding tabs down some, I was able to spring fuselage open enough to capture the oil tank assembly.
Hello RB: Okay, so on the seat issue, what would you recommend the modeler do? Install the seat, then add the cables? Route the cables with the seat in mind? Sounds like a major issue if not done correctly.
I am enjoying your build and your comments. Very helpful and straightforward. I am looking forward to more. I too often get ahead of myself only to pay the consequences later.
Thanks
Mark
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To answer your question Mark, I should have glued the two seat supports (D11), to the floor, added cables, then glued seat assembly (A21 & A29), to those seat supports (D11). As it was, I had to just clip out the horizontal members of the seat supports (D11), to allow complete seat assembly to pass over them. As long as we're on the subject, I'd also recommend drilling the holes all the way through the bulkhead (A18), to allow the rear ends of rudder control cables some free play. When I squished the fuselage halves together, it buckled the interior assembly, bending the cables out of true, and it's too late now to fix it, (the openings weren't completely through the bulkhead on my example, and I was too thick headed to correct it when I had the chance).
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OK, sort of a progressive update here; "the trench" (made by me), filled with CA.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712003.jpg)
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After CA was smoothed out, a dab of Acryl Blue to fill minor voids.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712005.jpg)
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After wet sanding the Acryl Blue.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712019.jpg)
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The stitching on bottom needed some "persuasion" to fit correctly; my fault,... again.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712004.jpg)
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Prop given second coat of oil paint. Some of the photos in the Compendiums show the prop as being very dark.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712020A.jpg)
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Wings get their decals. (It always freaks me out when the curdle up like that!)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/112712009.jpg)
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That looks llike good progress and any mistake you can fix is just a different way of doing something...read that there somewhere... ;)
Steve
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looking great...keep it up... :D
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hi there!
have you ever thought of making a mask and paint the insigna?
I was thinking of it as I fear that with such big a decal I am quite sure to siver it...
ciao
Edo
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hi there!
have you ever thought of making a mask and paint the insigna?
I was thinking of it as I fear that with such big a decal I am quite sure to siver it...
ciao
Edo
Not really. The Cartograf decals are of exceptional quality, and should smooth out without problems.
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Excellent work, FB, I like the way you've done the weathering and the patterning on the cowls. Thanks for the tip on the seat and cables, too- I've filed that for future reference.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Thanks for the input fellas.
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Some progress this evening; cowl pieces added, and airframe painting begun. I'm still able to adjust the weathering a lot, so don't be too concerned with how it looks right now, This is just to show what I (generally), have in mind.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/113012003.jpg)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/113012014.jpg)
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Kevin,
She's looking simply beautiful my old friend. As always outstanding project and an excellent reference thread for anyony building this kit. Keep up the great works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Kevin,
She's looking simply beautiful my old friend. As always outstanding project and an excellent reference thread for anyony building this kit. Keep up the great works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Thanks Greg. I'm having a pretty good time with it, but I'm pushing too fast I'm afraid, (anxious to be ready for my D.VII when it arrives).
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Little PE blast shield added, interior edges of cowl thinned out with my Dremel.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120112005.jpg)
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Rudder gets coated white. Later I'll gloss coat and decal, after dirtying up a bit.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120112006.jpg)
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Elevators molded as one piece, but I magically turned it into two! Some CA fixed it right up though.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120112013.jpg)
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I've only added three plug wires to engine, as that's all that will be visible from beneath.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120112002.jpg)
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Engine base coated and details painted. A wash will make lots of difference I think.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120112010.jpg)
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Nice work on the engine etc. you arent going to let the engine spin? Looking forward to all this being drawn together.
Steve
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Kevin,
Excellent details on her engine my old friend. Keep up the outstanding progress.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks again Greg. Bummer, I fixed up the MG, painted it, then noticed in photos that the portion with the gate sight has moved. Nothing a drop of CA won't fix up though.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120212002.jpg)
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Rudder gets some pastels to accent framework. Once I dust on some more white paint, it'll look much better, (I hope).
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120212006.jpg)
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Wing bottoms get their decals. These seemed to go on much better than top ones.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120212012.jpg)
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Tonight, the engine got its first wash. I'll clear coat, then add a burnt castor oil wash.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120812014.jpg)
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OK, some good, and some not so good.
Good, cowling area, starboard side, painted and "swirled".
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120812011.jpg)
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Not so good, port side revealed that I failed to get cheek piece completely glued down; don't know if this is fixable or not.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120812009.jpg)
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Hi there !
Your swirls do look amazing!
How did you do that?
As far as i'm concerned, i'm thinking of doing without them,i fear to ruin the model as all my attempts turned out far too ugly to show....
Very well done!
Ciao
Edo
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Brilliant work - like the rib shading on the rudder and, yes, agreed totally with Edo - your cowling paint work looks very realistic.
Regards
Dave
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Your swirl painting looks awesome!! For the cheek repair you may want to use one knife blade to gently pry the part a little further open to get another knife blade with some ca glue on it to reach the back or inside edge of the cheek. That way there wont be any glue skwooshing out.
Steve
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Yes indeed, awesome looking swirling!
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks very much fellas, I certainly appreciate it. As to the question regarding the swirling, it's just base coated with MM stainless steel, then thinned silver spread around with a small brush. Looks OK I think, but I'm hoping my E.IV will look lots better.
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This certainly seems to be taking me forever to finish. Today (so far), I've painted leather areas around pit, as well as ammo and filler caps, stained engine, painted cowl (I had forgotten to do that earlier), and test fitted starboard wing.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120912003.jpg)
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Elevators magically transformed back into two pieces, and that's the way they're going to stay until they're attached to model. Very difficult to see (if not impossible), but skeletal framework was highlighted with dark gray pastels, then over sprayed with buff; it's actually very subtle.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120912010.jpg)
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Rudder gets the same treatment, but at least it shows up better in photos.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120912009.jpg)
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Yet another stupid move on my part. I was wondering what the gaping hole in aft part of fuselage was for;... it's for part #A34, the piece that has the leather reinforcements for the control cables. This should have been added before I ever began painting fuselage. Also, while handling model to paint those patches, I didn't notice that I had picked up some lacquer thinner on my hand; this left nice fingerprints imbedded in fuselage sides, so I sanded, repainted, and weathered those areas,... again!
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/120912014.jpg)
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Looks mighty fine FB - must be all the swearing and hair pulling ;) ;) ;D
Andrew
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Excellent work, FB. The rudder came out nicely, as did the engine.
What was the problem with the elevators? Are they just fragile or is it the way they have to be assembled?
Dal.
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Nothing like laquer thinner to clean the slate. The good news is it didnt eat the plastic. She looks good and no sign of the crisis!!
Steve
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Looks mighty fine FB - must be all the swearing and hair pulling ;) ;) ;D
Andrew
It's very frustrating to keep making all these mistakes, that's for sure. The kit is fine;... Kevin, not so sure about him.
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Excellent work, FB. The rudder came out nicely, as did the engine.
What was the problem with the elevators? Are they just fragile or is it the way they have to be assembled?
Dal.
The elevators are molded as one piece, and the connection between right and left sides is very delicate. In retrospect, I probably should have painted, added decals and weathered them "on-sprue", then removed and added at the appropriate time. With the extraordinarily delicate nature of the landing gear and trapeze assembly above wing, it's entirely possible I'll never be able to finish this without screwing something up really bad, but I'll keep plugging along anyway.
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Nothing like laquer thinner to clean the slate. The good news is it didnt eat the plastic. She looks good and no sign of the crisis!!
Steve
That's the least of my worries, as far as this kit is concerned. My biggest problem (and one that I've had for years), is my coffeine induced "Nervous Nellie" hands! That, combined with the fact that I don't consult the directions as frequently as I should, the hurried state at which I'm trying to slam this together (so I can begin my Jasta 21 D.VII), as well as the very delicate nature of some of the parts, adds up to a recipe for disaster.
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Well, this went well at least,... decal application time! One minor complaint though; WNW gives no extra decal material to allow for minor mismatches in fuselage stripes. By applying side decal first, top automatically lines up pretty well, but not quite perfectly. I did the best I could, then quit while I was ahead.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121012002.jpg)
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Looks sharp with the markings on.
Steve
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Looks sharp with the markings on.
Steve
Thanks. With any luck, it'll come out OK.
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I was going to paint the tail strut assembly, when I realized I should do the front assembly at the same time, so this has been constructed, and is temporarily held in position while glue dries, by the model itself.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121012003.jpg)
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Kevin,
As always my old friend Outstanding work. Thanks for all the great tips and an excellent thread. Looking forward to seeing what magic been worked in the next update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks Greg. I hope to wrap it up in the next week or so.
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My precious! (I've been waiting for a state of the art kit of this machine for quite some time now, so a big thanks goes out to WNW!) Now I can finally do my all time favorite Jasta 21 machine.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/D%20VII/121312.jpg)
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Kevin,
It's easy to see that you'll soon have another awesome Fokker build thread coming up.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Merry Christmas to You and Yours
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Thanks Greg, and a big Happy B-Day to you my friend.
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From The Agony and the Ecstasy; "when will you make and end"? I've been wondering this myself for a while now. :) Up on her gear, with gear painted Fokker green as per WNW; wheel have received some dull coat.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512004.jpg)
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"Other" side of elevators gets the pastel treatment.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512006.jpg)
And after painting. Once finished, I'll pick the side I like best, and call that "up".
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512009.jpg)
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This was frustrating. After accidentally bending the heck out of MG jacket, I just went ahead and ripped it off.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512012.jpg)
Repaired. (Muzzle is a tad long, but easier to manipulate, so I'll trim after CA cures.)
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512014.jpg)
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Rudder (port side this time), gets decals.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512020.jpg)
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My first (but probably not my last), attempt at creating a leather flying cap. I intend to do gloves, overalls, leather jacket, and goggles too.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/121512015.jpg)
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Kevin,
Excellent update my old friend. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your handmade details like your flying cap. That's something completely out of my skillset at the moment but something I'd love to try later. Best of luck and I'm hoping to see you cap all painted up later.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Merry Christmas to You and Yours
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Thanks Greg, and a big Happy B-Day to you my friend.
Kevin,
Missed this earlier my old friend. Thank you very much I appreciate the thought.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Nice work. For gloves I use the hands off a figure and flesh err glove them out.
Steve
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Nice work. For gloves I use the hands off a figure and flesh err glove them out.
Steve
Not a bad idea at all; thanks.
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To answer your question Mark, I should have glued the two seat supports (D11), to the floor, added cables, then glued seat assembly (A21 & A29), to those seat supports (D11). As it was, I had to just clip out the horizontal members of the seat supports (D11), to allow complete seat assembly to pass over them. As long as we're on the subject, I'd also recommend drilling the holes all the way through the bulkhead (A18), to allow the rear ends of rudder control cables some free play. When I squished the fuselage halves together, it buckled the interior assembly, bending the cables out of true, and it's too late now to fix it, (the openings weren't completely through the bulkhead on my example, and I was too thick headed to correct it when I had the chance).
Thanks for the explanation FB. I have this kit coming and will probably put it on the 'to do next" stash. The last Eindecker I built was in 1967 with the Aurora Release. I am really looking forward to building it, and will reference your build log.
Best
Mark
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Hi there,
I've been following this thread closely and am enjoying the progress very much. I am working on my own Eindecker at the moment and have reached the rigging stage. I am a bit stalled now as I'm still trying to plan my attack on the rigging. So I'm looking forward to seeing how you approach it. My big concern is the anchor points on the undercart. There doesn't seem to be much room down there.
Cheers,
John
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Hi there,
I've been following this thread closely and am enjoying the progress very much. I am working on my own Eindecker at the moment and have reached the rigging stage. I am a bit stalled now as I'm still trying to plan my attack on the rigging. So I'm looking forward to seeing how you approach it. My big concern is the anchor points on the undercart. There doesn't seem to be much room down there.
Cheers,
John
For whatever it's worth, I intend to rig landing gear first, the trapeze on top after that, then add elevators and rudder. I'm still not real confident I can do all of that without trashing something in the process though. Time will tell I suppose. (I've been nursing a nasty head cold since Sunday, so haven't touched this yet this week.)
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Hi again,
Yes, I don't think it is job I'd want to tackle with a bad cold. Hope you're feeling better soon. I keep putting the rigging off and I've started a WNW Albatross, so it might get put off for a long while yet. I was thinking of doing the rudder and elevators first to get a bit of practice in, then the undercart and the trapeze last. Will see how it goes ...
Cheers,
John
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Hi again,
Yes, I don't think it is job I'd want to tackle with a bad cold. Hope you're feeling better soon. I keep putting the rigging off and I've started a WNW Albatross, so it might get put off for a long while yet. I was thinking of doing the rudder and elevators first to get a bit of practice in, then the undercart and the trapeze last. Will see how it goes ...
Cheers,
John
Just for kicks (and to avoid the cool, damp dungeon), I decided to start clipping and cleaning up parts for my D.VII; at least I feel like I’m accomplishing something!
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Feeling a bit better tonight, I decided to at least get a little done on this if I could. Topsides of elevators picked, and decals added.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/122212004.jpg)
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Fuselage bottom (which was gloss coated after sides and top), receives decal stripes and some washes. Decal stripes left alone for the moment so it can cure.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/122212007.jpg)
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I decided to also make some wheel chocks. This is the first.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/Fokker%20EII/122212001.jpg)
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You are moving along very nicely Kevin, the fuselage decals look great. (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/smileys/free-sign-smileys-978.gif) (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/skype-emoticons.html)
Des.
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You are moving along very nicely Kevin, the fuselage decals look great. (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/smileys/free-sign-smileys-978.gif) (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/skype-emoticons.html)
Des.
Thanks Des. In retrospect, I wish I'd painted the fuselage stripes though. Fortunately, I have already determined that there are so many mistakes I've made, that the model won't be going to our invitational in September, so I'll just finish slamming it together, and move on. It seems the excellent engineering and close fit of the parts as designed, have actually worked against me, something I'll be keeping in mind when I begin my D.VII.
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One thing I failed to mention, one of the large cross decals (fortunately on the bottom of wing), wrinkled all to heck, and I simply cannot repair it. Not real sure what happened, but of the four, one just refused to cooperate. All the rest went down tight, no real problems at all.
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yea man dont you hate that. once in a while a decal just gives you the finger. alot of times i soak it with water and am able to make it work but once in a while it sticks fast and wont budge with a wrinkle or folded corner. what can you do? you fokker looks pretty nice so for man keep up the great work.
the one thing that is not up to par on this release(imho) is the rigging guide. i mean wtf, good thing i know how its supp to look becuz that jumble on the rigging page is litt help. they shoulve made the lines diff colors so people who havent done an einnie can see how they lay.
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the one thing that is not up to par on this release(imho) is the rigging guide. i mean wtf, good thing i know how its supp to look becuz that jumble on the rigging page is litt help. they shoulve made the lines diff colors so people who havent done an einnie can see how they lay.
Do I sense a little frustration in this post....? But I know what you mean, I'm at THAT point with mine but the DVII arrived and everything else went on hold.
Sympatheticaly Keith
FB. Handle the DVII with care its an unforgiving beast. Misalignments in the tub build will bite you in the bum later. Also consider re-inforcing the seam where the fuselage meets the front if you arent using the later type cowlings. Why WNW couldnt supply 2 different fuselages and not this botch I can only put down to production cost.
Keith
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G'day, Kevin.
It's a pity about that cross, mate. Everything else is looking very good indeed. I only got the duellists version, or I'd send you a spare. Perhaps one of the other lads may have a spare for you?
I haven't looked too closely at the Eindekker rigging. But that confusion of blue lines does make it look like it's been woven by a spider on a bad acid trip, doesn't it?
Cheers.
Dal.
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G'day, Kevin.
It's a pity about that cross, mate. Everything else is looking very good indeed. I only got the duellists version, or I'd send you a spare. Perhaps one of the other lads may have a spare for you?
I haven't looked too closely at the Eindekker rigging. But that confusion of blue lines does make it look like it's been woven by a spider on a bad acid trip, doesn't it?
Cheers.
Yep, I'm not real sure I understand it either, but I'll try to make the best of it.
Dal.
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Scroll through eduard's website for eindecker kits, you can often download their instructions including rigging guides. Combining theirs with that from WNW may help? Alternatively check out the build logs and the pics on the WNW site. I had enought bother when I did my Eduard E.III weekend edition, but found out eventually. It is difficult to describe in words though...
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Scroll through eduard's website for eindecker kits, you can often download their instructions including rigging guides. Combining theirs with that from WNW may help? Alternatively check out the build logs and the pics on the WNW site. I had enought bother when I did my Eduard E.III weekend edition, but found out eventually. It is difficult to describe in words though...
Not a bad idea, I may have to look into that.
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I am about to rig my Eindekker and I too am bloody confused!
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I am about to rig my Eindekker and I too am bloody confused!
Temporarily, I've just lost interest all together, but intend to resume work and finish within the next month or so.
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Kevin,
Looking forward to the return my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Kevin,
Looking forward to the return my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
As am I ;)
Andrew
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Thanks fellas. I may resume work tomorrow night. Trying to get myself worked up for a trip to the dungeon.
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Hey Guys, I don't have the kit yet. I might have a little help on the rigging though.
How about picking up some multicolor fine tip high lighter pens? You could lay a ruler on the rigging diagram and trace each set of wire with a different color pen. It may help sort the spider's web a little.
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Hey Guys, I don't have the kit yet. I might have a little help on the rigging though.
How about picking up some multicolor fine tip high lighter pens? You could lay a ruler on the rigging diagram and trace each set of wire with a different color pen. It may help sort the spider's web a little.
Fortunately, I have almost every book that I know to exist on the early E series Fokkers, so it shouldn't be all that bad to figure out.