forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: RAGIII on May 28, 2014, 11:09:52 AM
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(https://i.postimg.cc/MKbNbLcb/IMG-20210621-172656435.jpg)
I am going to do a little Step by step of my "Favorite" method of replicating the Streaked finish on Fokker built Aircraft. The first pictures will show the basic materials I use. In this case Oils in Cadmium Yellow, Ivory Black, a red to bring the color just slightly into the Olive brown range, a variety of brushes from pointed to fan, and an appropriate acrylic base paint, in this case Polyscale CDL. I also use Testors Airbrush thinner as my thinning agent as it is Hotter than Terps and speeds up the drying time. (It will take me a while to complete the entire post) so please be patient.
RAGIII
Here are the oils and thinner I use.
A variety of brushes: These are inexpensive brushes purchased at a very large retailer for a very low cost!
(https://i.postimg.cc/VvXCJbZd/fokkerstreakedcamo-004.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCwmjPRw/fokkerstreakedcamo-001.jpg)
The subject model is the Revelle 1/72nd Fokker Dr1. The following pictures show the aircraft after basic construction than after the Acrylic CDL base is applied:
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NGF0t6f/Fokkerstreakingtutorial-008.jpg)
I use the acrylic base because the oils and thinner will not affect the underlying coat when applied... More in the next post:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MGhH1pQR/fokkerstreakedcamo-025.jpg)
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Now all is ready to apply streaks: The basic technique involves Mixing black and yellow oils to create an Olive Green. depending on your feelings about the color of these streaks add a little red( very little) to adjust to your liking. The more red the more BROWN!
I use a 50/50 mix of the black and yellow, and just a drop of red. Here is what it looks like after mixing:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SssdYVcj/fokkerstreakingprocess-002.jpg)
I begin by applying the oils to the areas that will end up as the darkest streaks. I use a 1/4 or 1/8 flat brush depending on scale:
(https://i.postimg.cc/0jKCcQWs/fokkerstreakingprocess-014.jpg)
Next I wet the flat brush and begin pulling it through the pigment in the direction I want the streaks to go. I move from leading to trailing edge and left to right. This spreads out the paint leaving various light and dark areas.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2jPpmBfn/fokkerstreakingprocess-016.jpg)
The next steps are using a wider flat brush and removing pigment where you want the lighter cdl showing through, and inevitably adding a little pigment where you remove too much. The oils are forgiving and can be totally removed( At least a couple of times) without damaging your acrylic base. Work WET but not dripping wet ::)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzHNPL5f/fokkerstreakingprocess-013.jpg)
I then use a wide flat brush to smooth things out. Look at the pictures of your subject to get ideas on where you want the light and dark!
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDJnbKKT/revdr1-94.jpg)
Next a fan brush to begin to smooth things even more.
(https://i.postimg.cc/50V1xYzP/revdr1-96.jpg)
Last is a big very soft brush as the final smoothing agent. The technique is the same for the fuselage and tail surfaces just pull the oils down vertically on the fuselage sides.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSDRvrKh/revdr1-97.jpg)
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The method takes much longer to explain than it does to do. Each wing surface took about 5 to 10 minutes, NOT INCLUDING THE 3 days drying time after 8) Again the oils are very forgiving and give you a lot of time to tweak the streaks to match your subject. I will close my portion with a few more generic pictures.
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/dtxYhSdZ/fokkerstreakingprocess2-006.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJs9mMmJ/fokkerdr1revelle-005.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhbVdrFj/fokkerdr1revelle-001-crop.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYQZkBvh/revdr1-18.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FM43KCD/revelledr1-007-crop.jpg)
I hope this helps and of course I would love to see others post their techniques on this thread: Ed are you out there ;D
RAGIII
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Great post Rick! Thanks for sharing that...
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Thank you for the information Rick. Really helpful stuff, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Great tutorial. Kind of want to try my hand at the streaking. This gives me an idea how to start.
Thanks
James
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Thanks for posting this! I haven't had the opportunity to try this color scheme yet, but now I know I won't back away from it :)
Again, thanks!
Mark G.
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I've always admired your streaking technique, amigo. Thanks for this thread. I'm currently using water based oils for their fast drying time, but I must admit that I like the idea of using Testors thinner with oils. I'll have to give it a try.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thank you for the tutorial Rick :) Your streaking looks very effective. This is the same method I mostly use for woodgraining (with less variation in density of course) so would be happy to give your streaking method a go.
Using oils, are the finished surfaces OK for decals or do you give them a shot of klear or other varnish first? I guess a coating protects the finished surfaces too?
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Thank you for the tutorial Rick :) Your streaking looks very effective. This is the same method I mostly use for woodgraining (with less variation in density of course) so would be happy to give your streaking method a go.
Using oils, are the finished surfaces OK for decals or do you give them a shot of klear or other varnish first? I guess a coating protects the finished surfaces too?
Thanks Guys I hope Modelers continue to find this info useful. As I stated I would also like to see other Methods described here!
Ian, in answer to your question, YES an Acrylic clear gloss is applied as soon as possible after the Oils dry. This not only preps for decals but keeps the oils from wearing away through handling!
RAGIII
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A small addition here. I was also able to use XTRA color enamel Gloss German WW1 green using the same basic technique on my build of the Encore Dr1 in 1/32nd. The difference was that I used thinned paint on the lighter areas applied a little more directly then went over with another coat with paint a little less thin. I was still able to remove unwanted paint with a wide flat brush. The working time isn't as forgiving as the oils though. Sorry no in progress tutorial photos but they would be similar to what I posted before. I think it is the GLOSS finish that allows the technique to work as the paint doesn't dry as quickly as flat finishes.
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGXh0vPR/dr1-40.jpg)
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Nice work.
A Dr.1 is on the stocks at the moment so this will be my big challenge.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Nice work.
A Dr.1 is on the stocks at the moment so this will be my big challenge.
Cheers,
GrahamB
Thanks Graham. I am sure you will have no trouble meeting the painting challenge. Hopefully others will eventually contribute their methods in tutorial form to give us all other options !
RAGIII
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Just seen this Rick. You have removed the mystery of how to get the streaky effect at last….. and in God's Own Scale too!!!! This is a MOST useful post - very many thanks for explaining it so clearly and with such good pictures too. I had never considered using oil paints and the variety of artists brushes before - I always feel that the finishes on my models leave something to be desired but as I am not a very good artist I have not been very sure what to do to improve them. In one tutorial you have given me lots of good ideas. Once again very many thanks.
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Just seen this Rick. You have removed the mystery of how to get the streaky effect at last….. and in God's Own Scale too!!!! This is a MOST useful post - very many thanks for explaining it so clearly and with such good pictures too. I had never considered using oil paints and the variety of artists brushes before - I always feel that the finishes on my models leave something to be desired but as I am not a very good artist I have not been very sure what to do to improve them. In one tutorial you have given me lots of good ideas. Once again very many thanks.
LM,
Thanks for your feedback. I posted this just for the reasons you state. Streaking isn't all that hard, just takes practice. Along that line before you attack your Fokker, practice on some appropriately prepared sheet styrene or an old kit from the junk pile!
RAGIII
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Rick,
Which form of cadmium yellow do you use? Light, medium, or deep?
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Rick,
Which form of cadmium yellow do you use? Light, medium, or deep?
Thanks for asking as I had forgotten to mention that I use DEEP!
RAGIII
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I thought of a couple of other things worth mentioning. Because the oils are a "TAD" messy, I wait until all of the uppers are dry and clear coated, then mask off the turn around on the fuselage and paint the blue unders! This makes for a crisp separation on the leading edges of the wings. I then paint the cross back grounds and add any squadron /personal markings.
RAGIII
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Hey Rick, this is going to be very helpful on my next build.
Have you ever tried adding driers, like jap drier, to the oil paints? It does make oil paint dry somewhat faster, I've used it on paintings but wondered if it would work with your technique.
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Never tried driers per say. As I said I use Testors Airbrush thinner which is fairly hot and speeds up drying time a little. As the process itself is fairly quick I see no reason that driers should prove to be a problem.
RAGIII
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I just stumbled on this thread now Rick and I'm sure glad that I did. Excellent information here.
Cheers,
Chris
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(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/eindecker/SteinhauserDr1.jpg)
Ltn Steinhauser
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/eindecker/IMG_0017.jpg)
Ltn Weiss
Eduard 1:48. Oils over Tamiya acrylic light blue, mixed in batches and applied sequentially light to dark, blending the shades with a rather stiff brush. My reading is that the colors were more in the green and blue spectrum than olive and brown.
The personal markings, yellow and red, were masked and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I used a satin flat coat, but don't remember which brand.
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You can see my Voss F1 aircraft.
First priming, then painting with Torquise at last with dry brush Olive colour.
Martin
(http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p411/radio167/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/15_zpsaf1bd896.jpg) (http://s346.photobucket.com/user/radio167/media/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/15_zpsaf1bd896.jpg.html)
(http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p411/radio167/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/17_zps1d09722e.jpg) (http://s346.photobucket.com/user/radio167/media/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/17_zps1d09722e.jpg.html)
(http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p411/radio167/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/27_zps9421abf6.jpg) (http://s346.photobucket.com/user/radio167/media/Great%20War/Fokker%20Dr%20I/27_zps9421abf6.jpg.html)
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Beautifully done, Martin.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thank you Bud. 8)
Martin
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Eduard 1:48. Oils over Tamiya acrylic light blue, mixed in batches and applied sequentially light to dark, blending the shades with a rather stiff brush. My reading is that the colors were more in the green and blue spectrum than olive and brown.
The personal markings, yellow and red, were masked and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I used a satin flat coat, but don't remember which brand.
Thanks for posting! I am not in this to debate colors, but your streaking is beautiful so now a few questions,
1. You said Sequentially lighter to darker. Do you wait for the previous coat to dry?
2.What consistency of paint are you using/ wet or dry?
3.Any in progress shots possible? My intention with this thread is to show ANY METHOD and Provide the Necessary info to use the process. Thanks again for posting your METHOD!
RAGIII
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Thank you. I did these models about six years ago. I may have a few progress shots, but I will need to dig around in the photo archives to see. As well as I can remember, I painted the entire aircraft (except for the struts, etc.) a light blue. Figuring the Fokker painters layered their streaky colors over this, I mixed oils straight from the tubes to get a greenish olive color and brushed it on directly with a chisel brush, about a quarter of an inch wide. I angled the strokes on the wings, striving for deeper and lighter color densities focused in areas, or "patches" as I went. I got some of this variation by cleaning the brush and stroking in the same direction, removing areas of the paint.
I then mixed in a little umber, to get a darker olive shade and applied this in "patches" as well. I removed excess paint using the clean brush method until it looked right. I think I made one more sparing pass with a darker shade than the second. Not very much of this though. Where the contrasting edges were too sharp, I used a small, round brush to blend the colors, but not enough to blend out the streaks. When it looked "right" to me, I stopped and let it dry for a week before gloss coating the decal areas — mainly the insignia areas — applied those and hit it with a satin flat.
I used pastels to highlight the rib tapes on Weiss' aircraft.
If I can find in-progress images, I will post them in a follow up.
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Thank You for the Further info on your Method! similar to mine but perhaps a little more refined/controlled. I like the results! As I said about colors, depending on what "School" you are in, the Green can be more Olive brown by adding just a touch of red to the mix. I have also recently experimented with a pre mixed Olive green and someday will show the results on this thread.
RAGIII
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I just stumbled on this thread now Rick and I'm sure glad that I did. Excellent information here.
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks Chris, I hope my method and others posted to this thread will continue to help modelers master Fokker Streaking.
RAGIII
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One observation. Looking at period photos of streaking, especially those taken in the Fokker shop, and of F.103/17, I think many models have their brush strokes, or lines, too large. I like a fine bristled brush and work to
make the bristle marks as fine as I can. More to scale I think. This is where oils come into their own. Extensive working time. You pay for that with long curing time, but I think it is worth it.
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Slaps the post for fellow streakers.
Keith
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Martin,
Thank you for your contribution to the thread. The drybrushing technique can certainly be effective as on your Dr1. do you thin the paint before drybrushing or is it straight from the bottle?
RAGIII
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Hi Rick
it comes direct from the Misterkit bottles. ::)
This System had I read some years ago. 8)
Martin
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To paint streaks I used the same method as the real aircraft were painted. The whole model was painted with a base color. Then with a wide brush about 15 mm a wide I with diluted paint Livecolor I painted streaks.
Test painting I did on the wing of another model.
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01356_zps8f6636f6.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01357_zps8dccc36b.jpg)
I decided that this method is good and then I painted my Fokker.
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01362_zps677f38fe.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01378.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC03346_zps817552b4.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01664_zpse17b9be3.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC01662_zps875d018d.jpg)
This is the large model 1:32 scale.
On the model in 1:72 scale, this method rather failed. :(
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC03364_zps38a736a0.jpg)
(http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/AlbatrosDIII/FokkerDr-1/mDSC03363_zpse7673f44.jpg)
Adam.
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Adam,
sorry for the late reply! Thank You for sharing your Method. That is what this thread is about!
RAGIII
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Well, heck, as long as we're at it, here is my first attempt at streaking. This is my first kit on coming back to the hobby*, and I got very frustrated at trying to make enamel or acrylic paint do what I wanted. (Next time I'm going to use RAG's method.) In any event, I decided to use watercolor pencils. I sprayed the kit with Testors Dullcote, and then started drawing the streaks. I then went over the kit with a small damp brush. In the end I think the results are mixed, but it was kind of fun to try to reproduce the finish in a rather unconventional way.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff12/dixieflyer500/fokkerfIside-view_zps61058452.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/dixieflyer500/media/fokkerfIside-view_zps61058452.jpg.html)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff12/dixieflyer500/fokkerfIquarter-view_zps5666134d.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/dixieflyer500/media/fokkerfIquarter-view_zps5666134d.jpg.html)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff12/dixieflyer500/fokkerfIrear-view_zpse2c25ffe.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/dixieflyer500/media/fokkerfIrear-view_zpse2c25ffe.jpg.html)
FWIW,
Warren
*My other builds (SPAD VII C.1, Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter, and a couple of Nieuports) are in various stages of destruction, rather than construction, due to my own ham-fistedness. I hope to return to them soon.
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Warren,
Thanks for sharing your Pencil Method! I still think your results were/are excellent. Another Method worth trying out in the future'
RAGIII
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An older 1/28 model of Lothar v. R.s DVII. Enamels with a RLM 70-ish green dry brushed over the basecoat.
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg270/mikeincalif/Fokker%20DVII/DVII-5.jpg) (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/mikeincalif/media/Fokker%20DVII/DVII-5.jpg.html)
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg270/mikeincalif/Fokker%20DVII/0f6db16b-9d61-4f49-9f5c-285dd9015e18.jpg) (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/mikeincalif/media/Fokker%20DVII/0f6db16b-9d61-4f49-9f5c-285dd9015e18.jpg.html)
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Here's my Roden 1/32. I streaked it with thinned Model Master paint. It turned out alright.
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/sobrien_album/DSCN0766_zpse858a576.jpg) (http://s146.photobucket.com/user/sobrien_album/media/DSCN0766_zpse858a576.jpg.html)
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/sobrien_album/DSCN0775_zps23227ac6.jpg) (http://s146.photobucket.com/user/sobrien_album/media/DSCN0775_zps23227ac6.jpg.html)
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Figure I would add to the thread, here is my Werner Voss F.1 under construction. It is the DML Dragon kit with the Rosemont conversion for the tailplane. After much debate with Taz and Dan San Abbott on the Aerodrome forum, I figured out the F1 was not painted entirely turquoise then streaked, but was bleached linen, which would give it the "silvery-gray" color as described by McCudden. So I mixed up a base color of sand and white to give the bleached linen color and painted the entire airframe this color. I used Model Master and Agama enamels for the colors. After the base color dried I coated it with Future acrylic floor finish, this ensures that the streaks will not dissolve the base linen color. I did much like the actual aircraft, and took a thin brush with thinned down Agama Fokker Olive which was used to streak as seen below. I went back with thinner to lighten some areas and think it came out well as compared to photos of F.1 103/17.
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/f008_1.jpg)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/006greyscale_1.jpg)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/f15_1.jpg)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/003_1.jpg)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/f007_1.jpg)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/014_1.jpg)
For a little practice I decided to do the Revell Fokker Funfendecker in the same scheme!
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k489/davecww1/funfendecker_1.jpg)
Dave C
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Thanks for all of the recent posts on different streaking methods! All look great and have merit to modelers looking to streak their Fokkers! Dave, you certainly have reminded me of one of my FAVORITE non provable Aerodrome discussions! No not the Yellow cowl but the base color of 102 qnd 103/17. I appreciate DSA and Tazs' work but agree with Greg van Wyngarden on this one and think the base was blue ;D Who really knows? Excellent results by the way!
RAGIII
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(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m53/MikkoHeikkinen/P4100817.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/user/MikkoHeikkinen/media/P4100817.jpg.html)
Looks like I had in my photobucket this pic for some reason. :D Well I share it here.
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Thanks for sharing the photo! I like number 1 and 3 a lot! Both look very effective. The acrylics thinned with Johnson clear sounds like an interesting method to try!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rag! Imho nr.1 is too slanting to right. But it's my first streaking. :D Pics don't give credit to 2 and 4, they aren't se green than shown in pic. But here is my latest streaking effort, eduard 1/48 E.V wing.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m53/MikkoHeikkinen/13782212_1241657962532024_801252614339290653_n.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/user/MikkoHeikkinen/media/13782212_1241657962532024_801252614339290653_n.jpg.html)
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Lovely work. A couple of questions on the acrylic and future/Johnsons.
1. Do you use one color thinned to different consistencies? OR
2. Do you use multiple coats of the same mix?
By the way I did make a small error in my original comment. I like all of the tripes but it was #2 and #3 that really got my attention. Here is a shot of my EV in 1/48th by Eduard. I used cheap Delta Ceramicoat acrylics for this one.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvsfHXcj/DSCF6598.jpg)
RAGIII
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My only attempt at a "streaked" finish. Roden's 1:32 DR.1 with a "semi dry brush" technique of a Khaki Drab type green mix over CDL, all Model Master enamels.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1038.jpg) (http://s1141.photobucket.com/user/lcarroll1/media/IMG_1038.jpg.html)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1043.jpg) (http://s1141.photobucket.com/user/lcarroll1/media/IMG_1043.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Lance
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Nicely done Lance. The dry brushing technique is very effective.
RAGIII
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My streaking technique done in the same manner as Lance's. I guess great minds think alike! I'll be posting a lot more pics of this one in "Completed Models" soon.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/laskodi/DSCN6618a_zpsquhgd1fh.jpg)
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Hi Rag. Sorry for late response. Actually both. First multiple coats of same mix. Let it be sometime first and then start doing streaking with brush. Second and third coat if it needs thät. Final less tinned mixture to darker areas. Hope answered to your question
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Mikko,
Yes your answer is exactly what we needed to know! Thanks,
RAGIII
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Bob,
Thanks for sharing your triplane. Very nicely done.
RAGIII
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Lots of good info here. Thank you all! I'm about to start streaking my DVII build so I'm glad I found this.
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Lance and Bob, well done !
Ed
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The Latest off of my bench: Encore 1/32nd Fokker F1 103/17. I used a slightly different method to apply the streaks on this one. Using oils over a blue acrylic base. I started with an Olive green oil, applied it in dabs then blended in dots of burnt umber. As in my other method I did the blending in the direction of the streaks. I then went back and used a moistened flat brush to thin out certain areas and remove unwanted pigment. I added and subtracted using this method until I had the streaks as close to the photos as I could get them.
RAGIII
(https://s20.postimg.cc/hb0upw7i5/DSCF6406.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/41w4h9xj1/DSCF6413.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/msby9xukd/DSCF6366.jpg)
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My first WWI build - Dragon 1/48 Fokker Dr.1. Streaking was done with Olive Green artist oil over Mister Kit CDL. Several attempts were needed before I got acceptable results but the experience taught me a lot about working with oils which paid off handsomely doing the wood grain on my next build - the WNW LVG. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/YsJnPxL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zXFmaX3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0fe4EHR.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/pofhadl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JHhpxFI.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wiwaB5d.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/A2ihWHW.jpg)
Cheers,
Eric
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Thanks for sharing ! Your oils work looks similar to my original method. Did you use a damp brush to move the oils around or just the straight dry brush method?
RAGIII
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That looks very nice Eric!
I just ordered a sheet of Aviattic's new streaked decals in 1:72. I'll post my Dr1 build when I get to it so we can see how they look.
Ian
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Thanks for sharing ! Your oils work looks similar to my original method. Did you use a damp brush to move the oils around or just the straight dry brush method?
RAGIII
You're welcome! Just a dry brush.
Eric
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A few additions here for doing the Fokker EV/DVIII streaked/stained wing finish.
RAIII
This one was done using Oils in a method similar to my regular Fokker Streaking Method.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/r94i0pyt9/DSCF6235.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/5s2w48399/DSCF6227.jpg)
This one is done using Water Color Pencils. A method that I still think has promise for the "Stained" Streaking Look.
I used the pencils with a whetted tip, then drew the pencil in the direction of the streaks.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/e3ozum4xp/DSCF6239.jpg)
This was the one I used on my Avis Kit. Polyscale Acrylics thinned and Painted on in a multi layer streaked Method.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/z0950xt31/DSCF6709.jpg)
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What the wing looks like in place:
(https://s20.postimg.cc/54f4taghp/DSCF6730.jpg)
RAGIII
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Well Done ! my Amigo !!
Ed
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Well Done ! my Amigo !!
Ed
And so says the third Amigo!
Cheers,
Bud
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My latest streaking project. WNW Fokker DVII. I used a different Mixture of Oils this time. Prussian blue and burnt umber. Some was applied pre mixed and some in the form of dots blended together. All applied over an acrylic beige base. I used my usual damp flat brushes to remove unwanted pigment.
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXWdrb9z/DSCF8269.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/65pCgdd5/DSCF8281.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YqDQHh3N/DSCF8276.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7ZC0YwsF/DSCF8280.jpg)
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Spectacular results, as always, Amigo! I know I must sound like a broken record, but I think this is my favorite.
Cheers,
Bud
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Graet streaking, and great Fokker.
Giuseppe
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Spectacular results, as always, Amigo! I know I must sound like a broken record, but I think this is my favorite.
Cheers,
Bud
Absolutely stunning work Rick, this finish is just plain spectacular. I scrolled way back to the beginning when you started this thread and the improvement in the effect is remarkable, nice work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Simply outstanding Rick, your streaked Fokkers are world class.
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Hi all,
I’ve been asked to add to this thread after my Meng Fokker Dr.I build. Just to demonstrate an alternative method of streaking.
I started off by painting the wings linen or any light beige shade to taste,
I then angled the wing across my cutting mat to the degree of slant required, fixed into place with Blu-Tack then used a steel rule an inch or so above the wing as a guide for the airbrush - using the parallel lines on the mat as a guide. But, I found this didn’t work so well on the kit wings. Because of the airfoil shape it didn’t produce dead straight lines, so I ended up doing them freehand but still with the wing fixed and using the mat lines as a guide again - starting well off the wing and finishing well over the other side. It looks like different colours, but it’s in fact the same MRP RAF Dark Green but just varying the intensity of the lines in sections.
I gradually built up the streaking effect. I limited the needle’s movement rearwards so I didn’t get a ‘splurge’ of paint and used a low pressure setting.
Simple really!
Guy
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wQxkQ4B/C8173669-7-C7-D-4866-B183-0-E317-E6127-ED.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKQ6sScL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/26B1ptmg/4-FEF80-E6-FCC4-4-C15-B8-A9-1-D3-F6-FC59-F74.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cg0xwXvc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHpTz0MJ/FCB910-FC-3-CF5-4-EFC-95-CE-4-EFAC31-C7-BD6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vgCMzVt0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxmWxSDP/27-BA5954-90-F5-432-F-8-A9-A-A48-DC2-F18551.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kR57hGF6)
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Very nice result!
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Excellent results and thanks for adding this method to the thread! I am going to experiment on an old wing and see if I can do the basics your way and perhaps do just a tad with a brush. Again thanks for posting this beauty!
RAGIII
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My first attempt with brushed on oils, using Windsor and Newton series 2 oils.. still a work in progress. This is a 1/48th F1 (voss’s) aircraft thats on my workbench..
Issues that I have to think through is the buildup on rib tapes and matching colours with airbrushed cowl. But all in all its a fairly easy process
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50691197581_2a4f82761c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kepCZc)4E17F1D1-2CC8-4F27-878B-92C4FED728EE (https://flic.kr/p/2kepCZc) by Ray (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayb24/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50690450693_9f623f85cb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kekNXP)FE241287-FBA8-4AF1-BC6A-40D414A5DEC1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kekNXP) by Ray (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayb24/), on Flickr
Ray
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Looking great! As for the build up on the tapes you should be able to blend the oils in while still wet. On the other hand I have noticed some build up on the tapes(outlining almost) on the real birds. A wide, very soft, flat brush helps with the blending.
RAGIII
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I tried a little different Method on this Roden Fokker DR1. I used Acrylics as seen in the photo. The wash was applied and also mixed with the other colors to add differnet intensities to the streaks. The usual brushes were used to remove and smooth the unwanted paint.
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDV5w5Ng/122998964-4112880242072350-7738501543987681026-o.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/44jQMm3D/IMG-20201205-122722399.jpg)
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Rick, this looks nice and with acrylic paint it is may be a quicker method, but the streaking reference is (for me) your D.VII on top of the page! ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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I figured I would add the other three Triplanes to the thread. All are done with oils using the standard method and colors: Ivory black, Cadmium Yellow (50/50 mix, and just a "Touch" of Harrison red.
RAGIII
(https://i.postimg.cc/76tDfFjs/IMG-20210523-231719701.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hn1yL6Hr/IMG-20210116-113306494.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tChzFVM0/IMG-20210116-113408625.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4d76yK9S/IMG-20210116-113128016.jpg)
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Beautiful work Rick!
Someone suggested to me that I post on my recent experience with using Aviattic Fokker Streaking decals. These come in pre-cut and strip form.
(https://i.imgur.com/i8fF03E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aQAQWUH.jpg)
I have tried these on the 1/48 Eduard Fokker Dr.1.
First, I started with some priming followed by some pre-shading:
(https://i.imgur.com/JPyaavt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5T3rb3k.jpg)
Then the upper surface colours (upon which the translucent streaking decals would later sit over), followed by a gloss coat:
(https://i.imgur.com/6TRRa7Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zma6v2z.jpg)
Next came the Aviattic decals. These went down reasonably nicely. The pre-cut shapes were not quite right and did not quite fit in a number of places. Luckily, I had their other sheet which effectively represents solid sections of 'streaking', so I could tailor some parts here and there:
(https://i.imgur.com/HuUJnWg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rFbH2ua.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O2qsxtw.jpg)
Next came the individual aircraft markings:
(https://i.imgur.com/TgB3iZ1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/awHwqXo.jpg)
Then a few extra additions, a flat coat, a little bit of post shading, and the start of some weathering:
(https://i.imgur.com/B4oJ1LN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/imvjeoh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yRzG58T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/COUSUZD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YbN5DrX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lPJ2Zsb.jpg)
The Aviattic decals do show the pre-shading through, but I did have to do a little post shading to get the wing ribs to show through just a little more. I could stand to have them a little more obvious, but I have learned enough times that the art of subtlety is difficult - you're always better served stopping just before you think you have too much :) These decals are nice to use, but are stretchy, and difficult to cut once dry (even a sharp knife tends to 'stretch' the decals... arg). Hence I still have some cleaning up to do around wing trailing edges, and so forth. That being said, I do like the representation of streaking; it's not unnaturally even, and does well I think to represent the subtle irregularities of real life hand painting. Decals allow for a cleaner job as well. So, well done Aviattic :)
So, those are my experiences so far with using this method.
Cheers,
BC
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Awesome results and photos Brad! Thanks for such a Detailed explanation. Makes Me want to build another DR1 and use the Aviattic Decals!
RAGIII
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Brad,
Thanks so much for posting this, I'm really looking forward to using these on my next Tripe build, and Ricks method as well.
FWIW, here is the instructions from Richard at Aviattic regarding their use on the 1/72nd Eduard Triplane for those so inclined:
https://www.aviattic.co.uk/172-fokker-streaking-decals.html
HTH!
WD
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After looking at triplanes for years, I've watched so many try different methods to try and get that Fokker look.
As if it's not hard enough, the streaking on the same a/c can look very different from one photo to the next taken minutes apart...
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.30.27_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.30.27_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.31.16_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.31.16_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
Some techniques seem to work better than others.
When Aviattic came out with there streaking decals, I was struck at how airbrushed they looked.
Airbrush alone won't do it. In many shots there seems to be a definite hard edge here and there.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.27.48_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.27.48_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I'm experimenting but I think I'm pretty close to what I will use on my 152.
My colors.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173958.103.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173958.103.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I cut some clear plastic from a food container to use as a mask. Fokker wing streaking seem to be about 10 degrees.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173937.749.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173937.749.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173931.869.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173931.869.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173922.933.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173922.933.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173912.517.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173912.517.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
My faithful test mule was sprayed with the beige and then I used my go-to 34079 through the template. By moving and overlapping and going back I got this in one shot.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173859.789.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173859.789.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173906.500.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173906.500.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I think I will still experiment with some sharp pencil lines here and there.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.27.13_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.27.13_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.28.31_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-05_at_5.28.31_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_(69)_cQLnwJ8ruAxrp8hUrhQaug.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_(69)_cQLnwJ8ruAxrp8hUrhQaug.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
And you can clean up the stencil and use again...
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173851.068.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173851.068.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I'm also thinking you can change the slots for 1/72 scale.
I think this is close but I still need to tweak it some.
I shot fine white primer over everything, then shot my recipe for Fokker blue on the bottom then masked.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114803.450.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114803.450.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I then shot Vallejo 71.028 "sand yellow" as my base color.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173958.103.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173958.103.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I then shot Vallejo 71.294 through a cut stencil.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173912.517.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-05T173912.517.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
This is close. Some parts are better than others but by and large I think I can get this to be a viable way to replicate the Fokker streaking.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114810.728.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114810.728.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114856.887.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114856.887.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114904.635.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114904.635.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114912.091.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114912.091.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114919.871.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114919.871.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114848.639.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114848.639.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114841.694.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-08T114841.694.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-08_at_11.34.24_AM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-08_at_11.34.24_AM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-08_at_12.46.27_PM.png?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/Screen_Shot_2022-12-08_at_12.46.27_PM.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
Things I learned:
1) I need to make a better, longer stencil. I worked, as the "real guy" did on the wings, from right to left. As I moved the stencil left, by the time I got to the left end of the wing, I now had 3-4-5 applications of paint built up on the stencil making for a wet, messy piece of plastic. I will cut a new stencil the full length of the upper wing.(I think..)
2) I was trying to be clever and thinned the 34079 with retarder and thinner. Next time I will just mix it my regular way so it dries quicker with less chance of smudging.
3) Important to know when to stop. I did the wings first, fuselage last. I realized I went too heavy with the streaking on the wings. The fuselage is about right coverage wise. I should have let more of the base show through on the wings.
4) You can see I got the stencil a little crooked on the right side, the left looks better straighter and with more base showing through.
I'm not too concerned about my goofs on the top wing and horizontal stabilizer as they will be covered in red. I may try and fix the streaking on the right hand fuselage, I should figure out something to fix mistakes.
Well, the Peddinghaus decals performed just as expected, not opaque white and out-of-register, pink crosses,..... whatever.....
The "152" I pieced together from different sheets as the Peddinghaus sheet was totally the wrong font.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-09T082243.543.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-09T082243.543.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-13T221842.026.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-13T221842.026.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-13T221855.429.jpeg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-13T221855.429.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I think this side of the fuselage came out best, kinda choked on the wings.
I have 3-4 tripes in 1/72 scale and will attempt to adapt this technique to the one true scale.
Finished Dragon 1/48 scale.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170446.018.jpeg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170446.018.jpeg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170409.786.jpeg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170409.786.jpeg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170558.512.jpeg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170558.512.jpeg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/P1010026_mtFSXUeE61mwkM7zeb66wp.jpg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/P1010026_mtFSXUeE61mwkM7zeb66wp.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170420.471.jpeg) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/thumbnail_-_2022-12-14T170420.471.jpeg)
Hope this helps...
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Allan,
Thank You for adding this Technique to the thread. Yet another Method that gives excellent results. Lovely Triplane!
RAGIII