Author Topic: FINISHED: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II  (Read 43390 times)

Offline lone modeller

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These figures are outstanding. In spite of your transition from oils to acrylics you are still making a superb job of this.

Stephen.

Offline zavod44

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #31 on: September 03, 2016, 05:21:43 AM »
Why bother switch from oils?

Offline Borsos

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #32 on: September 03, 2016, 07:52:14 AM »
Thanks for looking in and your comments!

Why bother switch from oils?

Now I can just take my palette and some water and paint while the kids are playing - I didn't do that when using turpentine. Generally I have no more headache after a 4hrs. painting session. And besides of that I switched because I am a bad paint mixer. Highlighting by just adding white to the base color or shadowing by adding black doesn't always work and frequently looks odd. Often when using oils  I didn't match the tone I had had in mind. Now I really like those Acrylic color packs for the most important colors (field grey, khaki, horizon blue...) that include a base, highlight and shadow. One can mix these tones down and they simply fit in a matter I never had achieved using oils. One last thing is the covering of oils. If you paint e. g. red piping on a field grey uniform, oils simply are much less visible than acrylics.
"Deux armées aux prises, c'est une grande armée qui se suicide."
Barbusse.
"Ein Berg in Deutschland kann doch einen Berg in Frankreich nicht beleidigen. Oder ein Fluß oder ein Wald oder ein Weizenfeld."
Remarque.

Offline coyotemagic

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #33 on: September 06, 2016, 10:08:49 AM »
My God, those are phenomenal, Andreas!  Can't wait to see them all together!
Cheers,
Bud
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream in the dark recesses of the night awake in the day to find all was vanity. But the dreamers of day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, and make it possible." -T. E. Lawrence

Offline Manni

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #34 on: September 06, 2016, 03:31:45 PM »
Wow, Andreas, I like your painting style. They are not so washed and smooth, they look sharp and pointed, simply great.
Manni
"Ich hab' da mal was vorbereitet.": Jean Pütz
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Offline elanlane

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2016, 06:11:02 AM »
Your conversions of the figures are very good and you have evolved your original concept into reality very effectively. Using artwork posed in the position you want, as you have done, is a good way to make a start with converting. When sculpting figures I ask my wife to take 360 degree photos of me  in the pose I want to recreate, preferably wearing similar clothing. It gives a good idea of the anatomy and the hang of the clothing.
elan13 miniatures
http://elan13.co.uk

Online Edo

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #36 on: September 07, 2016, 05:47:41 PM »
I just can echo what the others have said!
What amazes me most is your ability to change a WW2 subject to a WW1.
It is just amazing! Sculpting is something I sometimes have tried but with less than expected results... :-[
As far as cutting is concerned I have no problems, but then when it comes to rejoin it seems to me I just obtain a Franklestein-like result  :-\
Do you think it would be possible for you to develop a small tutorial?
What is the green putty you use? I generally use Milliput 2 components putty, but it is very hard to model as it seems to prefere to stick to my fingers and not to the figure...

ciao
edo

Offline Syd Solo

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #37 on: September 08, 2016, 09:44:51 AM »
This is a Masterclass! Glasses in this scale - I mean your skill is almost preternatural.
Syd

Offline ALBATROS1234

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #38 on: September 08, 2016, 01:27:03 PM »
superb work on the figures borsos . are you going to scratch build the lvg c.ii?

Offline Borsos

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25h
« Reply #39 on: September 09, 2016, 06:55:37 AM »
Thank you so much for all your very kind words. I really appreciate them!
Your conversions of the figures are very good and you have evolved your original concept into reality very effectively. Using artwork posed in the position you want, as you have done, is a good way to make a start with converting. When sculpting figures I ask my wife to take 360 degree photos of me  in the pose I want to recreate, preferably wearing similar clothing. It gives a good idea of the anatomy and the hang of the clothing.
Thank you very much for sharing your hints! I do own some of your figures and I love all of them.

I just can echo what the others have said!
What amazes me most is your ability to change a WW2 subject to a WW1.
It is just amazing! Sculpting is something I sometimes have tried but with less than expected results... :-[
As far as cutting is concerned I have no problems, but then when it comes to rejoin it seems to me I just obtain a Franklestein-like result  :-\
Do you think it would be possible for you to develop a small tutorial?
What is the green putty you use? I generally use Milliput 2 components putty, but it is very hard to model as it seems to prefere to stick to my fingers and not to the figure...

ciao
edo
Hi Edo, I once also used Milliput and didn't like it at all. For larger parts I use Apoxie sculpt and for small details I use this stuff here: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/55-green-stuff .It's also very very sticky and you always have to wetten your fingers and sculpting tools, but then it works fine. I think I know very well what you mean with Frankenstein-likeness. It is often problematic to cut figures into pieces and to reassemble their arms and legs differently posed. I even got problems with mixing arms and legs from different manufacturers. I've got no general solution for such situations besides of going on playing around with different body parts until the result looks right (oh yes, that sounds Mary Shelley-style...!)  :)
Of course I can offer a tutorial, it's an honor for me if you'd like to know how I convert figures. What exactly would you like to know?

are you going to scratch build the lvg c.ii?

This was actually my plan, but at the moment I have doubts.  I like the look of the LVG C II too much to destroy a scratchbuilt model of this bird and besides of that I am afraid not to finish this project then at all. As Converting the figures already took quite an amount of time (and I didn't finish that job yet), painting takes very long time and I still have to finish the scratchbuilt Vauxhall staff car. Additionaly scratchbuilding  a whole wrecked airplane would take even more time and there are so many kits I'd like to build. I am afraid to have gotten much too ambitious.
Some days ago I ordered another WNW Albatros B II kit. The Albatros C I reconnaissance plane was developed out of that airplane and differs mainly in its front dimensions. If I'd 'smash' these front parts I would "just" have to change pilot and observer's place and to add a gunring to have a crashed Albatros C I. And an Albatros C I would fit well into 1916 and the Somme aerea. E. g. KagOHL 4 used them there. I even didn't exclude the option to built one of my WNW Rolands C II as a shot down plane here. I think to built a kit as a crashed plane is going to be much less work than to scratchbuild it. Since Edo explained me his way to portray damaged canvas covered wings, I wish to try out his technique. It's just so hard to decide which one of these beautiful airplanes I could 'smash', because I don't think I would built this same type soon again as an undestroyed example. And as I already have built a 1/48 Albatros C III, I think I could live with smashing a C I...
Borsos (still thinking and thinking...)
"Deux armées aux prises, c'est une grande armée qui se suicide."
Barbusse.
"Ein Berg in Deutschland kann doch einen Berg in Frankreich nicht beleidigen. Oder ein Fluß oder ein Wald oder ein Weizenfeld."
Remarque.

Online Edo

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #40 on: September 09, 2016, 04:56:58 PM »
Hey borsos!
thank you for the info!
as for the tutorial, il would be great to see the whole process: from original figure, to morphing, basic sculpting (p.es. adding a coat), to painting... as long as others and Des in particular, do agree.
Do you think it could be feasable?
ciao
Edo

Offline lcarroll

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #41 on: September 09, 2016, 11:22:08 PM »
   Having a skill level for figures in the negative spectrum I'd really value and enjoy a basic tutorial as well, go for it Borsos!
Cheers,
Lance

Offline lone modeller

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #42 on: September 11, 2016, 03:17:29 AM »
I echo what Lance has written! I agree too that "wrecking" a good kit would be a real shame - but equally scratch-building it in this scale would mean a couple of year's work!
Whatever you finally choose to do it will be well worth looking at and a build worth following.

Stephen.

Offline RAGIII

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #43 on: September 11, 2016, 03:45:43 AM »
Sorry I am late again in commenting. Beautiful work on painting the figures. I too would enjoy the Tutorial!
RAGIII
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Offline FarEast

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Re: "Ikarus 1916" - Shot down LVG C II, P & M Motorbike (Aviattic), Vauxhall 25hp
« Reply #44 on: September 11, 2016, 07:53:19 AM »
O. K., meanwhile I painted two other guys and gave the sergeant his glasses

Borsos

Incredible Borsos - could you take a photo of the figures from a greater distance and if possible with a 50mm lens? The reason I ask is because I want to see how the layers blend together at a more natural viewing point. Right now they look like oil paintings but I know for a fact that with the eyeball MK1 they will look incredible and the 50mm taken from further distance and then cropped will look amazing!