Hi all,
I've tried various methods to replicate RAF 'streamlined' flying wires and their attachments (see actual Sopwith Camel wing rigging below, from the Shuttleworth Collection, as an example).
1. EZ line or Prym or equivalents - these 'stretchy' lines do flatten to replicate 'streamlined' rigging, but I found this type of rigging gives no structural strength to the completed model.
2. Photo-etched flying wires and associated attachments from RB Productions are of different sizes are good, but again add no structural strength to the model and in addition, the end fittings are one size, which doesn't suit some of the different sizes of flat wire. Also I found the wires can slightly distort (bow) if the model is flexed or displayed at an angle.
3. Stretched sprue - Many modelers heat and stretch sprue to form thin strands of rigging. Again no real strength in the final product and achieving standard sized strands might prove tricky.
I've settled on using 'Steelon' mono-filament (of different sizes - 0.12, 0.14, 0.3 mm), Albion Alloy Nickel-Silver tube, thin copper wire (0.12 mm) and RB Motion miniature nuts.
Basically I spin the copper wire around a 0.2 mm drill to form an eyelet.
Take a length of Steelon line and slide on a nut and cut tube of the appropriate size.
Pass the end of the line through the eyelet 'ring' and back through the tube and nut.
Flatten the eyelet 'ring' so the tube and nut can be slid over the eyelet.
Do the same at the other end of the line, but don't slide the tubes and nuts over the eyelets yet.
Secure both end eyelet 'tails' into appropriate size holes pre-drilled into the model at the correct location and angle (to align with the opposite end attachment). Being copper wire, they will move to align once tension is applied to the line.
Slide the tube and nut over the eyelet at one end of the line so the tube butts up against the model and secure in position using thin CA adhesive, which will run through the nut, tube and eyelet to attach it all to the model.
Do the same at the other end, pulling the line through the tube and nut to tighten the line, then secure with CA adhesive.
Cut away the free exposed line at the tube.
Any slack in lines can be removed by applying heat from such as a soldering iron, with care, along the length of the line, which will shrink and tighten.
Completed rigging is airbrushed with Alclad Semi-Matte (AL 312) lacquer, which does not affect the line and 'knocks back' the glossiness of the line. The end fittings can be toned down using washes or thinned paint.
I've found this method looks OK as even at 1:32 scale, as I think most viewers would not notice the flying wires were round and not flat. Also the line gives strength and rigidity to the completed model (I have mine display at an angle on shelving) and all that can seen is the tube and nut holding the line.
Below as an example is my Sopwith Snipe (conventional rigging with turnbuckles is only used on flying control runs).
Just my 2 cents worth if it helps
