forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: uncletony on December 30, 2016, 02:24:49 PM
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Obligatory box shots:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8918_zpsmrixtew7.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8923_zpsxcnvn1qd.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8928_zpspf4j2yhn.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8930_zpsbx1p9tw7.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8932_zpseissj9sr.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8933_zpsteqyvmay.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8934_zpsfx6vd84e.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8935_zpsu4dlj2r5.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8936_zpszkddhxge.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8939_zpsvkzhcc98.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/IMG_8925_zpsvpqrlero.jpg)
haven't decided what markings to use, but it will be 99.9% OOB.
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And what a box, if i may add!
A real treasury box.... seems to be wothting the expense and makes me want to reconsider my budget....
Can't wait to see how it will tourn out in tour magic hands Bo.
Ciao
Edo
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Are we there yet?.... lol
Popcorn at the ready...3......2...............1..............GO!!!!!!!!
vB
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Cor!! That should keep you busy :)
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I am very glad to see you are starting on this brilliant kit Bo! Although I lack your skill level I am sure it will help me tackle my kit when the time comes.
RAGIII
PS: OOB? I will believe it when I see it ;D
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Looking forward to this for sure! Thought about getting one myself but that is being way ahead of myself and my skills. Will be watching impatiently...
Cheers
Alistair
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Great choice Bo, looking forward to you working your magic on this gorgeous kit.
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I have to say the content of the box is pretty impressive, Aviattic obviously did a very solid job on this.
Will be following with great interest.
Ondra
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Looking forward to this for sure! Thought about getting one myself but that is being way ahead of myself and my skills. Will be watching impatiently...
Cheers
Alistair
I wouldn't hesitate too long Alistair This is a limited production kit 8) I went for it even though it could be a step or two above the level I build at :D
Like I said I plan to pay close attention to your build Bo!
RAGIII
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Bo! So glad to see you starting this one so soon! I'm very excited about this kit and will be following your tutorial with keen interest.
Cheers,
Bud
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Bo, so glad you're posting your build of this! I ordered mine at the very first but have opted to receive mine when it is totally completed (February, I hope)! I'll be paying close attention to your "tutorial"!
Mark G
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99.9 % out of the box? My money is on the 0.1 % :P
I had ordered the Polish version as well as ordered the datafile. I had bought a couple of books on the Russo Polish war, so come February or later will have a bit of theme. I washed the sprues for the Late Snipe and will do them in Russian colours, but unsure if it had ever been used in that war or perhaps was just a captured plane either from that war or from the British intervention in Russia. Some research to do.
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99.9 % out of the box? My money is on the 0.1 % :P
nope, seriously -- most of the kooky stuff I'd normally do, Ron has already done for us ;)
The cowling panels are admirably thin castings, but I might, maybe be tempted to make them out sheet metal anyway, just cuz that's my thing...
will be starting in on the engine today.
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Looking forward to your magic on this one Bo :)
Terri
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"but I might, maybe be tempted to make them out sheet metal anyway, just cuz that's my thing..."
......... I'm shocked!! Here we go Folks, "Giddy Up", Bo!! :) ;) :) ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Cheers guys, let's start with the motor.
Almost everything needed is in a single baggie, quite easy to identify as it also contain two small cards w/ photos of motors not to mention the large crankcase casting. The more delicate parts having their own baggie within the baggie. When you lay them all out, you get this:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8944_zpsnry3zbki.jpg)
Note -- individual rocker arms, valve springs, spark plugs. Looks daunting, but really isn't bad, I know because -- spoiler -- I've put one together already ;)
Also in the baggie -- a short length of ~.5mm diameter copper wire. It's fun thinking about Richard clipping little two inch pieces of wire off a giant spool and stuffing them into baggies, whistling away, in the middle of the night...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8951_zps0nuzt4ba.jpg)
You'll also need a few parts from this large, oddball casting block which otherwise is mostly comprised of interior parts, and which lives in its own, unlabeled baggie:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8945_zpsixsxgtfl.jpg)
Specifically, you need this tiny part, #14, and you need it right away (you will also need 2x parts 16 & 17 a bit later):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8946_zpsbzorglkq.jpg)
finally, there are some parts from the large brass PE fret. 2x parts 22 & 23 form the ignition harnesses...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8949_zps5fb0pubp.jpg)
...and 12x part 115 are the plug leads. I didn't count, but it looks like there is a generous supply of extras for the carpet monster:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8950_zpslq6iygzp.jpg)
Also Ron has prepared some templates to drill holes for jigs for various operations:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8954_zpsyfosputa.jpg)
I've degreased all the resin parts, starting with a 45 minute bath in the Ultrasonic machine using Dawn(tm) dishwashing liquid, dried and followed with a 15 minute bath in 91% isopropyl alcohol.
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Is it necessary to wash them for that long? Usually I will fill the bathroom sink with warm water and dish washing liquid leave them in there for a bit scrub with a toothbrush and rinse with cold water in the kitchen.
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Is it necessary to wash them for that long? Usually I will fill the bathroom sink with warm water and dish washing liquid leave them in there for a bit scrub with a toothbrush and rinse with cold water in the kitchen.
probably not? better safe than sorry I guess...
anyway, toothbrush scrub is probably equiv to 45 min in the ultrasonic
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By way of disclaimer -- I am mostly following Ron's draft build log which dates to this last autumn. For all I know it will be thoroughly revised before Richard makes it live. So -- stuff I say here isn't necessarily the official word -- just the best of my knowledge...
So anyway, with that out of the way... the first step is a decision point. The engine crankshaft / prop shaft is cast in one piece with the crankcase. Ron suggests optionally replacing it with a metal rod for strength. Now: is this 100% necessary? No -- the cast resin shaft is nearly 2mm in diameter and this is some high quality casting, not Bo Monroe bubbleware. Still -- it is an area of potential weakness, and it would suck big time if the shaft snapped after the engine was mounted etc.
So yes, I am opting to replace the shaft. Rather than brass rod, though, I prefer steel -- looks like the real thing. I made mine from an old rusty nail, suitably polished:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8960_zpsma1xilmq.jpg)
And I want it to turn! So, a bearing is fashioned from 3.0mm OD x 2.00mm ID brass tubing (albion I think):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8963_zpsnb8txhod.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8964_zpsyk5n8oke.jpg)
All that is left is to bore a 3mm hole down the center of the crankcase...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8968_zpsebvog0kk.jpg)
and insert the bearing & shaft. A drop of CA secures the bearing and the nail/ shaft is captured in place:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8967_zps71ppokzk.jpg)
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Nicely done Bo. I'm guessing (since this Build is OOB) the finishing nail came in the box?!? ;) ;D ;) ;D Ah well, you made it to step #1 !
Cheers!
Lance
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Nicely done Bo. I'm guessing (since this Build is OOB) the finishing nail came in the box?!? ;) ;D ;) ;D Ah well, you made it to step #1 !
Cheers!
Lance
heh, yeah, you got me; while Ron suggests optionally replacing the shaft a replacement is not supplied. Again -- I think you could quite likely get away without replacing it-- you'll see if you get this kit that it's quite tough -- but just not a risk I wanted to take.
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Ah, this is so nice to see coming to fruition. Judging by these photos, it appears to be beautiful kit. Unparalleled packaging & presentation. But, OOB?? Time will tell. ;D
Steve
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OOB + a rusty nail where deemed necessary!
Got my popcorn and following closely.
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One of the reasons I love this forum for is, that it is a great place to improve my english. Today I have finally learned what OOB stands for: parts in the kit + a rusty nail. :D
Great to see you starting this kit, Bo, will be following with great interest!
Cheers
Ondra
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You guys are too funny ;D. Nice use of a rusty nail Bo, love your ingenuity.
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So you made it through the parts introduction before adding your nail and brass tube, then drilling a 3mm hole to accept the rotating shaft assembly. I am proud of you Bo 8) As always terrific work!
RAGIII
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Cheers guys :)
Next step is removing the casting nub at the back of the crankcase. This is necessary for fitting part 26D 26A.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8969_zps0dkseeol.jpg)
Many ways to accomplish this, including careful carving, easiest though is to drill it out with a 3.5mm drill bit. the result should be a "U" shaped hole:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8970_zpsohnblfeo.jpg)
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Next, it's time to deal with that pesky little part 14 shown earlier. The two center nubs at near the front of the crankcase should be drilled out with a
5.5mm 0.55mm drill bit.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8972_zpsntt7bqpy.jpg)
like so:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8973_zpsju9dehgb.jpg)
it's hard to do -- as you can see I was a little off, but it will look ok when assembled. If you are not comfortable drilling these you could simply glue part 14 on or leave it off altogether -- it's a small plumbing detail.
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Possibly the most challenging step in the entire engine build -- the top of that teeny part 14 should also be drilled out with a .55mm drill bit, this to accomodate the copper wire "oil lines" which are fitted later:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8977_zpsopgesnfy.jpg)
here it is assembled (leaning backwards in the dry fit photo, to be adjusted):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/towerthingy2_zpsdf9nuztr.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/towerthingy3_zpsamtn5oge.jpg)
Again, I'm following Ron's lead here but there are other ways to skin this cat depending on your preferences, tools and skills. Study the pictures to understand what these parts are supposed to represent and work from there.
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It would be hard to do with a 5.5mm drill. I reckon I'd use something much smaller. :)
Gold star to Justin for paying attention. .55mm. :-[
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Excellent Bo!
Following along....
Guy
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On to the cylinders.
First, Ron recommends drilling a large shallow hole in the center of each cylinder bolt plate on the crankcase. The purpose is to help ensure the cylinders sit level & flush with the case. Now, this is not entirely necessary -- I can assure you these have been built skipping this step by both me & Ron and they were "fine" -- but it is helpful.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8982_zpsi1n38vve.jpg)
Now, note the order of the cylinder pairs -- this photo shows how it goes together. #9 is rearmost, #7, frontmost. Note too that the exhaust side ports have square holes.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8984_zpsinsgt7mv.jpg)
Take your time separating the cylinders from the casting block -- neatness counts here! It might be time to finally replace that dull, bent razor saw blade that you've had out on your bench for the last 4 years with a fresh one.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8986_zpseggq3jg3.jpg)
Like the crankcase, the bottoms of the cylinders can be drilled with shallow holes. This makes leveling them easier -- no material in the middle to remove which means they are less likely to get rounded off when you sand them.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8989_zpsft23cdbi.jpg)
Note that you should open up the space between the cylinders below the jackets. I use a simple tool that I made to hold several saw blades together (in prev photo), this way I can cut notches of precise widths. The bow sanding tool is used to clean up the work:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8992_zps7fcs5h8w.jpg)
First dry fit is pretty good! It's worth spending time getting the cylinders as perfectly aligned and level as possible, this will make your life easier later...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8994_zpseikpri5p.jpg)
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Bo, many thanks for your very detailed build notes. This will be an immeasurable help to us neophytes when we attempt this build!
Mark G 8)
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A big thank you, Bo, for this build-log. I told Richard that I'd be happy to wait for mine until the new decals have arrived, but when it does come I'll find your advice/guidance invaluable.
Just one quick peripheral question. One of the photos shows the saw you use to remove resin pieces from their plug/base. What make is that? I'm fed up with nearly hacking my fingers off using things that I think might just do.
Best wishes
Nigel
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RB Productions - they are brilliant! Get the finest tooth count you can find ;)
Many thanks, Justin.
Best wishes
Nigel
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RB Productions - they are brilliant! Get the finest tooth count you can find ;)
Yup.
As for the grade, in general I agree, but for this particular job the coarser "fine" blade is much better than the very high tooth count "ultra fine" which cuts so slowly that it is harder to keep it from wandering.
I buy them in bulk. Usually I have the ultra fine out on the bench, and it works quite well on brass too. They do get dull and they do get bent, so don't expect one blade to last forever.
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Thanks, Bo.
Best wishes
Nigel
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If I follow this I think I am going to end up buying one
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I'm going to enjoy watching this build. I have a feeling it's going to be a bit special
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cheers people :)
Next step, again, optional but recommended by Ron, is to drill out the holes on the cylinders where the ignition harness attaches to each pair of cylinders. You could skip this step and simply glue the PE harness directly to the cylinders and it would probably stay attached just fine.
PE part 23, which forms the back of the harness is shown. It has three little eyelets of about .5mm hole diameter. Ron suggests using Master Club resin bolts -- a fine option -- I am choosing Scale Hardware brass rivets instead. Holes -- one on each cylinder pair, just below the spark plug sockets -- shown drilled to .5mm diameter to a depth of 3mm the length of my rivets.)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8998_zpsmkg1hmhr.jpg)
Here is basically how it all goes together, although note the harness is pointing the wrong way! (skinny end points to the front of the engine):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_8999_zpshof51c2e.jpg)
At this point the cylinder jackets are given a coat of Mr. Surfacer and set aside...
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*((*&^)&&*&*.....missed out on this one...another jewel in the making.
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Here is the next bunch of parts -- they form the rear of the engine, namely the rear main cover (26A), magneto takeoff / gear tower(26D) & base (26B), oil pump (26C) , water pump (12) & camshaft bevel gear housing (11):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9002_zpstmpf7ftp.jpg)
Here they are, cut out & cleaned up in the order -- but not necessarily orientation -- that they go together:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9004_zpspuxxuzve.jpg)
you'll want to run a .9mm drill in the top of the gear tower shaft (26D) to make sure the bevel gear housing fits nicely into it. Similarly, run a 2mm drill in the flange of the bevel gear housing (11) to ensure the camshaft will mate nicely. In both operations you will probably remove very little material...
The little "wings" on part 26A are supposed to be at an angle when viewed from above. Meanwhile, part 26B is supposed to be perfectly flat (it might fight you in this regard)
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Thanks for this build log Bo, much better than watching a movie. Really enjoying your rendition of this beautiful kit.
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Great job thus far bo. And I am sure an oob build will satiate your need to get something completed. I can relate I assure you in the years I've been back building models I have only completed a handful compared to all of the unfinished builds which I have either lost interest temporarily, gotten to a problem which will have to fester until a solution dawns on me or got overwhelmed with ams from overdetailing. It is however quite nice to just crank one out time to time. As you mentioned much of the detailing has been done with this ground breaking kit which I have covered for some time. Hopefully there will be some left by the time I can justify dropping that kind of cash on a kit. Of course it from looking at pics it seems well worth it
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Great to see this. I think, now I want one, too.
Can you tell me if the decals of the wing camo is included or should it be handpainted by the coustomer?
Bye,
Manni
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Great to see this. I think, now I want one, too.
Can you tell me if the decals of the wing camo is included or should it be handpainted by the coustomer?
Bye,
Manni
Italian wing (and tail feather) camo is included
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Great to see this. I think, now I want one, too.
Can you tell me if the decals of the wing camo is included or should it be handpainted by the coustomer?
Bye,
Manni
per previous, yes wing camo:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9006_zpsctlg20ng.jpg)
but also! wood grain (see above) linen and cookie cutter linen for all flying surfaces
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9007_zpse2c5k9lq.jpg)
but wait! there's more! custom nail pattern decals by HGW -- not just rows of nails, but ready to apply!!
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9008_zpsbkw3cq2d.jpg)
Of course, markings etc -- these are what are "holding up the show" due to QC issues:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9010_zpssnbkbyak.jpg)
oh, and not shown -- oops -- a complete separate sheet of custom italian instrument decals
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Hi Bo - are the instrument decals already sent out or are they part of the decals being redone? I did not see them in my kit but maybe I overlooked....
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Wow, thank you, Bo!
Now I will get it for my birthday!!!Muharharhar
Manni
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Hi Bo - are the instrument decals already sent out or are they part of the decals being redone? I did not see them in my kit but maybe I overlooked....
the instrument decals are separate and unaffected by the reprint issue. You should have them. Also an acetate sheet with printed windscreens:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9011_zpstx1vvxil.jpg)
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Oh Drool! can't wait for mine to arrive
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Wow - the decals are extraordinary - so comprehensive. But I'm confused - yours is the Polish version but the kit includes all the Italian version decals as well? Including those for the cover art on the Italian version box? Or did you get these as an addition to give you options as to which you'd build? Just interested...
The shape of that fuselage is incredible BTW. I don't think I've seen it photographed from that angle and it really shows the remarkable lines.
Cheers
Alistair
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I'm really enjoying this so far :)
Terri
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Hi Bo - are the instrument decals already sent out or are they part of the decals being redone? I did not see them in my kit but maybe I overlooked....
the instrument decals are separate and unaffected by the reprint issue. You should have them. Also an acetate sheet with printed windscreens:
Yes - thankya - found them in one of the bags containing resin parts (had been looking in the big bag 'o decals :) )
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But I'm confused - yours is the Polish version but the kit includes all the Italian version decals as well? Including those for the cover art on the Italian version box?
Oops! -- thanks for pointing that out. Wouldn't want people to be disappointed to "only" get decals for one or the other. In fact I have both versions, although only one "official" boxing which is the Polish version as pictured. Richard has been sending me bits while this kit was taking shape -- the final bits to complete the second one arriving last week along with the complete Polish boxing. I don't have an Italian box yet, otherwise I would've photographed it. (I have a pretty good idea of what it looks like though ;) )
Besides the decals, the Polish boxing contains different machine guns.
I haven't decided yet whether this build will be Italian or Polish -- though I think I'm leaning towards one of the more basic Italian service schemes... I love the dark wood and that crazy camo.
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The cylinders were primed with Alclad Black microfiller on top of the Mr. Surfacer. Before priming I filled most of the assembly point holes with liquid mask to keep them from getting too gunked up with paint. I'll put on the light color coat, though, without the masks in place to ensure nice edges.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/file_zps6ktrdvlg.jpg)
I've assembled the cylinders and some of the parts that make up the back of the engine. Part 26A and 26B form a shelf that the mags sit on. I'll paint this entire subassembly before moving on.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/file_zps81qkcpt6.jpg)
Oh, I also added a couple of bolt details (master club) to the rear bottom of the engine. These were on an early version of the kit motor I recieved from Ron but are no longer there -- no idea why not, and I might be sorry later -- but I copied them.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/file_zpsfrytlaqj.jpg)
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totally not what i meant. only meant that i also for the joy of building rarely complete stuff. i think i was quite misunderstood....sorry for that
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Lovin' it, Bo! BTW, do you have a clue as to when the pdf instructions will be available for download? No matter, I've now got your tutorial to go by.
Cheers,
Bud
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BTW, do you have a clue as to when the pdf instructions will be available for download?
All I know is this:
The build PDF guide will be posted on the website for customers to download and keep very soon.
:)
It did occur to me that this log might be a useful stopgap, and that's part of the reason why I am choosing to build this OOB.
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A lick o' paint on the short block. Cylinder jackets were black, the unjacketed portions of the cylinders seemed to have been left unpainted steel. The crackcase was natural aluminum...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9031_zpsklmsj9b0.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9032_zpsqllk9vic.jpg)
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Looking real good bo!
About the bolts for some reason they weared out faster in the mold since they are pulled out so the option you did is better to replace them. Som timeschoices have to be made in how the mold is made to get the best result and i found out this was it.
Realy its strange to c this kit get build witch I have worked on for 3 years by some one els, actualy its a honor and I thank all you guys for the great comments and support, and hope all you guys enoy the build.
I will start mine soon as wel when i have the time and finaly build it completly myself with decals and paint.
Regards Ron
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That paint effect on the block is great - lick o' paint seems a little unlikely to a novice - how do you achieve that?
Bought a Polish version BTW (some Christmas cash burning a hole in my pocket) - due to your log, with thanks to you, Richard and Ron! :)
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Hi Alistair, glad you are inspired to try this kit, I think you will enjoy the experience.
As for how I painted the engine -- I don't really have a recipe -- I just sort of go at it until I'm happy with it. I can tell you that I started by painting the entire thing with Alclad black microfiiler, then painted the cylinders with a mix of german grey & nato black; there might have been a coat of smoke in there. I next painted the "steel" with alclad chrome followed by various filters which I honestly don't what or in what order. probably hot metal sepia and maybe alclad smoke? I masked and painted the crankcase next, think I started with semi matte aluminum, maybe dark aluminum probably one or two other filters. I did a little dry brushing with tamiya flat aluminum and a wash or two of dirty turps. It all took maybe an hour?
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Thanks Bo
It'll be a long while before I start on this - I have a lot of learning to do first including those paint techniques which are, I guess, second nature to you. The kit doesn't even ship until March. But I'll keep looking in here and at other logs and plug away at the Snipe and other builds.
Cheers
Alistair
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Bo, you are a true artist. I thoroughly enjoy your updates, and am quite amused by your descriptions of how you managed to pull off your paint jobs...a bit of this, some of that...whatever it took to get where you wanted it to go. And I'm glad I'm not alone in trying to remember all of the exact steps, and in what order it took ;-) great work, sir!
Cheers,
Gary
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cheers all,
I missed a step when prepping the block. The hexagonal bosses above the middle motor mounts are supposed to be drilled out to accept the weird scoop-like crankcase breathers. Best to do this before you paint things! The holes are supposed to be 1mm diameter, and it is pretty hard to accomplish this without defacing the hexagon...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9035_zps8xoydojm.jpg)
The breathers themselves are on that large, oddball casting block referred to earlier. They are parts 16 & 17, 2x each. 16 goes on the starboard (exhaust) side, 17 on the port (intake) side. The scoops face forward. Refer to the pics in the manual and walkaround for guidance.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9041_zpsdhjkwp00.jpg)
I decided to fashion screens for the breathers as an analog for the original -- admittedly ludicrously overscale but it gives an impression, and I'm an impressionist modeller :)
These are made from discarded radiator mesh from a D.VII radiator that went south... punched out with a 2mm punch....
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9038_zpslob29drd.jpg)
installed and painted...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9043_zpsurftuvvs.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9046_zpsh1mg4vik.jpg)
NOTE TO THOSE FOLLOWING ALONG LATER the intake side breathers should be installed facing aft, not as in the pictures below. Check your fit with the carburetor as you proceed.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9045_zpshsuhf9u5.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9047_zps8r3b9k45.jpg)
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99% OOB? Well I think that we have already passed that point so now you can really go to town on it……
A wonderfully impressive kit being assembled and upgraded by a master craftsman. A joy to follow.
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cheers guys -- finishing up the valve gear and the accessory drive/ bevel gear tower...
these illustrations may be useful:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/rear%20tower_zpsialuyple.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/valvegear1_zpso0nyoecd.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/rocker_arms_zpsp84zeslt.jpg)
and here is what the complete gear train looks like assembled:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9049_zpsbgwaxfhv.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9050_zpsfv9pch38.jpg)
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prepping the camshaft
Once again two little nubs should be drilled out to .55mm. Again this is to fit the oil lines at the front of the engine, which will be fabricated soon...
This is a tricky step, take you time, and if it is beyond your skill set, don't panic, just skip it, the lines can be simply glued on or omitted entirely.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9053_zpsziecfmsu.jpg)
I find cutting the camshaft off the casting block one of the more challenging removal operations -- it really helps if the part is absolutely straight. If not, a little hot water and a square surface will put it right in a hurry.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9057_zpsppoamr5e.jpg)
The bottom of the camshaft doesn't really show, but it should look more or less like this when it's all cleaned up:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9059_zpsvtypakec.jpg)
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This is brilliant! A complete guide unfolding. Thanks Bo - I can't wait to see these parts in reality. :)
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camshaft painted; contact areas scraped so epoxy will bond; and glued in place...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9060_zpsevkvtuzu.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9064_zps02qayoox.jpg)
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Great stuff Bo 8)
I Agree!
RAGIII
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Looking forward to your update. Hoping for your safe travel.
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This is brilliant! A complete guide unfolding. Thanks Bo - I can't wait to see these parts in reality. :)
[/quote
Big Ditto, Thanks Bo and likewise waiting for mine to arrive.
Ed]
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Sorry to hear you are stranded in Denver but their are worse places! I remember that Jenny from last years trip to Montana. I also remember a couple of good craft beer bar/eating establishments 8)
RAGIII
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Great stuff, as always. (not the stranded part, but the rest) ;)
Steve
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All looking rather splendid, Bo! ;)
More!!!
vB
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valve gear installed:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9068_zpsitpdc2yq.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9078_zpsqo4ywy8q.jpg)
cam gear tower & h2o pump installed:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9071_zpsftsp8u2b.jpg)
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Nice one Bo!
Sorry to hear about your trials and tribulations.. :P
Guy
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Lovely work on the engine (despite all the external odds).
Thank you, Bo, for showing this tutorial, it will be very helpful when I will start my Balilla build (I am looking forward to it).
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Beautiful engine Bo. You actually came fairly close to OOB ;D So far anyway!
RAGIII
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Your engine looks like real.
Adam.
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I'll bet you were pleased to get back to boring routine …. and an excellent model engine!
Stephen.
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Szymon Grzywocz just reminded me which I've been meaning to point out -- the breathers on the intake side apparently should face backwards. I followed Ron's (draft) build and placed them all facing forwards, but the museum examples do not seem to bear this out.
Too late to fix on my build, and actually, what difference it makes, which way they face, in actual practice I can't imagine (they are simply breathers, not scoops), but...
(http://www.aircraftengine.cz/Almenno%20San%20Bartolomeo/slides/Breda%20SPA%206A%20(3).jpg)
(http://www.aircraftengine.cz/Almenno%20San%20Bartolomeo/slides/Breda%20SPA%206A%20(2).jpg)
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On to the ignition system...
first, the magnetos -- need to be defaced by drilling .3mm holes @ aprox 45° angle at each lead connection:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9089_zpsomcpygzx.jpg)
magneto painted up and wired with .2mm modelkasten rigging stuff:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9093_zps7htbxhui.jpg)
Now super important-- note that there are "2 each" of PE parts 22 & 23 -- but! they are not interchangeable -- they are handed
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9098_zpskvwju10u.jpg)
part 23 of each side need to be bent into tapering U channel as shown:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9102_zps05mdlafn.jpg)
after blackening the brass, wires fed thru harness:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9105_zpsaqt2jghz.jpg)
All assembled, inc spark plugs and spark plug connectors at the end of the wires:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9111_zpsf7lr3ugx.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9116_zpsflj3abml.jpg)
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Super wiring Bo,
How do you attach the wiring to the plugs so neatly? It's always something that has me stumped ???
Guy
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The wiring harness, tubes, and magnetos are all awesome as usual Bo.
RAGIII
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Outstanding Bo, your engine is alive with detail.
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That ignition harness from magnetos to plug terminals is about as good as it gets, simply beautiful! Really enjoying your progression on this Build Bo, great work! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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cheers guys :)
Moving over to the ignition wiring on the exhaust side, which I will present in a little more detail. First, however, part 15, the pipe that connects the water pump to the cylinder jackets, must be cut out, cleaned up, and installed:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9119_zpsadyv36vc.jpg)
like so:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9143_zpsrkg1nnej.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9147_zpss1rujwuu.jpg)
Here is my method for assembling the wiring harness. Start by laying out the magneto and the harness tube
(PE part 23) roughly as they sit on the engine, but note the tube is upside-down at this point. Run the first two wires thru the forward most small holes in PE part 23 and attach to the topmost magneto points. Leave a good 20mm of slack exiting the tube for each lead:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9122_zps30uck7hp.jpg)
next, wire up the next highest pair of points on the magneto, same as before:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9123_zpsmwdxzvmm.jpg)
and finally the bottom two points. Note that one wire, the longest, simply exits out the front of the tube:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9124_zpsqpibey9a.jpg)
now is a good time to paint the magneto connectors:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9125_zpsgtrdvzwi.jpg)
Press the wires down into the tube channel and glue in place with a few drops of CA:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9126_zpsrwakmntr.jpg)
Now you can flip the tube, and paint it:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9127_zpsg8dd7juy.jpg)
The back of the tube (part 22) can now be glued on. I used several dollops of epoxy...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9129_zpsue8msdik.jpg)
...weighted down. In 15 minutes or so it'll will be ready to continue:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9130_zpsusmnud7m.jpg)
Now the leads are trimmed to ~12mm as measured from where they exit the tube:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9131_zpshsgxor45.jpg)
The spark plug connector ends should be carefully reamed out to .35mm:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9133_zpsllqs7sxe.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9136_zpsg1hmiowm.jpg)
Now the connectors can be CA glued to the leads. Just a drop'll do ya; be careful not to plug up the hole with CA:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9139_zpssglrib7h.jpg)
Spark plugs are painted while still on the casting block and set aside...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9141_zps9vhymjsx.jpg)
Now we're ready to install the harness. First, though, ream the spark plug holes in the block with a .9mm drill bit to clear out any paint and ensure an easy fit. Get your rivets ready (or whatever you are using to pin the harness in place):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9151_zpsn25gcwrq.jpg)
I like to use epoxy for this, and let it set 3-5 minutes after applying drops in the holes before continuing. At that point it is starting to 'kick' and is very sticky, vs. simply greasy as it is when freshly mixed:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9153_zpsemrwzjee.jpg)
Once the harness is cured in place, the magneto goes in. Again, same deal -- let the epoxy start to cure a bit and you will have to spend much less time holding parts together, avoid accidentally slobbering the good side in glue, etc (sorry wrong photo):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9154_zps7egwhv4k.jpg)
Next the plugs go in. I use CA, a small drop on the butt of the plug, shove it into the socket, and then lock it into place with a tiny bit more applied underneath:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9155_zpsmcfgtcfn.jpg)
Finally, leads attached to plugs and a little touch up here and there:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9159_zpsjsxzplbm.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9164_zpsz3bfu65u.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9165_zpstvolzvva.jpg)
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Intake manifold/ carburettor
here are the parts:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9169_zps7mtlvfln.jpg)\\
cleaned up:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9171_zpsuo5scbmu.jpg)
assembled:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9172_zpshuvaahef.jpg)
painted/ fixed to motor:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9177_zps4ifcmnao.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9178_zpso1di6mpu.jpg)
Two things to note:
1) In Ron's [DRAFT] build log, he goes to elaborate lengths drilling and pinning all of the above parts together for extra strength. An admirable exercise in craftsmanship, but of dubious utility imo -- simply epoxied together the intake assembly is quite strong.
2) I removed the wrong-facing crankcase breathers from the intake side. These parts seem to have been added to the model as a bit of an afterthought any way, and don't really fit well with the carburettor in place -- regardless of which way they face. I will be replacing them with simple round caps as sometimes seen in photos.
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Excellent step by step on the ignition wiring assembly. Thanks! Your engine is really taking shape and looks outstanding!
RAGIII
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Great stuff Bo :)
Terri
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What a superb tutorial. I cannot think why anyone can now say they do not know how to do it…. I expect to see this level of achievement form all of the rest of you from now on….!
Stephen.
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As always, I love the step by step process & seeing all the pars come to life in color.
Steve
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Lovely!
Guy
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So on to the oil pipes that feed the camshaft & valve train. Ron has supplied a template to create a jig for bending the wires, but I have a slightly different approach. My jig is made of of 2mm styrene, drilled all the way through so you can flip it and use other side for a mirror image.
Annealed copper wire, ~.5mm is fed into the top hole...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9180_zpsjoqs4ukb.jpg)
... and bent over 90 degrees.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9181_zpswkxfxhbt.jpg)
Next, a HSS .5mm drill bit is inserted into the next hole and used as mandrel, the wire being bent 90° perdendicular to the first bend:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9182_zpshjukiqrp.jpg)
Then a 2mm punch is inserted and likewise used as mandrel; the wire being bent back around it in the opposite direction. (A 2mm drill bit would also work, as would brass tube, etc.):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9183_zps2cyglvvz.jpg)
Finally another .5mm drill bit is inserted into the last hole and the wire bent back around it; the desired shape is a straight run with a half-circle chicane at the top:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9184_zpsxcoqf2ps.jpg)
result:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9185_zpsywm6ezlj.jpg)
Installed in place:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9186_zps1zbf5g1k.jpg)
Installation tip: The copper "pipes" are meant to fit between the holes in the front of the camshaft and the top of the valve dohickey which is part 14. Start by installing part 14 in the block, shove it down as far as it will go, but do not glue it yet. Now trim the copper "pipes" to length, so that they are just exactly flush with top of part 14. Now epoxy the wires to the respective holes in the camshaft only. Wait 5 minutes, allowing the epoxy to set up. Now gently jiggle part 14 upwards while simultaneously allowing the bottom ends of the copper "pipes" to settle into the holes in the top of part 14. Once everything is lined up nicely, lock part 14 and the pipes with a drop of CA.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9187_zpspqnabhrl.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9188_zpsetlyuvvp.jpg)
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WOW, what a great tutorial on building WWI aircraft in general! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this, Bo!
Mark G
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Mental! :o
vB
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I am loving this tutorial!
RAGIII
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Yes, the more I look into this thread the less I miss the to-appear-on-the-website pdf with the assembly instruction. :-)
Thanks, Bo for your efforts to bring us the Balilla construction in a so detailed master-class way.
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It's all just so beautifully done!
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Cheers Guys & Gal :)
Exhaust Pipes
This next step may seem a little intimidating. In fact I was planning a workaround myself, but figured I would at least attempt "the official" way to do this first before presenting an alternative.
Ok, so the exhaust pipes are cast as solid rods. It's up to the modeler to cut the "baloney" ends and drill them out. :o I asked Richard why they designed them this way, and he explained that it was necessary in order the successfully cast the base with its all-critical angle:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9191_zpssapgdtxv.jpg)
So we need to make a drilling jig in order to hollow these guys out. I started with a pile of 2mm styrene blocks, stacked and glued together, 5 in all, so it's 10mm tall:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9190_zpsxz9ngl6j.jpg)
Next, I bored a 1.6mm hole all the way through. Then I followed that hole with a 2mm bit, this time only boring about halfway. So the result is like this in cross-section:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/jiggy_zpsl26yv2r0.gif)
Now a bushing made from a short section of 1.6mm brass tubing is inserted into the narrow end, and CA'ed in place. This will serve as a snug guide for a 1.4mm drill bit:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9193_zps7essh5jy.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9195_zpsrlf71vqo.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9196_zps35sra2lw.jpg)
Next the exhaust pipes are cut from the casting block, and the ends carefully trimmed and sanded to the proper "baloney-cut" profile:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9197_zpsq6liwans.jpg)
Now, the exhaust pipe is inserted into the jig, and the bit given a few turns...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9199_zpsehjzulag.jpg)
...viola! (oboe! french horn!) -- yeah, I know, same jokes, need new material:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9198_zpsvidq1kuo.jpg)
It's so easy I kept going -- you only need 6; I did 9 or 10 just to see if one would come out wrecked. They all passed...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9200_zpsujcsnrdv.jpg)
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What an engine! just awesome!
Borsos
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Wow Bo, simple but very elegant way to bore out these exhaust stacks. Going in the file for future use.
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Exhaust pipes installed, and this closes out this chapter of the build...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9210_zps2pswchwn.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9211_zpsiqvbzidq.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9212_zpsvlo3vlnx.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9214_zpsw0juxsug.jpg)
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Bo, your ingenuity is just great! that jig you made is so simple yet I had never thought of it nor I would be able enough to build one!
but what really impresses me this time is the shade of the exhaust: just wondeerful! so far better than my rust tone: what did you use?
thank you for the info and thank you for thaking the time of showing us all the procedures you use for this fantastic build!
ciao
edo
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Wow, Bo!
The engine looks great. I love the colour of the exhaust pipes. May I ask, how you have achieved this look?
Bye,Manni
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Wow, Bo!
The engine looks great. I love the colour of the exhaust pipes. May I ask, how you have achieved this look?
Bye,Manni
As stated previously, the exhausts are beautifully finished. Looking forward to the next chapter of this exciting/informative build.
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Bo, you make these things seem so simple. Why didn't I think of something like this years ago? Simple answer, I am not Bo!
RAGIII
PS: Like the others I find the painting of those exhaust pipes very impressive!
RAGIII
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Bo,
Your work/artistry is nothing short of amazing my old friend. Looking forward to the next installment.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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You`re a true artist Bo, this is going to be the most super detailed Balilla model built OOB ;)
Keep up the good work - it`s such a pleasure to follow your threads!
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:) :) :)
Terri
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There's always a simple solution - it just takes genius to find it ;D
Guy
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What amazes me is folks like Bo, Des, and many others turn round such craftsmanship in so little time.
The exhaust drilling jig, for example, is such a simple idea yet it would probably take me longer just to think about how to do that, than it took Bo to build it, drill, paint and attach the exhausts!!
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Thanks guys! :)
While it's fun to get all the credit, I must point out that the drilling jig is the specified method in the instructions as the way to accomplish this. In fact I was quite dubious that it would work satisfactorily but decided to try it before casting about for a substitute -- that was meant to be the point of the post (I actually ordered the correct diameter brass tubing to replace the stubs). Ron made the example jig from a brass billet; my small contribution is showing how it can be made from simpler stuff most modelers might have on hand.
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What can I add Bo? This is by far the most impressive tutorial that I have read - and there are some truly impressive tutorials on this site. It just gets better with each post.
Stephen.
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Thanks guys! :)
While it's fun to get all the credit, I must point out that the drilling jig is the specified method in the instructions as the way to accomplish this. In fact I was quite dubious that it would work satisfactorily but decided to try it before casting about for a substitute -- that was meant to be the point of the post (I actually ordered the correct diameter brass tubing to replace the stubs). Ron made the example jig from a brass billet; my small contribution is showing how it can be made from simpler stuff most modelers might have on hand.
True its a real simple methode and yours is the same priceble but easy to make I made it on my lathe and know that not every one has that so thanks for showing this methode.
Want to point out also that you cut the pipes of at the angel and then drilling it, works fine whit the drills you use got the same ones they are real sharp but many modelers have the normal HSS drills so it might be wise to keep it cut it 90 degrees and then drill it to prevent the drill from slipping and then sand the angel on when the drilling is complete
Ron
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Want to point out also that you cut the pipes of at the angel and then drilling it, works fine whit the drills you use got the same ones they are real sharp but many modelers have the normal HSS drills so it might be wise to keep it cut it 90 degrees and then drill it to prevent the drill from slipping and then sand the angel on when the drilling is complete
This is a good point -- I am using very sharp carbide bits (Drill Bits Unlimited); I tried it both ways and I found cutting first was much easier -- it was hard to make out the exact angle to cut the pipe when boring first. However, as Ron says, if you are using HSS bits it might be easier to cut the angle after boring them out.
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On to the fuselage
The next chapter is all about prepping the fuselage and fitting the fuel tank.
Here are the parts needed -- the fuselage in two parts and the contents of the baggie that contains the card with fuel tank images. (You can set aside the upper part of the fuselage for now -- it won't be needed for quite a while)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9217_zpsro73tmn3.jpg)
The fuselage needs some trimming and prep. The trimming required at the tail end should be obvious, but the nose end is a little more involved. When you cut off the casting block from the nose, you are left with something like this:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9218_zpsf42hdm2q.jpg)
This actually somewhat closely resembles what you see when the radiator is removed from the real thing, and I think maybe at one time that was as far as Ron was going to go -- but it turns out they have provided a much more realistic PE part... :
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9219_zpss50trild.jpg)
(bent to shape)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9220_zpsf6edhoto.jpg)
... which requires a bit of fiddling to fit:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9223_zpsgoksqrz6.jpg)
Basically, you need to trim the nose back a bit further, so that it is ~9.1mm from the second former. And you need to thin it a little bit to get the PE part to fit. As you can see, I went a little too far and had to build the nose back up with some strips of styrene. At any rate it's mostly a game of fit'n'try until it all goes together nicely...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9225_zpsjhqk6miu.jpg)
The trenches visible in the photos have since been filled in with SupaFilla and smoothed over...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9226_zpscac2kbyl.jpg)
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At this point you also want to open up all the holes in the fuselage.
The vertical slots next to the cockpit should be 1mm wide x 8mm tall. I am advised that these are corrected on second run castings, but on first run castings, they will need to be enlarged as they are only about 6.75mm tall.
The hole near the nose should be reamed out to 3.9mm.
You'll find round rectangles embossed on either side of the fuselage for the engine compartment vents; these should be opened up. The width of these slots is 2.5mm.
You'll also want to ensure the holes for the stainless steel lower wing pins are large enough -- the pins are 1mm in diameter. You don't want to be fighting this when the fuselage is alll painted and decalled!
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9230_zpsxkecogp5.jpg)
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Temporarily leaving the reservation.
To understand where I am going next (yes, a little south of OOB) it is important to understand a couple of things:
Thing 1: The fuel tank on the original aircraft was suspended in a cavity in the bottom of the airplane. A fragment from Juanita Franzi's illustration tells the story:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/ANSA1014_zpsgujwguih.jpg)
The default method of representing the bottom of the fuel tank is with a PE appliqué on the bottom of the fuselage. Meanwhile a resin part represents the internal side of the tank:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9231_zpskj5q0wzg.jpg)
Thing 2: Painting the interior of the fuselage is going to be difficult. It's hard to spray paint into a hole, do wood grain, etc. Decals are an option, but still, really hard to get a great finish on the interior walls and floors with it already partially closed up.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9233_zps617s957h.jpg)
Ergo...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9234_zpshdnqdywj.jpg)
... I've cut apart the fuselage sides.
Which revealed something I personally found remarkable: the 1mm holes for the wing spars go all the way thru the castings(!) Oh and yes, perfectly straight, to boot. How in the hell did Ron do this? Anyway, this fact greatly simplifies my problem of working out how to put this all back together!
I've bored these holes out to 1.3mm, and fitted brass tubes inside:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9238_zpszqqk7tlr.jpg)
so the whole thing falls back together...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9237_zpshkifd6ak.jpg)
oh, and the wings fit positively:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9236_zps35dalxvw.jpg)
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So -- and I need to underline this -- the "default" PE appliqué method of representing the fuel tank is one "official" way to do things, but Aviattic have provided parts to model the tank in a more realistic fashion if desired. (In particular, full length support straps for the "exposed" tank, vs. segments)
I am deviating from the official build guide in splitting the fuselage, though. This is definitely not in the instructions!
fuel tank cut out
Area for the fuel tank brutally cut out:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9240_zpsxg4noq07.jpg)
approximation of fuel tank -- resin & PE -- but will require 1mm wafer to get to correct height:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9241_zpsrgqz7g9e.jpg)
basic idea of how it will sit in the fuselage (meanwhile, floor seam has been mended with styrene)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9242_zpscpibmuw9.jpg)
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Not so OOB ;D but it's an amazing work! :)
I'm saving all pages as a pdf for reference.
I'm looking forward to start mine, and the fuel tank mod is tempting me ::)
Bye
Andrew
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Not so OOB ;D but it's an amazing work! :)
Actually, when you think about it, it still counts as OOB if I cut it apart and then glue it back together again! Right? :)
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Not so OOB ;D but it's an amazing work! :)
Actually, when you think about it, it still counts as OOB if I cut it apart and then glue it back together again! Right? :)
yeah... you are just messing with what's inside the box :o ;D
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I rather like Bo messing around with what is in the box…. am waiting in anticipation for more!
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Fuel Tank
tank height is padded with 1mm wafer (actually two .5mm panels -- I didn't have any 1mm styrene sheet):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9244_zps1do1krq6.jpg)
shallow holes drilled into wafer to aid gluing in upcoming step when PE panel is applied:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9245_zpscamozaft.jpg)
meanwhile, 2x parts F1 are fitted into .9mm holes in bump on top of tank...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9246_zpsu3d1jger.jpg)
And you need to cut out the exquisite floor piece, H1 now. Once cut from the block and cleaned up, it should look like this:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9249_zps2bt65vgj.jpg)
We need to fit the fuel tank temporarily into the fuselage:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9250_zpsfq1vdwfc.jpg)
...and set the floor piece on top of it...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9251_zpsa3upkxoc.jpg)
... in order to mark the position of the large holes, which is done with a 2.5mm bit, by gently turning just a few times.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9252_zpse6a7zlnv.jpg)
At the positions just marked, 1.8mm holes are drilled to just .5mm depth:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9253_zpsotuzkpnr.jpg)
...and 2x parts F3 glued in:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9257_zpsedl75hge.jpg)
The PE "appliqué" is glued on the bottom of the tank:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9255_zpsdzqvclzj.jpg)
And finally the resin sump part F2 is added to the bottom of the tank:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9256_zpsfuntgsvd.jpg)
I'll add the straps and buckles, which are provided as PE parts, when I get closer to installing the tank.
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Outstanding progress Bo!
RAGIII
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These updates are really interesting and will prove invauable, so thanks Bo. It seems almost trite to say that I love the way in which you photograph and present the work; very classy.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Hi Bo
Incredible work and perfectly explained and illustrated. Your courageous deviations from the instructions seem very worthwhile but I fear, if I follow them when I get around to this wonderful aircraft/model, that I'll totally screw cutting it up! I hope that Aviattic have a few spare fuselages to distribute to those that try your course and...well, need one...Anyway my fears are months if not years away and it may seem less fearsome when I get there.
I look forward to your progress with ongoing interest.
Best regards,
Alistair
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many of the parts for the next steps are on this casting block, which proved a bit of a challenge to get parts off without marring the others, as they all rather diabolically overlap. But taking it slowiy...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9260_zpsehhzbzcg.jpg)
The complex aileron control horns are made from the PE parts seen here:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9263_zpsurionqfj.jpg)
And will be mounted to this cross piece, which first needs some small holes drilled to accept pins:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9265_zpsiniovsxz.jpg)
these parts form the interior structure:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9272_zpsqlsjgxlf.jpg)
But before I can go any further, I need to wood grain the cabinetry.... base coat...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9266_zpsqugxpux9.jpg)
oil coat started...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9281_zpsoq2pg0p2.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9277_zpsms4wwpdx.jpg)
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8) 8) 8)
Terri
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Looks great! I always wonder if there would be a better solution than that huge chunk of resin under those parts? I realize it may be the caster's answer to a sprue, but that is an awful lot to have to cut away. Maybe the parts count makes gang molding of individual parts too cumbersome. No disrespect to the manufacturer intended at all, this model is something that I believe, none of us have ever seen before. The bar has definitely been raised.
Steve
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Looks great! I always wonder if there would be a better solution than that huge chunk of resin under those parts?
One the positive side, the parts are exquisitely cast on this block (i) as they are on others. Much thought appears to have been given into ensuring that cutting / sanding occurs where it will show the least. But it is a challenge finding a way to cut the parts off without affecting the neighbors. (It can be done though!)
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Beautiful woodwork Bo. Really like how you handled the fuselage, I would not have the guts to do that. :D
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Continuing to be n education as always Bo. As for the moldings on the block I remember when resin parts were cast on a very thin almost break away bedding. really easy to separate the parts but huge cast seems and sloppy detail. I think I like the more modern way better 8)
RAGIII
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Blazing a trail as ever Bo - those resin parts look very small but very well cast. Ireally like your wood painting - very realistic. Did you use oils?
Stephen.
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Cheers guys! :)
Stephen -- yep, the grain is oils. Will probably add a filter layer of acrylic over it it pull it together a bit...
Tonight's mini-project was assembling the fairly complex aileron control rocker, which is mostly comprised of PE. First task was chasing the tiny holes in the triangular members, which, though etched from both sides, don't go all the way thru (at least not on my example):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9283_zpszqndwfer.jpg)
Next I blackened the parts and cut them out:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9285_zps8zhydvxa.jpg)
I forgot to take pix mid assembly, but the central portion is held together with brass pins -- those on the ends made with .3mm brass wire, the lower, central one from .5mm brass rod.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9288_zpsajrhykdl.jpg)
and here is the whole thing, (temporarily) mounted to the crosspiece (the whole thing is upside-down in this photo) :
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9289_zpshp5pvb70.jpg)
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Amazingly fine detail, Bo. Where do you get those huge novelty match sticks? ;)
Cheers,
Gary
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Hi Bo
Thanks for another update.
I'd be interested in your blackening technique. I've down it a lot on ship models. I acid etch, then wash in water, then soak in Birchwood Casey Brass Black and then wash again in water. But getting it to hold on PE almost always defeated me - it would just rub off - whereas I had very good results with solid brass - cannon barrels, pins, bolts etc.
Best regards,
Alistair
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I'd be interested in your blackening technique.
Hi Alistair -- I'm not sure what I do qualifies as much of a technique, but it seems to work to a certain extent. I simply soak the parts in lacquer thinner for a good little while to degrease them, let them dry, and then stick'em for 5 minutes in BlackenIt which I assume is more or less the same stuff you are using. I wash the parts in cold water and Dawn(tm) dish soap and let them dry overnight. The stuff does rub off a little when you handle the parts-- they are nice pure black when they come out of the soup-- but I figure it's a good base for a minimal amount of finishing paint. My goal is to coat the inside edges etc without gumming the whole thing up with paint, and to that end, at least, it seems to work pretty welll...
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Assembling the control column (and rudder bar)
Next pile of parts. 0.8mm x 22mm brass rod is suggested replacement for kit resin part -- but -- there really isn't any strain on this part when installed, so it's up to the modeler...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9296_zps4ggf79gd.jpg)
Rudder bar needs .3mm holes for eyelets:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9293_zpsmq4lw8fd.jpg)
later, these PE parts #63 will be the straps, but I won't fit these until after I paint the bar.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9292_zpsqufjv3ga.jpg)
The (very!) small end fitting for the .8mm bar needs to be drilled to accept it. This is a tricky step.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9300_zpsplog2gpo.jpg)
Ron suggests either simply gluing the main axle together, or cutting off the cast nuts and using .5mm resin bolt as an axle. I went a third route and carefully drilled through the center of the nuts so I can pin it with .3mm wire:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9302_zpsbwgzvqeb.jpg)
Same basic idea for upper bar (small fitting, shown earlier, now CA'ed to end of rod):
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9303_zps6oq1imn2.jpg)
Basic components laid out:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9309_zpsqblpjy1p.jpg)
... and dry assembled:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9307_zpsy58ahnwt.jpg)
before it can be finally assembled, though, the "knuckle guard" and triggers must be added to the column. Here are the PE parts. 92 is the knuckle guard, 93 & 95 are the triggers, which you might wish to save yourself some trouble with and just directly snip them off and drop them on the floor :) :
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9291_zpsdxxn3ueh.jpg)
Here it is assembled. Lower knuckle guard end fits in slot cut into control column. Upper just glues to the top. I bent it to shape (after annealing) using a simple jig made from two drill bits inserted into holes 3.5mm apart. I made the triggers from flotsam, having 'pulted part 95 into oblivion and not even wanting bother with 93...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9321_zpsmrpqtjb9.jpg)
The next step is rather tough to describe, and actually not that tough to do once you understand what needs to be done. Unfortunately my photo is not very enlightening, but the control horn rocker assembly built in the last post has a stub sticking out the top of it. You need to cut a slot in the lower bar (the fatter resin piece) in order to accept that tab. To measure the position of the slot, you need to dry fit the control rocker thingy, as well as the floor and the lower control arm:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9311_zpsw7hfhx0s.jpg)
The assembled column looks like this. Note slot in lower bar, as mentioned above:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9322_zpsap8rnta7.jpg)
Here's how the whole thing, including rudder bar, fits into the floor. At first it seems nearly impossible to get the fat bar through the rather delicate strap without breaking something, but it can be done -- repeatedly.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9323_zpsvrdiwrhj.jpg)
Finally, this is a good time to fit the magneto. The kit curiously supplies both Taurus and Ron K mastered versions (same is true for the starter switches). Good news for the spares box -- everyone here know the Taurus items are exquisite, and the ones Ron mastered are lovely as well. Here are the Ron K parts, which is what I've decided to use for this project:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9315_zps3togroso.jpg)
Now despite there being 2 sets included, the exact mounting of the starter magneto seems to be a bit .... notional. In fact it's not mentioned of the draft instructions I'm working off of at all. After some discussion with a couple of other early birds, I decided to fabricate a shelf out of styrene, which at least seems to jibe with the photos as to where the mag is located:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9317_zpse1mmlqey.jpg)
I also drilled a little hole, barely visible in these photos above the starting mag location where the main, fairly prominent wiring harness is located. Best to not do as I did, and tend to this before gluing the front frame in. Made for gymnastics...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9319_zpsdtiklal7.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/Ansaldo%20Balilla/IMG_9318_zpszliyyvoc.jpg)
That's it for now...!
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So cool! Love it!
Steve
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Bo, here is my ultimate compliment to you - you have achieved what no one has achieved before. Looking at the details of this kit and this excellent step-by-step build log, I am feeling tempted to build something bigger than my usual scale.
Great job all around, mate!
Cheers
Ondra
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I am feeling tempted to build something bigger than my usual scale.
1/100th? ;)
cheers :)
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This is out of this modelling world Bo. I was relieved to read that you too can send things into oblivion - I am not alone on that score!! Just an incredible build log and well past my pay grade!
Stephen.
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I was relieved to read that you too can send things into oblivion - I am not alone on that score!!
Oh yes, I am truly an oaf -- just perhaps a fairly patient one! :)
cheers :)
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very impressing progress on the interior. This kit really seems to be a jewel and you make the best out of it!
Borsos
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You have top notch abilities in both the engineering and artistic sides of this hobby. Excellent work, and inspiring too.
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Bo I can only dedicate this whole fabulous album (IMHO) to you its name is PRAZISION ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhkgRw2p7bA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhkgRw2p7bA)
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Excellent modelling all around
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This one is back on the bench after a bit of a hiatus... updates soon.
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good to see you posting bo, i have been doing other projects myself lately, namely building a guitar and vacuum tube amplifier from scratch. i kinda got stagnated with modeling several months ago.
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Great to see you are back on this one Bo! All is beautifully done as usual!
RAGIII
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Glad to see you getting back to this one Bo. Looking forward to your masterful work. ;D
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Glad to see this baby back on the bench, Bo! Can't wait to see what's next.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hi Bo
Looking forward to your updates. I now have my Ansaldo in the cupboard and when I finally get going (it'll be a while) I'm certain to be going back through this log to search through the gold standard for its construction.
Cheers,
Alistair
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Just more good stuff !!!
Ed